Car will not start

You have spark, fuel pressure, and it's cranking? That's odd... sensor failure or lockup will either shut down the fuel pump or the ignition system, so that's pretty much eliminated... Is it throwing any codes? I mean spark+fuel=bang... You said you have spark and fuel pressure, and EMS I believe handles the ignition, so chances are if you're getting spark you're getting signal to the injectors? It was running when it died, you would have noticed a mechanical failure, and I beleive the ecotec has a compression sensor that is used in place of a cam sensor, so a compression failure will shut down the ignition module... I'm stumped... it just isn't adding up...

its not throwing any codes because the car sat for 2 months before I started working on it.

I'd recommend taking it to a shop to be diagnosed then. I'm guessing the injectors aren't firing, but it's hard to guess as to why.

I sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it would not start with that either so I dont think it is an injector problem. I think it might be a timing issue. Does that make sense to you?

Not really if the timing was off there would be no spark. That year used a compression sensor instead of a cam sensor so you only get spark with compression. If the cams are out of alignment it doesn't build compression and the ignition won't fire, this takes the place of a traditional cam sensor. If you're getting spark that makes no sense. Like I said, something doesn't add up.

you need 5 things for a car to run fuel, spark, air, compression and timing, if the timing belt/chain jumped one tooth ur sensors could still be picking up a signal and telling it to spark but if the timing is off its not getting the compression, does it sound likes its cranking too easy? thats what i would check for and see if its the timing

wow you have spark and fuel pressure and a new crank sensor... hmmm no engine codes? either your injectors and not firing or the cam sensor is not working or computer problem.

Yeah...check compresson, but would not just die, unless it had major engine failure all at once....would would be extremely rare. How are you checking for spark? By pulling the plug and grounding it? Just because a plug has spark outside the engine does not always mean it has a good enough spark when installed. Are you checking all four plugs for spark? if your spraying either into it and it doesn;t even try, then I would not go after injectors. I would say cam sensor, or basic ignition problems...ie...wires plugs, coils take your coils up to NAPA or Advance and have them checked, along with ignition module start checking parts one by one if you cant figure it out...free to test parts

didnt break a timing chain did you? think you would of known that

for testing the coils and ignition module you can do that from home with a multimeter i for get the readiing now but i'm sure you can find them... test the primary and secondary sides of the coil test them both they should be the same, for the ignition module take the coils off and while cranking the engine see if the coils and getting there signal with a test light.

My car just had a new fuel pump in and run for a day now it wont start back

Look at the oil pressure sending unit it also controls fuel pump,if it fails to signal computer the oil pressure is there when cranking,the injectors and or pump will not fire/run.

Did you guys ever figure out what was going on. My wife's 2004 cavalier just turns over and will not start up. I have fuel pressure. I have replaced the Fuel pump, Fuel filter, crankshaft sensor, coil packs, ecm and still nothing. I am stumped.

I also have a 2003 cavalier that has fuel pressure, spark, compression and wont start. I had the car checked to make sure it wasn't a security issue and that is fine. When the car stopped running I drove into work and parked, when I went to go out for lunch it acted like it had a dead battery so put a new one in and just turns over. I have also sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body and it acts like it wants to start at wide open throttle but dies as soon as you let off the key...... any help would be appreciated. o and the car has now been sitting at the mechanics shop for three weeks and they have no more clue than I do.

Also need engine to exhaust in order to run. Check that cat isn't clogged up

Suck,squeeze,bang ,blow

Do you ever figure out what it is? I have a 2004 plain Jane Cavalier. 2.2, new plugs, me wires, new coil, new module, new crankshaft position sensor, new fuel filter, new fuel pump a month ago. It turns over, It sparks, I sprayed starting fuel in the throttle. But won't start. Basically all the same stuff you said.

Broken timming chain. Will still have spark. Coil controlled electronically not mechanically. Open valve cover and crank over. If valves don't move, then it's chain

I never thought it was the chiain, because it was not broken. There is a tensioner that uses oil pressure to hold tension on the chain. It must have jumped gears and messed the timing up. The values were opening when it turned over, so i did not think it was the timing chain. I did a compression test and found it had like 20-40 psi on the cylinders. So I replaced the chain and tensioner, and set the engine back to TDC. It got 180-200psi on the compression test and runs like a champ. it had over 230K on the engine at the time and now has 260K

I never had a Timing chain jump teeth like that before. So that was what baffeled me. I couldn't find any spec on the compression and I wasn't sure if the EcoTec was just low compression or what, because all were within 20% psi of each other. After replacing the Timing chain I can tell you it will definitely have 180-200psi and that is normal for the compression on that engine. It actually run better now, so I can only assume that it had jumped a couple times and finally the last jump kept the engine from starting. Also because the timing was off I must have been burning oil, because I would have to put half a quart in a month and now I don't have to. FYI Sure hope that helps

mcsdguy79 it definitely sounds like my same issue. I too use quite a bit oil despite no visible leaks. I've called around as I really don't want to do the work myself and the cheapest comes out about a grand. After the other $400 in parts that turned out not to be the problem I'm not sure the cars worth the cost. Despite it having been an extremely reliable and good car for the last ten years I've owned it

Yeah. 1K is definitely alot and depending on the miles and the shape may not be worth it for you. I had to try, because we didn't have the money for another car for my wife. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, I would give it a shot. It really wasn't too bad, I did it myself. I would recommend getting a Hanes Manual for the car if you do decide to do it yourself. I don't remember everything as I did the project about a year ago. If you look down the side of the engine on the passenger side, where the serpentine belt is, the Timing Chain is on that side. Any thing that would keep you from removing that value cover, has to come off. There was a passenger side motor mount had to come off and You just keep a jack under to keep the engine up on that side. The coolant tank comes off. The passenger wheel and the plastic wheel shield comes off to allow access to the timing cover. You do have to set the engine to TOP-Dead-Center to make sure the timing belt is installed properly. Again it wasn't the hard. There was alot of jumping around the manual to do the steps. It would have been alot easier had there been more room on the side between the engine and engine bay. I remember having to jack the engine up, with the engine mount removed to take out a bolt for the alternator of smug pump, I don't remember which and then bring it back down to finish working on it. I want to say it took like 8 or 10 hours total. I just pulled it in the garage and worked on it over 2 or 3 days. Good Luck.

I just Checked Napa and the Full Timing Chain Kit is $156 It has the 2 gears, Chain, guides, and tensioner. That is what I had got and replaced.

mcsdguy79 I probably will in the end, all in all in the long run it will be cheaper than buying yet another car. It's about 120,000 miles and I know the car can got quite longer.

Entire timing sets for this car are like $30 shipped on ebay and come with all the guides and such.

2005 cavalier has fire and timing is correct,fuel pressure,but injectors won't spray

Replace the fuel pressure regulator. I got two 04's and on my black one I could smell gas and the car still ran. On my orange one it wouldn't start. Upon taking the air duct off to spray starting fluid I found it full of gas. Yeah fun. Trust me try replacing the fpr, couldn't hurt.

I agree with you on that. I had starting issues a few years ago to so I replace the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter, it started right up after that.

I have an 04 it cranks but won't start.its not getting any fire I put a new crankshaft position sensor on it an still no fire an it's no getting good gas pressure so any help would be appreciated

Hi I got a 1997 Chevy Cavalier with the 2.2 L overhead valve I'm getting spark but no feel not getting any from the fuel pump the fuel pump is not turning on the guy had to make another key he had the car lot Guy come out and make a key for the ignition will that affect the car not starting but also when I bought the car from the guy he said that he drove it it was running fine when he went to go park it it died he put a new battery in it and it just cranks over it's got fire I could spray starter fluid in throttle body and he'll run as I keep spraying fluid in there so it's not getting gas in the car is quiet when it runs so it's got good compression can you guys help me out tell me what it could be remember I'm not getting no power to the fuel pump and I just replaced it and remember the key was made for this car it's not the original and I am a mechanic but I am not electrical inclined.

Long story short, sons car had spark and fuel but no start, Snap-On scanner identified injectors off in antitheft protection. Reset by trying to start release key but leave in on position, wait 10 minutes. Turn key off and then try start again leaving key in on position, wait 10 minutes turn to off position and retry start release, wait 10 minutes. Scanner stated 3 times where according to specs but some Tecs had reported that 6 times were required. Mine started on the 5th try. Hope this helps some people, had not read this anywhere.

Hey everyone! I realize this is an old post, but I have some more info. 1. If the fuel filter is not changed every 30,000 miles, the fuel pump goes. Mine was definetly bad. 2. After that it would start sometimes, but not every time. I brought it to Chevy, and they found a faulty computer. Makes sense, didn't allow everything to work together for a proper start, and didn't show anything on our code reader. Parts and labor was $671 (ouch) best of luck!

This could be a faulty ground wire of you've tried everything, perhaps this should be tried.. just another option on a low budget

I agree,it could b a ground wire,but unlikely,I just had a 2001 Nissan Xterra 3.3 6 cylinder,now I know it’s not a cavalier or have a 2.2, but I am a mechanic and this Xterra was literally driving down the road and just lost all power at 70 mph and would not start,was backfiring and drained the battery,so anyway gets pulled to the house,sits there,could not figure out what was wrong,so we bought another 1,but 4wd and after 5 months and me changing both valve cover gaskets,knew thermostat,new radiator,water pump,because it kept running hot,well my pop drove it and it broke down on the side of the road and finally got it bak to the house the next day,so what I found out with the black Xterra,the first 1,the rotor screw somehow backed it’s self out and was sitting on the distributor,screwed it in ran great for a while,then my pop says the knew distributor I just bought 4 months ago was bad and he got a new 1,now he didn’t mark the marks where u out the new distributor in and called me and ask if I would come out the new 1 in and that before he left for work,he would make the marks for it to b right! Now I. Worked on this truck for like 2-3 weeks,was getting,fuel,spark,compression all of the above and I have already put close to $2000 worth of parts I bought and put on and it would turnover,but no start and it turned out to b the distributor was a half circle wrong,way out of time and now it runs great!

Hey guys I have a 1996 suburban I’ve had car about a month I’ve put new fuel pump fuel filter camshaft sensor crank sensor map sensor new ignition coil and also a sensor by the ignition coil I replaced ,a throttle position sensor fuel pressure regulator spider injectors Spark plugs wire rotor and cap and it’ll crank but not start if I pour gas in throttle it’ll crank right up and die afterwards any help or tips or information y’all can help me with please I’m past puzzled I’m ready to give up on this car

If it starts with fuel sprayed or poured in then as you already know it is a fuel delivery issue. Did verify that your getting the proper voltage to the pump? Secondly you can have the correct voltage and still a new pump will not operate if #1 there is an issue with the ground circuit of the pump which in your case is a black wire going to the frame in the area of the filler neck. #2 High resistance on the power wire . Another thing you can check is the rubber hose on the pump it could be sucking air, probably not a high probability of that just something to consider.