TRAC OFF and VSC TRAC system

I usually put car in neutral , turn car off, then restart. This will reset the light.

When both lights came on I put in park, turn car off then I cranked car back up, so far has disappeared. I also it the button that says VSC trac/Trac off, it go off at that time, but put in park, turned off and waited for couple of minutes, turn car back on & disappeared.

what does the manufacture say about this problem? Is it a design problem, can it be disconnected? Its a real pain in the ass, with bandage solutions. I had the same problems with a Lexus, they kept their heads in the sand with know solutions only to resolve the problem on the next year model...

I have a Toyota Sequoia with the same problem. I tried one of the suggestions, I put it in neutral, turned the car off, waited a few minutes then cranked the car with it still in neutral and it worked. thank you drpage57

I tried it also nothing work what Should I do now

You have a defective yaw sensor I believe. Get an icarsoft or other diagnostic scanner specifically for a Toyota will show you the code in the ABS category As I recalll and it will point to this sensor located under the console. Get a used one off eBay and forget about a new one. Easy fix. Plug and play. Good luck.

It just happened to me in my 2006 Toyota Sequoia v8 4.7 2wd. One morning, the Check Engine light come on, also the "RSA" and Track Off" and they didn't go away. I check the code and a P1010 was there, a MASF sensor. I clean it and the lights, including RSA and Track Of went off. I guess it is a problem that because of the Mass Air Flow Sensor ir dirty, the engine has lower revolutions in idle and the charge system lowers performance and affects some indicators. I'm guessing here, but definitively, cleaning the MAFS solved my issue.

Something else is the problem but the check engine light may not have come on yet. Your vehicle will disable the traction control as a safety feature. For me, I needed a new o2 sensor.

O2 sensor? Which one? Theres 4 sensors, that’s coincidental. Im pretty sure it didnt fix the problem

"Most Toyota owners will find that when the Check Engine and VSC lights are lit, there is a problem with an O2 Sensor or gas cap. Try tightening or replacing the gas cap for a hopefully cheap fix." - Direct from Toyota website

Hi all, This may defy logic, but it might be a bug / Easter egg gift for the dealers IMO like the obligatory check engine light that comes on automatically at certain ODO triggers... For me It first started to appear around 119k mi maybe? and came back every time the weather was warm. I assumed the heat added ambient stress in these systems and was confusing the above mentioned sensors / arrays... and in cooler seasons allowed normal operation. I assumed the heat was interfering with aged parts etc, but then.... since around 121k mi it hasn't returned and I'm sure the heat is worse this summer than last. My only guess is that the computer(s) that manage this system may start to adapt or re-establish good communications after say, a standard break service, or continued breaking in or passing of interfering pollutants in one of these systems, etc etc I dunno... Anyway.... I suggest continuing the above low tec solutions already discussed, (I tried them all and they mostly work somewhat), and then wait and see a few thousand miles at the most. you might save or offset thousands in repairs etc....

I over heated mine and the VCS alarm came in. I left the oil cap off.

Chiming in again, Im at around 130k and still no errors. I'm two inspection in as well. see my previous post for more.

i just passed 249,000 miles on 06 sequoia. The 3 lights: vsc off, vsc trac. and engine just came on this morning. this is 1st time ever. i tried the useless gas gap renedy & putting in neutral then restarting. to no avail, still have problem. anyone with direct info to take car of this disturbing issue. O2 sensors, scanning tool. what do i need to do to to immediatelt fix.

@GuruPR4PB ... I haven't done it myself, but after a lot of research it seems to be something called "yaw sensor." https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=y66H4Z0S-Kg&t=9s ... If this works for you, please let me know. Thank you.

Luis A. That was a very helpful link. It's a new one to me, and it seems appropriate and related as a cause. These two might be tried first before going there with the Yaw replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GZS_Nqub1U&list=PLljOx390vfNZubgWofzSt- FA0OoeMRqvG&index=70 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p02wLEYlD38&list=PLljOx390vfNZubgWofzSt- FA0OoeMRqvG&index=70&t=0s

Another related to the last post: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=- tym1FxB4ro&list=PLljOx390vfNZubgWofzSt-FA0OoeMRqvG&index=71

The lights came back! This time with a check engine light instead of an E break light. I'm looking into this new issue now. Great! (not) It's still around 130k too.

Turns out to be a separate yet related issue... One or both of The "Air fuel ratio sensors" (basically another bank of O2 sensors inside the engine) have gone bad and since the engine is very much electronically controlled, it's creating a cascading array of system errors. The only way to fix it is to remove the top end of the engine and do someother misc part replacements at the same time (suggested service). I've never had a TOYOTA this unreliable. I'm not sure if I'm gonna do it or scrap / sell it. I love the overall Truck, but a 4Runner / Land Cruiser it is not.

Major update!!!! ...and some restored faith in this slightly cryptic Toyota: Folks, sometimes it can be a simple short. I found a great mechanic who was telling me the opposite of what all the other trusted mechanics around my way, and similar comments above noted etc. I'm sure there can be mechanical causes, sensor failures, vacuum leaks etc, but he suspected an electronic short 'confusing the computer' and triggering a cascade of errors down the line. He used a lap top to do some crazy electronic coms via the obd port and wayyyyyy above my pay grade. After making my truck do all kinds of werid clicks and whirrs and bla bla, he discoverd it was a harness connecting the two front O2 sensors. That was it. A simple short. For me this also explains how the issue was random at first, then intermittent and had seemed to mysteriously self correct for about 4000 miles I'm guessing till the short went full FUBAR. The short was related to a wiring harness that connects the O2 sensors right behind the front manifolds. I figure it was slight wear at first, then it finally gave way on a strong bump or something when all the lights popped on again. Happy ending! (So far)

Where do u live at. I need a good mechanic to fix my sequoia

@ HugeGrand. So how did you fix the issue then. What did the guy do. Can you try to find out exactly what he did? Thanks

I HAVE THE TWO LIGHTS ON VSC OFF AND VSC TRAC, MY 2001 TOYOTA SEQUOIA RUNS AND WORKS JUST FINE BUT I LIKE TO TAKE THIS LIGHTS OFF MY VEHICLE, DOES ANY ONE CAN RECOMMEND A GOOD MECHANIC TO DO SO. I HAVE CHANGE THE YAW SENSOR BUT DID NOT WORK. PLEASE HELP!!!!

2002 Sequoia here - I believe I've fixed the VSC/Trac light issue with no outside help and you can too (maybe). My Sequoia recently started intermittently giving me the VSC/Trac lights (no check engine, just VSC/Trac). Turning the car off, the lights would go away but would eventually return, maybe a drive or two. Anyway, I scanned with Toyota TechStream software (that's the dealer diagnostic software) and got a code C1363 (Booster Petal Force Circuit Fault). I saw a post online where a Toyota tech said that C1363 meant I needed a new brake booster. Before buying a new BB, I decided to check the two electrical connections to the BB. I unplugged the electrical connector to the master cylinder and the one to the brake booster. I sprayed some compressed air (from a spray can you can buy at Stapes) into both sides of the connection and then reconnected them, pressing them in place with some force. Drove the Sequoia, no codes. Scanned after 100 miles, no more C1363 code. I think the electrical connections are just old and the connections just needed some cleaning and to be pressed back in place. Hope this helps and you guys have the same result.

Well I have an 02 Sequoia 4x4 with about 185k. I have been battling this issue since I had some suspension work done. Check engine, vacuum and trac lights on. Go figure. This is what has been done to no avail. The yaw sensor x2, 3 wheel speed sensors, fix the jury rigged front upper strut mounts, another new gas cap, new fluid and blend brakes and the 4th wheel sensor. No joy with any of them. The gas cap thing got me thinking though. I was told also at one point I needed to replace my charcoal canister. Subsequent to that I found a badly cracked vacuum hose in the engine bay on the drivers side. That was the day before the OD went cabluey and trashed the rest of the trans. I guess I should include a newly rebuilt trans in the above list. Well today I got the car back with trans fixed. They cleared the check engine lite but the trac and vacuum lights are still on. Tomorrow first I am going to try a procedure I saw fir turning off the trac and vacuum lights. Turn car to accessory then off then start car. Immediately. If that works I’m going to put some miles on it. If that doesn’t work then I am going to check ALL vacuum lines and replace anything that is suspect. Will then clear any codes again and see what happens. If no joy there then I will replace the charcoal canister and see what happens. If that doesn’t work then sell as is. I guess. Any other suggestions would be great.

I don't think the charcoal canister is going to be your VSC/Trac light problem. I suppose it could give you a CEL, but it sounds like you've already sorted that problem. One option, you could grab a copy of TechStream off ebay for $40. That software allows you to scan for codes that don't show up on a regular Autozone scanner. Otherwise, test your brake booster (there are videos online on how to do so). If it passes, try what I suggested in the previous post. It seems to have worked for me after being plagued by intermittent VSC/Trac for several months.

jmorris023 The reason I thought the charcoal canister might be be the problem as well as the cracked vacuum lines that go to it is because some people have reported that the gas cap not being tight has been the problem. In my head that is because the system is not sealed and since the cracked lines and the charcoal canister are part of that system they may cause the same problem. However I'm all for not spending money I don't need to, the trans was a tough pill to swallow, I will get the tech stream off eBay before I will do the canister. Thanks for the input. I appreciate it and will keep this thread updated. One other thing I am going to try is a reset of the yaw sensor. I can totally see the shop that installed it not reading the instructions and installing it without calibrating it. Jonathan

Yep, that could be it. TechStream has a yaw rate sensor zero point calibration function, so you don't have to do the budget "paper-clip" method. I tried it on my Sequoia. My YS calibration reading was zero already, so it didn't seem to have an effect on my problem. Maybe that will get you there if they didn't calibrate it last time out tho. Just FYI, the cheap TS versions ($40) work well but they are pirated. I threw the TS program on an old laptop I don't use anymore except for TS and I keep that laptop off the internet in case there's malware (I haven't seen an evidence tho). Good luck.

After paying $139 for a diagnosis at a Toyota dealer and being told the driver side catalytic converter (yes, there is another one on the passenger side) and pipe needs replacing for $2,200.00, I went to the parts dept and purchased a gas cap. Problem solved! I tried all the other suggestions here - none worked other than the gas cap replacement.

I have an 01 sequoia with 260k and thank to theives had to replace the driver side catalytic converter. While in the shop I had some suspension work done and not the VSC TRAC light is always on and when I accelerate the wheel slipping light blinks on the dash. This is all new and the shop is saying it's the age of the vehicle which is complete bs. They said it's probably the clockspring & the a steering sensor which the 2 parts would he about 1 thousand dollars. Has anyone had this same problem or heard of the clock spring being the issue? I have ordered new speed sensors for the front end but I don't want to drive and have the brakes lock up like in some of the videos circulating online

You can disable the VSC by disconnecting the connector at the master cylinder...