My car won't start when I turn my key

Have you put a new starter relay in it?

It is called the ign relay in fuse box under hood,

I should have tried that 1st probably would of save me some money if that's the problem. Would that be the reason i hear a clicking noise in my fusebox when I try to start it??

Yes,from what you have changed out,i would think that is your issue.

I'll go grab a few 1st thing in the morning, I say a few because I switched it with the one right next to it their identical but no luck maybe their both bad. If that's the problem cool!! If it isn't still thanks for the help. I'll share the info soon as I replace them

Did u ever figure out what it was my car is doing same thing??

Dealing with same issue have replaced the starter the fuzes the egnition switch aswell i did the theft lock keycode aswell still nothing. Only time it started was when i manually got the egnition switch to bypass

What is the deal.. I am having the same problems as the one above. Did everything he did and still nothing. I am stuck at my house and my wife could have a baby anytime. any advice?

I'm having the same problem with my 01 Chevy impala. Changed the ignition and the tumbler. Still nothing. It starts but won't crank or stay cranked. Any suggestion

im having the same problem, my boyfriend got some dry gas it started the next day nothing again i guess these cars just suck

It sounds like you guys are having a bad neutral safety switch try changing it

I have a 2010 Chevy impala Ltz I done got starter and ignition switch also and it’s just clicking & check my battery and wires an everything good.But what’s the problem I need help wat else click sound coming buy fuses boxes

I have the same problem ^

I have similar intermittent problem with 2004 Impala. It appears is an issue with security system. To get car to start I leave key in on position for 11 minutes. Security system resets and car starts every time.

I have same problems. Keep tapping the gas it should start

pass lock sensor in the key tumbler. 150 bucks at advanced auto if the car is under 2006 year without a magnetic key

I have a 2004 Impala and every time I turn the ignition it wont start up and I just want to put a new starter in it and it still doing the same thing I think I need an alternator

If my batterie is bad would cause a short whe I try connecting my batterie on the terminals?

I have 04 Impala and about every 2 weeks I have had the same problem. After over 100 attempts it has started each time. What could it be?

Took my 2001 Chev Impala to Tires Plus Richfield, MN. Explained that when I turned the key to start, there would be nothing. Lights came on, “Security” symbol showed on dash. This happened randomly...a day later or several hours later, it would work. I was always afraid to turn off when I went somewhere and eventually that happened in parking lot at store. Tow d to Tires Plus (closest to where I was). They said they checked ignition, battery, starter, alternator and charged me $130 diagnostic. Explained it was relay ($42) plus labor and total with diagnostic wad <$250. Took home, parked it for a week (went out of town). Would not turn on or make a noise (exact same thing as before) TP tried to say it was battery so I tried to jump it to no avail! Towed it back and 2 days later they said I needed a new ignition switch to the amount of over $300. Maddening that they will not take responsibility. No more taking my cars to TIRES PLUS.

We also had a bad alternator but when we changed the ignition cylinder (bought online for $40) we had to hold the battery cables together (away from the battery) for 20 seconds then hook them up and do the key learning thing (turn the key on for 10 minutes then off then try to start , repeat 3 times) then it started but since we had a bad alternator we had to replace the alternator next. Now it is starting on the first try.

I, had an extra ignition key made, and leave it in the ignition. Door lock locks 3 doors and regular ign. key locks drivers door. Cost 2 dollars.

Had the same problem this morning figured dead battery, trickle charge battery for 3 hours still nothing, thought I would try ignition relay removed it put it back in again nothing then decided to do crank relay, wiggled it car started right up. Going to the store and buy a new crank relay fuse just so I have it with me.

Chevy have a recall on the ignition Call delearship

I was told its a section tank. If we are havinh the same issues. I simply wait 12 minutes DO NOT OPEN ANY FOOR OTHER THAN THE DRIVER DOOR WHILE U WAIT 12 MINUTES.... Should start right up if not.... U may have other issues.

I was changing my dash molding and I accidentally started my car when the key chain turned clockwise and I started my car on accident, in gear. Broke the plastic ignition sequencer (round thing ACC, OFF, etc.?) upon removal (and "I" broke it) when I pulled the entire old dash molding and replaced it, I thought no big deal, but after replacing the molding my car would not start. The 10-15 minute thing security thing "reset" worked everything good. Thanks for everything thought it was a fuse type thing.

Did Anyone Figure Out the Issue with this ? My impala 2013 Is Doing the same thing I Checked Ignition Switch . Ground wire On the block Nothing At all Cant get it Started

Is it s fuse, starter, or ignition recall? Somebody, please???? I need "THE ANSWER". I'm a single mother and multiple people have told me multiple things. I've paid a lot of money to fix alternators, batteries, etc. It does the same thing. If anyone could pin point the issue, it would save me so much trouble!!?? Please, SOMEBODY has to have OR had figured this out, by now....??????

So did anybody get the answer

My car want start I made it to work at 4and when I got off at 10 it want start but the dashboard lights come on but when I turn the key they cut off then comeback on

Have same problem. Turn key, clicks once. Battery is at 68% (says my charger). Charge to 86%, starts and runs good all day. Go out hours later, click. Alternator, battery or?

I have the same problem with my 08 Impala at first it wouldnt start and you would hear a clicking nosie coming from under the hood then i changed the starter rely and the starter and its no change everytime i turn to turn it over to start the lights on the dashboard go on and off but i took my battery to AutoZone and they say my battery is perfect .. i really need help can someone assist me to the problem please

2003 Impala. Won't crank, battery good. Will jump starter tomorrow.

I have same problem with 2011 Impala car is at a great shop. He finally got it started today and said something about fuse box cause engine is great lol.. I will post update soon as I hear update.. I do know I'm selling it after this!

Figured it was easiest to start with replacing battery. What a PITA changing this one out. SO FAR, it is starting ok. SO FAR. We'll see what happens, but still interested in Latiesha's answer, could be a stuck/shorted/open relay in there somewhere as a phantom load draining the battery.

Just got my 2011 Impala back from Inland Auto Tech in Riverside, CA. Car runs great replaced whole fuse box under my hood starts with no problems aftet wasting money on parts i didn't need. Cost 200 and was due to electric shortage. I hope this helps cause I experienced everything I just read above.

Change the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft sensor and you should be good to go . The camshaft is connected to the coil module you might have to go to the wrecking yard to find it or special order from the dealorship. If you don't replace them you will be stuck.

Try using your spare key if it's the type with a chip/magnetic. The ignition sys may not be reading the one not working. So far,it's worked on my daughter's car. If you don't have a spare,you'll have to buy it and have it programmed at the dealer. Not sure if locksmiths have the capability to program it.

Guys If you are Having the Issue Where You Try to start You 06-13 impala , And When you turn the keys it does not Crank no lights on dash board . All power gone Its your Computer Took mine to the dealer 800 Dollars later Works perfect .“””” Computer issue “””

Ian - dealership told me same thing but My lights on dash came on and my radio which said theft locked my horn wouldnt blow, my doors wouldnt unlock and it couldn't be taken outta park just made a clicking like noise under the hood. At first itd start after the 10 minute leaving in on position then off (well as far back as itd go because it wouldnt turn all way back stopped at accessories until itd unlock) wait 5 seconds itd start. Been 3 days though since itd start so had tow to dealership where said was my computer.

2000 Impala, same problems for years. Every few months it won't start. Years ago, I used to FREAK OUT, out of town twice. But the car ALWAYS starts after a while, less than 30 minutes. I now know that after a while the car will start, so I am not worried, just frustrated. Some guy above said 12 minutes. Today it happened again It was less than 15 minutes.

Ian the new computer solves the issue?

***LENGTHY POST BUT PLEASE READ*** I’m having the same issue(s) as everyone else here, with my ‘00 base 3.8l but I wanted to elaborate a bit more in depth to see if we could maybe dig up a little more info for the sake of anyone that hasn’t resolved their problem yet and before I decide to make a decision on which part(s) I want to replace this weekend - which will be either the ignition switch AND lock cylinder (both for the elimination of further mental exhaustion and hassle at this point) or the BCM (Body Control Module). When the issue started (about two weeks ago) it wasn’t nearly as frequent as it is to this day, which has to be about 90% of the time I attempt to start the car. Especially if the car hasn’t been started for a while - overnight or during a work shift. Initially, I assumed either the battery or the alternator was going bad because of (A) there were no obvious indicators pointing directly outside of those two options, (B) both are nearly three years old from DOP and (C) both happen to be the best Duralast has to offer so I figured, “hell, if they are bad, they’re still under full warranty, no loss there.” I went to AutoZone to have them tested and oddly to me the battery resulted at 100%; again it is a Duralast Gold, which the brand itself, ‘Duralast GOLD’, has proven to me pretty reliable through many years. So as one should and as I planned anyway, I then prompted them to test the alternator. However, the results of it’s test were bad which I half expected anyway because the first time the problem occurred, the tail lights and blinker lights would stay illuminated and wouldn’t turn off even with the headlamp switch, suggesting to me I’m having charging issues. I replaced the alternator and for the rest of that day everything seemed worry free. The next morning, no crank action but this time I’m hearing the clicking from the starter solenoid. So at this point now I’m thinking, “damn, the starter too” but I noticed something different this time; my dash and interior lights stayed illuminated BUT turned off using the headlamp switch - the tail lights and blinkers however stayed illuminated as they did before the alternator replacement and again wouldn’t turn off using the headlamp switch. So I waited a bit, five to ten minutes or so and decide to try it again. A few turns of the ignition and she turned over. Now at this point I’m all confused but haven’t ruled out the starter quite yet and figured I’d bust out the ole Haynes Repair Manual and my BlueDriver OBDII Reader before I actually replace the starter. From the codes thrown and from reading the repair manual, plus with the car being twenty years old and me having had it for eight and no known replacement of the starter prior to my possession; the POSSIBILITY of it being the starter didn’t seem nonlogical to me. Keeping in mind I’m now hearing the solenoid in my attempts. I figured it wouldn’t necessarily be bad money spent if I went ahead and replaced it - so I did this past Saturday. The same as when I replaced the alternator, for the remainder of that day it was peachy. The next morning, sure enough, the issue has gone nowhere but this time yet another factor (if you will) is playing a part. It’ll now crank really slow and with a couple to a few attempts WITH and only with pressing the gas pedal repeatedly, she fires up. so I’m thinking fuel issues now but would fuel issues cause these electrical problems? No. Not only that but the codes thrown from the OBDII were all body codes (i.e. B0000) and of either low or high circuits - which overall lead me to online articles and forums and UYT - The Univeristy of YouTube, as I call it. From all of the online reading I’ve done pertaining to this, referring to the troubleshooting section in the repair manual and in-and-out of the relevant chapters; the number of forums searched through and videos watched - the Ignition Switch AND/OR cylinder lock OR the BCM seems to HAVE to be the issue. The reason I’m puzzled as to which I’d like to roll the dice on replacing first, is because not only have I read of people replacing the BCM and yielding no positive results, which is pointing me towards the switch and cylinder PLUS two of the codes thrown were for the ignition and keyless entry; BUT all of the other B codes in mind that the scanner gave with low and high circuits (side note, not all codes have persisted through the duration of this issue and repairs), along with having replaced the alternator and starter with a 100% tested battery (cables are good too) and funky stuff happening - I’m thinking, would a bad switch and/or cylinder really cause all of this? Having said that, though I’d like to replace the switch and cylinder I’m leaning more towards the BCM. I shop on www.rockauto.com when I can, every time, if I can wait a few days and even with that price cut versus paying what one would at a local parts store, I’m looking at approximately $130 for either the BCM or the switch and cylinder. I called a Chevrolet Dealer and a diagnostics is $89.95 but I don’t want to pay for the diagnostics when I truly feel I’ve narrowed it down to an ’either-or’ scenario. I figured I could try the BCM and if it isn’t the BCM I could send it back, get the switch and cylinder and go from there. I’m on day two of disconnecting the ground from the battery while it sits overnight and while I’m at work and although it isn’t a permanent fix of course, it seems to be a lot less of a hassle to start the car this way. I hope this was helpful in some way to at least one person!

Is there any device that can be taken off a Chevrolet Impala 2004 and will make it not start?

Did Anyone find out the answer

No. I have almost all the same problems and I don't have a key with the widget but I did notice one thing that proceeded all of this. About 4 years ago I started to notice that half the time when I got in the car and turned it on ( When it was working) there were no LED's on the radio. No matter what I did to the light switch (Which you turn) then 2 minutes later I look down and they are all on. I have replaced a lot of stuf and until the short is resolved your throwing away money. I am going to see if I can trace it using that info and yours and call the dealer tomorrow, I already had that warrenty thing and all they did was take of the engine cover which left it open and looked like crap so I made them put it back on but we now know it wasn't that so I will see what else thye tried,

Thank you guys I am going to show your schmatics to someone that it might mean something to, If you need a symphony written I can do that but not this,

2005 Chevy impala turn the key sometimes it start right up other times about 15 min delay with key in ignition.reset alarm and solved the problem.

It really does seem to be a lot of the same issue. Got into my car one night and drove the hour home that it takes me and my security light was on the entire way home. The next day nothing. Car started just fine and dandy. Went to store a few days later and coming home as soon as I gave it the gas all of my gauges bounced all over and my batt light and break fluid light, and other lights that have never came on flashed. Car died and I had to coast it to a stop. Put it into park and checked my belt to make sure it did not break or something under the hood. Then it started up just fine with no issues at all. About a week later filled the gas tank and took my car thru a car wash and about ten minutes later did the same thing. But, this time while I was coasting I put it into netural and it just cranked but no start. After I found a place to park it would do any cranking at all. Had plenty of power though. Got it towed home and a few days later did the manual reporgram of the key. Did just great for a little while. But, I did notice that when you started the car there was like a one to two second delay when you held it in the start possition. Then a max of five seconds the next time you started it. But, the next time after that it started just fine with no issue. But, the delay would come back each time and then reset. Driving into town it finally did it again about a week and a half later. Same thing when it died the other two times. Sat there and did the reprogram of the key and that did not work this time. Replaced the key and iginition switch and nothing still. So, now I am about ready to just destroy this damn car. Anyone at all have any kind of suggestions at all?

I am having similar issue. No clear fix yet. I had the ignition switch replaced. That didn't fix it. My mechanic wasn't confident it would , but that was his best guess. He hates guessing. What all mechanics have told me is that it can't be diagnosed unless it is not starting. In most of our scenarios it will eventually start, frustrating catch 22. I will keep posting if I discover anything.