I have a 2001 dodge 5.9 4x4
Hello all just ask the same question
over again but here we go. I have a
2001 1500 5.9 4x4. The truck starts
runs but will not engage into any
gear. The transmission was just
rebuilt and worked for 2 weeks. I was
driving home and I stopped at a
merge and then when I let my foot
off the break the truck wouldn't
move. It just reved up. I got it towed
home. The next morning I checked
the transmission fluid while the truck
was running and the fluid was like it
was oil,by that I mean is it was only at
the bottom of the stick. It wasn't
smeared up the stick it was only
reading to the cold mark while
running. I know the pan has to com
off and the transmission will
inevitably will have to come out but
does anyone have any ideas of what
had happened? Any help is
appreciated.
hi it sounds like you either broke something internally...or the pump is bad not creating line pressure..... before you take down the pan you may want to hook a gauge up and check line pressure... this will tell you if the pump is good ....or if you have something going on with the valve body or if broke an output shaft ....you said that the unit was just rebuilt it should have some warranty on it if a trany shop or dealership did the work
Thanks for the information.as for a warranty that is another story. So I will stick to the subject. I also was thinking that the pump was kaputs but, I was reading that the tyranny filter has a seal that sometimes may not be pressed in correctly and has caused the same symptoms. What do you think?
ok your trany is a 44RE or a 46RE depending on if its a heavy duty or not ...the seal your thinking about is on a 45RFE trany which is the full electronic trany....
Ok thanks that rules out the easy fix. Thanks...... I think.
if you were driving and one second it was ok and then the next nothing then some thing broke ....do you feel it going into gear??
from park to drive or from park to reverse ?? the only thing that comes to mind is the torque converter broke and is not spinning the input shaft
Really that's what I was thinking. The torque converter. I may as well start looking for a replacement tyranny and rebuild the one i have again myself.
And no nothing in any gear. In 4 wheel drive it was jumps but still nothing.
As for moving one minute and nothing the next was the weird thing. There was no noise when I let off the break and stepped on the gas.
just for the hell of it I would still look at line pressure its possible that something in the valve body came loose or was not tight and finally fell out thats why no noise or bang ...start with that and then drop the pan and inspect the valve body for being loose or possible the governor pressure solenoid came out ...it sounds like it will be something simple...was the fluid burnt?? (black) or nice and red ...the ATF+4 smells burnt brand new so unless the smell knocks you over then it might not be bad
The fluid was still red and no burned smell either. I will check the pressure. I hope it is something simple.
Will one way or another tomorrow I will get at it. At least now I have some ideas of where to start
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TEST Hydraulic test pressures range from a low of one psi (6.895 kPa) governor pressure, to 300 psi (2068 kPa) at the rear servo pressure port in reverse. An accurate tachometer and pressure test gauges are required. Test Gauge C-3292 has a 100 psi range and is used at the accumulator, governor, and front servo ports. Test Gauge C-3293-SP has a 300 psi range and is used at the rear servo and overdrive ports where pressures exceed 100 psi. Pressure Test Port Locations Test ports are located at both sides of the transmission case (Pressure Test Port Locations). Line pressure is checked at the accumulator port on the right side of the case. The front servo pressure port is at the right side of the case just behind the filler tube opening. The rear servo and governor pressure ports are at the right rear of the transmission case. The overdrive clutch pressure port is at the left rear of the case. Test One - Transmission In Manual Low NOTE: This test checks pump output, pressure regulation, and condition of the rear clutch and servo circuit. Both test gauges are required for this test. Connect tachometer to engine. Position tachometer so it can be observed from driver seat if helper will be operating engine. Raise vehicle on hoist that will allow rear wheels to rotate freely. Connect 100 psi Gauge C-3292 to accumulator port. Then connect 300 psi Gauge C-3293-SP to rear servo port. Disconnect throttle and gearshift cables from levers on transmission valve body manual shaft. Have helper start and run engine at 1000 rpm. Move transmission shift lever fully forward into 1 range. Gradually move transmission throttle lever from full forward to full rearward position and note pressures on both gauges: Line pressure at accumulator port should be 54-60 psi (372-414 kPa) with throttle lever forward and gradually increase to 90-96 psi (621-662 kPa) as throttle lever is moved rearward. Rear servo pressure should be same as line pressure within 3 psi (20.68 kPa). Test Two - Transmission In 2 Range NOTE: This test checks pump output, line pressure and pressure regulation. Use 100 psi Test Gauge C-3292 for this test. Leave vehicle in place on hoist and leave Test Gauge C-3292 connected to accumulator port. Have helper start and run engine at 1000 rpm. Move transmission shift lever one detent rearward from full forward position. This is 2 range. Move transmission throttle lever from full forward to full rearward position and read pressure on gauge. Line pressure should be 54-60 psi (372-414 kPa) with throttle lever forward and gradually increase to 90-96 psi (621-662 kPa) as lever is moved rearward. Test Three - Transmission In D Range Third Gear NOTE: This test checks pressure regulation and condition of the clutch circuits. Both test gauges are required for this test. Turn OD switch off. Leave vehicle on hoist and leave Gauge C-3292 in place at accumulator port. Move Gauge C-3293-SP over to front servo port for this test. Have helper start and run engine at 1600 rpm for this test. Move transmission shift lever two detents rearward from full forward position. This is D range. Read pressures on both gauges as transmission throttle lever is gradually moved from full forward to full rearward position: Line pressure at accumulator in D range third gear, should be 54-60 psi (372-414 kPa) with throttle lever forward and increase as lever is moved rearward. Front servo pressure in D range third gear, should be within 3 psi (21 kPa) of line pressure up to kickdown point. Test Four - Transmission In Reverse NOTE: This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and the front clutch and rear servo circuits. Use 300 psi Test Gauge C-3293- SP for this test. Leave vehicle on hoist and leave gauge C-3292 in place at accumulator port. Move 300 psi Gauge C-3293-SP back to rear servo port. Have helper start and run engine at 1600 rpm for test. Move transmission shift lever four detents rearward from full forward position. This is Reverse range. Move transmission throttle lever fully forward then fully rearward and note reading at Gauge C-3293-SP. Pressure should be 145 - 175 psi (1000-1207 kPa) with throttle lever forward and increase to 230 - 280 psi (1586-1931 kPa) as lever is gradually moved rearward. Test Five - Governor Pressure NOTE: This test checks governor operation by measuring governor pressure response to changes in vehicle speed. It is usually not necessary to check governor operation unless shift speeds are incorrect or if the transmission will not downshift. The test should be performed on the road or on a hoist that will allow the rear wheels to rotate freely. Move 100 psi Test Gauge C-3292 to governor pressure port. Move transmission shift lever two detents rearward from full forward position. This is D range. Have helper start and run engine at curb idle speed. Then firmly apply service brakes so wheels will not rotate. Note governor pressure: Governor pressure should be no more than 20.6 kPa (3 psi) at curb idle speed and wheels not rotating. If pressure exceeds 20.6 kPa (3 psi), a fault exists in governor pressure control system. Release brakes, slowly increase engine speed, and observe speedometer and pressure test gauge (do not exceed 30 mph on speedometer). Governor pressure should increase in proportion to vehicle speed. Or approximately 6.89 kPa (1 psi) for every 1 mph. Governor pressure rise should be smooth and drop back to no more than 20.6 kPa (3 psi), after engine returns to curb idle and brakes are applied to prevent wheels from rotating. Compare results of pressure test with analysis chart. Test Six - Transmission In Overdrive Fourth Gear NOTE: This test checks line pressure at the overdrive clutch in fourth gear range. Use 300 psi Test Gauge C-3293-SP for this test. The test should be performed on the road or on a chassis dyno. Remove tachometer; it is not needed for this test. Move 300 psi Gauge to overdrive clutch pressure test port. Then remove other gauge and reinstall test port plug. Lower vehicle. Turn OD switch on. Secure test gauge so it can be viewed from drivers seat. Start engine and shift into D range. Increase vehicle speed gradually until 3-4 shift occurs and note gauge pressure. Pressure should be 469-496 kPa (68-72 psi) with closed throttle and increase to 620-827 kPa (90-120 psi) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Note that pressure can increase to around 896 kPa (130 psi) at full throttle. Return to shop or move vehicle off chassis dyno. PRESSURE TEST ANALYSIS CHART TEST CONDITION INDICATION Line pressure OK during any one test Pump and regulator valve OK Line pressure OK in R but low in D, 2, 1 Leakage in rear clutch area (seal rings, clutch seals) Pressure low in D Fourth Gear Range Overdrive clutch piston seal, or check ball problem Pressure OK in 1, 2 but low in D3 and R Leakage in front clutch area Pressure OK in 2 but low in R and 1 Leakage in rear servo Front servo pressure in 2 Leakage in servo; broken servo ring or cracked servo piston Pressure low in all positions Clogged filter, stuck regulator valve, worn or faulty pump, low oil level Governor pressure too high at idle speed Governor pressure solenoid valve system fault. Refer to diagnostic book. Governor pressure low at all mph figures Faulty governor pressure solenoid, transmission control module, or governor pressure sensor Lubrication pressure low at all throttle positions Clogged fluid cooler or lines, seal rings leaking, worn pump bushings, pump, clutch retainer, or clogged filter. Line pressure high Output shaft plugged, sticky regulator valve Line pressure low Sticky regulator valve, clogged filter, worn pump
port locations
1 - REAR SERVO TEST PORT 2 - GOVERNOR TEST PORT 3 - ACCUMULATOR TEST PORT 4 - FRONT SERVO TEST PORT 5 - OVERDRIVE CLUTCH TEST PORT
there you go you may need two gauges...if you have access to a scan tool you will be able to see line pressure on it as well
Wow now I have somewhere to start . Thanks for taking the time to pass on your knowledge. I will start there and let you know how I make out.
Tore it apart and the torque converter is pooched. The inside of the converter is broke in 4. Now the fun begins.
Can the converter be repaired
I see you can see that its broken?....is there any damage to the input shaft and the stator hub .....they rebuild torque converters and would just take yours as a core any trany shop will sell you a reman torque converter or you can get one from the dealership with a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty
I wonder can the converter be repared.
The shaft is good, no dings or marks.
Hi...just curious if the tc was the actual issue? My 2000 46re has no Drive nor reverse. I was cruising down the highway then all of a sudden it lost all power to the trans. Like it switched into neutral. I coasted to the shoulder of the road. Got it towed home after I could find anything visually wrong. It doesnt whine and it doesnt even respond in the slightest of ways when I have it the truck running. All gear selections including reverse have no whining nor engaging of gears. So far this post is the only one that seems to have the same issues as mine. So any updates on ur trans issue?
TC is shot. For anyone doing a 46re 2wd with OD, this is my 10th rebuild. To begin, towing, performance or hot rodding, install a 165-185* low temp thermostat. Get a oil cooler and mount on the driver side. Remove check valve. Clean out all coolers and lines. Then......install 4.56 rear gears and you’ll never have to think about a transmission. If you refuse, drive like grandma. Or do a complete rebuild. Starting with the engine. 560hp-588lbs tq. In a small block! Block bored +.04. Line bored with studs. Use Molnar forged crank,Rods and forged pistons +20cc. Use a stud girdle. Hv oil pump. Build or buy a sump pan. BUY A CUSTOM GRIND HYD ROLLER CAMSHAFT/ Comp cams and Don’t go less than 114 LSA or you’ll be doing a brake mod too. Go tall and long 580 lift is great. Buy the best dbl Roller cam chain and gears and Don’t use a tensioner with a roller chain. Ok for stock. Stock timing set up with EFI. Go to BnG or Mopar Mad for new ECU tune, remove TQ management. Use Edel 61779 heads. Find a M1 4barrel intake. EFI or have bungs drilled. Worth every penny. Get a new TB bored out after market. Call, FL Torque Converter to get a custom 650 hp, 2000 rpm stall TQ. Buy new clutches and steels, a new Valve body kit / Superior. (Not sonnex!) new Sonnex Pressure valve. Drill 2sizes up on the OD piston housing(your intermediate shaft will thank you) and rebuild using the Best Bushings available. Watch the Transmission Bench on YouTube. Become an expert on the 46re and go slow. Lots of rags and a cleaning tub. Put together and install a new set of 4.56 gears and make sure it’s a LS type. For 10grand, you’ll have a house pulling machine
46res are a simple and hardy transmission. The TC will go, the reverse will go. The OD and solenoids will go. It’s will last if it’s cool. It’s a great oem trans. The clutch packs will burn up when it’s Hot. The TC will go if you pull a load, with no gear or high rev to get to engage, limp mode in no OD and solenoids with give codes. The Reverse Wavy ring will go and no reverse. Use ATF+4. Check fil in N. 99% of the issues are from the TC. $500 on new rear 4.56 gears will change the load on the transmission. They are simple to fix and cheap to maintain. Don’t overthink it or you’ll spend thousands to get right. Every time you access the Valve body, it’s 8 qts of ATF+4 at $6 per qt. All the test ports and readings are great if you’re hot rodding or doing mods for pulling. If you just want a long lasting truck, cool it down and lessen the stress. These trucks are heavy.
And a No engage is a TC. If you tach it to 3000 and then it engages, it’s a TC. Absolutely no engage is TC. Reverse only is a TC. No rev, but fwd, is a wavy snap ring in OD section. Codes, limp mode, and wierd shifts in OD is a Sol. As long as you didn’t move the shift cable, it’s a Sol. If you messed with the cable, put it back to the right distance. Reverse band will loosen and if there’s engagement but slips, adjust. If shifting 1-2-3 is not working properly adjust front band (I like 2.5 turns) and check cable too. Slipping will start about 150,000 on a easy driven truck. 100- 120k on a towing truck. $350 will get you a great rebuild kit. Watch Transmission Bench and DIY.
Lastly, 46 Series do not normally have Pump issues. They have TC issues, caused by stress and heat. You know when you’ve killed a trans. It’s HOT, leaking and won’t go into OD.
I've got a 46 that I just swapped out and it was good for about three days and then I came home and went to back my little tool trailer into the yard and it wouldn't go into reverse so I checked the fluid it was a little low and I had. Trans line little loose and I tightened it and added fluid to it but no change . I drove it around the block and unhooked my trailer and attempted to go get some fluid and filter to change it and it quit shifting into 3rd and 4th I changed the fluid and filter and adjusted front and back bands still no change could this be the torque converter as well
I have a 1997 ram 1500 4x4 won't move at all but motor takes a load when put in gear what all TC fit my truck? Going to pull trans tomorrow
I repaired the gearbox of my car I changed the disks changes but does not move, neither back nor front
I repaired the gearbox of my car I changed the disks changes but does not move, neither back nor front Dodge Durango 5.9 v8 1999
