A/C blowing not cold air.

Clean your ducts

Cuz there could be dust or just clutter in general on there

If clicking on and off that is a sign that it is low on refrigerant ( freon ). Should stay running all the time not clicking on and off.

It's blowing plenty of air, just not cold.

Like I said should not be clicking on and off.

Can't tell freon because low side pressure is maxed when compressor clicks on for about 20 seconds.

Firebird, you're thinking of a thermal xpnsn valve...that kinda a/c system doesn't cycle. Whenever an orifice tube is used, then absolutely, the compressor should cycle on n off. It "cycles" on n off because if it didn't, the system would blow out. The hi-pressure switch cuts it out as a safety. The low side should be round 40-50psi when the a/c is on n the hi side should be round 200-250 psi. This is based on a temp somewhere between 80-90 fahrenheit of course. That said, if it cycles too fast, then it can effect cooling. Try inspecting n cleaning ALL of your electrical plugs that are on your a/c system. Hi n lo pressure switches and most importantly, the a/c clutch power cable. If this doesn't change the qwik cycle, then check your wiring or just connect your compressor to a 12 volt source just long enough to see if the qwik cycling stops n the a/c starts cooling.

BTW, if the hi side pressure is 500 psi low (at a given temp), then either you're low on r134 or your compressor is going out.

LOW side is maxed out at 500. don't know what high side is.

500 what? psi, kpa...that's waaaay too high either way. R u using a decent set of gauges or just what came with the can? 500 would explain the rapid cycling. There might be a clog in the system somewhere. If this is happening, then the compressor is coming apart or a leak sealer was once added.

2003, air has never been touch before. Cycling off and on seems normal compared to my other vehicles. On for about 20 or so seconds, then off for about 15 or so seconds. 500 psi and the gauge shows correct on my other vehicles. I still think it is plugged up somewhere, just wondering which part to try first. Dryer, accumulator............ I think compressor is fine.

Be careful with the parts cannon. It can run into serious money, really fast. I've never seen an a/c gauge that reads to 500 anything, unless maybe an old ammonia gauge or something?!? Can you take a pic n send it here, maybe can do some good then? You might also try swapping your a/c clutch relay with another one of the same part number at the power distribution box under the hood. Those relay contacts get hi resistance before they burn totally out. This could possibly cause the a/c clutch to rapid cycle if not enough power is getting to the clutch. Also, clean the relay connector whilst it's outta the socket n check both for green or white "fuzzies". This signifies corrosion.

A qwik lesson in the a/c cycle. The low pressure switch (not the hi/it's a safety only/bad info earlier) dictates cycling of the compressor. The ECM is constantly giving a ground to the a/c clutch relay that gets it's ground info in series thru both the lo n hi pressure switches on the high n lo pressure a/c lines...IF YOU SELECT A/C OPERATIONS. If you loose one of the switches/connectors/wires/ground, the ECM/clutch relay will shut off power to the a/c clutch. You need around 25-30 psi with the system in the off position for the lo pressure switch to close (located on the accumulator on most Dodge pickups, I believe). If the lo pressure switch has enough r134 present to close, then on to the hi pressure switch. The hi pressure switch starts out closed n stays there till round 450 psi or so, then it'll open. It's a safety. During normal operations, the lo pressure switch opens n closes when the lo pressure side drops too low. It keeps the evap coil from freezing over. Line pressure drops too low n the lo pressure switch opens n the a/c cycles off until the system idle pressure returns to the lo pressure switch n it starts all over again). With a thermal expansion valve, the valve restricts freon flow hydraulically/automatically during low pressure/low freon requirements to the evap coil, with an orifice tube the flow is constant...AND THAT...is why a healthy orifice tube a/c system cycles....just not TOO fast. Check those grounds, low n hi pressure switches n freon levels with a different gauge.

Thanks for all of the help. It turns out that the compressor is BAD.

compresser clutch doesnt click when ac is turned on