My car won't start when it's cold in the morning.

common issue with these cars is the fuel line does not have a check valve in it and it allows the line to depressurize when it sits. installing a check valve close to the fuel pump will alleviate the problem, as well as just turning the ignition to the on position for 30-45 seconds before starting.

Hey I have the same problem did you ever solved the problem??

Have your fuel pressure checked at the rail.This is a sign of a bad fuel pump.The fuel pressure regulator is in the the pump assembly.The fuel pump is in tank,but they can test the pressure at the rail using an adapter.Also,while they are at it,have them do a compression check on all 4 cylinders.Having trouble starting cold can be a sign of low compression.

The FPR is on the rail on these cars, but the pumps are quite garbage from the factory. There was a recall that is supposed to fix this issue, but it doesn't. A simple check valve, or an aftermarket fuel pump such as a walboro will fix it though.

The FPR is built into the pump in the b15's QR25 fuel system.In order to install a walbro pump you have to cut up the stock drop in canister,which most people don't want to bother with.There isn't even a traditional pressure check valve on the rail,you have to use an adapter on the line itself.

hey try changing your coolant temperature sensor it worked on mine

I had the same problem man, i have a 2002 Altima. Nissan put a recall out to reprogram the ECU, once they did that it took care of it.

Check it out. Ive been looking for the answer for sometime now. Its not the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Its simply the timing chain.because it has a hydrolic tensioner and you don't change the oil defiler it tends to stretch until the tensioner cant go no more. I just got mine changed and not it starts like a charm. I was so surprised but it worked. So save your money and go straight to the timing chain. P.s.it is a pain Ianthe but to change. There are no gaskets except the valve cover the rest is silicone.. Hope this helps

this happened to be as well two days ago i have a 2010 sentra sr and if i dont move my car for a day it wont start. I tried pressing the gas before starting and nothing just cranks but doesnt start. Battery and fuel pump are good its only happens when i dont move it for a day or two please help!!

Same deal, 2006 Sentra. If the temperature dips below freezing, I have to plug it in, even if it's only 1 or 2 degrees below freezing. If it's really cold out, forget it. I can plug it in all night and it still won't start. The engine turns over, it even fires, but it doesn't catch. It's really frustrating. Generally, I let the fuel pump engage before I start the car. Turn it to "on" (second click) and let it sit for a few seconds before turning it to ignition. That helps when it's warm.

I am having problems with an 2002 nissan sentra se r spec v. It's been fine untill about a week a go that I had not moved it and when I came to move it acts like its going to cut off. As I drive it it slowly picks up speed and then it starts to jerk and shake and acts like its going to cut off. Then it looses power it doesn't want to go try puting it in gear and press the gas and it moves really slow. Please help!!!!!!!

My 2007 Nissan Sentra 2.0L SL has COLD start problem that started about 6-10 months ago. I just found all these web hits today with same problem all over the place, and I am pissed at Nissan!! For a while I play this game where I turn key "on" for 3 seconds, then off for 10, repeat 3 total times. Used to work each time, but then failed. Once I can finally get it started I have to let it warm up to "operating temperature", then turn car off for 1 minute, then everytime I start after that it starts with absolutely no problem, unless I go for longer then like 4-6 hours (operating temp drops). Evententually service light on. Codes say it's the camshaft sensor (like everyone else getting). Had cam sensor changed once at local shop, ran good for 1 day; then at Nissan (cha-ching $$, they also changed some other sensor) ran good for about a month. Because I sometimes had oil changed at local shop and do not have records to prove all oil changes, NISSAN has the audacity (now that I see so many have this problem) to blame sludge on my problem. I am DONE with Nissan. I have them since 2002, but no more after my Sentra is gone. A friend local shop just did a variety of work on it last few days (have to get list of items). I will ask if he did timeing chain, as "2006nissanSentra18" did. Nissan did say something like "sludge can cause timing chain to stretch, yadda yadda". They just hungry for more money. They said "replace car now before bigger issues", again wanting more money. My Sentra has NO PROBLEMS aside from the morning/cold start. Has 94000 miles, is 7 years old. Sludge problem, REALLY??? My local mech found no sludge bottom or top ends. Thank you for letting me vent here. I'll update when I have new news. ~~ ßßithead

Mines doing the same thing. Didnt start until we had sub zero temps. Maby the cold affected how the chain stretched upon fire up? Either way it kicked out a cam sensor code although i must say i replaced it less than a year ago before it happened again. Anyhow i replaced it and it wouldnt even try to fire. swapped out for another new one that did let it fire up. but since then it will not start. So i decided today to unplug the cam sensor and try to fire it up. it worked. i plugged it back in and it stayed running. shut it off and tried again with it plugged in and it fired up again.

cpk sensor!!!

hey can someone help me I have a 2007 Nissan sentra and I was driving it earlier in the day and I turned it off and went inside for a few hours and next thing I know I was going to go pick someone up when I turned on my car It felt weird the steering wheel was hard to use to turn all the dash board lights were on a blue ps sign came up and I was able to put in reverse and back out put it seemed like the power steering went out but as I was driving I guess it died on me and now it wont move im able to start it I think but it wont move when I put it in drive I press on the gas pedal but nothing happens

I have 03 Mazda 6 that won't start when it's cold but starts right up when it's warm I just got the starter fixed and it was running fine now it doesn't want to start ??????

a have nissan sentra 03 gxe 1.8 i have problems with a/c the cold 10 minit and star warm please help me

I also have the Nissan x trail qr25. It can't start it is only cranking but signs of starting is there but it is not

I have Nissan Tida, and it does not start up in one click< the second click it wants to start in a vibrate way< but by the third one it starts and has no problem, while two days ago it was start at once. plz help

05 nissan sentra 1.8S. where to begin? symptoms; hard or no start in cold weather, engine shutoff while driving (no dash indication) prior to events - starts after several minutes to hrs later usually with a jump start, no start after sitting for several hours to days, service eng soon light comes on but records no fault (repeatedly), service eng light comes on and shows different code each time or erroneous codes. Theres a couple more i most likely forgot but do any of these items sound familiar? Finally got a hard latched fault of camshaft sensor. Replaced it and the fault cleared for a week. Spoke with and paid for online expert to tell me to replace the crankshaft sensor (same part number as the camshaft sensor). Replaced and ran fine for a day. Checked fuel pressure and sending unit found good. Indication became sporadic but starting was still a roll of the dice. Code popped up saying misfire but did not identify which plug/coil. Light went away. Change all plugs anyway. Good for several months. Back to the light again this time low fuel pressure. Changed fuel sending unit. Good for a month now the light is back on and still not "latching" a fault and car won't start, it does crank and is getting fuel and ignition, when it rains or is damp outside, occasionally lol. So here is what I started with; eng light on-won't start or shutsoff without warning-no "latched fault" code. Here's where i'm at; eng light on-won't start or shutsoff without warning-no "latched fault" code. Parts replaced; fuel sending unit (fuel pump assy), all spark plugs and coils, cam and crankshaft sensors (23731-6N21A $80 each). O2 sensor was cleaned and reinstalled but thats next on the list. One tech even said the sensors I replaced were aftermarket and I need to use OEM parts only, that's the number I posted above. Oh he works at Nissan dealership.

I had the same problem. I was gone for two weeks and upon return I could not start the car. Read this forum. Cleaned the plugs which wasnt the problem as the car would still not start. Disconnected the intake and exhaust sensor wires...cranked it over and it would not start. Put the wires back on and it started. I guess I need new sensors?

Same her 97 Cavalier 22,000 miles won't start in the cold they have the car learn the key and then it start for so many times but the it won't start again and this only happens in the cold and no one can seem to figure it out.

Battery, bad maintenance, etc. caused confusion because of short or other missing component. Computer saw the damage shut the car down but in doing so lost a key. Had to be towed to dealership. Cost less than$150, computer was protecting car from electrical damage that would have cost a lot more

c25 serena haerd start in morning help

My car(1990 Toyota Camry 150k miles) has been fine until past month..all sudden while in line at a fast food place it started sputtering so I pulled around and went in to get food,come out and car wouldn't start at all...tried several times...Nothing!! Turned my AC off and tried...it crunk??? What's up with that?? Since then it randomly won't start(esp if vents are on) .I turn key over like 3 times b4 it starts but now in the am it's like 40-45° out,and my car wont start at all but I went and tried later(70°) and it started...what's going on???

More Cowbell! My 2009 Sentra had a misfire code and would not start in cold weather. I checked a bunch of stuff over the course of a week and then I wheeled out a jump starter to spare the battery and the car fired right up. The battery had tested normal but the jumper set had way more juice. I then upgraded the battery from 500 cranking amps to 640 cranking amps and the next morning it fired right up and the misfire code cleared out. More Cowbell!

Same... what is the fix...for the Nissan...

Sometimes has no spark when cold, then chugs enough to run. Seems to settle out after a minute or so.... tried everything but the right thing. What is it?

CPU- GOING THRU THIS NOW. Jedi mechanic told me to heat up cpu in a.m. when its cold with a hair dryer. And it starts when i do this ...pain in the butt but better than walking. Heat up the big silver square by air box. Good luck hope this helps. Nissan should be responsible for this but wont do anything about it! ✌

OMG, GuruB3456! You saved me. I did the hair dryer thing, and it worked. Paid a lot of money for service maintenance; they cleaned the fuel line, replaced spark plugs and I don't know what else, but after 1 month the car didn't start again (when it's really cold). I have a Nissan Sentra 2012.

2007 been to two mechanics, no solution. Runs like a champ when its warm out, won't start at all when its cold. Checked everything. Now they wanna charge me $2,200 to do the timing chain and no guarantee. I said no thanks, will wait til spring. This sucks

It’s not the timing chain or sludge or fuel pump. I guarantee. For whatever reason if you take the battery out and soak it in a sink half full of very hot water for a couple hours it will start... or jump it with a running vehicle if it’s not tooo cold.. some people say heating the ecu also works... for some reason as this and several other Nissan models get near freezing (some even start messing up around 40 F) the voltage is plentiful but something is not allowing the coils to fire. It’s not any sensor as I have replaced them all and I have even replaced the entire engine after doing timing chain and every sensor on the previous engine. Still the same issue with all new engine and parts. I’ve sent the ecu to be diagnosed and reprogrammed and was told nothing is wrong with it. Upgraded to higher cca twice on my battery but no matter the cca, once it gets cold the battery is just not enough to make some connection on its own (will work at first for a while). It’s not in a plug or wiring. Literally all you have to do is warm up the battery and it works. Also if you crank the engine until the battery dies then wait a second and hit it again it will start. This can damage the battery tho so don’t do it often. I’ve tested, replaced, and cleaned every ground connection, sensor, and component in the ignition system. The only consistent fix is to warm the battery. I started taking my battery inside on cold nights and putting it back in when I leave. Not an ideal fix at all, but I am a very competent mechanic and I know all the tricks and have access to every database used by dealerships for repair and there is not a known real fix. In my personal opinion, I believe that there must be some sort of problem with the firmware of the ecu and how it interacts with some sort of temperature gauge.. though I’m not sure how... the reason I deduce this conclusion is because at the point when the battery is too low to power the auxiliary functions... such as the temperature on the dash... all the sudden the car will muster all the voltage available and start. I am still diving into this mystery and I will get to the bottom of it eventually. When I do I will be sure to update everyone, as this is a widespread issue that is not being addressed by Nissan in the slightest. They just try to blame the consumer.

Been dealing with this for years now and only when it is cold. After reading another forum it was decided that the problem was the ECM. They recommended taking it off and sending to a company called SIA Electronics. You can also find them on ebay and they charge 90.00 to test and repair your ECM and then they ship back to you. Tech called me today from SIA told me what it was and they repaired it and now are shipping it back to me. The turn around is a couple weeks but still beats the price of a new one WAY MORE. Hoping it will be here at the end of the week and my mechanic can put back on and this be over.

Look. I sent my ecu to sia and they said nothing was wrong but performed a repair anyways and charged me money for it. Sent the ecu back and what do ya know my car still does the same thing. I’d love to hear that the tech just screwed me over so let me know if it actually starts right sub 32 degrees. I’m guessing problem will persist... if it doesn’t I need to know what they did to yours so that I can get a refund on service they provided or get them to actually fix it. Thanks.

My nissan Sentra 2009 cranks but will not start only when its COLD!!! I Live in NYC do it doesnt get Wisconsin cold or anything like that. Even at 40 F the car wont start. But anything 50 and above it will. I had my transmittion and started checked, their perfectly fine. I bought a brand new battery (duralast, 12V, 640amp) so its not that. I even just had aen entire fuel system cleaning from valvoline, brand new spark plus done over the summer and still everytime it gets cold outside, my car wont start!!! Its so aggivating and its hard for any mechanic to tell what the problem is especially when I get it jumped. Once its jumped (the car comes on right away once I jump it) and I take it to a mechanic, they check the usual ad if theres no issue with the trans, starter or spark plugs they shrug their shoulders and say "I dont know then". I considered the fuel pump as the issue as Ive seen many people say that maybe my fuel line is filling with water and freezing up, thats the only thing left for me to check.

Hey. The problem is in fact the ecu. I solved mine by insulating my ecu. Sounds strange but I was tired of shelling out money to replace this and that and being broke down every morning still. My original idea was to run a windshield defroster to a switch and mount it inside an insulated lunch box over my ecu. I then folded a metal plate and placed it over the whole thing... the idea was that if my car was below 37 (which is when mine starts acting up) and it wouldn’t start I’d just flip the switch and go inside for 10 minutes instead of standing out in the freezing cold with a hot air gun heating up my ecu (which works well). Well to my surprise I never had to flip the switch on! Since I put that contraption on my ecu my car has started perfectly even down to 29 degrees and covered in ice and snow! Take it for what it is but the lunch box was used and the piece of metal was in my garage already so this was a free fix to a rather lengthy and expensive problem.