Have a Jeep with 4.7. Water pump went out and got hot.

Well coolant has to fill the radiator and run through the entire system, and of course the dreaded bleeding to insure no air. I recommend opening up the heater core by placing the interior switch and maximum heat, and then, with the vehicle running burp the system at its maximum filler point, whether radiator neck or filler reservoir, then add 50/50 mix as you give CPR to that "Lower Rad Hose," (squeeze it methodically). Also have a helper gently rev the motor and confirm that heat is coming through the vents. If you have heat in the cab, that's a sign that the system has flow, and hopefully by then that lower hose is hot! But remember that NEW thermostats can be quite resistant until they finally open. It is true...they often have some sort of threshold which must be superseded before they open up consistently. Just work it for a few minutes and keep an eye on that temperature gauge. That should do it my friend. But let me know how it works out!

If lower part of your radiator is not hot could mean your radiator is plugged and not allowing antifreeze thru to be cooled. A heater core can be hot and a radiator not be working at same time. They are two seperate systems of the cooling system. Sometimes radiators are restricted, car overheats, blows gaskets on water pump, etc and than we blame water pump when it was the radiator.

Tried several methods that have been suggested but none that worked. When we replaced water pump, there was a so-called "expert" there to help by replacing the thermostat for us. Who knew that you could put the thermostat in backwards!!!!! R&R Thermostat and everything seems normal. No damage to engine. Appreciate the suggestions.

Replaced thermostat first continued to now changing water pump. Anyone have to change the stock yet for their turn signals won’t work properly at all

There is a second thermostat on lower hose next to water pump. Change it as well