How to install my amp?

Greetings, in as much the Riveria is 24 + years old, I would suggest you rely on a refutable company to install the equipment. I'm concerned with the idea of a layman hooking up new technology with equipment that's 24 years old. I've used Best Buy. And relative to the rear seat, the back doesn't come down. In order to remove the back portion , start by removing the lower part of the seat... Good Luck

Crutchfield!

Door speakers are 5 1/4" the tweeters are smaller maybe 1 1/2 or 2". Rear package shelf speakers are 6x9s. If you are going to use factory head unit, use either Line out converters to reduce the output level and for RCA inputs to the amp, or get a better quality amp that can accept the higher level inputs. The battery for the car is under the back seat and is a monster. If the car came with a CD changer it would be located near the antenna passenger side of the rear trunk. I mounted mine on a piece of plywood with some rubber insulation to the crossbar along the back of the seat near the passenger side as well so you dont have to run long power cables and can use either the common battery ground or the antenna ground both are close. Also, the green wire that powers the antenna, I spliced into for a remote turn on for the amp. If you run speaker wires they are along the drivers side floor running boards so don't run any power cables along that way - run them opposite side of the car. I ran a 4 channel amp and re-ran good audio cables to the front speakers as well as rear speakers. Also took the rear signal outputs from the head unit and split it to two amps: one 4 channel for all 4 speakers, and one for a 10inch enclosed sub with its own amp. I like the factory look of the head unit as long as the CD player works I dont mind burning old school mix CDs to play in it. I have an aftermarket unit that can just run RCAs to the amp. Its more wiring but I like the factory head unit that is responsive to steering wheel controls. Don't ruin the dash forcing an aftermarket unit in there, do it right and remove the knee bolster, then the underside of the dash pad, then the A pillar covers, then disconnect the headlight switch, the retaining bolt on drivers side and pry the instrument panel fascia off the guage cluster and HVAC unit all the way across it just pops off. I haven't ever removed the dash pad entirely, but have had to push it up enough so that I unscrewed it, you can take it off if you want to get a good eyeball on the instrument panel. Not a lot of room for LOCs behind the radio, I went underneath or you can to the floor in the very front of the console against the firewall. Crutchfield was useless, they said nothing fits for head units. I disagree, they just don't know that vehicle. Wiring wise, its up to whatever power you want to run. Just do the math. If you are going to have huge power drains, look up the "big 3" upgrades for running powerful audio - i.e. battery, greater than stock alternator output, etc. Do it right the first time instead of killing your battery and possibly alternator etc. Its a 24 year old car with brittle wiring... Have fun, I've had 4 of these beautiful cars so far, they are getting harder and harder to find anymore! Cheers!