1993 saturn sl2

My '95 SL1 once couldn't shift with the engine on. The problem was that I managed to shatter the clutch(I was teaching myself how to drive a stick without any help). To make it to the repair shop, I turned off the motor, put it in 1st, fired it back up, then when I reached the redline, I shifted without using the clutch (at the time I felt that the clutch was both slipping and not fully disengaging, preventing normal shifting and launching in a higher gear). After a couple shifts in this style, the remaining pieces seemed to align themself and I was able to shift normally for highway speeds, albeit with excessive slippage for a brand-new clutch. When I came in for a report from my mechanic a few days later, he already removed the clutch and I could see a pile of dust that fell down while clutch pieces were extracted. I want you to put your car in 1st, gently run the motor up to about 3,500 RPM, and without using the clutch, pull the car into neutral, get off the throttle, and gently pull into 2nd gear. If you put a little tension on the shifter while the revs drop, you should be able to feel it go into gear when the motor spins at the same speed as the tranny. This will take a little practice if you've never shifted this way before. Once you successfully are driving in 2nd gear, I want you to goose it. If the motor winds out WITHOUT accelerating the car, the clutch is quite likely damaged, either from incorrect technique, or a mistake during installation. Otherwise, tell me what happens instead.

my motor does not wind out i was feeling around in the engine bay on all off my tubes from the slave to the firewall and found a leak on the tube right next to the master. i have a new slave and master w/ tubes coming in the mail this week, now im wondering how hard is it to get air out of the lines if there is no bleeder valves. do i have to bench bleed the slave.

1.Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle. 2.Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly. 3.Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable. 4.Remove the battery hold-down retainer. 5.Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge. 6.Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well. 7.Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs. 8.If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines. 9.Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. 10.Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle. To install: 11.Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position. When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder. 12.If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). 13.Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). 14.Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing. 15.Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip. 16.Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 17.Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation. 18.Install the battery hold-down retainer. 19.Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable. 20.Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly. 21.Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system. 22.Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full. Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Michael has solved your problem. Now if you could just teach your car to keep all of it's parts from leaving you might one day have a fully functioning auto-mobile. I hope they are not alcoholic parts and spend most of the time sitting on a bar stool. My parts are bolted to the main structure of the car and they never leave, maybe try that.

Way to bring this back to life after 2 years.