Buying a high mileage used Outback.

This is high mile,s and has allready had head work done on it,proceed with caution,could be a money pitt.

Let's say this car was first sold in September 2006 and it's a 2007 model. Then consider that it's a car that was driven 18,000 miles per year for 11 years, then, , 200,000 miles would be high average mileage ... If it were serviced regularly and just had the work done in the last 50,000 miles, it might be worth considering? Remember, it's not so much mileage as it is time.....I would ask that you consider the price, service records and receipts, plus who is selling this car. I would consider the automatic over a manual.... but, you will have to evaluate this with the car you're looking at... In a used car, condition is everything... And, there are many high mileage Subaru cars on the road, just Google the Subaru high mileage club... Finally, a car that has already made it to 200,000 this quickly, is more likely to go another 100,000 miles... however, you should be prepared for any inconvenience.. the new head work should include the redesigned head gaskets that will not likely fail. Here's the value with this mileage, price range $2,500 to $3,000 would be a good deal.. http://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/2007/Subaru/Legacy-4- Cyl/Wagon-5D-Outback-I-AWD/Values

See this, http://www.truedelta.com/Subaru-Outback/reliability-253

Francis, I'm sorry, but you are in WAY over your head...as is Mark for even condoning your project. A 10 yr old Subie with 200k is simply NOT going to be around for another 100k...or even half that, unless a truly extraordinary specimen. I'd guess you have about a 2% chance of success. Start with a MUCH younger one. Age is NOT kind to Subies....

Well, I suppose it depends on what area of the country you live. If you live in Ernie's area, the "rust belt", then he's right, get rid of cars or don't purchase them or any other cars in the first place...if I lived in New England, I would just lease cars for three years and turn them in every 36 months.... On the other hand, if you live in Los Angeles, or Southern California, your car will last much longer...oh, it's true.... You know, Subaru's are on average one of the longest cars on the road.... And,. then there's the Subaru High mileage club...see this website and the one following, What area of the US do you live?? It makes a difference.... http://www.subaruhighmileageclub.com/miles500000.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/70864-average-life-of- subarus/

I personally know someone who went 300,000 miles in his 2010 Subaru Outback Limited before he had an unexpected accident .....

Besides, if you can get the car for under $4,000 , I would consider it a pretty good deal...Do you disagree with this price Ernie???

Francis, let's say you only get 50,000 miles from this car but only pay $4000 tops including tax.. , that's only 12.5 cents per mile....

I own a 2005 Subaru Outback 220 239 thousand miles and I still running just need minor work I love my car

Nice shoes, Sarena! Congrats on still enjoying your aging OB. 2005 was a tricky year, as it was a mongrel year between the 2000-2004 era and the 2006-2009, sharing the motor of the old with the emissions requirements of the new. Hence it has FIVE oxygen sensors, which drives us mechanics nuts when there's a CEL for any ot them, as they play hide 'n seek. Other than pretending to be a Xmas tree it's a fine iteration, so continue to enjoy it until a weepy head gasket gets to be too painful. Draining and refilling your 4EAT trans is a good idea every few years, too, as it's very cheap and easy. Brava, girl!

How about a 2001 Subaru Outback with 165K for $1,500?

No thanks...I generally donate these to charities.

thanks. your answer came just in time for me to NOT make a mistake purchasing it.

2010 outback with 240,000 miles for 3k? Worth a look?

Sure. Look at t-belt and check CVT carefully.

Hey there, can you give me your thoughts on this? https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewI nventoryListing.action? zip=19533&maxPrice=10000&showNegotiable=true&sourceContext=unt rackedExternal_false_0&distance=50&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEnti ty=d380#listing=229750238

Doesn't load.

It's a 2008 outback 2.5i 136,000 miles for $5346. It's also manual. I'm looking to get out of my current vehicle 2010 Acura RDX with 105,000. I still owe around $10,500 on that. The premium gas thing is just not ideal for me and my situation anymore as that has drastically changed. Any other recommendations for vehicles that are around that price range or a little more that are reliable at higher milages. The awd is nice for snow where I'm from. Also any other suggestions for buying vehicles with high milage.

Get it checked by an actual Subie wrench, as there are too many risks in purchasing a decade+ old Subie. Check HGs, exhaust, the tranny's viscous link, as well the normal stuff like CVs, suspension, brakes 'n tires. Good luck. On the average I have to look at 10 of these before finding a good one.

Okay, going off of that, it makes me not even want to go the route and for good reason. Would I be safer to go with a newer one 2011-2012 with 120,000-150,000. I'm going to have to pay more probably, but I want something that is going to last me a long time. Are there other vehicles you would really consider that are a tad older and have high milage? I don't really want to buy anything over 130,000 if I can help it.

2010-2012 are safer in that HGs are solid, but early CVT failures plague all 2010-2014 2.5i. You're a bit safer with 2013+ because of the more rugged new 2.5i, and safer still with 2015+ with the 3nd gen CVT. I like older Mazda 3s as reliable eco-boxes.

Would a 2005 Subaru Forester 2.5X AWD with 185,000 miles be worth it?

My 2010 has no HG or CVT issues....cars, drivers and conditions vary....the 2013 model has been known to be a problem with the engine.

how about a 2007 subaru legacy with 148,000 miles on it for $5,000?

Mark (aka Grasshopper) is once again in serious error. 2013-2019 DOHC 2.5i are just fine un less you get an oil drinker. Sigh.... Sorry...I don't need a 2007 dinosaur.

What are your thoughts on purchasing a 2017 Outback Limited with 80,000 miles for 20,000. It seems high miles for the year, but since it’s a Subaru I wasn’t sure if it would be ok? It seems to be about 6-7k less than similar vehicles with 20,000-30,000 miles. Thoughts?

A 2yr old OB Ltd driven 40k/yr COULD be easily worth $20k now, if properly vetted...and suspension improved by replacing the rear swaybar. Good luck, and check carefully.

Looking at a 2007 Forster 220k miles but just had the T-belt replaced along with few other things. Went and drove it and it doesn’t have any weird noises and shifts good

Replaced the t-belt without the HGs?

Hello! I'm looking at a 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited with 100,803 for $13,499, H4 engine, single owner. The interior is beautifully maintained. Is there anything to check for or be wary of when looking at this car?

SPECIFICALLY...operation of the first-gen CVT. Possible, but unlikely seepage from front engine cover. Both are pricey repairs. Brakes, tires, etc., are easy. Wheel bearing wear is common, and sometimes not immediately distinguished from CVT internal bearing wear, so be extrs careful if you hear a "bearing" noise. I'd change out the iridiums and CVT fluid, as well go to 5w30 synth, and probably swap out the 6 yr old front serpentine, as they stretch and start to squeak. Headlight bulbs are a pain to replace...and you'll do so often. Good luck.

How about a 2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i premium with 201k miles for $5000 in New England? Can’t afford more but want something substantial & safe for kiddos so liking it better than the Sentras and Fits and Cruzes I’m seeing but concerned about the mileage

Piggy-backing on @Jgibb04's question to ask a similar one. I'm in Maine and looking for a car for my son. 2011 Suburu Outback 2.5i, 185,586 miles, single owner (someone I know), regularly serviced, rear brakes replaced last month, tires in good shape - $5,000. Good deal?

Maybe. Time bombs will be the 1st Gen CVTs.

Question for the suburuguruboston! Looking at a 96 legacy with 220k miles worth it?

All Subarus are worth looking at if you're a fan. But taking a ride in this one, nevermind actually BUYING IT, is certainly ill-advised.

SUBARU OUTBACK 2012 for $9800 with 160000 miles ? please help thanks

Looking at an2005 outback 2.5 xt limited wagon 4d, automatic... 200,000 miles... are these reliable? What should I look for besides leaky head gaskets and are they belt or timing chain?

2005 OB cat doesn’t exist. Try again.

A reliable car with 200,000 miles? You can rely on it to not last much longer without serious cash outlays.

Looking at 2011 outback with 134,000. With all the bells and whistles for 8990.00 new brake and 140,000 mile service done. Good price ? Very well taken care of

Seems high to me Imagene. Offer less.

Ive been driving Subarus all my life. All Subarus have a head gasket issue around 120,000 miles. That could cost u about $3,500at a dealer to fix. Anyone who has owned a Subaru will verify this. If u buy a high mileage Subaru then the problem has already had to be fixed and it can go up past 300,000 miles. I will never buy new or low mileage again

Geez, don't fly naked! There are MANY 150+k mid-noughts SOHC 2,5i with original HGs still rolling around! Stating that they "go" at 120k is a very crude guess, as the HGs' compromise is correlated with thermal dynamics, NOT mileage; i.e., it's the number of cold starts that determines probability of rupture. Since HG condition is so easy to assess (just LOOK at them!), any evaluation of any 2000-2009 2.5i is fairly easy to evaluate for its MOST probable external HG failure. HOWEVER, internal failures that result in percolation cannot be determined with external assessment. Only a percolation test will provide total protection against having to perform a $1.6k HG replacement procedure. Again: has NOTHING to do with mileage!

Imagene: no such animal as a 140k service. 2011 SOHC 2.5i HGs should be ok, but check t-0belt for cracks in rubber. "Brake service" SHOULD mean full replacement of all rotors and pads...NOT just repadding. Assess tires and wheel bearings. Biggest risk is wear of first gen CVT, so be ESPECIALLY aware of this aged transmission. If all is perfect $9k is not unfair, but I doubt that you've unearthed a gem. I would spend approx $1-2k perfecting a raw "good" 2010-2014 OB, so you'd be safer at $8k max if CVT and t-belt are good. $7k if tires and rotors needed. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

I'm in Denver, where Subarus are expensive. I'm looking at a 2013 premium for 13,000 with 100k miles. What are your thoughts? What can I expect to be issues with this car, or should I just stay away?

The place my fanily and friends use in NY

The place my family and friends buy are cars from in NY sells them at much better prices that. May be worth saving like $5000 and buying in NY. Fly here in what would be a free vacation and take a road trip back haha. If you do it make sure the head gaskets were done.

Oyoyoy.... Yes, prices in the northeast are generally less than in the southwest or northwest. An AVERAGE '13 OB Prem w/100k sits around $11k here. Moonroof or Nav adds a nickel, maybe. Aside from the normal stuff (brake rotors, wheel bearings and tires), the BIG risk is indeed first gen CVT failure. The plus side is perhaps garnering a specimen with less salt exposure than here in Beantown. As an example, I might sell my daughter's late '13 OB Limited w/ 140k and all new parts for low $12k's and swap her into a '16-18 Prem if a client needs a cheaper OB. Just be especially careful of the CVT, and try to grab it under $12k...esp if it needs rubber or brakes. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

Hi all - Got the sad news that my 2015 Forester's transmission belt is "slipping" and the transmission needs to be replaced. I am wondering if it is worth replacing this element for several thousand dollars or if it just time to move on to a different car. I am a commuter so I am a bit worried about driving a car with high mileage, but I have already done a lot of high mileage tune ups, new wheel bearings etc. Thoughts/insights welcome!!!

I'd start by pushing SOA for significant "good will participation" in getting you a new CVT, as they do have an extended warranty. Failing that, chase a used one from a salvage yard for under $1k and spend another $500 to install it carefully. DO NOT pay anyone who says they can rebuild your old one...they can't!

thank you so much for the insights. I am in talks with SOA. Good news - my mechanic said the same thing about the rebuilding non option, so glad to know he is knowledgeable about what can and cannot happen. im still in shock that this happened after such a little amount of time.

Hello everyone, I am looking at a Subaru OB. The owner says that it was a newer, one owner high mileage Subaru 2013 OB. Base model, six speed manual. He took it to his trusted family mechanic and put a bunch of $$ into it to get it fully ready to go. Had the catalytic converter replacement job done, had a tps sensor replaced and had an HD conversion done on the headlights. The mechanic told him while he was in there that the head gaskets had already been done on the vehicle. It is 161k miles. EVERYTHING works (including cold ac). If I had to answer the question of any imperfections, I would say cosmetic scuffing on back passenger side, and a slight exhaust rattle when engine is cold. no smoke odors. good beefy tires. Welcome any thoughts and insights. Thanks in advance!

Doesn't smell right, as a 2013 does NOT have the old SOHC 2.5i that had weak HGs, so I'm skeptical at best. I also completely eschew "base" models, as they lack too many features folks deem necessary, as provided in the much more popular Premium. As well, the antiquated manual tranny (designed in 1989) uses a LOT more gas than the CVT, but that might not matter for your needs. The 2.5i is torquey, so tends to shred clutches if driven aggressively off the line. You didn't mention the price. If really cheap enough you can perhaps use this as a stripped mid-speed hauler, but it's no fun to drive in urban conditions, and is pretty noisy at high touring speeds. Think of it as an old-world "truck" and you might enjoy it. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

Thanks a lot for your prompt response. The car is 7K after taxes, sans registration. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my post. I will be moving to upstate New York next year, and wanted to have an AWD. Will be traveling to the mountains often, so I heard that Subarus are pretty predominant there. Again, thank you much for your help. I will keep looking.

$7k is indeed cheap enough, but I still question the applicability of the manual trans in mountainous use, as clutch wear will be very rapid on uphill starts. The "stick" is in its wheelhouse 20-70mph, not uphills, grinding urban stop 'n go, nor very high speed cruising because of its noise and lack of a very high gear.

If you drive a lot you should not buy a high mile car. If you buy a car with 161K on it then how much use do you have left in it? 40K more is probably all you can count on IF the car is in good shape now. Factor in your loan term and your annual miles!

Hello, looking at 2012 Forester 2.5X Premium for $9,980 at 106k miles... Anything specific to look for?

Yes. But better to bring it to professional EYES at a Subaru dealership for a thorough inspection. The biggest risk is a bad CVT, by the way. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

Looking at a 2017 Outback Premium with 102k miles on it from my local Subaru dealer. One owner. The dealership sold it to the original owner and did all maintenance until they traded it in. Sound like a safe bet?

Get an extended warranty if you can.

Only if a great deal. They're hoping to sell it quasi-retail to grab quick bucks before wholesaling, as NO new-car store wants to have trades on their lot over 60k (factory powertrain), as it's a disincentive to repeat similar trades. (How can you lure a customer's trade for a new car when there's a clone sitting there for sale?) The good news is that the modern DOHC 2.5i and the 2nd gen CVT are rock solid. It'll need all new brake rotors and pads soon, so factor that in. Maybe a wheel bearing too. Also check for motor front cover oil seepage, as it's difficult to repair. (Disclaimer: I have a pair of late 2017 OB Prem w/ 72 and 75k with all new parts for $19k in Boston) Be careful re the cost-benefit ratio of an extended warranty. Usually they carry 50% margins, so only buy one at half price. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

Further. I've bought original-owner-trades from Subie stores for 35 years. The claim is meaningless, as CURRENT condition is not correlated with past service! Just be careful, and if you're not a mechanic get a second opinion unless you have a solid relationship with their service manager. Usually he/she doesn't know that the vehicle was traded, as they won't prep it beyond detailing for an eventual wholesale auction, so don't trust what a salesperson says re condition. They simply don't know!

I am looking at 2013 Subaru OB. 162k for 8,500.00. Claims CVT replaced, Limited package. Should I stay away?

No, but get proof of CVT replacement. Check front of motor for oil seepage at t-chain cover, as well normal cheaper stuff. Good luck.

I’m curious what would you offer for mechanically sound 162 k limited pkg. looking at blue book anywhere from 7888. To 9460. Btw thank you for responding so quickly. Good guy!

Pre-response: Use NADA.com instead of Kelly for more accurate valuation. If CVT is indeed replaced, and all tires and brake rotors are strong, then a retail of $10k is not out of the question for a '13 Limited w/ 160k. But again, it's all about condition...and that CVT.

Ask your self how many miles you drive annually and multiply that by the loan term in years. Unless you only drive a couple of thousand miles a year you need a lower mile car.

THREE Grand?! Unless it's a frame wreck that's a steal. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

hi, I am moving to Norway for winter (to the south;-). I am going to buy my first car to drive in the mountains where I live in a cabin and I would like it to be Subaru OB diesel 2.0 premium 2010 or 2012. 2010 I found here, you can see that I want to buy from a private person and it costs 9000$ https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=161930361 I need your advice, I am no mechanic and I never wanted a car but now it is necessary and OB seems like the right choice, so I am very excited. High mileage on this car worries me. I found one from a dealer, it is 2012 and much lower mileage, but it costs 16000$ so 7000$more. https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=167848747 please, I am waiting for your comments, especially the TheSubaruGuruBoston

Euro-OBs I've seen in my travels have a lower chassis than in North America (thankfully), so handle better than ours. North American dealers were practically praying that Subaru would bring their diesel, so loved in German taxi fleets and elsewhere, to our market, but Toyota wouldn't pay the fare to certify for US use, wanting to shove their hybrid scheme onto poor Imprezas instead. The rest is history, as the Prius hybrid system yielded only +10% fuel eco, and initially cost +$5k premium! Plus most of them were orange or lime green...oy. So we don't have experience with the diesel, so you'll have to research any foibles over in the EU. Otherwise, 2010-2014 era OBs are indeed nice chariots, not eating much except wheel bearings and of course the fairly high risk of wearing out the first generation CVT. That risk DOES suggest getting a rare (at least here) manual trans specimen, but Subie's torquey I4's eat clutches quickly in the hills and in spirited urban driving. +$7k is too much for just a jump from 2010 to 2012 UNLESS there's a great difference in condition, of course. So I'd have the '10 thoroughly checked by a competent mechanic (and a Subaru one if you can find one in Helsinki...or across the sea in Tallinn? Here in the US Subaru's gasoline SOHC 2.5i was greatly updated from a belt-driven design used in 2000-2012 to the modern chain-driven cams DOHC in 2013-2019. In THAT case I'd countenance a fair value play of +$5-7k between a 2010 SOHC and a 2013-2014, all conditions equal. I really wouldn't worry about a mileage (do you mean km?) difference, especially if the use was benign highway-driving and not delivering herring in the Old Town. Good luck. Ern

Finn, couldn't get those links to work, by the way.... Further, in North America the taller OB used 225/60TR17 tires to reasonably good effect. I believe the OBs I saw in the Baltics were shod with better 225/55R17. If that's true for BOTH of the two '10 and '12 you're comparing, then they should handle identically. Again, you'll have to do your own local (EU) research re the Subie diesel experience. Now that the bloom is off the smelly diesel rose ten years later it'll be interesting to see what Toyoburu comes up with, as the brand new (2020) direct-injection 2.5i isn't much of a revelation, just an incremental upgrade using Toyota's direct injection prowess with Subaru's H4 architecture. Good luck.

hi, thank you and please have a look at this vehicle, found it in Germany: https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html? id=292262425&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true& makeModelVariant1.makeId=23500&makeModelVariant1.modelId=13&pageNumber=2&sco peId=C&sfmr=false&sortOption.sortBy=creationTime&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING &searchId=d6175e77-8af5-84a5-1c79-e48cc4e85fdb looks the best so far.

I couldn't link. Regardless, there is VERY LITTLE that any of us pro wrenches can do to evaluate a specimen remotely. There is no replacement for using an expert who will physically inspect any candidates you unearth. PLEASE be careful, and exercise due diligence. You may be able to hire an independent local professional mechanic to perform an evaluation for a fee. So can YOU describe the vehicle, as the link doesn't work?

so the car I am checking out is : www.mobile.de Subaru Outback Legacy 2.0D*4x4*Xenon*Leder*R-Cam*8xAlu* Subaru Outback 2014 premium diesel, manual transmission 100 000 miles 10 000 dollars I get a feeling this is it. Got it reserved.

2014 OB Prem diesel 100k $10k? Good deal indeed. Proceed with care. Ern

2010 Outback 2.5i premium 105,000 miles... 11k? Seems like it's in great condition... What should i look out for? Possibly buying tomorrow hoping for response!

Biggest risk is a bad CVT, of course. $11k is a lot for a ten year old, unless it has nav and sunroof, as well all NEW tires and brakes. Figure $300 for that STi rear swaybar mod, too. I was thinking $9k....Good luck. Ern TSG/B

2011 Outback 2.5i Mileage: 234,000 worth $3900?

Maybe.

Offer less!

Thank you both for responding. Sorry I couldn't provide more details, that's all I have at the moment other than pictures of the exterior and interior which looks very good and states no mechanical issues. I'll ask for service records. What might be the major mechanical concerns for this vehicle? I definitely was going to offer less, I think the most would be 3500.

It's only nine years old, but that's about 63 in dog or Subaru winters. So getting a useful answer from this query is liking asking us to check out an aging geezer for your next spouse for the long haul. The range of conditions is breathtaking! 2010-2012 use the old t-belt driven SOHC, which is a simpler motor, but apt to require an internal belt and pulleys, so peel back the left front plastic cover and check the t-belt, at least. Pull the plugs and replace with new iridiums...and wires if original. If the motor is actually still running on a nice aged plateau the biggest risk is eating the CVT, which is quite common in the 2010-2014 era. Not being rebuildable, you'd have to chase a new complete "heart" to get a full transplant, which will cost 1/2 your investment. Minor stuff includes exhaust components, old struts, and minor bushings, end links, TREs, and of course brake rotors. So depending upon condition the range of value here varies from NEGATIVE (yes, less than free!), to maybe $6k if he has a nice smile, cooks well, and can run or cycle at speed. Get it? IOW if you ask even a dozen mechanics who check it out if it's a good deal you'll STILL get a wide range of opinions that are just partially-educated guesses based more on human bias than actual ability to predict the future. So I'll cover myself and stick to: "I'll take the car and $1k to take it off your hands and cover labor to dispose of this worn-out, ailing geezer..." to 50-60 Ben Franklins and hope to dodge that lightning bolt! Good luck. Ern TSG/B

Let me add that bottom-fishing old Subarus (or Bimmers, Audis, et al AWD vehicles) is ridiculously difficult. Knowing when to judiciously invest in repairs vs donating to charity can be gritty work attempting to capture a nice tipping point. So again, you don't want to grab a spouse that you'll want to push overboard after the first sail, and with only $4k to risk, there are safer, simpler, old vehicles to date. Unfortunately none have AWD. Ern

This would be for my son who will be 16 this fall. Looking for something safe and AWD (for the snow), but not too fun, if you know what i mean. I am comfortable with doing most of my own car repair, short of engine rebuild and transmission replacement.

If you don't mind gaining a second job keeping an ancient Subie running well you should pass. If you want an intense bonding experience either with the Subie or it AND YOUR SON, then maybe it's a nice parenting curve...?

2002 Subaru Outback with 200,xxx miles for $1500? Originally asking $2,300 but lowered because owner is out of state and needs to get rid of it. No major repairs needed, just high mileage!

These are usually donated to charity for tax write-offs, which will yield a typical $500-800. So try $1k and a smile and start a second career pouring buckets of $100 bills into sustaining a dinosaur. On the other hand, eh?

Seen a nice 1999 outback sport with a manual trans with 130,000 on it for 2200 with new drive shaft,struts ,joints shocks ,water pump , thermostat,timing belt,pullies,new axels , new tires.. don’t know much about Subaru’s just heard they are pretty reliable. Being that I live in desert and occasional trip to Oregon and awd suv seemed a way to go! I need a cheap commuter car that’s going to last that I could wrench on any suggestions? Thoughts? Advice?

I'm considering buying a 2016 OB w/95000 on it, should I be worried or stray away?

You'll probably be ok, except for the common 4th year stuff like brake rotors, tires. Be careful that there's no transmission problem, and that the motor's front cover isn't seeping oil. Replace the rear anti-swaybar with the 2015+ STi thicker version for a cheap, dramatic improvement in handling. If it needs new tires, go with the better 225/60R17 for better traction than the OE 225/65 truck tires. Good luck. Ern TSG/B (Disclaimer: I sell 2016-2018 OBs and Legacys in the Boston area)

Hi. Looking at a Subaru Outback 2007 model 2.4 engine, auto, 250,000 km (not miles) on odometer. New cambelt, new service, brakes. For $3800 nzd. Is it a good car?

Sure, if the HGs aren't wet.

What about a 2003 Subaru Forester with about 170,000 miles? In Arizona, so no winters and it's super dry in my region. I would get it checked out first to make sure all the maintenance and work is there that they're claiming... but I'm wondering if it's just silly to get a car with that high of mileage? I know they can go up to 300,000+, but is that normal?

Hello! 1. Any advice on a 2007 Subaru Outback XT 2.5 Limited 125k miles for $5000? 2. This community is awesome, love the way you guys help each other steer clear of a bad purchase. Link to craigslist post -> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/d/san-francisco-rare-2007-subaru- outback/7112449790.html#

Extremely fragile motor. Most of these are in salvage yards or crushed. Not sure I'd take it for free!

Response above is for the '07 XT. Re the '03 For 2.5i: All 2.5i NA motors in the noughts are subject to weak head gasket failure. The most important things to check are whether the heads are completely dry, as well the performance of the old 4EAT tranny. Then look over the whole car for corrosion. Here in the northeast most 15+ year olds are already crushed for recycling. Like above, I'd take this dinosaur only if cost-free. The driveline IS indeed capable of several 250- 400k mi of service, but only in about the first dozen years or so. Be careful!

Should all early FB25 engines be suspect of high oil consumption? I've read reviews of 2011-12 Foresters, while many mention oil consumption, some praise it as being very reliable with not a mention of any major trouble. Preferring manual transmissions, how is the 5 speed manual in that era Forester? I've heard the last manuals available in the Outback weren't very impressive. I'll see ads for Foresters with the FB25 with considerable mileage, in the 150k + range. Is it likely the short block in those was likely replaced, or other work done to resolve oil consumption? I don't currently own a Subaru, but there's still appeal to them for me. I've owned many over the years. If I were to purchase one, I'd consider one with the FB25 due to having a chain rather than a timing belt - but of course there's the oil situation. There's a dealership in my state that replaces the timing belts ad head gaskets in every Subaru they sell according to their website. They're priced accordingly - a bit higher than book value but maybe overall a decent deal for one with an EJ25. I probably still have a PH3593 oil filter in my garage. Having a company vehicle, a high mileage vehicle would be OK for me as it wouldn't be used daily.

Early FB25...esp Foresters, apparently suffered from incorrect calibration of engine cylinder boring robots, resulting in loose oil control rings that easily passed oil...especially the 0w20 spec in North America. These outliers are different from the "normal" population of horizontally-opposed motors that will consume more oil than upright geometries. Subaru has basically NOT changed its manual trans since the first Legacys in 1990...so it's an old, but reliable design, that was comparable in efficiency to the equally-old 4EAT automatic. But the current CVTs are SO much more efficient that there's no interest in producing a newer manual. Driving the CVT in "fake" 6sp manual mode can be fun, but there's no way fuel eco will match the combined ECM and TCM's dance to squeeze +20% better efficiency. Timing chains have been extremely durable, head gasket issues solved back in 2010. I suspect you are conflating a reasonavble procedure of "resealing" all 2000-2009 2.5i before resale, but applying that rigor to 2010-2012 is probably unnecessary unless the heads are actually leaking. The FB also sports iridium plugs, which don't blow off their anodes like the older platinum ones did, so there's a lot of win-win here with 2013+ OBs. However, there's still a fairly high failure rate of the early CVTs...at least into 2014. Hence my activity consists of procuring only 2016-2018 OBs/Legs for my clients (disclaimer). Now that the CVT is so efficient and durable, I doubt I'd chase a manual again, my last one being a 2013 Imp 5sp 2.0i, which was kinda fun in an old-world hatch kind of way. But modern Imps/Fors/CTs are a mess, so it's best to stick with an FB25/CVT combo...and use 5w30 synth (euro spec) to quench any consumption issues.

I’m looking at a 02 subaru impreza wrx, has some mods, looks decent, thoughts? i’m gonna shoot for 4k price.

Subaru Guru - regarding your response about the 2007 XT, would you recommend staying away from ALL turbos of the late aughts? I’ve heard that the turbo engine can be problematic for these years. What is your opinion in late aught outbacks in general? Besides being prone to head gasket/timing belt failures, anything else to be weary of?

Yup, the early 2.5i did not withstand a blower successfully at all. Often the turbos themselves would blow, releasing enough shrapnel into the block so that even after repair they'd blow up soon after. However, the 2006-2009 Legs/OB 2.5i non-turbo were fine-handling vehicles. Their weak, single-ply head gaskets would start to leak coolant at #4 cylinder, sometimes adding the right side oil leak later. The required "resealing" repair has generally passed into the history books except for less-common failures in the last years (2010-2012) of this motor. The silly twin exhaust used a non-gusseted rear "Y pipe" that would crack open at its crotch, requiring its replacement. Often the muffler flanges were sufficiently disintegrated that performing a full "cat-beck" replacement was required. Often enough the flanges could be cleaned up, and perhaps with a double-gasket, the decent mufflers could be saved. An aftermarket gusseted Y pipe (Walker?) was much improved over OEM, reducing the cost to about $300, perhaps plus $125 for each muffler if required. Since cleaning up the rear flanges and risking a weak repair requires more labor than replacing the entire cat-back assy, lots of shops would just perform this more comprehensive repair, upcharging sometimes egregiously for the parts; but at least the whole job took under an hour.... Oh...at the Y-pipe's FRONT flange is the infamous "flex-gasket", a woven steel donut that allowed this joint to wiggle when bouncing over potholes, thereby helping to prevent the contiguous stainless steel sections from cracking. Some wrenches wouldn't bother to replace this donut and its spring-bolts, and simply used a solid gasket connection. I'm not sure if they held up.... Small wheel bearings have been the bain of Subies for ages, and continue into the 2015-2019 era too. They're encased in a one-piece hub assy, so are easily replaced with a bit of arm-strong to pop the old one out if rusted. Rears are a much more frequent need than fronts.... Timing belts are subject to aging out and developing cracks; they're easy to assess by peeking through the pushed-forward open left upper front plastic cover; test for tensioner function at the same time. A pretty good guess for lifetime is 9-12 years, regardless of mileage, as degradation is correlated with heat, time, and HOURS of operation...not distance traversed. 2006-2007 hoods were aluminum (yay!), reverting to rust-prone steel for 2008-2009. Some old wrenches feel that the latter, having a newer ECM/emissions format, were a bit quicker, but I'm not sure that's placebo effect. Water pumps are golden, and radiators tend to hold up, but look for cracks. Rear hatch mechanisms were still exposed cheap steel, you may have to rebuild the hardware. Tokico and KYB OEM struts were pretty good, and easily replaced if necessary. I recall rears going before fronts? I have a good friend with a 2006 OB I sourced for him a decade ago that didn't eat head gaskets until 2017. But last month a t-belt idler sheared off, taking a head with it. Yech! But now it should hold up, as its rear quarters aren't rusting out yet.... But again, stay away from the pressurized turbos unless you can grab one of these for VERY short money and can toss it to charity once the motor grenades. Have fun. Ern (disclaimer: I sell 2016-2018 Legs/OBs to selected clients in the Boston area; 781 483-3922)

I'm looking at a 2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i Wagon for 200,000 on it $3,500 OBO in Reno, NV - the 3rd most expensive city in the nation to buy cars. What an honor! The engine was replaced at 88,000, "needs battery and spark plugs" (?) The catalytic converter(s) were replaced. Even with a heart transplant, am I looking at a money bucket? I'd be happy to buy an older Subaru with less miles especially on my budget, but wouldn't we all!

Great, thanks for the info. Appreciate your insight!

Late 'noughts OBs are in short supply in the northeast too, as they're all rusting out and along their extinction curves. So don't overpay for one. But assessing value in the death curve ($1-5k) is nearly impossiblle, especially remotely. Note that mileage is not AT ALL correlated with health, so don't worry about the 200k. If you do grab this pup use the newer iridium plugs and new ignition cables, cleaning the coilpack terminals with steel wool. Then test to ensure you don't need head gaskets. If so, return the car immediately or throw it away. Expensive gamble? Yes. All Subaru dinosaurs are. (Disclaimer: I service and sell 2016-2019 Legs/OBs in the Boston area.) Good luck. Ern

After doing some more research I see there's something else to worry about - spun bearings. Most reports of that seem to be turbos, but certainly not exclusively. I know not maintaining sufficient oil levels can be a very significant cause. I wonder, is it in fact a relatively rare occurrence on a normally aspirated Subaru engine?

Thoughts on a 03 Forester 2.5x automatic transmission. Has 122xxx miles on it. Dealership is asking $3995 for it. Thoughts? Is it worth it?

If it needs a tranny or head gaskets it has almost negative value.

Old Foresters have a slight resurgence of interest as funky truck-like dinosaurs. Noisy, tight, and cheaply made, they suffered by having the notorious porous head gaskets endemic in all 2000-2009 2.5i. As well, despite the 4EAT being a sturdy gearbox, its subject to getting really gunked up if its ATF isn't drained and refilled every few years. As such, it CANNOT be reverse-flushed in an attempt to thoroughly clean, as its interval valves will crud up and block function. Seventeen years is a LONG time for this tranny. Each of these frailties will cost $1.5k+ to remedy. Add to that exhaust work, struts, bushings, brakes and tires...and a major tuneup (iridiums, wires, coilpack...and maybe an alternator (as they're famously bad back then) you could get unlucky and put $4k into this rust-bucket (watch those rear quarters and rockers!) in a year or three. As such, old Subies are rarely a good investment. Caveat emptor! (Disclaimer: I service and sell 2016+ OBs in the Boston area)

What about buying a 2006 Subaru legacy spec b with 250,000 miles on it for 3000 i expect it to have some problems but i’m thinking it would be a great project

Hey Subaru Guru! You really know your stuff and like helping people! I'm looking into a 2002 Outback with 210k miles for $1k. Apparently likely needs a new timing belt in a few thousand miles, but new rear brake pads and new sway bar connector were put on in the last few months, and new heat sensors and new head gasket was put in in 2017. Thoughts?

"Apparently likely needs...in a few thousand miles." Reads like you don't have a clue re real physical and mecxhanical assessment, and are just looking at receipts or verbal reportage...so run away! Early noughts OBs suffer from terminal rear quarter rot that makes investment a VERY short term proposition. I'd take on this project if the car came with a big bag of money gratis.

Hey @TheSubaruGuruBoston, thanks for doing all this for everyone over the years. Love to throw my question your way and get your thoughts on this 2008 SUBARU OUTBACK 2.5I LIMITED with 144,735 miles. Has had two owners and includes an extensive service history. Can't tell if that service history is a good sign that it's been receiving ongoing maintenance, or that it's just slowly having issues one after another. Thoughts? Dealer: https://www.ourismanchantillytoyota.com/used/Subaru/2008-Subaru-Outback-94449dd40a0e0a6b32d029a1e76c970d.htm# Carfax: https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx? partner=CUL_1&vin=4S4BP62C087357580&compCode=y2%2FCqJiYTxQR0iB9SymD9HtaSc6wUK5S

Hey looking for some advice, there is a 2006 subaru outback for sale for 3,900. "Timing belt was done at 194,000 Miles with the heads being resurfaced and all new intake and exhaust valves installed. Water pump and oil pump also done at the same time ." Odometer reads 217,777. Reviews for outbacks before 2010 are all over the place....and yet I see those cars everywhere. I'm going to look at the car, and also if serious take it in for inspection. What are folks thoughts on this? I'll be moving and going to grad school, and will most likely not be using a car very much. But when I do use it I will also most likely be hiking or trying to ski....so yeah okay choice for just a year? Or walk away? I need a car that will last me for another year, but not too much beyond that (family trade in the works).

Hi Kath. With over 20k since full HG job it sounds like this old SOHC 2.5i motor is running happily. 2006-2009 is a decent era, but age=rust, so the exhaust system, starting with the ridiculously-poor original rear Y pipe, may already have a gusseted new one...as well new muffler pair. The gas struts are sturdy, but don't last forever. By now the f+r swaybar end links and bushings, as well a TRE or BJ, are shot, and these 2000-2009 Legs/Obs are famous for bad DOJ half-axle boots. The 4EAT is a sturdy trans, but subject to gunking up if its ATF isn't drained and refilled every year or three. (Drive slow figure eights and listen for both bad axles and "crabbing" in the rear, indicating the trans is shot. As well, count the time between P or N and D or R lag before the trans responds and moves off. Anything more than a full second is suspect. As these 4EATs age their inner seals leak enough to slow normal pressure buildup (eventually they won't move from D or R at all, or only after a long delay and aggressive throttle...possibly killing a pedestrian!). First service is to drain and refill the ATF (3.7qts)...twice over a time gap if necessary...until it's pink or very light brown. Check that the motor is indeed still DRY...especially left rear lower corner (coolant leak) and right side head (oil). Sometimes wrenches aren't careful to use new head bolts nor torque them correctly. Radiators are decent, but light and cheap, and their plastic tops can crack from age and hot-spot stress. The electrical system is pretty robust (Nissan parts), but harness wires passing from the roof into the hatch routinely crack and break, taking out lights, wiper motor, etc. Good idea to pop the hatch panel and free-up and lube the rear hatch assy, as they rot out. The suspension loves its 225R17 tire-wheel setup, but old alloys can leak, requiring tire removal and wire-brush cleaning their beads. The 2005-2007 have aluminum hoods (yay!) , but be careful that their latch assys are free and lubed so you don't have a hood fly-up one day! Keeping older Subies going is a real crap-shoot, so even a careful physical assessment is no guarantee of an easy third life. Use a REAL Subie indy pro, and good luck. This isn't a simple old Mazda3 (my fave for cheap FWD egg-beaters), so caveat emptor and good luck...the last year of an old Subie can be a very expensive one, and somewhat unpredictable. (Disclaimer: I buy/service/sell 2016+ Leg/OBs in the Boston area)

Brian, see above, noting that 2008-2009 have a bad rust-prone steel hood. "Slowly having issues one after another" is par for the course, alas. One has to look at Subie dinosaurs as disposable, and feed them big bucks very gingerly.

Interested in your opinion TheSubaruGuruBoston. Family friend is selling their 2007 Outback 2.5i Basic with a manual for $3,000 (120,000 miles). Meticulously maintained at a Subaru dealer since he purchased new. Engine just underwent a pressure treatment for the head gasket. Is this a smart purchase, know I might have to put some money into it soon.

"...pressure treatment..."?? If you mean "test"...and it passed, then proceed with caution, with my suggestions mentioned above. I always avoided Basic models, as they were too stripped compared to the normal "i" or Premium. But at this age condition is everything. If it has the Basic's cheap steel 16" wheels I'd chase a nice set of used 17" alloys and put 225/HR17 on it for far better handling.

What would you think about me buying a 1998 subie outback? It has 209000 miles? It drives solid and I would only pay $900 for it

How rusty is it, Rusty? If unibody is ok and it doesn't overheat on the highway, and it doesn't need all the brakes, tires, wheel bearings, struts, and exhaust, maybe you'll get lucky...for awhile...as ALL 1996-1999 first gen DOHC 2.5i motors are time bombs because of fragile HG design. You really have to think of this as a temporary disposable purchase before you start pumping money into it, as it could self-detonate (percolation) ANYTIME when driving. 22yrs is a LONG time for the 4EAT tranny too. Maybe start by draining and refilling it with 3.75qts fresh ATF just to be a nice guy.... Good luck, as you'll certainly need it. If you're handy I'd replace the old plugs with modern iridiums too. It'd be smart to test for percolation before you pay for it, as it's more likely to be a salvage yard giveaway....

I found a 2003 forester with 260k miles for 2 grand. Owner has maintenance records of engine/ timing belt being replaced 2 years ago. Is this too risky of a buy of I’m looking for a vehicle to last 2-3 years tops?

Auto or stick? If auto be VERY careful to test the 4EAT function; inspect ATF for condition. Biggest risks are head gasket failure (very common) and worn-out trans. Either will have you donating to charity, of course. Goiod luck. (Disclaimer: I service and resell 2016+ OBs in the Boston area.)

Interesting another Forester with 260k miles. Someone on a Subaru forum has 260k on their 2002. I had a 2002 with a 5MT that I kinda wish I kept and got the air conditioning repaired, and at some point head gaskets. The forum person's 2002 never had major issues, I'm assuming the head gaskets were replaced at least once. I guess the crudeness of my Forester was appealing to me. It rode well, was a great winter vehicle with heated cloth seats. Those are hard to find, I don't like leather. IMO the 2003 is an attractive design year.

Also with the 03 forester it’s a 5MT. I test drove it and it rode incredibly smooth. Insurance will also be less than 30$ through USAA. It has pretty bad hail damage (Colorado) but that doesn’t bother me at all. I think I will go for it

Jake, the only risk with the stick relate to abuse (blown synchronizer), the ubiquitous worn clutches (easy to abuse), or the very common locked-up viscous link AWD transfer "pumpkin". You can easily test the clutch, of course. Up a gentle hill in 4th at 30-40mph might provoke a break-away if the pressure-plate or disc lining's are shot. The viscous link is a bit trickier, as you have to heat it up via sustained highway driving: drive for awhile, then stop at an exit and take tight turns. If the rear seems to be "grabbing" (aka "crabbing"), then your viscous link is shot, as its thixotropic fluid is inoperative. $600 plus a couple hours labor to swap in, so walk away.... Good luck. Ern Stelcom, indeed there are those who like the old jeep-trucky feel of the first Foresters. I wasn't one of them, preferring the sport-wagon-ness of the Legs and eventually OBs. But as a mountain goat an old F stick can be lovely, if crude and noisy, barrel of grins.

My goal is to not have a car payment. I can pay cash for this car. Looking to get me through 3 or so years, knowing iIl need to fix things here and there but hoping for minor things. Thoughts on a 2010 forester 2.5 x limited with 126,336 for $7500. Im in colorado. Timing belt replaced 2000 miles ago, tires replaced 2000 miles ago, one owner and private seller.

You're at moderate risk of losing the CVT's valve body ($1000 repair) or the entire CVT ($1500 w/ used swap). You have to factor in maybe one wheel bearing ($200) and maybe small stuff like swaybar bushings or endlinks and the start of exhaust issues unless you've been protected from corrosion by climate. Good luck.

Hello, I am thinking of purchasing a 2014 Subaru Forester 2.5i Premium AWD. It has 117,920 miles on it, and appears to have been properly maintained according to the CarFax report. There was about a 2 year stint a few years ago where there were no records of an oil change from 2017-2019, then there were regular changes shown. It is going for $11,000. Think this is a good deal? Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks.

Thinking of getting a Subaru Outback 2010 w 125,000. Maintenance every 3 months basically (everything checked, not so much things breaking) one owner, around $7.8k. Thoughts?

Asked and answered often...read the other posts. To summarize, 2010-2012 Legs/OBs still used the old SOHC 2.5i that needs its rubber timing belt to be inspected annually after 8 or so years. If original, you'll be looking at a $600 job, all in. Biggest risk is the CVT's valve body replacement ($900) or complete burnout of the CVT ($2k used all in). As well, to improve handling you should install the rear 20mm STi antiswaybar. (Disclaimer: I service and sell 2016+ OBs and Legs in the Boston area.)

2001 Subaru Outback 200k miles $800. Thoughts. Really need a cheap vehicle to haul my mountain bikes around, mostly highway miles

In a similar situation. Looking to buy a first car. It's a 2001 Subaru Outback H6 2GEN Auto AWD MY02 that's done 334,400 km. The guy has kept all the service history documents. He's recently spent $3000 on it to change the radiator, all the water pipes, generators, belts, brake pads, tires, gasoline pump and head gasket. He's also changed the oil filter frequently and used a full synthetic oil. He lives near me in a neighbouring suburb but the car has been on 2 long trips (Tasmania to Brisbane, Brisbane to Melbourne and back to Adelaide). He's selling it for 2.5k. I'd mostly be driving it around the city with a couple trips, possibly once a week, to about an hour out from where I live. Is it worth it?

You guys are too funny. Hazza: Is it worth WHAT?

Hi @TheSubaruGuruBoston what are your thoughts on a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek with roughly 210,000 miles.

Are you torquing me? I thought that my loathing of the CT with its wimpy 2.0. Overpriced, underpowered, loud. The 2022 2.5i iteration may be more palatable, but I wonder if the upcoming CX30 2.5t isn't the uber-Imp. I'm sticking with Indiana-made 2016-2019 Outbacks and Legacys, especially as modded by me. Try to steal a 2016 Outback 2.5i w/ ES somewhere instead. Then replace the rear swaybar with the 2015+ STi 20mm one and never look back. Ern

@thesubaruguruboston I am thinking of buying a 2008 OB with 166K miles. Owner is asking $4500. Not sure if I should buy or move on. Car is in California and has been for its life. Let me know. Thanks!

2008-2009 were favorites of mine due to perky VVT heads and an aluminum hood. Beware bad HGs ans that farty rear Y-pipe. Check 4EAT as it's getting old, as well for brittle t-belt. Upgrade to iridium plugs is nice. Stick with 225/55R17 rubber. Good luck. Age-related crap like wheel bearings, blown struts, exhaust, swaybar bushings, etc., might plague you annoyingly, but that stuff's cheap.

Hey Subaru Guru, Thinking of buying a Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2006. Anything I need to look out for when it comes to late aughts Impreza Outbacks? They have had the head gasket, timing belt, and water pump repaired.

Clean the ATF (maybe twice), replace the fragile plat plugs with newer iridium ones, use 10w40 dino and realize your fuel eco isn't that great for such a small chassis. Fun car if treated to good rubber. Good luck. Ern

Subaru Guru I think you are the person I have been looking for...What do you think of this 2013 Impreza? Looking for my 17 year old. It has a lot of miles but looks in great condition. I read all the posts above. I keep seeing CVT, head gaskets, engine oil seepage, but it doesn't look like a problem for 2013? https://shift.com/car/2013-blue-subaru-impreza/c104874

I gam,bled on several 2012-2013 Imps a few years ago, but was mightily unimpressed with build quality and weird idiosybcracies that apparently plague most Japanese Imp/For production. Strangely expensive steering wheel/ABS/airbag clocksprings and associated components can provoke nightmares. But the big risk is that indeed the CVT has a fairly high failure rate. Although frugal, it doesn't know how to dance with the wimpy 2.0i motor either. I took a chance on a 2013 MANUAL trans Imp hatch and found it rather nicely balanced and far more satisfyin g to drive than the CVT. But fiven that the much torquier 2,5i with its CVT is MORE frugal than even this funky iteration makes chgasing these small and loud wannabees not recommended. Get your son a nice 2.5i Legacy sedan w/ EyeSight and teach him to care for it. It's a far better Subie.

Thanks SubaruGuru! A Legacy with Eyesight is quite a bit more $$. Do you have any opinion on salvage title vehicles? I found one locally that seems like a great deal. 2017 Legacy Sport Sedan with Eyesight, $11,770 and 79K miles. Since we are on the West Coast everything is super expensive here. The drivers side door was damaged and replaced with a new one.

A '17 Leg Spt w/ ES is a nice vehicle indeed: I just sourced one for my daughter-in-law, and paid a lot more. But I NEVER buy salvage vehicles. But that's because (disclaimer) I resell 2016-2019 Legs and OBs. Back in the day a dented front cross-member...which is essentially just a fragile radiator and grille holder...was sufficient to deem a vehicle "unibody-damaged"...but not necessarily "salvage". The rules vary greatly still. Generally a salvage (or "branded") title is given if there's a declaration of total loss by an insurance company, where the cost of repair exceeds 80% resale value. For a $17k Leg Spt to have a salvage title does mean that there may have been MUCH more damage than just a dented door. Dig deeper: use a body pro instead of a blind mechanic (like me!). Be careful, as you don't want a flooded Subie either.

Guru you are right about the salvage. I always ask if airbags were deployed and the seller gave no answer. Finally gave me the VIN and I was able to find on the auction site - side airbags HAD deployed so it's a no go for me. What year Impreza's would you recommend? Or should we keep trying to find a Legacy? We may jump ship and go with the ubiquitous (boring) Civic or Corolla.

Wondering about how worthwhile old (12-13 year) Subaru outbacks might be as well as whether the older automatics has any issues like the 2010- 2017 ones. Looking at 2 both automatic: 2007 143,437miles 3,800 USD (In Canada but converted) it's an XT but supposedly has had headgasket replace. And a 2008 142,00 miles 4150 USD with headgasket and wheel bearings replaced this year. are there any other major rapairs likey in the next 2-4 years? Any help much appreciated!!

Guru my son is now looking at a 2007 Legacy with 83k miles at a dealership. Two owners, first drove it 12 yes and 65 miles. Second put 18k on in 9 mod. Dealer is asking $8k. New brakes and rotors. My son insists since no cvt it won't have issues. Words of wisdom?

oy oy oy.... A 13 winter old Leg can have myriad issues, chiefly a required HG overhaul ($1.5k) and perhaps a 4EAT trans replacement ($1k used) if fluid was never changed. Add to that exhaust, suspension and maybe tires it's a crap-shoot. Even in fine fettle it's a $5-6k Subie.

Hello Guru! Thank you for answering these questions. I am looking at this car: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/d/rancho-cordova-2005-subaru- outback/7229251332.html 2005 Outback, 196k Miles but 135K on Engine and Transmission, New Timing Belt, Runs and drives great, Clean blue exterior, 17 inch Sport wheels with New Goodyear Tires, Tow hitch, Roof rack, Clean Black cloth Interior, seat warmers, great working A/C and Heater, Cd player, and much more Selling for 4900 I am worried about buying a car with such high mileage. Would love your advice. Thank you!

I have a 2000 legacy wagon I've had since I was 17, I'm now 31. Still have it still driving it, just rolled over 400,000miles on the now 21yr old ej251, 4eat trans. Did the first an only HG/timing belt at 220k. In all hose years it's only left me walking one time(fuel pump) not a big issue there. I agree with (subaruguruboston) with all that he has said. In my opinion but take care of it, don't hot rod around or be stupid in it an it should last as long as you need it to. Keep in mind I know these cars like the back of my hand so for me it's easy to fix and/or replace things at lower costs than going to a shop or dealership, but not everyone is the same. Just my 2cents

Bravo, Wrxlife! Nice to see that you didn't lose the quarters or rockers to unibody corrosion, as befits all the teenaged Subies here in New England. The water's well past the dam, but I would keep the 4EAT fluid clean, and not run less than 1/4 tank fuel to prevent sucking up sedimentary rocklettes from the Crustacean period! I just added a late 2018 with 103k (pristine 2yr off-lease) to my tiny menagerie up here. Should get a proud owner another two or three 100k if cared for like you do. I have a bunch of extra radio-cass-CD heads if you need one to play tunes. $30 shipped! Lemme know. Keep safe and warm. Ern

Wow, congrats on 400k miles, nothing short of amazing! And while you've invested some (but really not a lot for that mileage) look at the money you've saved over the years by not purchasing other cars. It does also say something for the EJ25 and 4EAT. It's great when you can be very familiar with your vehicles and pretty much know what to expect. That takes some ingenuity and talent IMO. I had the same era/style but a 2002 Outback. Great winter car that I wish I kept.

Going to ask here! I have a shot at a 140k mile manual 2013 outback. great service history per the carfax and the car is 8 grand all in from a subie dealer. Thoughts?

Nice. But do note that the nice modern 2.5i DOHC rips up clutches as predecessors did, so be careful there. Look for oil seepage around the front cam covers, as that's a 10hr pricey job. Fuel eco will take a -4-6mpg hit compared to the efficient CVT, but at least you won't have to worry about that...especially since fuel is so ridiculously cheap in North America. You'll eat wheel bearings, but they're only $200 per corner. The Subie store grabbed this in trade and just want to dump it prior to wholesale auction as NO-ONE can resell an aging stick, so don't expect ANY prep except an oil change and quick-vac for $8k. Good luck...and learn to serenely take off in first below 1500rpm without feathering or you'll eat the clutch sooner. Live with the noise at 90mph because it needs a taller overdrive, but it's a sweet driveline 20-70mph.

I'll add that the higher-revving manual easily has spun perhaps twice as much than its CVT super-efficient sisters, so that 140k is really like 250k+ with the CVT. So again, check for excessive timing chain rattle on cold start as well that front cover leak I mentioned above.

Thanks Ernest! You're giving me every reason to steer clear. This is a winter beater vehicle. I just don't want to throw money down a hole.

That's what I feared. The Subie manual hasn't changed since 1990, so although robust, it's old-school. If this chariot's history was all gentle 20-70mph country and highway it might be ok, but if as you say, it's a winter-only grunter it could be VERY tired, and indeed needing at least a clutch and 1-2 WBs. I have a lot of respect for the DOHC 2.5i, including its ability to rip up weak old clutches. Yet if pretty this thing may fetch $7k at wholesale auction. Less fees and transport, that's a net up $6.5k to the store. Maybe you can steal it? Not for the faint of heart.... OTOH 2010-2014 OBs have a significant CVT failure rate, costing $2.5-3k to remedy with USED tranny! It's pretty tough to win here. Maybe you can find an unrusted 2006-2009 stick and deal with exhaust rot and a t-belt from the venerable but old-school SOHC 2.5i. Most of these have long rotted out here in New England. I facilitated a 2006 Limited stick trade last fall; it turned into a nice $2.5k beater to continue one year at a time. But bottom-fishing old Subies always occurs in treacherous waters. Careful!

No no. This would be MY winter beater. From the Carfax and service intervals, the car is clearly a highway miler. Impeccable service records. I would be doing a year-to-year winter grunter. I just wanted the stick and something basic to haul my mountain bikes, my dog and local home store crap. I don't want to continue putting miles on my Mercedes; especially in this weather.

Service records are meaningless! Does it need a clutch? Is the front cam cover leaking? Wheel bearing noise(s)? Have it checked out by an INDY wrench, eh? But maybe you can afford repairs as needed, given it's an extra car....

Haven't gone to see it yet. I was planning on it later. I can definitely afford periodic repairs. I'll probably have it looked at. Thanks!

I assume the same clutch situation would apply to 2011-2014 Foresters? As much as I prefer manual transmissions, I could go with the 4EAT. I've heard (don't know if it's true) the frequent downshifting on the slightest grade like my 2002 Outback's 4EAT isn't as bad on the 4EATs that have the manual shift mode. Maybe using the + - tends to prevent that? Of course the other concern of that era, especially early FB25s is oil consumption. I would think if I bought something with 130-150k miles though either the short block was replaced, or maybe that particular engine was prone to excessive oil use.

Yes.....4/5EATs precede the CVT. Remember that the +/- "shifting of the CVT is simply artificial, and the result of a programmer's work. The "6" steps are now upgraded to seven. Maybe a lucky number? Use 5w30 synth year round. If you use less than 1qt/k miles be happy...especially with the higher-revving manual.

I was referring to the +/- in the 4EAT. Even though 0w20 oil is called for in the FB25 I've read 5w30 is fine and even leads to less consumption.

I've been using 5w30 in the newer 2.5i DOHC for years, as recommended by Subaru for INTERNATIONAL use! Silly that they have a thinner spec for North America to reduce t-chain cold start chatter in winter. Not worth the consumption costs....

Do you find using 5w30 in the FB25 reduces some of the typical consumption? Another forum also mentions how the same engine has different oil recommendations based on the country or continent. If the engine is the same, I wondered about that logic.

As stated just above your query, SOA was worried about customer complaints from the new timing chain driven 2.5i motor in 2012 so reduced the spec from the international 5w/30 to 0w/20 to splash more easily on cold start in winter. The result is more consumption. Some manuals will note that then 0w20 spec is for North America. Consumption of 20w in hot summers can be egregious, so 5w/30 synth is the best option. Even at 0F t-chain startup chatter is less than one second, not an issue at all...especially to those who've been used to rattley Subie motors for decades!

Need help over purchasing a 2006 Subaru Impreza Outback sport special edition sport wagon. (Manual) 160k miles, owner has had timing belt, head gaskets and alternator replaced and can provide me with a carfax. What should I look out for and would it be a good purchase? Thanks!

This thread has been super helpful when shopping for used cars! Thanks everyone for the info, especially TheSubaruGuruBoston for such detailed answers. I'm in Canada and looking at two 2011 Outbacks - one is a 3.6L 6 cyl with 262,000km on it and the other is a 2.5i 4 cyl with 206,000km on it. Both are in good mechanical condition as far as I can tell (I've seen an inspection report for the 6 cyl and everything is a pass, but have yet to have the 4 cyl inspected). Both owners are asking $8000 CAD. Apart from personal preference between 4 and 6 cyls (gas mileage vs. power), is there a significant difference between these cars in terms of potential longevity or problems? Which, if either, would be the better purchase, or should I stay away from both? What should I look out for in these cars? This would be my second car purchase ever and I'm trying to research diligently so I don't end up in over my head. Any thoughts, comments, or insights would be very much appreciated! Thanks!

@TheSubaruGuruBoston--What do you think about this 2010 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium ? Mileage 164,199 https://www.autonation.com/cars/4S4BRBCC6A3377671

2010 OB w/ CVT is apt to lose its trans soon. That's the big risk....and a pricey one at that.

This is such a useful thread! @TheSubaruGuruBoston (or others!) mind weighing in on a 2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium Wagon 4D at 176k?

Funny that I've been renamed Ernest following 28 years as Bopston's TheSubaruGuru. Whatever.... Your 2011 OB has the older (2000-2012) t-belted SOIHC motor, so check the t-belt condition. Find out if the CVT is original, as it will most likely fail...at huge cost. I can only recommend 2015+ DOHC 2.5i as the motors and newer CVTs are more durable. Yet current valuations are absurd enough that I can only recommend a new one...or a 2013-2014 with a new CVT, or an underpriced 2015-2019 hand-me-down. Since I can no longer find any at rational prices I've finally retired last month, but will hang around to help the public. Cheers. Keep warm and safe! Ern

next inquiry: The 2015 OB, although suffering more from first-year foibles, probably will have a more reliable CVT than the weak ones used in 2010-2014. So unless the 2014 already has a new tranny I'd chase the 2015 first. Good luck. Re-read my et al posts above for specific assistance.

Looking at a 2013-2015 Subaru for the kids. I know prices are whacky right now...but timing isn't on my side. Would you be inclined for a 2014 Limited with 165K miles for around $12K? Seller says valve body was replaced and that the CVT still works good. What other questions should I ask?

Note that CVT valve body replacement is an electrical failure, and NOT correlated with lifespan of the main bearing system. So do NOT take false hope from anyone saying that "the valve body's replaced and the CVT looks good". Apples and oranges....

Thank you

Thank you so much, @ernest!

Other 2015-2019 issues? Soft rear wheel bearings and rear brakes last 3 winters. Use 5w30 instead of 0w20 to prevent oil consumption. Suspension and exhaust are solid, as are iridium plugs and drive accessories. Body roll and understeer magically remedied by swapping OE rear swaybar to the thicker/stronger STi version. Cheap and magnificent mod. Ern

Looking at a ‘13 Subaru Impreza 2.0i sport premium, 94K miles. He said Sub dealer just replaced the transmission module and the ignition coil. Curious if that would indicate other potential issues.

To upcoming post: 2013 Imps 2.0i uses FOUR small ignition "coils" built into the spark plug harnesses, so the owner's comment is either sloppy or incorrect. Be careful, and note that 2012-2013 Imps had a lot of teething pains and bad CVTs, as well historically more Japanese factory QA problems (due to forced overtime) than the Indiana factory iterations.