Mazda 3 Break are soft and go low

Its the booster.Tell your mechanic fix the break booster.

same problem as above but l had the brake booster replaced and brake master cylinder brakes bleed done 5 time and still have soft pedal on 1st application but 2 application pedal feels a lot better , a mazda techinician to me it proberly the abs unit as they have 2/3 a year do the same thing which they have to replace to rectify but at $1800 it will be my last resort

are your car manual transmission if is check the clutch master cylinder connects to the brake master cyl.

I also had soft brake pedal syndrome. Installed new pads and turned rotors in front, cross bled everything (RR LF. LR. RF) , pumped a quart and half of brake fluid thru the system. Totally clear, no bubbles. One thread I read said "run it on snow or gravel and lock the brakes, turning the ABS on and pumping out remaining bubbles". No luck. A fancy code reader will purportedly turn on the ABS and clear it. I gave up and took to the mazda dealer. The ABS unit was bad and the replaced no charge under the pzev warranty. A 2009 with 145000 mi...... WHOO HOO! A couple diagnostic comments: A leaking booster will cause a vacuum leak and the engine will idle rough or no at all. The dealer pulled the brake lines off the master and plugged the holes to check the master, seems like an easy test.

Pump your e brake it should fix your problem

It's the ABS pump. Change that and you should be ok

Hi guys I just bought a Mazda 6 2006 no c/e light everything is great except break problems he had to replace breaks and rotors every 3 months they would get bright red and you have no choice to turn the car off to let me cool down no one can figure it out please need some help

I suspect you have an issue with the ABS pump. The same thing is happening with my 2011 Mazda3 with 112,000 miles. The dealership wants $1,500 for a new ABS unit. This is a safety issue that Mazda should have recalled years ago.

I replaced just about everything on the brakes.Costed heaps of un neccessary spending and a waste of goods parts being changed for no reason. Try bleeding them first, if there is no change. Go for the abs module. They have a common fault , where the valves get stuck. This causes a spongy pedal and inconsistent braking. I got mine rebuilt for $700 , pricey but after all the brake specialist that had no idea how to diagnose the problem, it was worth it. Brakes work great now. You can get from a wrecker, but take my advice get on with higher km on the car, I was told and by experience the lower km cars are usually the ones that the valves get stuck, due to lack of use.

I forgot to mention the abs module from mazda in australia was $2450 , so the rebuilt on for $700 was much better value. This drove me mad taking my car to so many specialist that just wasted time and money. They had no idea. Took 4 months of stuffing around to finally work it out.

just fix my sinking peddle, after replacing the Master cylinder, with the same condition. the rite rear caliper with built in parking was sticking internally. work parking brake till the problem fix its self, trust me

Long shot - @Edgenail, if you're still following this thread! I'm a little confused that the ABS module replacement fell under the CA PZEV warranty. Any other details to share? I'm about to take a 2007 (rapidly approaching 15 yr!) to the dealer to ask about this.

My brakes were working just fine. We changed the rotors, calipers, brake pads and flushed the unit and NOW, the brakes are low, spongy, and not fully stopping????

I just got our car fixed and it is the ABS Module part number in Canada is BBY2-43-7AZD Unit HYDRA. for MAZDA 3 2010. The cost is 937.19 Canadian for the part and 5 hours to replace it. I hope this helps you/all. Have a super-duper day :)

Does anyone with the described or similar symptoms observed ABS light at dashboard?

Here is what I have at my Mazda 3 2006. First 1-2 inches of pressing brake pedal is not doing anything. Then it starts braking but not as efficiently as it supposed to be. I definitely need to press harder and deeper to get decent braking effect. No leakage. Break fluid level is not dropping. Car has no tendency to turn during braking (which is the case when there is dis- balance in braking efficiency between left and right wheels). Infrared temperature camera shows that temperature of the both rear rotors are 80°C. while both front has only 60°C. I rather expect opposite. Anyway, 50°C is a typical rotor temperature even brakes were not in use. So 50°C I would consider as cold brakes. I started to hear pretty quiet noise then I release brake pedal. It is a sort of whistling sound really similar to liquid flowing through medical syringe. Or when you release valve at pump floor jack you can hear similar whistling sound. I am not sure when this quite noise appeared. Actually it is possible it exist much earlier. I just did not paid at it attention earlier. To be able to hear it the engine should be shut off. About vacuum booster. I really can't evaluate how it is working. I need to say that experience with mazda is really different to all other cars I drove earlier. Once the engine is off and I applied force to pedal several times or if I do this after a while, my pedal is very hard to be pressed. Totally different with mazda 3. There is no difference if the engine is on or off and when the engine was turned off. It appears as either booster never works and I had no problem with braking (earlier!!!) because of a small car weight, or vacuum booster works all the time even if the engine is off. I rather think second is the case because it was very easy to brake (EARLIER!) with engine both off and on. The common thing here is that now i still see no difference if the engine is on or off. It is about same efforts needed to slow down (no matter engine on or off) =================== If you going to advice me to check/replace ABS, please specify what exactly ABS pump, ABS module, etc BTW, is it possible to downgrade system to no ABS level?

I have the same problem here.

I have the same problem with my mazda 3 2009, the brake goes all the way down but it brakes good, we replaced the master cylinder, and replaced the brake pads and the brake pedal still has the same issue. I think its something with this model and by the year to.

I have the same problem. Sticky valve within the ABS Control Unit. Brake pedal will have virtually no effect for the first half of travel. The car will slow down but forget it if a squirrel runs out in front of you. Find a wet piece of pavement or large puddle, then drive through it and slam on the brake pedal to the floor. Let the ABS kick in. Repeat a few times. This will cause vibration in the valve and dislodge it. It's worked every time for me. Cheaper than spending $2500 on a $1500 car.