what is wrong with my car?

Thanks, I did that on my way home from work yesterday, when the light was still on, they checked it on their machine and got the same code, nothing else, just the o2 sensor.

My 05 Town and Country is flagging the O2 sensor (replaced) and the intake manifold sensory (also replaced) yet the check engine light won't go off. The codes have been reset several times, and the light comes back one. The engine seems to be bucking, or making like a kick which I feel in the seat. After the intake manifold sensor was replaced, the lights on my dash started flashing. The mechanic whacked my dash and the lights stopped flashing, yet the check engine light stayed one. What pray tell is the issue here? I have to get this resolved soon as my plates are due.

There are more parts to your exhaust system than just an o2 sensor. That being said, it could be something as simple as a vacuum leak (which could be in a line, the engine, heads, head gasket, etc.), to a cross threaded install of the o2 sensor. Ruling these possibilities out, I would have your catalytic converter checked out by a professional exhaust shop with an A+ rating. They will be able to tell you if your CAT is clogged and needs replacement. A decent shop won't recommend this if it's not the problem. The way your vehicle is acting I would suspect either a catalytic converter or a blown head gasket. Either way, it needs to be repaired. If your check engine light is flashing, whacking the dash isn't the solution and I would choose another mechanic. Usually this is a sign of a very serious engine malfunction and has nothing to do with your exhaust....usually a blown head gasket, intake manifold gasket, or something else. I don't mean to frighten you, but it is what it is. Don't rely on any mechanic who tries to solve a problem by whacking a dash. Go to a pro. They might cost a little more, but in the end, it's worth it. Good luck.

The check engine light came on, on my 2003 t&c at about 90,000 miles. I tried so many things that didn't work. It still runs great, and gets around 23 mpg, so I ignored the light. I now have 260,000+ on it and the light is still on. Someone told me if it bothers me to just stick a piece of black tape over, and go!

Never, ever ignore a check engine light. Covering a check engine light is like ignoring a heart attack when the symptoms are saying GO TO A HOSPITAL! Instead, go to a local auto parts store like Advanced Auto Parts or Auto Zone and ask them to check your car for you. This is a free service at both companies. Advanced Auto Parts will even give you a print out at most stores so you can take the read out to your mechanic if necessary. If you're car appears to be running normal however, based on the information you provided, you might have a very basic code called a "Phantom Code" or Generic Code. These usually come up with a bad seal on a gas cap or a change in fuel quality. I would check the seal on your gas cap first. This is the thick rubber O-Ring around your gas cap approximately 3/16th inch in thick and 2 inches in diameter. If this gasket looks grey or black, or it feels brittle or very dry, then it's time to replace your gas cap. This is an inexpensive fix and replacing it will usually solve the problem within an hour of driving after replacement. Keep in mind, most auto parts stores will not clear the check engine light for you, but may offer to show you how to do it. This is to prevent liability on their part, so please, don't take it out on them if they say they can't. If replacing the gas cap doesn't solve the issue and the light continues to stay on, there are two other possibilities with a high mileage vehicle like yours. The first is the EGR Valve. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Re-circulation and relieves pressure from your crank case and therefore helps to reduce emissions in your vehicle. If the gasket wears out on this device, you will experience a check engine light. If the gasket is not the issue, then you will have to have the EGR Valve replaced. I recommend having this done by a competent mechanic or dealership as there is one out of the three mounting bolts which is quite difficult to get to. Without the proper tools, it is nearly impossible without disassembling half of the engine to get to it. You don't want to just mount this with only two bolts...you really need all three. The last issue you could possibly face with this high of mileage is a clogged catalytic converter. This is the most expensive fix out of the three and I recommend having this checked last. This can run in excess of $500 depending on which shop you go to, but might be your only option. Lastly, don't ignore the light. Don't put tape over it to hide it. Really, do get it fixed. You won't be sorry.

I have an 03 Chrysler Town and Country that is reading a code p0601 and it's saying that it's the ecm or tcm??? which on top of that I'm having issues with the transmission like it's stuck into limp mode is having a hard time down shifting from 2nd to 1st and anytime I put it into drive the engine or the transmission is working hard like idling weird and making noises clunking. When the vehicle sits in neutral sounds and runs just fine. Can anyone explain?

When coming up to a stop sign like right before I stopped maybe to 3 miles an hour it's locking up for a Split Second or making a bump shift or something. Could the ecm cause the transmission to do all that?

My mini Van Chrysler have a problem which comes after long hour drive which makes the car to slowly and, make crucking sound.

With it running rough try changing out the ignition core pack...it helped mine

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