97 5.7 vortec won't start

sure your getting fuel?

To the relieve valve I know I am

recheck your firing order if you haven't already.

check your fuel relay too

My advise to anyone reading this old post, that drives these old trucks, like my 1997 chevy silverado k1500 Vortec 5.0 Z71 that has an air conditioning, push button four wheel drive, an 8.5 ten bolt rear differential, a 4L60E transmission and was made in Canada...my advice is... know exactly the same type of information about your truck because it means the difference of actually fixing it or not. And work on the truck yourself. DO NOT let some idiot chrage you thousands of dollars for onnenof the easiest trucks for the DIYer .I'll tell you why, because when you go to buy a.parr from the local auto store these dumb ass kids have created your saved profile and if just ONE time some little stoner put your vehicle in as a 5.7 and it's really a 5.0 ,they're are absolutely a few parts and sensors that may fit and look the same but are not. Know everything mentioned above and save yourself time, energy, confusion and anxiety. And never trust any mechanic. Sure you may trust the mechanic that you spoke with when you took it in and he may have a great deal of erudition and ethics butcher ain't the guy that's handling your car. That guy's the bench mechanic whose earned his dues. He's not the grumpy alcoholic who's taking your wire hanasess off to reach an area of concern and goes for a liquid lunch and comes back and can't remember to replace the the fuse he blew when he didnt disconnect the battery before trying to figure out what plugs back into what. Amd those oil changes you think are convenient. We'll they are a literally mixing old oil they've filtered and cutting with fresh oil. You're probably getting a mix of 5w and 10w, real shady places don't even swap the filter out but sure charge you for it. DO IT YOURSELF. DO YOIR DIFFERENTIAL FLUIDS! DO YOUR TRANSCASE FLUIDS! LUBRICATE YOUR ZURTS EVERYTIME YOU DO YOIR OWN OIL CHANGE . DROP THAT TRANSMISSION PAN AMD PUT IN A NEW FILTER AND PULL OUT THE SELUNOIDS AND MAKE SURE THERE NOT CLOGGED WITH METAL, work smart , siphon the ATF out the dip stick before hand. CHECK YOUR BREAK FLUID, COOLANT FLUID , POWER STEERING. this is simple shit that won't take long once you already done it once and understand it and create a maintenance schedule so you don't have to do all at once and can afford it. Always take a lifet ime warranty on parts. Only use a mechanic for things like alignments , breaks, and the real crazy stuff . Take a picture of things at ech step before you trake them apart. It's notnhard to throw on a disaster cap and rotor. It's literally $35 for parts and an hour of patients and a magnet stick in case you drop a bolt or torque screw. NEVER TRUST A MECHANIC WHO DOESNT EVEN SUGGEST TO CHANGE A SENSOR!. in these older trucks 90% of your performance issues is a simple sensor. All sensors average $100 or cheaper for after market parts. At 280,000 miles you're an idiot to spend triple on an AC Delco. Chances are an after market censor will last you the rest of the lifetime on that vehicle or when you thrown in the towel and sell it to the neighbors kid because he wants to MOD it out like his buddies. Save your money.iys better to spend $500 dollars on six or seven agter market censors that all need each other to work properly for performance and fuel efficiency and correct the actual problem then $300 on an one AC Delco part but but solved nothing. GO GET AN OBD2 SCANNER, do thirty minnow research and get a decent one for less then a hundred bucks. You don't need one thats going to show you things that only a scientist can decifer , you just need the codes and and be able to reset them. Do you really think most of these mechanics can read the an in depth OBD2 CHART? watch videos , watch three or four videos by different posts on YouTube, see the different variables that different people come across and you'll see real fast which posts are totally worth watching and which ones are ridiculous. But even the ridiculous ones might yield some insight on a wire or a censor or a part you were wondering about regarding something else. In the end it's all about fuel to air ratio. On a thirty year old truck I suggest replacing as many sensors as you can yourself . Not only will you learn and see everything about your truck you'll save a lot of money and you just might solve your problem with out taking the suggestion of of someone who never even suggested to change a thirty year old relay or censor but tells you you need a refurbished $2000 or more transmission on top of $2000 labor when in fact it's really not that hard to take out and put in a 4L60E or 4L80 that's completely assembled and ready to go. I've watched old men do it with no lift in less then an hour. Just take care of your sh**. On Friday night throw the tie in the garbage, throw the money suit on the floor, then get up early , strap on a pair and be a fu*** man. Tell the wife or boyfriend to leave you alone and that with the money you're saving, you'll be able to buy them that thing they wanted. OK? Got it? Anybody with any questions about anything , just refer to this post. I love you and good luck, we're all counting on you