96 C1500 4.3 no start no fuel

Hello i'm a "back yard" mechanic, and i have a similar truck that had a similar problem, it would back fire and run terrible and drain the fuel tank in no time. what i found was the TBI gasket had a crack in it and the distributor timing was off by a little, so i changed those two things and it worked better until the tune up which fixed it after that. , so my best suggestion is pull the TBI off of the intake and swap the gasket and adjust the distributor timing (if needed)

almost forgot, "track" the fuel line and make sure there is no holes cracks or stress marks on it because a fault in the fuel line could cause this aswell

Replaced the tbi gasket when I did the spider injectors. Didn't see any gas being shot out from cracks or splits or even a kink in the line. Sidenote: also changed the fuel filter 13 months ago.

O.O its a GM SPIDER OF DEATH why did you not start with that? so new suggestion is get on ebay and find yourself a "full intake gasket kit" and do remember that EVERY o-ring counts so make sure that if you take it apart label the wires, lines and stuff. by what i have seen when i took one apart if there is a crack in any gasket it will freak out and do lots of weird stuff

probably should mention my truck is a 95 which is the year before the gm spider of death

Having similar issues and has gotten to the point of no crank no start. Like you I have been replacing parts and chasing gremlins for about a month now. Here’s a mix of things I plan or at least recently checked for that might help. 1. Negative battery cable turns out is notorious for rotting out inside the black insulation. Basically no way to tell simply wiggling and looking. 2. Part of a wire harness runs down by driver front fender and back to fuel tank. Tends to rub and short on frame. Also check for melted wires on the harness going across the top of engine kinda in front of distributor. (Personal find on that one) 3. Aftermarket stereo or alarm system can interrupt ecm communication. Bad ground/short here screws up all sorts and points at other things as the problem. Also a sensor inside the ignition lock cylinder with fragile connections (bout as thick as spider web) that break and short after time. But I believe that’s only for stock passlock option. Don’t quote me on this last one.