Bleeding the ABS brake system only on 1995 C/K trucks only, Help!!!!!!!!!!
Asked by Kadink Jul 31, 2013 at 10:13 PM about the 1995 Chevrolet C/K 1500 Cheyenne Extended Cab LB 4WD
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
I understand that a very pricey scan tool is necessary when bleeding the brakes on a 1995 silveraro. Well after poking around on the web I read that without the scan tool you have to remove the two small dust covers on the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve body and push the two pins in to get all the air out of it while bleeding the brake system. This was for the 1995 C/K trucks only. then I will get a full and firm brake pedal again. Could someone valadate this and offer any information they would be willing to share. Thanks in advance for any help you provide. kadink (Ron)
P.S. I'm on afixed income and can't the price of the scan tool in order to cycle the BPMV or
pay a dealer because it's takes a while to do the procedure.
20 Answers
migration_judge_roy answered 11 years ago
well with the ABS pressure has to accumulate in the accumulator for a time...do you have ABS? you can afford a 17 dollar OBD-II scan tool-
migration_judge_roy answered 11 years ago
how in the world did you lose hydraulic pressure to the point where the accumulator had lost it's pressure? This I gotta hear~
Owned a 95 k1500, bleed the brakes before. Didnt use scan tool. Truck had abs
Mr judge_roy and Mr andrew page 5E1-54 and page 5E1-55 of the 1995 C/K servie manual explains my situation and page 5E1-62 shows the tool # J 39177 I was referring to. And the scan tool has to have the ability to cycle the BPMV serveral times. Now I didn't mean to make a joke like you think I did, I was just looking for a little help.... I guess I miss dianosed the " CarGurus web sight.... Kadink aka Ron The release of atom power has changed everything except mans way of thinking. The solution to this problem is in the heart of mankind... If only I had known, I should have become a watch maker... " Albert Einstein "
oldfatnbroke answered 10 years ago
You are so smart judge roy, you should have noticed that he was working on a 1995 Silverado which makes your OBII scantool worthless! I don't know how Kadink managed to get air in his system but I did it while replacing the wheel cylinders. Could somebody tell me how to get the air out please? I'm in a similar fix as kadink in that I can't afford to pay to have it done and an OBI scantool is way more expensive than Roy's.
in my 1996 k1500 4by4 u DO NOT PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL,,,u loosen the bleeder then u push the brake pedal down,,tighten bleeder then do agian then do next wheel,,,DO NOT PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL..AND UNLESS YOUR ABS LIGHT IS ON u most likely do not have air in abs,,i can not stress it enough do not pump the brake pedal,,
Hello all i hope this helps anyone who has replaced brake lines on a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 abs system with out a abs scan tool. this worked fo me. i replaced the left + right + both master cylinder brake lines to the abs system under the cab. after replacing said lines. i raised the rear up off the ground. i then filled the master cylinder full. i pumped the pedal a number of times. i used my reverse brake bleeder and reversed both front brakes a bout 6 times. had pressure on pedal. started truck up put in drive both rear wheels spuned. shut engine off. went and reversed bleed back brakes. then restarted truck. put it in drive no spinning wheels. took foot off brake pedal both wheels turned. shut engine off. put rear wheels on lowered the rear back down on to the ground. started truck up brake pedal slight pressure but i have brakes. while holding brake pedal in drive gave gas truck kinda raised up on left side but didn't move any. i drone into town going up hill and down hill truck stooped every time. oh by the way my abs orange light goes off after a few seconds. same with my red brake light when i start the engine. i paid $2400 for my reverse brake bleeder. after doing this job i am sore and tired. but as long as this helps any one who cant afford high dealer or shops then it was worth it. thank you all who likes to do there own repair's.
2000 chevy silverado 1500 4x4 redone all new lines got done started bleeding with truck off get pedal turn truck on pedal goes away bleed brakes with truck on still nothing any answers for this happening
check valve in brake booster replace booster
Hemphill_Baldwin_00 answered 7 years ago
ive got a 95 tahoe k1500. new master cylinder, brake booster looks new, and new brakes hoses. abs light is on... and front brake are engaging without pressing the pedal. any ideas?
Look at floating pins. May be stuck there. ..
wm simmers made my own reverse brake bleeder with a spray bottle from dollar store attached a hose to it , had to reduce hose down to fit bleeder valve, filled spray bottle with brake fluid and pump fluid back to master cylinder and it worked.
How to Bleed GM ABS Brakes by Chris Moore Bleeding the brake system after changing the brakes can be hard on some anti-lock braking systems. The good news is that on some GM vehicles, a scan tool isn't needed to bleed ABS brakes. A scan tool is only needed with a DBC-7 anti-lock braking system, and then only if air entered the ABS modulator during brake service. The GM vehicles using the DBC-7 system include many recent Chevy and Pontiac cars, so check with your manual or dealer to see which braking system your GM vehicle has. Normal Bleeding Open the front bleeder screw on the modulator. There are two screws, open the one at the front. Bleed the brakes by having another person gradually press on the brake pedal until all air is purged and clean fluid flows. Attaching a clear tube to the bleeder valve and placing the other end in a container of fluid helps. Bleed the individual brakes, beginning with the brake farthest from the master cylinder. This is often the right front brake. Bleed the brake on the opposite end next (the left front if you started with the right front). Test the brake pedal after all the brakes are bled. Once you are certain of a firm pedal, drive the vehicle at more than three miles per hour so the controller can automatically reset the system. Stop the vehicle afterward and bleed the rear brakes. Scan Tool Attach a pressure bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir and turn the ignition key to the On position. Pressurize the system to 35 pounds per square inch with the bleeder screws closed. Connect the scan tool and set it to "Automatic Bleed Procedure." Wait one minute for the tool to energize and cycle the ABS solenoids. Bleed each wheel as the scan tool instructs you to. The pump will run and the release valve on each wheel will cycle for one minute. Afterward, the scan tool purges any extra air with one last 20 second cycling of the solenoids. Relieve the pressure at the bleeder connected to the master cylinder and then remove it from the cylinder. Test the pedal's height and feel it to make sure the pedal feels firm and all the air is purged.
Sibony Bleed the individual brakes, ( beginning with the brake farthest from the master cylinder. This is often the right front brake)..... WTH are you talking about, in ALLL my years the RF is NEVER the farthest away the Right Rear would be... this alone makes your explanation bs!
This explanation is not mine. I think youre right. most to begining from rear right brake as a farthest.
Hey. I found how to bleed Abs sistems whithout an expensive scanner. I elevate, jacked, both rear weels. Run it and pressed brake and Abs actuated filling it whith fluid. Other way less convinient is run the car over a claisy road a press the brake pedal in order to actuate de Abs. Weels suffer a little.
Im haveing trouble understanding some of the suggestions for bleeding brakes. And really poor spelling on some. Please correct your comments. As far as the "farthest wheel first". Is it possible they refer to the farthest from the ABS module under the drivers seat. Since that is where the brake lines connect on the 2000 and up chevy trucks and suburbans, yukon,tahoe.
Guru99K1VD answered 4 years ago
SIBONY, what is a “Claisy” Road? This is an honest question, please answer.
Sorry, im Venezuelan. I wanted to mean Claisy road as a off road way. Dusty road. Sleppery road that make the weels slepps.
First you crack all bleeders and let it gravity bleed. Filling the reservoir several times. DO NOT LET IT GO DRY! Then you tighten all bleeders. Then starting @ the right rear wheel you have a helper press the peddle to the floor and hold it. Crack the bleeder, let the air out, then tighten the bleed valve and tell your helper to let the peddle up. Do this until solid stream of fluid comes out. No sputtering of air. It goes: Peddle down, crack bleeder, let air out, tighten bleeder, let peddle up. Do this several times. Until only fluid comes out, no air. Make sure bleeder is tight before they let peddle up. Do not pump the brakes!! It introduces tiny air bubbles into the fluid. Then when you think your done bleeding. Those air bubbles collect at the highest points and create the need to bleed them again. Do not pump! Go right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Do not let the resivior run dry. Any questions? Ps, you only need to bleed them if you have opened up a line to replace a brake caliper or master cylinder, or wheel cylinder.... Nevermind. Don't touch the brakes unless you know 100% what your doing. Not only do you put your life at risk with a 2 ton missile you risk hurting or killing other people. Involuntary manslauter, and the person who tried to tell you how to do it is a accessory. I'm not a lawyer, I'm a mechanic. Don't screw with them unless you absolutely know what your doing.