2001 Chrysler town and country will not start

unplug ecm let sit ten minutes try restart

I unplugged it, should I take the negative side of the gattery cable off before hooking the ecm back up, then putting the neg cable back on.

not nessasary

Try unhooking battery for at least ten minutes then try to start it. If no start then recheck for new list of codes.

ecm disconnection is required to totally restore zero codez

these vehicles are subject to poor conne tions at ecm

I unplugged it for 40 minutes and still getting the same codes, Now what

ok code specifics plz

any codes like torque conveter lock up solenoid voltage high?

The codes are 1164, 0123, 0118, 1598, 1193, these are the only codes listed.

give me a few to reseach them

what I do not understand is it ran good other than the very low idle, I shut it off while it was running, now after installing the new parts is when all these codes appeared and it will not start.

ok walt here are your codes, first I have to ask two things does your van have factory security?,and does the message center / odometer say...... No Bus? codes are 1164 bus fault/no communication,01118is coolant temp sensor,0123 is throttle position sensor,1598 is a/c pressure sw voltage high, 1193 is IAT sensor.

do all the guages all work normally?

What engine do you have? And is it a flex fuel model?

I turn the ignition three times, odometer does not show "no bus", just the codes. I had looked up the codes origionally and do know what each one is, that is why I do not understand what the heck is going on. Is there a code that shows if the coil is bad? I originall thought it could be the alalm system but was told by the dealership that if that was it , it it would not turn over but it turns over good.

Yes, I did notice the engine light was flashing a few times then quit.

I suspect the body control module is no good or needs reprogrammed

I have the 3.8. non flx fuel.

I also thought that is a possibility,the one thing that stumped that theory was it was running very good other than the idling.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-2178.htm -- ok just a thought -- but are you sure plug wires are on in correct order?

body control module controls all lower ecm fuctions and will not let car start if non functional and grounds sensors via ecm. same system sebring has

thus voltage high.codes

I do think so as I changed one at a time. At one point after the replaement of the idle air control control it started and was doing the same low idle so I had reversed one of the wires that could have been in question, it ran but had a terrible mis so I reversed the wires back and it still just had the low idle. That is when I put in the new ignitiuon coil pac, I wonder if the new ignition coil pack went bad when I had tried reversing the plug wires. That seems to be the next step before bringing it to the mechanics, I can try to put the old pac bac on and see shat happens.

Ok that link I sent shows the correct order for the plug wires on the coil. Might want to double check them.

I totally agree with you,Thanks for all the help, I've thrown too much time and money already, so to the shop she goes.

I highly recommend chrysler the reason is they have the DBR scanner to propperly diagnose the problem and the proper corrective proceedure

I agree, it goes tomorrow, you have been very helpful, many thanks

thanks glad I could help h m u when fixed so I can better help the next person

will do

Hey walt any word on your van??

Yes, it turned out to be the main wire harness and the pcm, Chrysler runs the main wire harness on the top of the motor and under the air plenium where the heat makes the wire very brittle, when I was changing the spark plugs and the spark plug wires the main wires for the injectors must have been moved and they cracked causing a short which in turn shorted out the pcm, this is what I was told by the dealership. They repaired it and it cost me $1100.00 and the idle is still rough, so I was told by them that the motor mounts is what is causing the vibration I was feeling, not the idle as it is now and was where it was supossed to be so I cost myself a lot of money because I didn't want to put out the $99.00 they charge for a diagnosis. If anyone is not sure and I mean sure of the problem my advice to others is pay the cost of a diagnosis, it will save you money in the end.

Thanks for sharing that w me

For posterity... '02 Grand Caravan, 3.3L, non-EGR, w/ security. Van ran fine until work was done (replaced cracked heads). The harness (located near the coil) that goes to the injectors & the MAP came off its mounting point (shared w/ spark plug wire holder) and got too hot near the exhaust crossover. Most of the insulation was burned off of all 10 wires that run through the inline connector (C102 in the wiring diagram). However, didn't get a short until the harness had been moved and then replaced back in position upon completion of the head job. First time trying to fire it up the SENS_GND signal shorted to the 12V wire from the ASD relay and blew the PCM. I was measuring over ~3.55V on the SENS_GND wire when connected to both the PCM and all the various sensors it goes to (indicative of a floating ground being pulled up through the sensors), and when I snipped the SENS_GND signal near the PCM (pin 43 on Connector 2), thus isolating it from everything else but the PCM, I measured over 1V on the PCM side and about 6.6V on the sensor side. This SENS_GND is a ground and is supposed to be at 0V, not over 1V. Replaced the reprogrammed PCM (flashed with the VIN & mileage) and the van started right up. Had to re-learn all its trim tables, but this was the fix. So, for anyone's van with similar symptoms, I'd check the wiring harness near the coil that goes to the MAP (on top of the intake manifold) and fuel injectors. If melted, tape the wires with electrical tape first, then measure the voltage out of pin 43 on Connector 2 (bottom connector on PCM) and look for higher than ~200mV with the key on. The wire can be back-probed with a paper clip for the measurement as the PCM connectors need to be plugged in to get the right reading. Just slide the paper clip along the BLU/GRN wire into the back of the connector, then measure voltage between that clip and battery ground. Hope this helps someone else in the future as this seems to be a common problem, yet very confusing to diagnose and repair. Also, if you do end up needing a new PCM, you could pay a dealer over $1k. OR... It's only 3 bolts that hold it in (all 10mm), plus 3 other screws to remove the headlight to get access to the third mounting bolt on the PCM. 6 total. Be sure to remove the negative battery cable before replacing the PCM. Re-programmed units can be found on e-bay for under $200; You just send them your VIN & mileage and they send you a remanufactured PCM. I searched under the part # 04727423AF for mine and found several to choose from. Total cost if you can disconnect the battery and remove & re-install the 6 bolts/screws yourself should be under $200, depending on what you find available on e-bay. Best of luck to anyone else with this problem! :)

I'm having an issue as well, my brother replaced all of my motor mounts and the very next morning I started having start issues. They rapidly progressed and I now have a van that won't start- The security light stays on when I try to start it but all other lights and gauges work. When the van starts it only stays started for a minute and then dies, blowing the fuel pump fuse every time. Resetting it by locking/unlocking doors several times after unhooking battery for 30 minutes sometimes makes it start back up but it will die again within minutes. Dealership says I need to buy a PCM before they can fully diagnose the issues but that is 1100.00!

Try changing the starter.

Blowing fuses results in a short to ground (power touching chassis before getting to the user (fuel pump in your case)). The above discussion about heat and wiring harnesses makes complete sense. Before anyone replaces a PCM, all other troubleshooting methods should have occurred. And PLEASE disconnect your negative battery cable BEFORE touching any of the wires.