2005 LR3
Asked by Joe Nov 24, 2019 at 01:31 AM about the 2005 Land Rover LR3 SE
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
So, I put the battery on a slow charge in my garage, did ok for the week. Now, tonight, it stalls/freezes in intersection, no power, can't shift gear to neutral to enable rolling out of traffic. Call AAA, they send a flatbed, wheels frozen, had to gently drag onto flatbed. Have it towed back to my house, it was hell trying to get it off flatbed, finally brought another vehicle around to boost the battery, got it running for gears to engage and shift to neutral, so we were able to roll it off flatbed. WTF? I've never owned a vehicle that you can't shift into neutral when power is down. Is this normal for Land Rover and if so, WHY? Isn't this the Queen's transport, haven't we landed on the moon?
8 Answers
This is either a dying battery or a shot alternator. I'm going to say 80% alternator. LR has a ton of electronics and passive security on the vehicle that need it to be powered in order for them to work. A quick jump box assist will allow everything to work. Unfortunately it is just a part of the vehicle. If its any consultation, BMW and Benz run into the same exact issues when a battery is dead, due to fully electronic transmissions.
Thanks Teego, no it's not any consolation for a poor man who thought he was getting a good deal from a friend. :) Also, this year model was when Ford owned LR and expected more quality. I have it on a slow charge for the next 8 hours, hope to see major recovery, if not, this guy's going on the market.
Go buy a volt meter from harbor freight for 2$ if you do not own one. Check voltage DCV20 at the battery prior to start with the charger off it. It should read between 12.2 and 12.5v prior to starting. Then start the vehicle, and test the polls of the battery again (should now read 13.4-13.6v). If it does not read in the 13's while it is running, then the alternator is shot, but the car is verymuch salvageable. Just a 300$ repair bill part included (as long as you are not doing dealership fixes, which is 900ish). Hope this helps, And it really is easy to diagnose.
So your selling the vehicle because of a weak battery? If the battery is older than 4 or 5 years old, it won't hold a charge long enough to operate properly no matter how long you have it hook to a charger. Have the battery properly load tested at an auto parts store.
Determined battery is about 3 y/o and is good according to 2 different Auto Zone tests, fingers point toward alternator? I'm online now looking for one, any suggestions? I see Bosch, Denso , SKP, API and Replacement? New vs remanufactured? Thanks.
Thanks again, Teego. I've been really busy and just parked it for last 2 weeks, now have a break and will repair. Battery is charged, it does start and drives, but won't take it beyond parking lot for fear of it freezing again. So, I've found 2 garages that will install,(not dealer) and I can either provide alternator or let them provide. Do you recommend I replace with a new O/E (Denson,Bosch) or is there a better one now that will work? Both garages charge about $270 for labor, part is $200++ Thanks for your help.
Id def go with a Bosch alternator. 250+ is labor at 75-90 hr I take it. I was going to say "Maybe 175 atm" but I don't charge what shops do. So pick the shop you feel comfy with or see if you have any mobile mechanics around. A lot of mobile guys charge less and do quality work (because they want a new customer). If you are on FB, you can usually check the "Marketplace" for mechanics. Id also say that on the level of difficulty for that alt, you might be pushing a 5-6. Its not one of the back of the motor, under exhaust, like some other crazy ones are. Hope this helps out Joe. Good Luck.
Hey Teego, hope this query finds you safe and healthy in these uncertain times. Now, my rear hatch will not open, I hear the mechanics when I push the dash or remote to open, but nothing. Whatcha got? Best regards, Joe
