AT Temp light, ABS, Traction and Check Engine Light

Ten years of dirty ATF have indeed gummed up your 4EAT tranny. But the recurrent CEL is probably something else. Scan it and report back.

I scanned it, came back PO741, C0045 and 26(air bag) . It happened again today, all the lights came on; ABS, Traction, AT temp light, CEL and airbag light. Car runs fine, no problems. Sometimes I can turn it off...no lights and then all the light show up again or only the ABS and Traction Light. So very strange. Thanks

I also have a 2008 Impreza with the 2.5i engine, and I am currently experiencing the exact symptoms you described here: ABS + traction control lights coming on periodically on longer trips, and now the AT Oil Temp light and check engine light came on today (DTC P0700). Have you figured out what the problem is and gotten it fixed? Only ideas I've come up with so far are the trans fluid (which apparently didn't fix it for you), a wheel speed sensor, or the brake pedal or steering angle sensor (apparently those affect the traction control and ABS systems as well), but I'd like to narrow it down so I don't bother replacing things that aren't broken.

Well, indeed start with draining and refilling the trans with 3.75 qts ATF. If CEL and/or AT lights come on have them read...especially the AT. If you need a new valve body simply chase a used whole 4EAT and have it swapped in. Rebuilding a 4EAT is notoriously imprudent.

I also discovered a pending P0741 (Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off) this morning, and I'm trying to figure out the most likely cause. (Fluid, solenoid, sensor, other electrical issue?) I changed the fluid a year or so ago (not OEM, but Castrol TransMax Import/Multivehicle was the closest thing I could get my hands on). TheSubaruGuruBoston Why would replacing the valve body be necessary? Is it impractical to get to the solenoid otherwise?

My 2013 Impreza just started doing this, also. Any solution found? The dealer wants to replace the valve body which will cost me $1800. My steering wheel paddles also don't work currently. Other codes displayed: P0700 (Request automatic transmission MIL on), P1578 (meter failure), P2764 (Lock up Duty Solenoid circuit low), C1422 (VDC Interruption for engine convenience), C1431 (automatic transmission control module fault - current fault, history fail), C1531 (Stop light switch off malfunction, history fault), B1650 (Occupant classification system malfunction), B1101 (battery power supply circuit malfunction)

My guess is the valve body would need to be replaced (for my car at least), but I decided it's time to get rid of it instead of paying for transmission work, since it has almost 200k miles and the A/C stopped working recently (clutch pulley failure) and it has the infamous head gasket leak (adding 1/2qt of coolant every week or two) and the power steering pump is probably in its last days. Going to trade it in for a Honda CR-V (we needed a little bigger vehicle anyway). Sounds like you might have some other issues going on, but I would test the battery first, since that can mess with sensors if the voltage is low.

In both cases with the CVT find an experienced indy wrench to swap the valve bodies. These modern Japanese-produced Imps and Foresters simply have more failures than the Indiana-produced Legs and OBs that have more robust drivelines.

I have this same problem today, mine is a 2014 XV Crosstrek. P0700 and P2764

I replaced and checked a few things that were recommended to me here and from a friend. I ended up bringing it to a trans shop and was told the torque controller clutch solenoid was bad, and that this part cannot be replaced by itself... I would need to purchase a new valve body for $1,000. I dropped it off to another transmission shop for a second opinion.

Torque converter * (not controller)

Your CVT will have to be dropped from the chassis, opened up to replace the TC. It'll probably cost in the $1.5k range. Other option is to buy a used CVT and swap it in for about the same cost, as some wrenches just shouldn't be cutting open trannies.

Thank you for all the feedback! I brought it to the dealership and they replaced the transmission valve body in about a half a day and it cost $1580ish. It's working great now!

Ta dah!

The solution is disconnecting the battery. Wait five minutes after disconnecting it. Then connect it again to reset the computer. I done this today and worked. I am so happy

GuruC87ML That's not a solution, it's a bandaid. That only resets the computer so the light will stay off for a while - the underlying problem with the transmission (or maybe a sensor) is still there, and the light will probably come back on within a month or two, depending what triggered it.

I have 2010 Subaru liberty. My engine light. And cruise control light and at oil temp light and traction control light and braking light. Is on help to solve it

Subaru Outback 2010 2.5L - symptoms: AT Oil temp, Check engine, Traction control, braking lin, and cruise control blinking. Diagnostic: CVT solenoids compete body replace and gear oil I'm now 1700$ poorer.

2016 Forrester here and had this happen today. Everyone here seems to have an older vehicle, any chance since mine is so young it would be covered and I won't be out $1-2k?

sorry

My 09 Forester at 109K miles has a traction light and the AT OIL temp lights flashing couple of times when I come to a stop at a stop sign or a red light and the car unusually vibrates during this. I called my mechanic I am going to drop it off for scanning tomorrow but reading this red hair looks like Subaru owners had or having this problem. This is my third Subaru last 16 years and has been the least reliable of all.

CVT or 4EAT? I forget what '09 F's have.

Subaru Impreza 2009 here. Cycle through the At oil temp light and the traction, cruise and check engine light. We just got this...are these cars GOOD cars? Did we make a poor choice?

Who knows? Chase the CEL first, and inspect for HG leaks to see if this 10yr old motor has been resealed yet. Change ATF immediately to assure the trans is clean before chasing 4EAT issues, as many times poor shifting or "crabbing" around corners can be remedied with fresh fluid and a tube of TransX additive. Good luck.

Update -- Mine turned out to be the steering tilt sensor. Fixed that for ~$450. Then it happened again two weeks later. I knew something wasn't right because it just wasn't shifting well at all. I've had two cars with this type of transmission over the last twelve years and knew that if I could constantly feel it that something was wrong. This time there was a leak in the transmission. Thankfully, as a 2016 it was still under warranty. I thought that was the end of it, but I think there's still something wrong with the transmission since it got jerky again yesterday. If it keeps up, I have a hunch I'll be giving another update!

Lighthouse: Had a '13 Imp with bad steering angle sensor...total PITA. Never had similar problem with Indiana-produced Legs and OBs. Doubt that this steering wheel component error screws up the CVT, however. Not sure if '16 Imp/CT/For has Gen 2 CVT or the older one.

I had the same problem, when i changed my wheel bearing to after market one, but after struggling with it for a week, i bought genuine wheel bearing fom subaru dealership and all the codes was gone and it work perfectly fine now Thanls

Huh? You must've put the wrong size bearing. Subaru OE and aftermarket come from the same factories in Asia.

Same thing happening to me on my 2013 Crosstrek Premium. AT OIL TEMP flashing and solid traction, ABS and incline illuminated. I bought it used back in January but thankfully this should be covered by the warranty.

My Subaru Tribeca 2008 got lights on recently for a few times. the 1st time happened right after the car with the bad condition for accelerating at lower speed (around 5 km/hr.)- the car hesitated when gassing & meanwhile some lights are on such as CE, skid, cruise, ABS. The dealer told that I needed to update the program for transmission, then after that, all the warning lights are out. But about 10 days later, the AT oil temperature light was blinking, and CE,cruise & skid lights were on again. Then the dealer told me that AT fluid needs to be changed. But, AT oil temperature, CE, skid & cruise lights are on again right after the transmission is powered flushed. Then the dealer told me that the whole transmission needs to be replaced. Is it true? - Anne

Possibly. Get another pair of eyes and brains on this one.

This happened to my 2013 crosstrek yesterday. Traction control, hill assist, ABS, check engine and at oil temp light flashing at me...all seems to be running fine but I need to know what needs done to fix this as I have a small child and need this to be a reliable vehicle. Has anyone found for sure if changing the valve body has cured this?

Disconnect battery for an hour, clean the terminals while they're off, and reattach. Restart engine. If CEL recurs scan it and report back or Google it for diagnosis.

I had the same issue, my front wheel bearing assembly was bad, i replaced it with the genuine subaru part, all the lights was gone and it was working perfectly fine.

Huh? FWB wear does NOT trip a CEL; maybe you had a concomitant issue.

P0700 and P2763 is what the scanner throws

These are trans codes. I'd clear them and drive normally, hoping they don't recur. But once they do I'd chase a deeper diagnostic by Subaru as you may need a torque converter...and they may "participate" in the repair if you beg corporate SOA in NJ.

Oh and also my check engine light came on with my cruise control indicator light flashing. Just looking in the manual it says if that happens to avoid high speeds and take it to be inspected at the dealership. Any ideas what that could be?

Scan it.

Hello, this has and is happening in my 2014 forester. I had the battery replaced by a Subaru dealer this week. It happened three times and now after the battery replacement. I’m a commuter and I drive to the mountains often so I’m disappointed to see that it’s hard to fix. My car drives normal while the light is blinking. Re for next best steps?

Redux: SCAN IT!

Same with our 2014 Forester. Took it to a dealer in Orlando. They told us it was something with a warranty extension, and it’s getting fixed right now. I’m not sure what the problem was.

Maybe you can ask them?

I have a 2014 Subaru Impreza, 120k miles. Was initially told by the dealer that these lights coming on were a result of the brake light recall. Had it fixed and error codes were off for a full day. Check Engine, AT OIL temp (flashing), ABS, donwhill assist and traction control lights are on. Any ideas what this might be?

Disconnect battery for an hour to reboot. If still showing CEL scan it!

I have a 2017 Forester XT and the following light went on ... Traction control, hill assist, ABS and AT oil temp light flashing. It all started yesterday when my wife started the car to go to work. Will disconnect the battery and if it does not reset will make an appointment with dealer. Will post dealer findings.

Probably quicker to just scan the ECM for a CEL code first.

I have the same problem with my Subaru Tribeca 2008, but the solution is to change the wheel bearing and everything will be fine.

That's total uncorrelated coincidence!

Hi, took vehicle to dealer and they picked up RF speed sensor faulty. Thanks to everyone for your input.

Just happened to me in a 2013 Impreza. Just crossed 100k a week ago. At temp flashing and all the others solid. Removing battery cables didn't help. Just had trans fluid replaced 3k miles ago...

CEL code?

Hi Mike ..... My speed sensor was replaced and all good again. Before i took to Subaru, i was told it is common problem of the speed sensors on wheels or transmission and so it was. It is best to have it checked and find CEL code. Hope yours get sorted soon.

What's the CEL code?

P2764 and p0700 bunch of transmission codes... taking to shop now. Will update later.

P2764 is flagged when a CVT valve body solenoid partially shorts out (drops resistance). As parts aren't available separately you have to replace the entire valve body as a single unit. It's a messy job as you have to clean carefully and reseal the bottom pan. Should only take an hour or two, plus rebooting with an official Subaru scan tool afterwards.

Now see that you had CVT f replaced 3k ago. Hmmm....check level by draining and refilling carefully, then clear the code. If it recurs maybe you DO need a new valve body.

All signs pointing to the valve body... 450 miles past the 100k mark too, so no warranty. One thing I learned is the pre-2013 valve bodies are easily accessible from the bottom of the trans which is convenient for diy-ers. 2013+ are on the top which makes it a little tougher. I may still attempt. It will depend on whether the dealer will cut me some slack or not.

Mike, Imps CVTs differ from Leg/OBs, so yes the job is harder. It's not the dealer you have to negotiate with, it's SOA in NJ. You must call them and argue hard for "goodwill". They'll then give you an ID to use at any Subie dealer to perform the repair. Good luck. Ern TSG/B

Update: Per TSGB's recommendation, we contacted SOA who gave us a claim number and told us to take the car to the dealership. The dealership confirmed the issue was the valve body (code 2764). I expected to have to share some of the financial burden with SOA since the car had about 100,450 miles (just outside of the extended warranty). To my surprise, the dealer responded saying the car had an extended warranty to 150k miles, and the repair would be covered in full. Wife and I happy-danced in the living room for a few minutes. Candidly, I do not know how this car has an extended warranty to 150k miles. We did not purchase any extended warranty options when we bought the car (new). I can't explain it, but I wasn't going to argue with them. Maybe when we called SOA they extended the warranty attached to our VIN by 50k since we were just outside of the 100k mark?? I guess I'll never know. Either way, thank you TSGB for helping us navigate this. Your rec to cal SOA was very helpful! Good luck all!

You're most welcome, and happy holidays. The reason SOA accepted your claim is that the valve body is technically part of the PZEV system, the components of which are covered by federal 10yr/150k wty. Unfortunately my daughter's '13 OB Ltd with internal CVT noise is only covered to 100k by "good"(?) will. Ya win some...you lose some....

Mike, when you called SOA what did you tell them exactly? I’m ALL these exact issues on my 13’ cross trek. This all started after the brake light recall. My car didn’t start so I thought battery was dead but dealer said my battery was “okay” and due to jumping my car it reset the codes so nothing came up in scanner. (That was 2 weeks ago) My ext 100k warranty exp in Feb of 2019 but I only have 98k. I didn’t extend my warranty bc I thought it was up to 100k but I was stood corrected last dealership visit. I go to dealership tomorrow early morning and I’m nervous about having to dish up cash.

Eileen, your codes ARE stored in memory. But an unhappy valve body will throw a code soon, and should be covered by SOA. So call them NOW to get on record for a P2764. They should tell you to get to a dealer when the code flashes again to verify. Early CrossTreks are indeed problematic... Good luck. Ern TSG/Boston

Mike can you comment on what state you're located in? I think the extended PZEV warranty only covers some states.

Ken, CA. Had the car serviced at Livermore Subaru. I'd think since it sounds like a Federal requirement, it wouldn't matter what state though. Eileen, Mine is also a '13. I don't know why it would be any different for yours unless the Crosstrek isn't a PZEV. My wife called SOA and sold them a sad story (I'm not sure what exactly she said though. She's just really good at selling sad stories.). But again, that may have had no impact if the Valvebody was warranted until 150k miles. I'd think if you're under 100k, the extended warrantee would apply. When I read my extended warrantee paperwork, that's what it stated.

Yup.

Same thing. Abs, incline, hot oil temp, skid. began to come on When I put the car in drive to shift. I went to dealer with all the lights on. Ended up being some sort of valve or sensor in the middle of the transmission that tells the car when to shift. He said it's like the brain of the transmission. Which is why when I put the car in Drive to shift it would trigger and the lights would go on. $1,500 to fix because of all the parts that need to be moved. Most of it is labor.

Yeah, you needed a valve body as a solenoid failed. 50% is part cost. Good luck.

So soon after this post I took it in and they scanned my cross trek, all the lights were still on. They did indeed confirm it was all those things y’all said. I can’t find my paperwork to give y’all the exacts but rep told me I was still under warranty and they replaced my ENTIRE transmission!

There ya go.

Just bought my first Subaru used last week. Driving today, same issues as above, all the different safety lights came on, but car was runnig fine? Just under 100k miles. I didnt purchase a warrenty thoguh with the used car. Taking it to get codes read in morning. I live in Vegas and am currently in LA on buisness. Am I able to drive the car? Need to drive 15-20 miles here in LA . What about driving back home to Vegas? (200 miles? ) This is a 2013 cross trek

You'll most probably be ok.

CEL codes?

I have a 2014 Subaru Forester. Recently just had both rear wheel bearings replaced. Two days later at oil temp is flashing, ABS, traction, hill (incline) start lights all come on. Why would this issue come up right after the rear wheel bearings were replaced if the solenoid sensor inside the transmission is the issue?

Check that rear ABS sensors are correctly plugged back in, as they were removed to replace the bearing/hub assemblies.

Would the rear ABS sensor not plugged in correctly trigger all four dashboard lights to come on too?

Maybe. Certainly if the lower electric parking brake connector wasn't pushed all the way on you'll see a Christmas tree on the dash! So check those lower plugs in the rear first.

I will be taking the car back to the mechanic tomorrow morning. He said he will take apart the wheel bearings and look at it again to double check it was installed properly. He initially took a scan of the codes and he mentioned something about one of the solenoid inside the transmission going bad. But before we go that route of replacing the solenoid, he wants to make sure the wheels bearings are on it properly. I will update.

CVT solenoids are hard-wired in the valve body, which is an $800 part, requiring about two hours to replace. So clear the codes and proceed as necessary. Report back. Ern

I dropped my 2014 Subaru Forester off to mechanic this morning. He replaced the two rear wheel bearings with genuine Subaru parts. Same ABS, traction, AT OIL TEMO, incline assist lights came on after replacing wheel bearings. He wanted me to take car to Subaru to confirm it's the valve solenoids inside the transmission. I told him, to save time he should just ordered the pasrts from e-bay ($280) and fix it. Next week he will replaced the valve solenoid and I will find out finally if it solve the problem or not.

Are you sure he wants to drop the valve body and hardwire the solenoids? Subaru gets big bucks for OE wheel bearings...ouch! Keep in touch. Ern

Btw, the code he got is P0971. Looks like #2 solenoid inside the transmission?

Yup...hardwired in the valve body.

So it's probably easier if he replaces the whole valve body then?

Absolutely! Just a bunch of small bolts and a couple of connectors. I'm not familiar with the extrication and swapping process for the errant soilenoid(s). If it's just careful soldering then I'd try it, some some wrenches don't want to go near a soldering iron, so won;'t guarantee the job. It'd be a pain in the ass to swap both solenoids and have the assy not work, eh?!

Ok, an update on my car"a repair. Mechanic ordered the separate selonoids but he said he will,not be able to replace them individually. So he had to order a transmission with the valve body from e-bay. This afternoon he called me and said he's done swapping out the car valve body. All the lights are off. Since my car is out of warranty, this is coming out of my pocket. Very disappointed to have this big of a problem already for this model year. I cannot and will not recommend this car brand to anyone.

I know, I know...always an Achilles heel. First the bad timing belts in the late 80s, then oil leaks in the 90s, bad 2.5i DOHC '95-99, then head gaskets in the noughts, and now frail CVTs. I'm hoping the latter are better in 2015-2019 era Legs/OBs, but it's always a PITA to have followed cost-cutting frailties over the decades. (Disclaimer: I sell 2016-2019 Legs/OBs in Boston)

That stinks, but consider this, after we went through repairs as documented above, car was running like a top. On 4/1 my wife was t-boned by a woman running a red light thru an intersection. Car was destroyed... she walked away unscathed. All air bags deployed, and the Subaru did it’s Subaru thing and helped protect it’s occupants. We buy cars because they are reliable, economical and safe. This may not be the most reliable car, but I feel more comfortable putting my family in a Subaru now that I’ve seen it in action. This is the main reason why our next family car will be another soob. :)

Let me start by discriminating reliability from durability. Subarus have been extremely reliable for many generations, sourcing initially their electrical parts through Nissan's Asian family trees, and now Toyota's. The problem has been the under-engineering of major driveline components, as outlined above. One of the attractions throughout, however, is that Subarus' unibody structures have been among the strongest in industry, since 1990, with the advent of the first Legacy. I've had many clients return to me after totaling theirs, grateful to not have been hurt, and simply wanting to erase history with a subsequent, perhaps newer version. This robust structural integrity has of course been very attractive in northern states' slippery winters. Do I wish that they'd been as bullet- proof as the best Infinitys and Lexuses? Sure, but there's always been a value play that forced Subaru to price their AWD vehicles closer to front wheel drive Toyotas, Hondas et al. Now the playing fields are leveled somewhat, as the Koreans improve their offerings. Ern TSG/B

I'm wondering if the Subaru Ascent has any of these issues as with the Forester, Outbacks, etc. The only reason I got the Forester was its AWD system for winter driving.

I will let you know. We just picked up an Ascent yesterday! 0% financing and 5.8k under msrp. Hopefully issues have been worked out.

I'm also wondering if my 2014 Forester with 136,000 miles that I've just had the valve body replaced by an independent shop be reimbursed by SOA?

Hi Tony. SOA stopped supporting CVT replacement in summer 2018 except if less than 100k. I'd hammer them for "goodwill participation" for the repair. I suspect they'll pay for half of it ($800-1k). The Ascent is just a big Outback. I think it's grown into its size visually, but am disappointed that Toyoburu has once again offered a super-soft ride at the expense of body control and handling. It may not be a bad choice as a 3-row, but of course we have no idea if the new 2.4t's grunt will rip up the CVTs over time. Ern

Thanks for your input. Im glad I'm not alone with my car issues

I had to make an account just to thank you guys for the info on this thread. I had the same issue pop up on my 2013 impreza last weekend and found this thread while trying to diagnose the issue. Took it to the dealership and they confirmed that it was the valve body and quoted me $1,500 to get it fixed. Questioned the PZEV warranty that Mike took advantage of, the service manager looked into it and confirmed that I qualified, I just had to update my vehicle's information with SOA. Thank you all for the help! You just saved me $1,500!

Glad to be of help. Enjoy, and stay safe. Ern

Does the PZEV warranty only apply in certain states? Taking my car in tomorrow for similar problem and hoping not to drop $1.5k.

PZEV is emissions related, discrete from the extended warranty on the motor and CVT.

2010 Forester, 145k miles. CEL, cruise, and traction control lights have been coming on and off for a couple years, and we recently got a P0420 code out of it. We were about to take it in for a new catalytic converter (O2 sensors were already replaced), and then my wife took it on a 500 mile trip, and towards the end the AT Oil Temp and ABS lights started flashing. She pulled over, got it towed to a dealership, and they found a P0741 code and are saying the whole transmission needs replacing. Since it makes more sense to just buy a new car at this point, she is currently trying to drive it home, but at a reduced speed since it seems to keep the light off for awhile if she keeps it at 55 or less, but she has to keep stopping when the light comes on. She says the car seems to be driving just fine, but she's worried that if she ignores the light it'll seize up and then really be screwed. If the tranny seems to be working normally, can the light be ignored? At the rate she's going, she won't be home until the wee hours tonight, and it's not even 6 pm. Please advise!

When my impreza was having the issue I drove it between shops 10-15 miles, and it did not feel normal. If yours is driving like normal, maybe its okay. Better safe than sorry tho.

PO741 means in this case a bad solenoid in the torque converter assy, which is a $700 part that takes 2hrs to swap. You can drive in the meantime. Eventually you'll start stalling at stops. It's probably worth the $1k to get this fixed, unless you're about to spend bucks on tires, brakes, exhaust etc. Note that your front cat conv may be covered under the 10yr/150k federal emissions warranty. PO420's are endemic. Most folks reset the ECM, drive for awhile, get their emissions sticker, and ignore it until next time. The emissions are NOT higher unless the cat has actually failed...which is rare. The problem is more too-tight ECM calibration for richer winter fuel used in the salt belt. (Disclaimer: I sell 2016-2018 OBs in the Boston area if it's time for a replacement.)

Thanks for your response!!! So she did make it home, and once she got out of the mountains, she was able to go normal highway speeds without setting off the light. I just talked to the local dealership and they said there’s no such thing as a 150k emissions warranty (8 year 80k is the max). He also said they have no way of knowing if its the solenoid or the transmission without taking the whole thing apart which will cost $700-800 just for the diagnosis. I kind of feel like I’m getting the runaround and I’m not sure what to do. If all I can expect out of a Subaru is <150k, then this will be not just the first, but also the last time I ever buy one. That’s pitiful.

I have a 2012 Impreza with 145k. The AT oil temp light flashes after about 3 minutes of driving. All the other lights stay on consistently (Cruise Control, ABS, Check Engine, and the Cruise Control). Once the AT oil temp lights come on, the transmission seems to either lag or slip when shifting. I took it to a nearby shop and they used a code reader and I got the codes P2764, P0700, P2746, and P2750. I made an appointment with my car at the Lee's Summit MO Subaru dealership near me. I was super excited when I bought this car because the way it drove was immaculate but now I am regretting my decision. So from what I read in this post, the problem is probably the valve body? If not, any thoughts as to what else might be the problem.

Nope. It's either the valve body's solenoid ($1k) or the entire CVT ($2k used). Sorry.

Thank you Mark

I think you mean Ernie.

My apologies Ernie!

I want to thank you for this thread- I have a 2012 automatic Impreza sport Wagon 2.0 with 127k miles. A few weeks ago I began experiencing all the problems listed here including ABS, traction control, AT oil temp, and check engine lights on dash, shifting issues between 20-30mph, as well as some stalling. I took it several places to get checked out and heard different things, the most common of which was "You have a bad solenoid and need a whole new valve body". I was quoted $1700 and encouraged to get it fixed now, or risk making things worse. The independent transmission specialist told me he does two of these a month. The codes it was throwing were C1422 and C1431. I explored contacting SOA and appealing to their sense of goodwill. Rick (Customer service) at SOA and I played email and phone tag for about a week, then finally told me that it was outside the 100k warranty, but to take it into the dealership and 'We'll see what we can do'. I didn't ask for details beyond that and just focused on being grateful and emphasizing our family's commitment to Subies (we have three). Rick even offered to reimburse me for a tow should I stall on the way to the dealership (over an hour away) and I took that as a sign they were willing to help. I was *not* pushy. They got it in, looked at it, and let me know that yes it needs a new valve body. They reiterated that it was outside of the 100k, but SOA said they'd pay for 50% of the repair, and estimated it at $700 less than the transmission specialist (before the discount! I'm planning to pay $500, as opposed to $1700). I am relieved, and saved so much money by exercising this option. Not to mention, Subaru won me over with their customer service. Long story short- take the extra time to explore an appeal to SOA. It worked out immensely in my favor, despite the odds, and I appreciate the information being collected and shared here. Also, Elliot's Advocacy Help Forums has a list of contacts at SOA I advise you to work your way through until you get the answer you want. Stay patient and kind. Thank you!

Sounds like SOA's realizing that customer service is important. Getting extended warranty coverage for egregious meager engineering failures (head gaskets and now CVTs) is infamously difficult. That they're dodging recall bullets should be balanced with generous responses to customers' pleas for components that just should not be failing in midlife. These days, a 100k max "extended" warranty is increasingly meaningless...and indeed very stingy. There will be an avalanche (if not already) of failed CVT. Sigh...it's always something with them. Story of my automotive life....(Disclaimer: I sell 2016+ OBs/Legacys in the Boston area, praying their newer CVTs prove to be more durable. Si far so good...but it's early yet.)

@Anna did you email SOA for the appeal or spoke to an customer rep? I called SOA and talked to a rep but he insisted that my car is out of the 100k extended warranty, 109k, and was not willing to help out in any way. How did you get your dealership to contact SOA to have them pay for 50% of the cost? Did you pay the dealership the diagnose fee and have them contact SOA or SOA gave you a code for the discount? I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza, 109k miles. I have same symptoms as everyone here and would like to get this fixed soon. Thank you!!

@Dustinsubie I emailed, and then they called me. Here is a copy of the email I received from Rick Pozniak, who responded both by email and then phone after I reached out via email to various folks but never heard back. I suggest emailing him kindly with the information requested and being as positive and friendly as possible. You will have to have taken it to a Subaru dealership FIRST to have them confirm the codes. Remember names. Rick offered to touch base with the dealership I go to. Be friendly and positive with those folks, too. Build goodwill. Then connect the dots and say things like, whatever you can do to help me would be SO appreciated. I love Subaru, my family all has them, blah blah blah. I'm unemployed, times are hard, etc. Plead your case for goodwill! And good luck. Come back here and let us know. Dear Anna, Please accept this e-mail to both confirm receipt of your letter to our Executive Offices and also to introduce myself as the Supervisor responsible for your Service Request. As your schedule allows, can you please let me know the VIN # of your vehicle. its mileage, if you have taken your vehicle to an Authorized Subaru Retailer and the name of that Retailer. You are welcome to either e-mail or call me directly. Sincerely, Rick Pozniak Subaru of America, Inc. Customer/Dealer Services Department 1-800-SUBARU3 (1-800-782-2783) 856-438-2409 (direct)

Also, update on my first post: The dealership replaced my valve body for half price ($500), lights on dash went off... for about a day. Then came back on. Took it back to have them run the codes, waited 3 hours in the waiting area with my dogs (they were super busy... apparently). They charged me $90 diagnostic to tell me there were spider webs in my evap sensor and they couldn't fix it today!!! So, I take it to my neighborhood mech and have him clean the sensor for $60. Lights go off. Come back on again. He runs another diagnostic (for free!) and tells me there is a 2nd evap sensor, but located under the rear suspension on or near the gas tank (2012 Impreza Wagon), and the part is cheap but the job will take three hours. ?!?!?!?!? I've been driving it with the lights on, willfully shoving down the Blinking Light Anxiety for over a month now.

Thank you Anna! I will follow your process and hopefully SOA will come through and give me a 50% discount too. It's so unfair for us subaru owners to have to fork out the money for these repairs when it's obviously their engineering fault. This is a common problem among owners that only experience AFTER 100k, which beyond their extended warranty. This issue is should definitely be a recall issue. Anyway, hopefully they realize and come through with the 50% discount, the least they can do.

@Anna I am contacting SOA this week but I couldn't find the email of the person you were in contact with at SOA, Rick. Are you able to email me his contact email so I can start the email thread with him? dustdle@gmail.com. Much appreciated. Thank you!

I have a 2009 Subaru Legacy 2.5 I automatic and the when my car drives for 20 minutes the car starts slipping when it switches gears and after another 5 or so min the ABS traction control, AT oil temp lights come on. I drained and filled the transmission fluid twice first time was dark and dirty. I put in a new filter cleaned transmission pan and put on new gasket. Also replaced spark plugs and thermostat. Still same problem after diagnostics on transmission p0712 automatic transmission temp sensor is what it's said is needed? Is this right? And I hear it's internal and hard to replace?

2013 subaru impreza 112k miles Throwing codes p2764 and p0700 All the same lights (Oil, oil temp, abs, traction control, incline) Is this the valve body solenoid? If so is that what should be covered by soa?

Yes to both...if you can get SOA past the 100k stated limit. Good luck. On some Imps the CVT is upside down, so has to be removed to exchange the valve body, so the labor's much higher, get 'em to help significantly!

2013 impreza. 116k miles salvage, idk how many owners...same symptoms and they covered it under warranty

Thanks to this forum, I have 2015 forester premium, 102k in mileage. Got code p2763- valve body for transmission. I called SOA and they gave a case number, the case worker was very helpful and she called me back after verifying with the dealer and they offered me one time only goodwill covering all the cost($1760). I am grateful to you people here. Frank M

2014 Subaru Forester 2.5i, 160K miles. At oil temp flashing, hill assist, traction control & abs lights on. It’s a locked up solenoid. Have to replace valve body warranty expired.

Yup. You can buy the valve body for $700 and find a good wrench to install it in a couple of hours, followed by reprogramming. Good luck. Or...live with it, as you're at risk for total CVT burn-out in the next couple of years. I'd replace the valve body and keep fingers crossed.

This forum is a life save! I have had the same issue with the flashing AT OIL TEMP and BRAKE and constantly on DYNAMIC CONTROL lights on 2 days ago. I did the research and found this discussion, and then I brought my 2014 Outback (147k mileage) to the dealership for diagnosis and they found the same issue (transmission solenoid issue requiring a new valve body) and quoted me ~$2000. Of course, they told me it's out of the extended CVT warranty (100k). I told them my research shows the transmission solenoid is part of the federal PZEV warranty (150k in CA, lucky I am 2500 miles under that!) and show them the following part list under the PZEV warranty (http://owners.honda.com/documentum/warranty/partslist/apl32586.pdf). The service advisor said he would double check and voila!! He came back and told me they would take care of the $2k service cost!!! I am so happy!! Thanks you guys, especially Mike and TheSubaruGuruBoston!

@2015Outback You are a lifesaver! You didn't have to contact Subaru of America? I will bring my 2012 Impreza in tomorrow to see if I get the same codes. If I do, can I use your research for to see if the dealer can cover the cost? Thanks in advance!

@Dustinsubie, I did contact SOA (NJ) first, but the agent offered no help and just told me to bring the car to the dealer and have them look at it first. They are not technically trained to diagnose and give any advice. I basically just show the advisor this thread about transmission solenoid/valve body issue is covered under the Federal PZEV 150k warranty and this link (http://owners.honda.com/documentum/warranty/partslist/apl32586.pdf). That did the trick. Good luck!

This stuff shouldn't provide eureka! moments for owners, as there's been a Fed 10yr/150k emissions warranty for a long time. Subaru extended their warranty for the motor and CVT to 10yrs/100k because of past head gasket notoriety and early CVT failures. If you can somehow cl,aim that the CVT's valkve body addects the emissions system then you'd lie outside general experience and warranty expectations. It sounds more like you were the recipient os idiosyncratic goodwill...which indeed exists. Great!

2014 subaru outback 105,000 miles second owner no warranty i also had this code. Bad valve body. i called SOA. i was very nice and thanked them for their time. i told them about this forum, and that i dont believe everything i read, so i wasn't expecting anything. They gave me $750 credit towards a $1,402 bill.. Again, I told them i was very thankful for their time. it doesnt hurt to try

Hmmm.... The valve body sells for $700 and takes two hours to install. Soimehow the dealer still made a ton of money and Subaru got off throwing a $500 cost part to you. But yes, better to see it as a glass half-full. Oy.

Hey I am having the same problem as everyone else and the dealership said it was the bulkhead harness and quoted me $6500 to repair it. Is this possible or do I need to get a second opinion?

Sure. I'd get two just to be safe!

2013 subaru impreza hatch, 118k miles, last Friday threw all the dash lights mentioned previously in this post, just got the call from my repair shop it is in fact the valve body, wish me luck I am going to be contacting SOA today and hopefully they can work with me. I unfortunately live in NH ( of course the fed 150k warranty covers every other state around me) but keep your fingers crossed, I will update as the week goes on.

I believe the Fed warranty is for emissions-related stuff. The CVT valve body falls within Subie's extended 10yr/100k warranty. So push fairly hard! Good luck.

thanks all for this thread.....I actually found the original letter from Subaru detailing the extension of the CVT warranty...might be useful.

Hey I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza the basic model. I have all of the above problems mentioned. Exactly the same issue. I contacted Subaru and they told me I am over the warranty extension which is over 100k (my car is not even 109k). They seem like they don't want to cooperate with me and help with the bill. How do I process that? Should I argue?

It's 10yr/100k mi, so you're just within the time frame. Call SOA again, and be persistent.

Ernest , so I can argue it on this? On the timeframe?

Of course. SOA has complete latitude to "participate" in the repairs 0-100%.

Hi All, Just wanted to share my experience with the multi warning light issue with my 2014 Impreza Wagon Limited The day AFTER I got my 120K major service, the yellow warning lights went on as I was driving home from work the next day. I brought the car back to the dealer thinking they might have forgot to tighten something. The service rep seemed to be familiar with the issue, telling me that it is a transmission problem, but it sounds worse than it is. Stating that it’s an issue with “the brain of the transmission”. He gave me a loner and said I might not get the car back until tomorrow. When I got home I found this forum. After reading most of the posts, I was expecting the worst. I was prepared to : 1. Contact SubaruOfAmerica regarding PZEV for partial or full reimbursment 2. Pay $1,500-$2,000 out of pocket Soooo…the service rep called me later that day and explained that he has to replace the valve body to the transmission, but the good news was that it was FULLY COVERED under 150K. My jaw dropped and gave him a big thank you‼️ Was I just lucky? Or are their others who had zero hassel? Has Subaru changed thier tune across the board with this issue? FYI : I took my Impreza to a Subaru dealership in the Boston area

I have had the issue with the Following Warning lights; AT Oil Temp, ACTIVE Stability Control and ABS system. Had a diagnosis of an electrical issue with a blown bulb on the rear brake light. This causes a short in the brake control system and the Main ECU reads that fault and throw the warning lights to protect the CVT transmission ETC. This may not be the cause of your vehicle, but may be something to check before a really expensive repair.

I have a 2011 Subaru Forester. I purchased it used at 89K, My problem started at 103K. Started with a dead battery, replaced that. Then the 02 Sensor, replaced that. Had to keep a portable jumper in the car. All of the lights that were mentioned came on: At Oil Temp, Tractions, ABS. I have taken the car back a couple of times, still to no avail. I will now take it to a Subaru dealer and mention the information that I have read on this thread. I do have an APEX Ext Warranty plan. I am hoping this can be resolved. I get some relief by turning off anything that compromises the electricity such as: heat, defroster, radio. If it rains or snows, all of the lights are going to come on. If it's stop and go traffic and the humidity is high, all of the lights are going to come on. I am grateful for the SUBARU GURU on the thread. I have learned a lot and will make these suggestions to the dealer, if they don't already know. I will proceed with the attitude of a novice....of course. I found all of the information very helpful.

CEL? When was battery replaced? If 2-3 years ago with OEM Panasonic battery, switch to better battery, like a $90 Interstate at COSTCO. If no CEL and your F stalls at lights AFTER new battery tell subaru you might need a CVT valve body perhaps because of that bad solenoid issue. Any news? Ernie/TSG-Boston

Hi Ernest, I am unsure if you are referring to GuruK4BS3...However, if you are, the battery is less than a year old and a very good one. I will discuss the possibility of needing a CVT Valve body along with the other info that I have mentioned to them. I certainly appreciate the input. THANKS FOR THE KNOWLEDGE!

2015 Subaru Forester, 126K miles. This issue popped up late last week, which led to my finding this thread. Didn't have time to deal with it until today, but brought it to Patriot Subaru in North Attleboro, MA this morning. I kept this thread bookmarked in case I needed ammunition for arguing it should be covered. They called about an hour later... confirmed it was the transmission valve body, which they replaced under the extended warranty and the car was ready to pick up. :raised_hands:

Hello all, I had the same issues and it was diagnosed as valve body. That was replaced but the car has been shuddering during idle and sometimes slams into gear from a stop. Anyone else experienced this after the valve body was replaced? 2014 Subaru Crosstrek XV with 99,700 miles on it.

Found this post when looking up my code for a 2013 Legacy. Unfortunately my car has 177K miles....way outside the extensions. After reading this, I don't understand why this wasn't a recall. Im sure there are many more with this issue. Great information on this thread! At least I know might have to pay anywhere between 1300 to 1700 to repair...is it worth it in anyones opinion?

I found this post researching, today on my 2013 Impreza with 98,000 miles the light just came on. I take very good care of this car it goes for all it's maintenance and oil changes. It just went in for it's 90,000 check, changed all fluids found no metal shaving in transmission fluid, was told it a lot of more year's to go.