Toyota Camry 09 4-cylinder I just replaced battery, I turn on the car got everything set up and now my car went into limp mode and I can't figure out how to get it out?
23 Answers
When it goes in to limp mode the CEL will be on. Have OBDII codes scanned to point you where the problem is. It's a popular misconception that limp mode means transmission problem, but not true. Depending on what the DTC is, you may or may not be able to DIY, depending on your automotive skills. But when it it fixed, it will leave limp mode and run normally without having to "re-set" it
But, however, with battery disconnected for a while the ECU goes in to default settings must 're-learn' all the data and maybe, just maybe, driving it for 20-30 miles it could fix it's self
If I let it idle 20 to 30 minutes do you think it will do you think same thing as driving in 20 to 30 miles ?
So I just went down to my local auto parts store and had the car scaned and it said it was the throttle actutator control motor. Why would replacing a battery screw up ?
It wouldn't. Something else is going on. And to answer your first question, yes, idling will serve the same purpose while ECU 're-learns'
When I replaced the battery in my Corolla I put the battery in right there in the parking lot of NAPA and and it ran like crap all the way home, about 10 minutes, I was getting nervous-- then I let it idle for another 10 minutes then everything was fine.
Exactly what code did it throw...P????
http://www.engine-codes.com/p2118_2009_toyota_camry.html - one of the causes is battery, which could mean cables. If you are not getting a good solid ground from battery this will happen. click image
Used the volt meater to check the power in the wires then checked the ground wire. Still nothing. Even deleted/ erased the code.
It's still not working... Ugh....I used the volt reeder and tested all the wires on the throttle actuator the orange cable was the only week one.
migration_Lastchance... answered 9 years ago
You might have to have the computer on this vehicle ..."Reset" with a scan tool. However, I would be inclined to try this first. Clear the code(s)...start her up and sit in the vehicle and let it idle. Turn on the A/C and place the tranny in drive with the park brake applied, let it run for a few minutes. Then put it in reverse for a few minutes. Back into park. Drive this vehicle at different speeds for about 20 minutes. If she still is in "limp in".....take to a repair shop that has a scan tool capable to doing "resets". Lesson learned....do not D/C the battery on these modern cars WHITHOUT first installing some sort of "battery saver" device.
Limp mode is stupid in my opinion. The car only drives at 1 rpms
migration_Lastchance... answered 9 years ago
Interesting you should have that opinion. The REAL intent of this computer control mode is to teach us a lesson. Do not try to fix your own vehicle. Take it to the Dealer/Repair Garage for maintenance and repair. Automobile Computers have had programs called "Adaptive Learning" for many years. It is rather recently(last 10 years) that manufacturers created and installed a program which includes this "Limp in Mode" to be triggered by a simple Battery Disconnect. Thus we have learned to find ways to defeat this mode. Thus....the Battery Memory Saver was invented. Most quality Scan Tools today have the capability to perform a "reset" of many parameters on todays modern vehicle...including a Battery D/C. So....advise to the DIYS out there.....do your research BEFORE you attempt to maintain and repair your vehicle. That is why there is Google and this forum.
It's giving 2 codes P2118 P2118 p/d
migration_Lastchance... answered 9 years ago
Have you checked the ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) FUSE?. I think it is located in the Fuse/Relay box under the hood of this vehicle. Did you perhaps installed the battery "backwards"? Why was the battery replaced?
Left lights on. Came back next morning and it was dead.
migration_Lastchance... answered 9 years ago
Ok...I think I understand. IF this vehicle was running fine BEFORE the battery went dead...and....you installed a new battery correctly....not backwards...we can assume no other damages have occurred. It appears you may need a computer "reset". You need a Scan Tool to perform this Reset. You might consider performing the above procedure I described......letting the engine IDLE ...warmed up.....foot on brake...shifting through the gears....A/C on full. Then if possible...take the vehicle down the road for a road test. Don't forget to check that ETC FUSE under the hood of the vehicle. The ID for the fuses and relays are indicated on the Fuse/Relay COVER. Good luck.
This is a two dollar problem a car dealer will charge a thousand to fix. Messing with the charging system such as boosting the battery can result in a power surge that blows a tiny ten amp micro fuse found in the relay/ fuse box in the engine comprtment on driver side. The fuse protects the throttle control motor attached to the throttle. Get a download of a printout of the fuse box wiring and do what I did - buy two fuses and keep a spare fuse and the printout inside the fuse box so you are set if it happens again. Happy motoring!
Further comment to above, I got a jump from a guy in a parking lot who crossed the cables during a severe snowstorm. My Camry started but left me in limp mode for a horrific drive home in blizzard conditions. A tow to the dealer would have resulted in UNNECESSARY replacement of ECM, and electronic control motor. At least a grand. A little time researching on the Internet and a couple bucks for 10 amp fuses worked for me. My Camry never spent an hour in the dealer service repair shop in 7 years of ownership. My son has this car now and I drive a newer Camry ( now 2 years old ) so stay away from the dealer if you can - even if it is under warranty and they offer free inspections. Your car and your wallet will thank you.
Went through this exact thing with an 06 Highlander. After a trip to the used car dealership's shop and 3 trips to the Toyota dealer, they finally blamed t on a bad ecu. Toyota Dealer wanted 2200 to fix it. We also tried the cheaper solutions we found on the internet...new gas cap, MAF sensor, vaccum leaks, etc. The aftermarket stereo ended up being the problem. At the insistence of my wife,I put the stock radio back in and it ran fine, all codes disappeared. I just couldn't believe that someone could be so idiotic as to program a vehicle that way but apparently I was wrong. Gotta have a specialist install it I guess
Congratulations..........to your Wife of course. Seems...she's smarter than the folks at the repair facility. Let's see now....how can one such as yourself show his appreciation? Hmmm.