Nissan Altima 2011 2.5 s slip indicator comes on and engine loses acceleration ability. Dignostic says Engine losing connection with ECU

30

Asked by xTWISTEDONEx Dec 29, 2018 at 01:14 PM about the 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

My 2011 Nissan Altima just hit 208,000 miles.  No
real issues outside of wear and tear.  This issue
started randomly and not very often at all.  Then it
started to slowly become an issue.  The car will be
driving down the freeway at 70mph and everything
seems fine.  If i brake aggressively, i run the risk(
which is almost 100% of the time now)  of setting
off this issue and car will lose acceleration ability.
Power is on and the traction control slip indicator
comes on.  During this time at full throttle the cars
engine will bog down and almost engine brake the
entire car. Slowing us down and not allowing me to
use the gas pedal past half way or so.  After this, i
have to accelerate from a stop very slowly and
only a small anount of pressure onto the pedel to
make the car start to move.  If i give it more the car
starts to jerk back and forth and sounds like its
going to die.  The car doesnt die, the rpms even at
idle start to flutter or stutter.  This issue is pretty
much a wreck waiting to happen.  Ive had this
happen at 80mph in traffic and everyonr wants to
go ! Me being in the wrong lane, this just about
created a huge pile up!  We have since stop the
use of this car but desperately need the vehicle.  
Mechanic has ran the tests when the issue is
presenting itself, and all he can find is the Engine
losses connection with the ecu during that time
and thats it.  No coee related to this is there and
MAF sensor has been changed at 100,000 and
200,000 .  Ecu not reprogrammed after MAF
sensor replacement.  It never had this issue until
after a brake job or so it seemed.  ( probably just a
fluke)  The slip indicator comes on but no other
lights like “abs” or anything !  I have to shut down
the car , sometimes try a few times to start it and
then the issue goes away.  This being that the
codes clear on good starts, has made this issue
one hell of a headache.  Any idea what it is?  
Mechanic is a very solid shop and has always
taken good care of our vehicals.  This even had
them stumped but ive seen this with them before,
and they will findout what it is, just thought id try
and help a bit !

3 Answers

20

Just wondering did you figure this out? Mine just started doing the same thing :(

2 people found this helpful.
30

No GuruB7YMK, we dont even drive it right now as its to dangerous and unreliable. We need it bad too, but man be safe in it. That issue is random as hell and it gets worse . Sometimes its happening 5 and 6 times before giving me a break and letting me drive. Typically after its warmed up and driven a bit, it then shows up. You will think its gone, because its not showing up . You forget about the problem and then BAM! You find yourself playing frogger as you maneuver off and out if traffic . Sorry for late response i just noticed the email. If i do get it figuered out ill be sure to post it here for you and anyone else. I also have a post on the forums for this . Once again dont trust it . Be safe and if you have to drive it like i do at times, stay resdy and in the slow lane. The car tends to move better when trying to gas it if you use manual mode and i put it in 5th gear or so. Then allows for the car to gain speed slightly and no stuttering. Otherwise in auto i just litely give it gas under say 2k rpms and you can gain speed that way. Its not your mass airflow sensor thats for sure . Even there are times it comes on and the car is fine until you stop at a light, then when you need to go, it starts its b.s. Cheers and good luck!

10

I had the very same issues with my 2011 Altima for more than 9 months. After changing the mass air flow censor twice and using miracle oil in the gas tank I was ready to give up and sell my vehicle. Fortunately one of my uber passengers told me to change the gas I was using to hightest (93 octane) and once I burned up the 87 octane gas and filled up with 93 octane, it solved my issues. My car now runs perfectly and I just drove roundtrip from TN to NJ. To be sure the type of gas was truly the culprit, I put midgrade gas in my car one more time and sure enough, all the issues returned. Use 91 Octane or better and see for yourself.

1 people found this helpful.

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