Jeep not wanting to start when engine warm

could be one of 4 things Cam shaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor or coil packs. misfire is the key here. think of an old turn signal relay or a fire sprinkler when the metal tab gets hot it bends or flexs and breaks contact when it cools down it re-engages power resumes heat resumes and re flexs its a visious cycle. now in the sensors the wire may have so much power that it cannot seperate and that is why it can sustain itself while in operation like ironman current making it so they couldnt let go of the next person in the link or why if electrocuted u cannot let go of the current source, but once you shut off the car it lets loose and takes a while to reconnect because of the engine block heat. same with your coil pack or over coil plug depending which you have i would start there.

When the problem is ongoing if the starter motor cranks the engine ok, how could it be the starter motor. Now if the starter motor won't crank the engine that is a different issue. I'd have to check voltage and ground for the starter motor. When I read your first sentence in your post, I thought, the fuel system is too rich for a hot engine, after reading everything, now I'm not sure? I'm a jack of all trades and a master of none. If you don't want to do a little testing, I'm not sure how to help?

oilspill if u read his post it cranks starts but sounds like a misfire so he shuts it off to avoid damage dont know why your going on a bout a starter that for 1 has allready been replaced and 2 still cranks and starts the car. one other thing you can look into get yourself a can of maf and iac sensor cleaner spray and clean them off they are in the tube for the clean air . look for the wire connectors on the line from your air inlet box to the throttle plate. if those are dirty it will give false readings and cause rough start conditions. iac is idle air control it also registers air temp if dirty it can retain heat from engine bay making the computer think its hotter than it is and this adjusts your fuel air delivery to a level not conducive of idling

Oilyspill & Coolslider thank you both so much for getting back to me with advices so quickly. I appreciate it very much. Coolslider: Although I'm not a mechanic I really think its a sensor issue so your point are very well taken. I will start by the cleaning process you suggested which I hope to do today and then consider the other things you suggested. I now have to locate all these sensors, coil packs and coil plug which I'm not familiar with. I will google all that stuff and see what I can come up with so that I can attack the problem and solve it ASAP. I have been dealing with the issue for over a year now and I need to solve the issue ASAP. Again, thank you so much for your input and hope it works. I will update later.

Oilyspill, My "former" mechanic suggested from the very beginning to replace the starter but I told him that there were no issue in starting the jeep when the engine was cold and that I thought it was a engine temperature or sensor issue. He said starters does do that when they start failing. I disagreed BUT I went ahead and had him replaced it to immediately realized it wasn't the issue. After that, I told him that I would take care of the problem myself. It's not that I don't want to do some testing here and there but I believe that I shouldn't have to replace a ton of parts and HOPE that I guessed the right one. As you know it can be very expensive to go with a process of elimination/guessing..... Car dealerships like this process.... I must not be the only one with this issue. Thanks for your input.

Coolslider - It doesn't seem that I can clean the IAC because the Throttle Body Assembly is electronic, there is no separate IAC. There are two different throttle bodies for the 2007 Jeep V6: drive by wire & electronic. I got the electronic. Based on the problem I described could the throttle assembly be the issue (since I can't clean the iac). I'm thinking of replacing the throttle body. Would that be the first thing to do??? Please let know what you think. Thank you.

Coolslider - The little blue "bulb" of the air temperature sensor was dirty so I cleaned it and also cleaned the electronic throttle body. I went for a 20 minute drive, turned off the engine and restarted three times in a row without failure. I must say that its 37 degrees so I'm not completely sure that the problem is fixed but it looks good. I will re-test tomorrow and will update. Thanks for help.

Glad you got it going your way.

Problem completely fixed. Thanks so much Coolslider!

No problem still how did oil get best answer lol

Very slick of you oil sliding in the best answer I will admit lack of coffee is a good answer to alot of life's problems thou

Coolslider I spoke too fast. I thought I had fixed my Jeep but today it did it again. I will order the crankshaft & camshaft sensors and see if this time it will fix it. To follow.

Coolslider, I replaced the camshaft position sensor & crankshaft position sensor and now the car won't start at all. It cranks but won't start. I'm guessing that if I put back the old sensors I won't have problem starting the engine but I still will have the initial issue. Any ideas?

It wasn't me? I wondered the same thing? I clicked your post as helpful. I thought you gave me that for saying I was hard-headed? lol

I didn't see a link for best answer, If I had I would have given to you, cool. Probably just somebody agreeing that I'm hard headed. lol

Hey I am having the same issue with my 2007 jeep cherokee lurado. Did you ever figure out what it was?

JJ, no I haven't and it's getting worse. Its doing it on a regular basis in cold weather too. I should probably go to the dealer but I won't because I cant stand going there. Have you had it looked by a good mechanic yet?

I have it scheduled to go in tomorrow at a licensed mechanic. I will let you know how it goes.

That would be great. Good luck.

The mechanic believes its the fuel pump. Its going to cost me 480$ and it should be done tomorrow. I will let you know hoe it goes.

Exact same issue happens with my 2005. I was curious if the thermostat could be a culprit or the sending unit. Which might cause the temp reading to be higher than normal, thus causing the wacky start issues when warm. Anyone with mechanical knowledge have any input. I honestly don't know much. And I'm as stumped as everyone else.

Replaced fuel pump and starter still having the same issue.

JJ, thanks for letting me know. I was getting ready to replace the fuel pump since I was pretty convinced it was the issue. Now I'm rethinking the wheel thing but I may try to replace it anyway. Will you be going back to the mechanic?

Rick I can promise you it's not the fuel pump. If it's the same issue it has something to do with the engine temp. I've come to realize that. Once question for both of y'all is does your fan work? I noticed the other day during a cold day of rain my Jeep was steaming.i popped the hood and the fan wasn't Running. So I'm gonna check my fan relay. The engine temp Is the culprit that is causing the issue just gotta find out the other catalysts

Rickster, no problem. It's cold enough in southwest Michigan that it hasn't been to big of a deal. But eventually I will take it back to the mechanic. Shawn, my fan is working fine.

So I am having the same issue and for some reason when I hit the fuel bleed off valve and release the pressure a bit it will start just fine but I have to do that any time it's at running temperature

Interesting. Thanks for your input.

Shawn, I want to replace the cooling fan relay but I can’t find the location. It’s not in the fuse/relay box. If it is, under what name? HVAC??? I don’t think it’s behind the passenger side headlight like the earlier models. Spent a lot of time on youtube trying to locate it but without success. Any help would be appreciated. I need to resolve this issue ASAP.

Same exact problem with my 2007 3.7V6 WK. Will be following this thread to see if you guys find the culprit. I had replaced my electronic throttle body and it seemed to help for a little while but started doing it again

Have you considered the coolant temp sensor ? Sometimes send a false signal to the onboard comp that the engine is running to hot thus preventing start. Had the same problem with my 95 4.0

Ricksterjeep07 Have you considered the coolant temp sensor ? Sometimes send a false signal to the onboard comp that the engine is running to hot thus preventing start. Had the same problem with my 95 4.0

The problem has been resolved permanently. The radiator fan was not working so the engine was constantly over heating. Several people suggested I replace the fan relay but there is none for my 2007 Jeep. I called the dealer and gave them my vin# and found out that the possible issue could be the resistor radiator fan (Harness heater), part# 5143210AA. I ordered it from Mopar , installed it (took 5 minutes) and the problem was finally resolved. Now the fan is running when the engine is hot.

Did the engine temp gauge go over 210?

Did the gauge ever go all the way to hot? Did the fan ever turn on? I ha e a 2010 Jeep GC with the same problem.

I have the same problem, however it’s like 85+ degrees in the middle of the day and car doesn’t start nor does it try to turn over. I replaced the battery, starter, radiator & waterpump about year ago hoping it would resolve the issue but nothing. Could the radiator fan still be the culprit if it doesn’t even turnover on the first try of the day at noon when it’s the hottest out?

I fixed the cooling fan but still had the same issue. My radiator was leaking so I had it replaced and since them I never had the issue anymore so case resolved.

Silverback_WK my temp gage went above ‘norm’ but that was bc my radiator had a leak and water tank a crack. After replacing both, temp is back to normal...however when I get out of truck after a 10 mile drive car is extremely hot but gauge reads normal. I’d hate to sell this my Jeep but I feel bad passing this crysler crap on to other ppl :/

So did the replacement of radiator fan permanently fix the problem. Having same issue with my 2012 Jeep limited. Have replaced fuel filter but still same prob. Any help welcome :)

we are having the same problem with our 2015 jeep. it is not over heating. when you drive it for a little bit shut it off it will not start again

Actually Warno, its interesting you asked. 3 weeks ago the same problem came back again. I suspect that the resistor radiator fan (that was replaced) may have stopped working but I'm not even sure it's the problem either. A little frustrating but this time I won't even try to fix it as I'm too busy with work. I wish you good luck.

just a thought when you're having the problem when the when the vehicle won't run after it's been warmed up what you should do is bleed down the fuel pressure and try to start it and then check the fuel pressure again if it's rebuilt pressure then your fuel is fine the other thing you would check is remove one of your spark plug wires and then try to crank it if it won't spark then that means that there is something with your spark control module I it's not actually called a spark control module but you get the point where when the engine is hot it's not getting sparked to the cylinder because you need three things in order for for ignition you need spark air and fuel and compression but I'm guessing since the vehicles working you've got compression so you're either not getting enough air which is unlikely unless you've got a stuck valve and that doesn't happen just because the engine gets hot you're getting a fuel system issue which you're saying that replacing the fuel pump did not resolve or you're getting a spark issue so you would need to back trace along what controls the sparking ignition on your vehicle and that is timed by the camshaft and crankshaft position sensor which you said that you've already replaced but if I remember correctly a while after posting this I remember something about one of the wires that ran across the engine block would get melted through and it could potentially cause grounding of the signal wire so as far as your radiators concerned I'm pretty sure I thought if there was a problem with that you would have told us that you had your temperature light on but any other questions I'm sorry I've been really busy the last year I'll try to I'll try to keep a checking on my email

We found the problem after so many things. We replaced the fuse box another word for it tipm Integrated power module.

So has anyone solved this issue? I tried the cleanings. Replaced the start more than once due to the starter going bad because of this issue. I have 2007 Grand cherokee as well but cant seem to find the cause and it seems to be getting worse.

My problem was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Relatively cheap part. I paid someone to do it just because it's a bitch to remove. My 2010 Jeep GC has 120K miles on it and for some reason it didn't want to let go of that sensor. Pay someone to change it. It was 80 bucks well spent. If you want to try and do it yourself it's not in a difficult spot but prepare yourself for a tug of war match. Mine almost broke inside the block. Good luck!

I have this issue. Hesitates to start when warm, hot. If I come out after the vehicle has been sitting overnight and start it it starts up like a champ. If I take at the very least a long 30 minute drive going to the store and then come back out at times it's hesitant to start I can hear it cranking over but it sounds like it's choking on fuel. All my readings say that the fuel filter is a lifetime product, what though... I'm very opinionated on what the lifetime is expected to be. I read that it could be a coolant temperature sensor in which it does not see that the engine is hot and therefore it induces a rich mix of few old making it hard to start. When I change the coolant temperature sensor the map sensor was right next to it so I change that as well. That was about two weeks ago and I have not really taken any long drives where I needed to get my back in the car and drive it until yesterday. I just did a coolant change and coolant flush so I am sure that I am not overheating in the gauge does not show any overheating so I highly doubt any coolant radiator fan is going to have anything to do with anyone's issue here. I do not think it's a crankshaft position sensor because your crankshaft is set to a specific firing position the entire time your vehicle is running hot or cold. If it was a bad fuse or something of that nature it would not matter whether the vehicle was hot or cold. Without making this too long but I'm starting to wonder is if maybe I'm having an injector issue. If an injector is bad it's not going to be clear to induce a full amount of fuel which would be needed on a hot engine. I just hit 150,002 miles, my second commander. 1st 06, this an 08 3.7 So much like everyone here we still need to find an answer to this issue.

Hey guys! I have the same issue. (F-me) so im here having the mechanic look at it. Having them check the engine fan, also looking at the crank sensor as mentioned eariler. If i find the solution i will let you know.

Hey guys so I also have a 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee wk I started having this problem a few months back and wasn't able to figure it out the battery and starter are fairly new but I tested those anyway and they read fine. What boggled me the most was my Jeep would only do this while warm and cold starts I would have no problem she would start up like a champ. I leave my car running now where ever I go and hope nobody steals it because if I turn it off it won’t start. Me and my mechanic came to conclusion that it was a bad cam shaft sensor it was changed and the problem was fixed until about a month and a half later when the problem occurred again And I’m Still tryin to figure this out many mechanics don’t see the problem unless you show it to them and if not they just replace things and hope it works. If anybody has any updates or suggestions I’m all ears.

Hi all. We think we have an answer- well it’s worked so far for our Jeep. My Jeep ended up dying completely. Wouldnt even start cold anymore as it had for past 6 months. Thought it was gone for good. With some extra digging because our mechanic had no idea, we managed to get it going ourselves. We bought a part which bypasses the relay in the TIPM. This bypasses a fault in the fuel pump relay. We bought the plug in relay system which we fit ourselves - 15 mins. Check out a site verticalvisions.com Good luck!!

Ok so as you can see up in the comments I thought I fixed this problem. Let me reiterate. Jeep is a 2010, has 121k miles on it and starts up like a champ on a cold start. I've changes the alternator, battery, spark plugs, crankshaft position sensor and still have this problem. I drive the car about 15, 20 minutes to the point of it being warmed up. If I turn the vehicle off and let it sit about 10 mins I get the problem where it wont turn back on unless I wait 20 minutes. If I stop at a store what I usually do is turn the vehicle off, take the key out and then start her up with the factory auto start and she starts right up. I'm still having this problem and dont know what's going on. It can't be the fuel pump because this would effect the cold starts as well. Sorry but no success on my end. Hopefully this will get resolved soon. I'll keep everyone posted.

This is simple, EGR valve replacement! I hope I helped everyone looking for this long awaited answer!

Hopefully I can do this myself.. According to some of the research I've done, this is a pretty tricky fix and not easy to accomplish. Also, I it's pretty expensive. Somewhere in the $500 range. Has anyone done this yet? I will try and do this Asap and report back.

The part with gaskets shouldn’t run more than $70. It’s 4 bolts, 2 of them being T45 socket. You will have to Remove air handler and some hoses. Check your pcv connection after taking it off at the 90 degree for any splitting. It shouldn’t take more than an hour.

I will add this. I changed the crank position sensor. Then it reversed (the car was longer cranking to start) 15.00 sensor. Got a check engine light (longer crank gave misfire code) expected. So I said let me buy a better sensor. 30.00 sensor no luck. Same issue, only, engine light and traction light and limp mode. No bueno. I then spend a day of multimeter and probe. Wires fine, ground fine, current within tolerance on the power and signal. All camshaft teeth ok. So i decided this was all due to sensor. I take out the 2nd sensor, brake it, yep......go to home depot and get a eyeloop and screw that in to remove the broke (2 day old installed sensor). I go to Jeep, buy a Mopar sensor 68.43 and put it in. Jeep starts right up. 10 minutes of occasional on/off engine light (com resetting probably) and so far, 10 -14 days ....ALL GOOD. A few long rides, hot engine, all good. No excessive cranking. Moral of my experience...buy the Mopar factory sensor. Just my opinion based on my experience.

Did the EGR valve help......patiently waiting..

Any pictures of the bypass relay switch...or where was it purchased from

I have been having this issue for damn near 2 years. Does anyone have a legit fix yet? One that has lasted. Every time I think we fixed it a week later it comes back up. These trucks suck!

LancPrint, I also thought that I had fixed the issue but it came back just the same. I believe it’s temperature / sensor related but I can’t pin point the malfunction.

Legit fixed it - sold the JEEP!! All my problems solved :)

I have been researching this issue across several forums...with the same issues on liberty and Cherokee with 3.7...i have a 2007 Jeep Commander that does it. I believe the fuel is getting vapor locked.When it does it if you relieve some gas through the shrader valve it will start right up. So I bought some heat shield from AutoZone and made a template then wrapped the fuel rail with Heat Shield. I just finished. I will test drive tomorrow.. and give results. Here are some pixs

...another pic

My daughter's 2010 GC Laredo started doing this. Mechanic (not a dealer) wants to change plugs/wires. What direction do I need to go here since I can't seem to duplicate the issue on command. It happens after she drives the jeep around running errands. Around the 4th or 5th start it will struggle to start and then make the missing noise when it does start. Turn off and usually will start up with no issues. I'm afraid this will eventually lead to her being stranded somewhere.

Supasta i know it's just been a couple days but did this work? The last few days I've been thinking about trying this. Seen your post and got excited someone is doing exactly what I was gonna try.

It didn't work as planned. I think it made it worse actually. I went from a 15 min after I cut the car off to about 5 mins. I've discovered a fuel rail modification that I'm going to try.

I had the fuel pressure gauge on it today and it pumps up and holds 60 psi. So the pump is fine.

Hello everyone same issue here, the only thing that fixed it is to purge the fuel rail just a bit and it will start right up, also I’ve had success by priming the pump 2-3 times turning the ignition on, I noticed when is cold outside fuel pressure does not hold for a long time, it falls rapidly, lets resolve this guys ....

Hey all - i'm having same issue on my 2005 grand cherokee. recently changed the radiator and fan, new battery, new spark plugs. engine starts no problem in cold weather. it gives an issue after the engine is warm and try and start up again. Could it be the crank position sensor?

Just to check back with everyone, my Jeep stopped having issues after I replaced the fan, relay and oil pressure reg. For about 4 months. It has since come back. But what I have figured out is once hot if I barely put my foot on the gas not full peddle down and not withholding any gas at all so there is a sweet spot, it will start every time. I just completed a cross country drive with the jeep and stopped many times throughout the drive to gas up etc. With the peddle in the sweet spot it started every single time. No more sinking money into this issue. Just going to continue to use the sweet spot. Good luck y'all

Hello, I have the exact same problem with my '07 Grand Cherokee. I was having issues with my radiator fan not turning on so I thought that was the problem. I took the fan motor out, opened it up and I found that the brushes were sticking so I fixed the motor and my fan ran correctly but the "warm" starting problem continues. Just like the OP I also noticed a very brief "Transmission over temp" on the console after turning the keys off. Could this be a hint? I took some screenshots of the sensor readings last time my jeep failed to start warm, I'm attaching those. @Shawn Looking forward to trying this method as it appears to be an elusive issue to fix.

I have the same problem with my 2007 GC. Have been fighting this for YEARS. Here is some info I've collected on the issue... THE PROBLEM: Fuel is Vaporizing in the fuel rail due to heat soak within the engine compartment while hot/parked. TEMPORARY FIX: Bleed off pressure @ schrader valve on the fuel rail each time this happens. The car will start right up after this. Be prepared to smell like gas. POSSIBLE CAUSES: 1) Chrysler did not install any form of purge solenoid on the fuel rail which sends hot/vaporized fuel back to the tank in "Ignition OFF" position. (Most modern vehicles have this due to Ethanol fuels burning hotter). 2) Heat soaking within the engine bay due to high heat on metal components, including fuel rails. Engine bay is tightly sealed. POSSIBLE LONG TERM FIXES: 1) Insulate Fuel Rails. Remember fuel rail insulation traps just as much heat as it deflects. This normally does not work. 2) Develop valve setup for the fuel rail schrader valve and run a hose to the ground. This will allow you to bleed the fuel rail without exposing yourself to hot fuel. 3) Reprogram and extend cooling fan run time after ignition power is terminated. (Let the fans run for a set duration while vehicle is parked.) 4) Hood Vents to allow for adequate heat exhaustion. Definitely an option, but who wants to cut holes in their hood... NOTE: I have opened a Case Study with Chrysler engineers about this issue, and they ARE aware of it. However these vehicles are at least 10 years old, therefore Chrysler is not obligated to recall or produce a "fix". We are on our own folks. For now, I just keep bleeding the fuel rail and/or plan my trips to eliminate shutting the Jeep off when possible. I even fuel up while running. Hope this helps some.

@07Cherokee - Thank you for your input, very informative. Time to build a custom fuel rail bleed off valve.

Yeah I've given up on trying to figure it out but i do believe it has to do with the fuel only because, when I have this problem I will prime the gas peddle a few times and then she starts right up. The more interesting part is, the Jeep has to be sitting for at least 5 minutes after driving for the problem to occur.

08Commander did replacing the crank position sensor with the Mopar factory part work/fix the issue?...and is still fixed?

@blakewier, I replaced my crankshaft position sensor and this did not fix my issue. I believe 07Cherokee might be right. I believe it has something to do with the fuel.

@Silverback_WK thank you for letting me know. Yea I have read on other websites (in addition to your attempt) that a fuel pressure sensor/fuel pump "could be" the issue. Someone on YouTube came to that conclusion by doing something that seemed to be very similar to what 07Cherokee described, but obviously (like everything) may help or may not. **I went back to read some of your jeep fun, SOUNDS LIKE YOU TRIED EVERYTHING...and your issue sounds exactly like mine. Just to make sure we on the same page, does your jeep: - only has the starting issue when engine is hot (30 min-ish drive and mostly highway driving speed affects it the most. My starting holds up much longer at slower speeds.) - engine tries to turn over, good split second sound at initial start when turning over but instantly sputters/very rough idle and then dies out - zero issues once car is running - I also think mine has to be sitting for 5 or more minutes to have an issue... - *unfortunately mine recently even died out/didn't start when using auto start I have an 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

I have a '97 grand cherokee laredo with the 4.0. I have had the same problem as OP. My jeep has 158k miles. I have replaced the belt, battery, battery cables, IAC, TPS, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributer, starter, water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, injectors, and have an aftermarket air filter. I have thoroughly cleaned the throttle body, and maf sensor. I am using up this tank of gas and will be replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter and both strainers as well as cleaning the inside and outside of the gas tank. I have done a lot (and still a few electrical problems and no radio) and plan to do more as I can. None of these things individually helped with the whole restart after warm. I live in south Texas and it gets hot here. I read this post a few days ago, after I replaced the injectors and encountered the problem yet again. I tried relieving the pressure on the fuel rail through the Schrader valve. This has completely solved this. I used a small towel to cover the port as to not spray gas all over the engine and depress the little valve like deflating a tire. Once I get back in the jeep and try to turn the key it just cranks over and over for a few. I feel like I am having to build some pressure back in the rail. The second time I turn the key it fires right up just like when it is cool. I made a trip to the city just to try again. The jeep wouldn't restart after I had lunch. I relieved pressure and fired up. I wish there were a fuel pressure relief system, but I am going to try to make one somehow. Just wanted to drop my two cents and hope it helps someone.

It is now close to the end of the quarantine...truck starts up like nothing was wrong. The Hubs came up with the half pushed Gas like someone previously stated, aka, “sweet spot” but I can’t do it. Will update after this 2020 summer, bc the summer HEAT seems to affect it.

Just wanted to say I have had this issue with my 2005 jeep Grand Cherokee for years. The first year I sunk thousands into the Jeep with no fix. For the past 4 years I've used the "sweet spot method" of giving gas prior to starting. It works for me. With my Jeep being a 2005 with almost 200k I am not willing to sink more into a problem that doesn't have a definitive fix as of yet. And when I say sweet spot im talking just the slightest pressure on the gas pedal. I think this all stems from some type of fuel to air mixer imbalance within the engine after it gets warm. Good luck everyone

I believe I have something!!!!!.. if this continues to work I might do a full blog. I went to junkyard and salvaged a fuel rail that I modified. I removed the crossover pipe, removed the baffle from left side of fuel rail, then welded in a fitting and made a new crossover pipe with braided hose.( I also upgraded fuel injectors while I had it apart). Been driving the past few days without incident. I keep everyone posted on performance

More pics

My pics installed

Same problem. 2010 grand cherokee. Started fine when engine was cool but was strandes many times even burned up my starter once trying to get it to start. Replaces the starter relay. The first two weeks it wouldnt start just a handful of times when hot and since then not a single problem. Starts up everytime I need it to no matter how many small quick errands I've ran or how hot the engine is. Been working great for 6 months. #8 on the diagram for my vehicle

I’ve replaced almost everything mentioned here. Nothing worked. Finally replaced the injectors and it solved the problem!

Same issue same year and model 2007 3.7 WK replaced the obvious crank and cam sensor. I even had access to a new PCM and it does the same thing. No code thrown ever. I tried disconnecting the battery after a half a dozen tries and it kept doing it until it cooled off ..it was only 60 out. The rub is if you do a restart within 15-20 minutes it fires right up. Its that 15 to 40 after that it happens.

When it happens again take your gas cap off and try to start it.

This model has a weak fuel pump. When the tank goes into a vacuum it wont pump to the injectors. Vacuum breaker on cap most likely is bad.

Replaced starter relay and going on a year with no issues. Just wanted to give an update.

I can't wait to get rid of my 07 Commander. I've had this issue for 2 years now. Today was the first time I drained the battery trying to start it. I just hit 201,000 miles and it's time to plan for a new truck.

i have the same problem. i just have to purge the fuel rail or put snow on it so it cool down. and it start verry well ! i think the best way to fix it is to isolate the fuel rail and put high quality coolant for the engine. the engine become too hot and there is no way to know it becasue the dash only tells you what temp is the coolant but not the engine.

i use to wait 15-20 min before winter but now i can use the snoe too cool it down. you can try with cold water it might help. but i dont know what damage this could cause

Just purchased a 2010 grande cherokee for my daughter. It only has 96 000 miles. Within a few weeks of purchasing it left her stranded while she was running errands. The vehicle had all new electrical done by the dealership 7 months before we purchased it and it has a 2 year warranty. So we took it to dealership... they were unsure of what could be the issue... made a few suggestions(of course none that were covered under the warranty)and gave an estimate for 2600.00. We declined the work and instead took it to a trusted mechanic. He kept it for several days trying to replicate the issues. He finally suggested replacing the WINN module. We were hopeful this was going to be the fix... but sadly it left my daughter stranded yet again just a week later. Like everyone else the vehicle is fine with a cold start...but once it has been running for a short time...and will not restart.. and it won't start for several minutes..sometimes as long as 20 minutes. So lost in what to do. Fearful for my daughter to continue driving the vehicle but also not in a position to keep putting money into the vehicle either. Would appreciate any advice. Just a mom without mechanical skills, searching for help.

I’ve had to replace the starter a couple of times. Every time I do it seems to take care of the problem until it doesn’t. Rinse and repeat. Its been 4 years now.

Guru9zmxyz, I still have my Jeep and was never able to fix the problem. I gave up on trying to fix it. I wish I could help you but I can’t. I had a few other Jeeps before I got this one but this is the least reliable vehicle I have ever had. I won’t buy a Jeep anymore for sure. Good luck to you.

@ricksterjeep07 I've been following this thread from when you first started it and obviously having the same issue. So sad that you couldn't figure it out. I feel for you and feel like I'm on this journey together with ya I'm gonna try the starter relay as a few suggested and hope that works!

05 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.7l. Wouldn’t start after driving for 30 minutes had to wait 10-20 minutes before startup. I tried heat shrouding the fuel rail. When I did this I seen some carbon built up in the throttle body. So I used some carburetor cleaner to clean it up. I put everything back together then the Jeep wouldn’t idle had to replace the idle air control valve test drove for awhile and both issues went away. Hopefully this is the end of this issue.

I have the same problem as the first long comment. I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. It was fine for a long time and these last few months I have had issues . I'll drive for a while , or I'll get gas and shut my car off, or go to the store... Come back out & it wants to start but it doesn't .. Some days I have no issues , sometimes it's everyday. I have to wait 20, 30 minutes for it to start back up . I took it to a mechanic and the same day I spent 500 to get it fixed , it did it again. I took it back & they can't figure out the problem still. There was one time very quickly it said "transmission over temp" but that was only once and never again .. i am stressed over here.

I replaced the EGR valve. It was pretty expensive. Had my mechanic do the work because it looked tricky for me. I'll give an update eventually if this fixed the problem or not.

Ok Christian. Ill be curious to know. Thanks

same problem. jeep grand cherokee wk2 2011 3ldiesel 241 cp. when the engine is cold it starts without problems. after 15 minutes of walking he is completely dead. then start again after it has cooled. I changed the electric motor, starting relay, but everything was the same. if someone solved this, maybe you can help me too. thank you. God bless you

I FOUND IT ! yes it is vaporlock! The problem is: you have a leak somewhere in the fuel system. Can be injectors or just the presure maker in the fuel tank (Sorry for my english). The presure drop in the fuel rails and since the gaz is not presurated anymore, it boilband turn to vapor! DO A LEAKING TEST ON THE FUEL RAIL . For me, it was the presuriser thing in the fuel pump. I changed it and its like brand new! No need to wait or cool down the fuel lines.

This gentleman explains the fix right here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTH-TASBH0Q

Well that sucks! Is there really no other fix besides a few paper clips to alleviate the heat? I hope someone else has a real solution to this, and not just put a bandaid over a bullet wound.

07 Laredo, been having same issues as OP. Including brief “transmission over temp” message. at first the rough start would correct itself after a few seconds, now it’s to the point of waiting anywhere between 30 mins-1 hour to restart properly when warm. I’ve had an entire new cooling system installed, new radiator, replaced the engine filter, & even brought it to the dealer to have the recalled ignition valve replaced. Unlike few other people here my car will start just extremely rough, engine not cranking all the way, misfiring like crazy. When this misfire happens i’ve gotten codes for fuel injector cyl 1 and cyl 4 (occurred at separate times) mechanics & myself unable to pinpoint the issue because the misfiring and engine code goes away after time. My mechanic mentioned an Auxiliary Transmission cooler (roughly $400-$500 little out of my price range atm to play process of elimination) so in the meantime i plan on using fuel treatments & higher grade gas to see how that affects the issue. Will update

Shaunanigans16 , is your jeep still running good after replacing that starter relay because I been having the same problem for a few a couple years now . Please let me know ?

I gave up. I changed everything I possibly could. At this point, it's a waste of money. When this happens I literally wait 10 to 15 minutes and she turns back on.

Before you start sinking $$$ into this issue try the method posted above by Shawn "...what I have figured out is once hot if I barely put my foot on the gas not full peddle down and not withholding any gas at all so there is a sweet spot, it will start every time." Whenever my 2007 Grand Cherokee refuses to start when hot I just put the key in the prime mode and I press the gas pedal a few times not even paying attention how deep and that has worked every time so far for the last year or so.

Thanks for the tip Thomas and Shawn. I'll try it next time.

I'm curious if anyone has got a recall for the Fuel pump relay? I have a 2013 grand cherokee that has this same issue for the last year and today I had my recall completed and I'm hoping that this solves this issue for me.

I have the same problem with my 2006 Jeep Grande Cherokee Laredo 2WD. I have just replaced the ECT Sensor, the starter relay and the gas cap. Total cost was $67, took for a drive and turned off the jeep for 10 minutes and was able to restart with no issue. I also am practicing the sweet spot on the pedal as well. I will let you all know if the problem stays a hidden.

Back to the same ole crap, seems the sweet spot works but just dealing with the issue and letting cool. Done dumping money into this vehicle, time to sell and stay away from Chrysler!

i had the same issue -spent years trying to fix. It turns out on my 07 grand cherokee that the fuel rail was getting hot causing a vapor lock. Let it cool down and the car started right up. We identified this by replicating the problem and instead of waiting for the car to cool down we hit the bleed valve on the fuel rail. Car started right up. Insulate the fuel rail or in my case my mechanic simply went to staples and got a bunch of binder clips that he affixed to the rail to act as heat sinks. Have not had any issues starting since.