CHRYSLER 2.7L V6 engine swap

Not exactly "100% compatible. You need to swap the following items from your original items as the PCM for the 2003 2.7 (SBEC) is different than the PCM from your newer Car (It's an NGC). You need to swap (From your 2006 engine to the 2003 engine you used): Flexplate (It has a different amount of windows on it for the Crank Position sensor to read). The Crankshaft Position sensor. Cam Tone Ring on right cylinder head. (it also has a different number / position of windows that are read by the Cam Position sensor). Those 3 items will keep the car from starting. ALSO, The 2003 most likely does not have the same fuel injectors as the new engine . The new engines use the flex fuel injectors in most cases. The car will start and run without these, but you will get check engine light and codes indicating a rich running condition. If so, replace the (fuel injectors - and most likely, your upper intake manifold). The lower intake should be fine. There are sometimes differences in the exhaust manifolds ( some engines do not have EGR valves). You most likely used the Controller and wiring harness from the ORIGINAL engine. IF not, you need to. That's pretty much the list.

How about the starter?

The starter is the same on the engines that the original post lists. I'm doing my 4th 2.7 swap right now. For others doing the swap: On this 4th swap, I'm Installing a 2005 NGC 2.7 into a 2004 SBEC 2.7 Convertible. For some reason, there is a lot of mis-information online regarding the swap. Many people state that the computer has to be "re-flashed", . That is not the case. I've never had to re-flash anything. Many say, you need to use the same exact model year engine. It's easier that way, but later engines are better, have some improvements. I prefer 2004-2006 2.7's There have been quite a number of changes over the years on the 2.7. The "Easiest" swap would be to use an engine from an identical year car which uses the same PCM as your current car. However in 2004, they used both systems so you need make sure the donor engine is the same. It's not impossible to swap engines that use the other PCM (I'M doing it myself for the 4th time) , but it's just a little more work to do so. You MUST make sure the following items are transferred from your OLD engine to the NEW ENGINE, IF the engines use different PCM's. : 1. FLEXPLATE / tone ring from the original engine. 2. CAM TONE Ring (Right side Cylinder Head) from original Engine, (If you are doing a new timing chain, WHICH I HIGHLY ADVISE while the engine is out of the car, the Sprocket and Tone Ring will come with the kit. (JUST MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE CORRECT TIMING CHAIN KIT for the year of your car. 3. Crank Position Sensor will sometimes need to be swapped from your old engine. (The CAM sensor is usually the same). 4. DO NOT GET RID OF YOUR OLD ENGINE, until you new engine is running, you may need parts from it. 5. I find it easier to remove the old engine. LEAVE THE ORIGINAL PCM in the CAR. With the old engine out of the car, remove the wiring harness (Most of it is disconnected anyway from the removal) and transfer the wring harness to the new engine. 6. People have tried to use the electronic components / engine etc "complete" from the donor car, but if your car had no "electrical / PCM Controller Problems etc, you can save a LOT OF HASSLES and TIME, by leaving your ORIGINAL PCM in the car, swapping the original engine wiring harness to the NEW ENGINE. REPLACE the TIMING CHAIN and guides, while the engine is out. REPLACE WATER PUMP. REPLACE Main timing chain tensioner. GOOGLE Chrysler 2.7 liter STOP BLOCK. Read about it. Get to Know it. Get to Love it. ORDER IT. And don't even think about putting the engine back in the car without it. BELIEVE ME when I tell you: If the engine you are putting in, has more than 60K miles since a water pump / timing chain replacement, you are wasting your time (and money), it WILL FAIL just like the old engine and you will be right back in the same situation real soon. 7. When the engine is out: Remove the oil pressure switch for the oil light. Buy the appropriate Brass T-Fitting Adapter and run an OIL PRESSURE GAUGE along with the "idiot" light. These engines throw the center 2 rods (or at the very least, the center 2 rod bearings always seem to be the ones that are scored, knocking the most, so if at all possible install the oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on oil pressure. When the water pumps leak, oil pressure drops, the tensioner fails and the bearing begin to destroy themselves. 8. USE SYNTHETIC OIL ALWAYS. CHANGE IT no later than every 5,000 miles. 9. Use header wrap on the portion of the exhaust the goes under the oil pan. It's cheap insurance. Will it rot out your exhaust pipe a little faster?? A little bit, but believe me, by the time you have your engine ready to come out, you're going to see how cheap the exhaust bolts are that Chrysler used and how JUNKY that pipe is anyway. You will (most likely) break those bolts off when removing the pipe during the engine swap and have to re-drill and tap the flange. Plan on doing that. I don't even try to loosen them any more, I torch them off or tighten them and they snap right off. If you are someone that is a little more "advanced". Consider installing a 2009 MOPAR / Chrysler 2.7 Oil Pan and the appropriate OIL PICKUP TUBE to go with it. The newer pans have a deeper sump, they hold more oil , and they have baffles in them (the original pan does not). I do this on all of my cars. The flat bottomed, shallow original pre 2008 2.7 oil pan is junk. There is virtually NO OIL in the pan when the car is running (mainly because there is no real oil restriction in the heads. In the Front wheel drive cars, oil sloshes side to side during turns and the pickup tube is uncovered, which sucks air. If you are as little as a 1/2 QUART low on oil, you are starving your engine for oil. With little oil in the pan, your oil is burning, sludging up etc at a very fast rate since it's being super heated by the exhaust pipe directly under it. Hope that helps everyone. I'll be doing a YouTube Video when I'm finished this last swap.

Thaaank you for the warning! Acquired a 2004 stratus recently, now seriously reconsidering tackling that engine!

You should start a blog for this process. You have priceless knowledge that seems to be hard to find in the time of need