4x4 Transfer case

Having basically the same problem. I have replaced the transfer case shift motor three times now. Eachb time this has temporarily fixed the problem. Have you had any luck figuring yours out? I am satrting to think there is a deeper problem.

I actually think that this is just an electrical problem as it stopped doing it after I disconnected the wiring from the transfer case motor. I have not had a chance to do anything as yet but am planning to rewire in the near future and will let you know what happens.

I have also disconnected my shift motor, once it had shifted back to 2wd. I talked to my local dodge dealer and they said it is probably an electrical issue also. I saw some other posts that said they replaced the integrated power module (which actually consists of the power distribution block and the front control module) and it did not fix the problem.Dodge says they'll "look" at it for $108 with no garuntee that they'll find it.

sounds like the electromagnetic clutch pack inside of the transfer case is acting up to me, the shift motor and that are controlled via the same 12V feed, any movement of the shift motor will trigger the 4x4 light to come on since the switch to illuminate the light is in the motor

I think it is more than that, Sometimes when I unlock the doors with the remote the shift motor activates. My Dodge dealer told me they have never replaced an integrated power module but whatever controls the door locks also controls the shift motor. Either an electrical short or bad module. Im just not sure how to find which it is.

Hi Mikem757. I think you are right about that one as I have the same thing happening when I unlock the doors with the remote. I will try to do the rewiring soon by starting at the 4lock switch, through an extra relay and then to the motor. I will keep you posted.

Hi Kram and Mikem757 - My 2005 Durango is doing EXACTLY what you are describing. The only thing I might add is that it also can not switch into 4LO since this problem started happening. When you switch the dial over to 4LO the SVC 4WD light just blinks. Dodge Dealer thought it might be an instrument cluster problem - they reprogrammed the cluster but the problem still exists. Any luck with rewiring?

Hi Guys - I use the existing wires from the switch and cut them as long as what I could get them out of the harness and introduced a three wire male and female plug with wire pigtails and extended the wires. I then cut off the plug that fits to the transfer case and joined it to the other end of the new wires. I now unplug it at the new plug that is easy to get at when I am driving on normal roads and plug it back when I want to use the 4x4 and it works for now. Cheers and safe travels.

Sorry Dan for only answering now. The problem with this is that no lights come on at all so no indication that vehicle goes into 4x4 on its own. Solved the problem for me by doing a rewiring job.

I have a 2004 durango AWD 5.7 hemi and the other day i notice the 4LO blinking while driving and when i unlocked my doors you could hear something engauging when the vehical was off... everywhere i call they have no idea what i am talking about or any advice on what i should do... have any of you had any luck getting your vehicals fixed? mine is AWD so i dont think disconnecting wires is an option

Hi Samanthawy. Disconnecting the transfer case does not change anything on your AWD system. Cheers Kram.

Mine has been unplugged for a couple of months now. It does not hurt a thing, but the service 4wdlight stays on. Better than the truck jumping in and out of 4wd by itself. It doesnot hurt a thing.

Has anyone been given a legitimate answer for this problem? I have the same issue with my 2004 Durango with the door locks and transfer case mysteriously engaging. It will even engage and disengage at random when sitting in my garage parked. I will disconnect my transfer case motor but I would rather just fix the problem.

I have not found an answer yet. Dodge should be held responsible for this problem, as it is not just one or two vehicles, but seems to be almost all 04- 05 durangos.. It seems like they should have an answer by now.

Has anyone found an answer to this problem.

Ive had the same issue,where is the plug located?I dont want to go back to dodge,one guy unplugged it for me,then another dummy put it back on.

hi everyone i have heard that since the truck does not have a transfer case control model or TCCM then the only thing that can be held responsible is the transfer case motor look into it thks.

OK so My 04 Dodge Durango Is doing the same thing with the 4x4 and weird sound when I lock/unlock the door but also My heater/AC is not durning off. When I turn it on its super low when I push OFF it goes on high. I had a mech put in a new transfer case and still nothing and he has no idea whats going on. So I see another mech tomorrow.Ill keep you updated..

In Sept 2011 I had my Transfer Case servo motor and Front Control Module replaced at a Dodge dealer. It cost a lot of money but it corrected the problem - no issues since. Of course the dealership claimed "they had never seen this problem before".

Please go to the form and dedicate a few minutes. My wifes Durango has started the 4lo issue. I think I am first going to try and do the disconnect. I really am unsure about replacing the TCM dishing out all that money to just maybe fix the vehicle. Seeing some of the more recent posts about how the problem can arise again after replacing the TCM. To all the others having this frustrating issue I am sorry. I found a form on safercar.gov and I thought maybe this is a good route to try and bring the issue to Chrysler's attention. Therefore, please help yourselves and others click the following link and dedicate a few moments of your time to fill out the form. https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

I am another owner of the 2005 Durango, I am also having this issue with the transfer case, when i unlock my doors i could here it transfer under the truck, now im in a jam i have a red neutral light on my truck and when i put it in gear the truck doesnt move at all,, can anyone that has had this issue, and has found the problem can you post what the issue was, i see alot of posts to what is thought to be the problem but is there anyone that actually found the problem thx.....

the problem is the transfer case motor alot of them have a wiring issue i replaced it and its now fixed

Can you tell me if the trans has to be dropped to get the tcm off?

I also have the same issue with my 2007 Durango with Hemi engine. The 4LO light flashes and, you can hear it switch under the car even when it is off. When, I unlock my doors you can hear it again. I have been reading posts about this issue and, to me it should be a recall. I don't want to change the Transfer case if, it is the wiring. Can, someone give me advice on if I should change the transfer case or just change the wiring.

I also have an issue when you turn the wheel all the way the car locks and, you cant move it.

Well i just got my truck back, it cost me 30.00 for it to be looked at, i will say that this issue isnt resolved, from what im reading here its being suggested to change the tranfer case motor, i would strongly recommend you dont do that i would say to have it looked at by someone who knows cars, my transfer case motor shifts on its own all the time the last time it happened i got the red neutral light on the knob... if this happens to you put the gear into neutral and theres a reset button where the neutral light is located the "Knob" it needs to be reset, ive been driving for 3 days and havent seen any lights back on. to reset it you need a pen or something pointy to reset it....

no you do not have to take down the tranny

the problem with turning might be your CV axle

04 durango 5.7 hemi, AWD...svc 4 wheel drive light is on. When we make a sharp turn going forward or backing...the rear tires lock up. Any suggestions???????

My 2005 Dodge durango 5.7 Hemi just started to make a shifting sound when the vehicle is turned off, then while turning it goes into 4wd. I'm going to try and do the wire disconnect because I have to get back and forth to work. Also, I have 1 other problem with my Dodge Durango... when filling up with gas, it must get an air bubble and backflows something aweful. I did call Dodge about that and they said it was already fixed under recall... could have fooled me because it is backflowing while pumping gas. I would like to hold Dodge accountable for these problems! Anyway y'all think we can file a class action lawsuit? Matt

bee man the gas backflowing on you was a recall and was fixed. heres what you do... tell them you just purchased the truck. they will fix it for free... the transfer case shifting on its own is BS i just got rid of the truck..

My durango is doing all these things and my dad called dodge in michigan and they told him to to print these comments and bring my durango registration to ta dealership and they would send it off to dodge and recall it. hopefully this is helpful, I really dont wanna get rid of my durango

My 06 is doing it also and sometimes the radio volume turns down on its own Let us know if you hear back from Dodge about it.

I was told today that's its the wiring cluster that runs the dash,bc that cluster operates everything, and its going out so its tellin my 4lo to engage and my lights on my radio went black and came back on. Said it was 635 dollars to fix and if that wasn't the problem then I would need to replace the front module box... Seems to me like I'm only gonna go further in the hole! Were considering trading it

My 2004 Durango is doing the EXACT thing that everyone else is complaining about!!!!! 4 wheel drive light comes on and then its like my brakes lock and hard to move ( usually at slow speeds and turning) then the light flickers off and on. I can hear it engaging and disengaging. I love my Durango other then this :( Dodge should recall since there is so many complaints!!!

I have a 2005 Durango AWD 5.7 with the same issues. The T-case motor is switching on its own regardless of the vehicle being on or off. It occasionally clicks with the actuation of the door locks or the dome light but mostly just while driving down the road. sometimes the dash light will blink 4Lo ither times 4Lock. usually after a bit of blinking the SVC 4WD light will come on. After pulling some diagnostic codes (I have a friend who has access to one) It was stating a "low voltage" at switch error. We got a wiring diagram and checked the voltage at the switch harness on the T case motora nd it was fine. We then took an Ohm reading at the Body control module with the T case motor plugged in. Going by the wiring schematic the Ohm reading should have been 3.5 but we were only getting 1.1 that leads me to believe that the motor has some sort of issue causing there to be too much resistance. I have been unable to locate a new T case motor to replace it though. everyone is out of stock even my local Dodge dealership says they can not get one. I will try and order one online. Tomorrow I will be unplugging the T case to see if that will get us by untill we can get a new motor. I will let you all know how this works out.

We unhooked the transfer case and it to just says service 4 WD and drives fine now. We did this bc dodge told us it was the dash board cluster and it was going out and but they couldn't gurantee that would fix the problem. So we just unhooked it.

Katie, Is your Durang AWD? or is it jut a 2wd 4wd model?

Limited durango 5.7 awd

My husband just unplugged the transfer case motor

Cool. I had some conflicting info about unplugging the transfer case motor on the AWD model some had said it could not be done. I figured it would be ok. Thanks for the info. I am still going to try and replace the tcase motor when I can find one. Also an FYI .The dash wiring cluster does not run the the transfer case motor. It is on the same fuse (circuit) but has nothing to do with controlling the transfer case motor. The Body Control Module Runs the transfer case motor. The problem we are having can only be caused by 3 parts. 1:The switch on the dash 2: The Body Control Module (this is located under the hood under the main fuse block) 3: The transfer case motor It can be other things such as a bad ground, bad wire, bad relay etc. As far as parts though the above 3 are it. If someone is trying to replace something else be careful.

Any luck yet Erik with getting and replacing the Tcase motor,just surious because I too am having same issues as everyone else.Also where do you unplug the transfer case motor.I too have the 2005 AWD,by unpluging this does it make it run as just a 2wd? or will it still drive as AWD? Thanks

No luck getting the tcase motor replaced as of yet. The plug to disconnect is on the top of the tcase motor under the vehicle. When unplugged your AWD model will stay in its last position. Make sure its not stuck in 4LO or 4Lock when you unplug it. After that the SVC 4WD light will come on but it will still be AWD.

I have a 06 dodge Dakota and the transfer case will engage by itself driving. Sometimes it would engage into neutral when driving. It would engage just by locking and unlocking the doors. So I just got tired of getting no answer to the problem and just pulled out the fuse , so now all I have to do to use my 4x4 is to install the fuse. Light still come on but better then losing my drive line.

@06dodge..my 05 dakota is making a sudden little jerk and grind while drivin...especially under 45mph. The serv 4x4 light flashes for a couple secs too...I looked for the fuse and only found 1 that shares with my instruments and blinkers...I could unplug the motor like every1 else is doing but would rather just pull a fuse. could u tell me where u found it? thnx

I have a 2003 dodge Durango that shifted to 4 wheel drive on its on and the button has not been messed with...I have tried un hooking the battery to reset computer like someone told me to try and it didn't work...I have tried switching to 4 wheel drive and out and that doesn't work either.

05 DURANGO 4X4 4.7L having same 4x4 issue as others. Even when vehicle is sitting in driveway turned off, overnight i can hear the transfer case motor engage / dis-engage, to the point that my battery will be dead in the morning... thought I had a battery issue, replaced with new battery.. transfer case issue persists.... I also just unplugged the transfer case, have had it that way for over 1 year, drives great with no issues... just remember to put di-electric grease on the electrical transfer case plug prongs then tape over it so you dont have any issues when it rains and you will get an electrical issue where the 4wd switch inside will show the N neutral red light on... Hope Dodge fixes this issue, the 2wd alternative limits my travels and drivers assurance when I paid for AWD / 4WD https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm add your frustration to this link and cross your fingers for a well deserved recall

Same problem with my 2005 Hemi Durango. Case has been unplugged for 2 years now. Any recalls would be great. Could really use the 4WD back in the winters around here.

Same problem with our 8Cyl 2005 Durango. Thanks for all the tips. We live in California now vs. the East coast and don't need FWD for the time being. SO... We'll disconnect the motor. Very disappointed that Dodge doesn't take responsibility for the fix

Everyone that is having transfer case problems needs to call the national highway safety at 1-888-327-4236. They need to file a complaint with them as they are the ones who will determine if a recall is needed. Enough complaints and something will happen.

My 05 5.7 liter does the same thing and also does the locking up and grinding when you turn... I do a lot of driving on the hwy and across traffic and its really scary... Has anyone know if the 4low light and clicking on and off has to do with the locking up when turning or is it maybe a separate issue?

It's the same issue. Please call the numbers listed above. We need a recall.

Mine is a Dakota and I am fighting with dodge right now. It does the same as all the Durango's and dodge says they never heard of the problem.Thats why the need to call the nhtsa and file with them. I hope every one calls and DODGE is forced to make it right.

I will be calling that number to complain. Its been since last year that my 4x4 stopped working and I bought a new 4x4 transfer case and still nothing which sucks with me living in Colorado and winter is right around the corner. Also a new problem i'm having with my 04 dodge durango is the crankshaft position sensor keeps going out making my car go 10 mpg only, really sucks. I just might sell my durango soon.

We just purchased an 05 a month ago and this issue just happened to me yesterday. I was turning into a parking space and it felt like someone was pushing on the brake when I wasn't, then the lights for the AWD etc kept switching. When I got home, I parked in driveway and there was a clicking sound. Can this cause a serious accident on highway? I have 3 children and I am concerned, fortunately I drive within a 5 mile radius on side roads, but what if I were on the 70 mph highway?

Hey Carrie, I really don't know if it will couse a problem on the high way but just to be safe you should remove the 4x4 trasfer case untill you can get it fixed..I had my 4x4 transfer case replaced and my 4x4 still doesn't work. Good luck

If it goes into 4 lo as mine did it can cause you to loose control. I went to dodge and they want 80.00 an hour to look at it. Said they never heard of the problem and did not know what to do. Left my truck for two hours and they never moved it from where I parked it. Going to trade on a Honda.

Carrie, read the thread. It is an issue we are all dealing with. A few responses up you will see a phone number to report this issue. By doing this, we can hope to force a recall.

I did call this am but I am a little disappointed that the paperwork I will need to fill out will take 4-6 weeks to get to my mailbox according to the lady. I did give her info of my complaint.

Hey Carrie, I filed a complaint online at national Highway traffic safety administration. You can also look up recent recalls on your car.

As far as i know. Your durango will not engage 4LO at highway speeds. It will try to but mechanically it will not be able to. However if it engages 4LO prior to reaching highway speeds you will run the risk of serious damage and possible catastrophic failure. Until you get this fixed you need to unplug the transfer case motor or have someone do it for you just make sure it is in AWD before you unplug it as it will stay where it is when unplugged. I did this to my wife's and it was fine for almost a year until we got rid of it. If you plan to get it fixed i wish you good luck and plan on a lot of return trips to the garage and a lot of them telling you its "all fixed now". We tried a new transfer case motor twice a new switch and finally just gave up.

You are almost right. Mine started a grinding sound at 70 ,lo light was flashing, when I hit the brakes it went into low. A real thrill ride. Unpluged the motor and this truck is going before someone gets hurt.

As much as I wanted this 04 durango limited, I cant wait to get rid of it. 4x4 don't work, heater/ac went out, crank shaft sensor keeps going out, and now I had to have the pcm flashed after paying a $1000 to get it to run right I am now selling it. Good luck durango owners and keep an eye out for recalls there are over 400 complaints on the national highway website.

Here is my experience and what I would recommend: 1. Our 2005 Dodge Durango with the 5.7L engine demonstrated the following problem before repair. They following caused spontaneous symptoms: Fob caused shifting/activation of shift motor, opening doors caused shifting/activation of shift motor, down the road 4LO blinking, down the road 4WD SVC light blinking, down the road 4LOCK activation, 4LOCK in slow turns, and turning “Ignition on” shifting/activation of shift motor. 2. These problem can be caused by the car’s computer (Front Control Module [FCM]), the Instrument Cluster (wiring is routed through it), the Transfer Case itself, the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor, the Wiring Harness, and the Transfer Case Switch. Almost all the individual components can give dozens of error codes to be evaluated. This is not an easy problem to track down! 3. First, find a dealer you can communicate with and trust. The first dealer I talked with said I was basically an idiot. I left and found one that would listen to me. Respectful communication is needed both way to solve this problem. 4. Set warranty/guarantee terms up front from the dealer. Understand each other; not being timid to ask questions. My dealer said that his dealership guaranteed labor/diagnostics and parts with a one year warranty. Shake hands with the company reps with whom you are dealing which includes the mechanic. This saved me $190 in labor and $1,000 for a FCM that was not the problem. 5. Do the basic things first. Make sure your battery is in top condition; replace it if it is not. Have the unit serviced so you have clean oil in the transfer case, 6. Your dealer may want to connect their diagnostic computer to your interface socket of your car and read codes. This did not work in my case since the problem requires deeper data collection/evaluation (by reading codes, my dealer said the FCM was the problem [see 4]). 7. Ask your dealer if you can use the recording module (Flight Recorder) that attaches to your computer interface socket and then drive the car (we used the recorder over the weekend) gathering data (understand it is expensive, so the company may want a deposit if you don’t return it [ours did not]. When a problem occurs (for example 4LO starts blinking in the Instrument Cluster), you push the activation button on the recorder. The recorder goes back in stored history recording 1 minute of past events and then records 1 minute more after you pushed the botton capturing 2 minutes of total data. It captures all the running/code information! We gathered 17 different events (we kept a log of the events). The mechanic then analyze what was going on (previously every time we took the car into a mechanic, the car was on best behavior and would not show any problem). After gathering 17 events, the mechanic had 34 minutes of the car failing in some aspect that he reviewed as if it were happening in real time with the mechanic on hand. Plus he could “Play it again, Sam,” 8. After looking at the data, the dealer’s mechanic said all errors pointed to the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor (remember, in the beginning when stored codes were used, it was the FCM). Specifically, the Mode Sensor was not telling the system what was going on and sometimes even lied about the Shift Motor’s position. 9. A short time later, the repaired car was returned with a new Shift Motor/Mode Sensor and, to date, not one problem. A caution, we are also waiting to find out if something caused the Mode Sensor to fail. After a physical examination of the unit, it appears all the problems originated from the Mode Sensor! Remember, this was our case so your failure could be another component.

I too have been experiencing the same issues with my 04 Durango with only 60k miles. First signs of the transfer case motor failing was the service 4wd light. Starting off blinking here and there, then went steady and locked in 4wd. Took it to the Dodge dealer and they said the motor was failing. $1100 for a new Dodge OEM part. Crazy! Finding a 2 speed motor is next to impossible, but found one on RockAuto for a fraction of the cost, $150 - but all remanufactured. Cannot find a new part anywhere. So I went with the reman part. Light went off and truck drove fine - for about a week. Service 4wd light is back on. Took it back to the dealer and they say this new part is starting to fail. Not sure how they determine that. After reading all these threads I'd rather not go and get a new part and have the same issue happen again and again. I filed an online complaint with the NHTSA and hope Dodge finally recalls this mess. I asked the dealer if they can just disconnect the motor and they said it can be done. Fortunately I'm still in AWD mode and I pray it just stays there. Are there any potential issues with the unplugged tcase motor as long as it's still in the AWD mode? For as long as I have owned this truck, I have never used 4 high or lo. Just kept in AWD.

We have an '05 Durango with the same issues. The xfer case went into 4WD on its own; usually after a tight turn or slick surface. Some times 4W low. Then it wouldn't go back until it decided to do so on its own. Typically once every few days. We read the forums (thanks all), filed an NTSB complaint and called our Dodge dealer friend - close friend. He had the service manager call me and confirm that he was comfortable with the fix of disconnecting the xfer case motor. That took 10 minutes. He said disconnect it at the motor (attached to the xfer case, front driver's side). Then zip tie it or otherwise secure it to avoid touching the exhaust. That did it; problem solved. The 4WD service light stays on but.... We don't care. If we ever need 4WD again it would require reconnecting it and hoping it would work. But that's not in our foreseeable future and not worth the $. We're relieved and of course disappointed with Dodge.

Thanks for all the replies! The dealership I bought it from (not Dodge) towed it to a dodge dealership and had motor replaced at no cost to me. I also put a complaint in to safety place and am hoping for the best outcome. Don't know how long this new motor will last, but if it breaks again I will just have it unplugged. Live in CO so having 4WD would be nice to keep!

I'm having this problem too. wish i could pull a fuse but dont' see it in the manual unless it's tied to some other stuff.. i'll file a complaint too online

I have a 2004 Durango AWD an it just switches into 4WD outta nowhere is there a wire is can disconnect in really need it fixed

My dealer disconnected the transfer case wire because this is the 2nd time the motor went bad. Fortunately this time its locked in the standard AWD mode (before slid into 4wd). Instead of buying another motor and chancing another fail, I asked them to just disconnect it. Service 4wd light stays on, but dealer said it's safe and fine to drive. In your case, 4wd will eat up your tires and gas. Rock Auto has remanufactured motors under $200. Dealer wanted over $1000 for OEM.

Don't understand cost of the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor # 5143477AA which my dealer sold for $410.80 (new OEM).

OEM $1000+ for transfer case motor - but 2 speed. The 2 speed motors have been hard to find, except when remanufactured. Can't find anything new, that fits this year/model. My 2004 Durango has a switch selector for 4 Hi and 4 Lo. Always stays in AWD.

aburgess11...Hey man! Thanks so much for your post. I may still have the problem with the TCCM (transfer case control module) but without the knowledge of the reset switch at the 2wd 4wd 4Lo knob i.e. to the left of the "N" neutral indicator light and how to use it. I would have towed my truck home. For the sake of other that find this post, start the vehicle, drop it in neutral and with the knob in 2wd use a pen pressing or operating the button and the light will blink and voila the transmission comes back after the motor operates a couple times. I can now drive the Dakota again. Otherwise as an fyi, I too use my key fob and hear the TC motor operate on its own and then see the Svc 4wd light come on and off along with the 4Lo light do the same driving down road at times even trying to engage! Not cool. If the motor tries to engage while stopped the truck will not want to turn well being on dry pavement and it being in 4wd anything. I'll be calling the national highway safety at 1-888-327-4236 as well as checking for any recalls. Thanks again! ( I owe you more than a few beers!! lol )

I found this post and thought it Might help http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/2006-truck-going-into-4-low- its-t307082p3.html I'm calling this problem RESOLVED. I touched base with the tech that did the last work on my truck. What he did was a 'pin test' where he removed the TIPM connection that leads to the TC actuator. Several pins were not gripping like they should. I guess what this entails is inserting a pin in each electrical connection and seeing how much resistance it has against pulling the pin out. The tech said several connections has very little grip on the pin. He tightened those connections so they would grip the pin on the pigtail better, then coated everything with dielectric grease and I have had no problems since then. They recommend removing all pigtails from the TIPM and checking all connections and greasing everything. I hope this helps someone with the same problem down the road. Before you replace the TIPM or TC motor assembly, check the electrical connections at all the pigtails and make sure the connection is solid. Add dielectric grease and see if that resolves the issue. I wonder how many TIPM's were replaced unnecessarily???

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/2006-truck-going-into-4-low-its- t307082p3.html

Good info from gbgogreen As I said in my post, there are many things that can cause this problem.

I have a 2004 Durango and had numerous electrical related problems. Interior lights wouldn't go off, warning lights would light up dash, certain functions would not work. I found Dodge had a recall on the instrument cluster. They had reprogrammed mine at first, did not work and subsequently replaced twice. Fixed most of my problems. You might want to look into the instrument cluster recall for at least the 2004's.

My 2006 Durango SLT 5.7 hemi just started having this same problem. Very frustrating as one issue is no one believes me when I tell them it is going into 4wd on its own. My ex- husband who is a journeyman HD mechanic checked all wiring and did the di-electric grease thing, but it is still doing it and the problem has gotten worse. Yesterday I stood outside and turned on the command start - wouldn't you know it, I could hear the transfer case shifting and my vehicle was OFF. Then today I went to pull out of a parking spot and it just revved when put into gear. I noticed the red N light on and thank god I read on here about how to reset it. Now I suppose we start changing parts out? I live in Northern Canada and this problem scares me!! Thankfully I have a second vehicle so now I need to decide whether or not I drive it the 200 kms to my ex husband and get him to disconnect the wires to the TC, or do I park it and let it sit for now? Is it even safe to drive with ith doing this? And why won't Dodge issue a recall? One search of the internet reveals this is a very common Dodge problem!!

Thank you for the suggestion, I finally found a mechanic who is willing to dsconnect the transfer case wires for now, so the vehicle is at least safe to drive. I will have the fix done at a later time, for now I just need it safe to drive.

Have the 05' AWD which is suppose to sense slip and go into AWD? Had a couple inches of snow the other day and it did nothing? Didn't go into anything and just had rear wheel drive, no lights on the dash, no going out into the snow. I bought it in the summer and the lady said she slipped on ice once and a light came on on the dash and it went into AWD....any answers? I don't like the fact there's no way to switch it into 4x4 on my own....

This is a Dodge Durango forum. To my knowledge the Dodge in '05 is constant AWD. Since you did not state the make of your "'05 AWD", what is the make. If not a Dodge, I suggest joining a forum for your specific make.

Yeah, it's an Dodge forum that's why I posted here, your worthless answer was expected, only I didn't realized it would be to that extent...Thank you clearing up what site this is.....WOW!!!

To “theowat1” As Forest Gump once said, “Stupid is as stupid does.” Oh, one other, not said by Forest, “To get professional help, all you have to do is pay for it!” I certainly was not trying to waist you valuable time when you were seeking free information! First, I want to thank the people who post to this forum. In my case, after my dealer said I could not possibly have a problem with my transfer case, I found that many do. These good people, sometime in frustration, are simply posting experiences and possible explanations to problems relating to the Dodge Durango AWD vehicles. Thank you for your efforts! In your original post, we must assume (a mechanic defined “assume” as making an “ASS” out of “U” and “ME” [please don’t call me an “ass”) your “05’ AWD” is a Dodge Durango with AWD (these same basic units are also on pickups). To have really specific help, one needs to post the Year, Make, Model, Engine Size, & since more than one transfer case is available, the transfer case model (or the selections available on the Transfer Case Switch since this will clue the model) that you have in your vehicle. You left some clues in your post that caused me questions; therefore my post. Since I am not a professional trained mechanic (I’m just doing some “payback” for the help I got), and just a layman with my real life experiences, if I error here, I certainly am not trying to be “worthless” to you since I am spending my time to help you, a rather, to say the least, short tempered and negative individual. Let’s revise Forest’s quote as “Worthless is as worthless does.” First, to my knowledge (Online Repair Manual ’05 Dodge Durango 5.7L AWD [ALLDATAdiy.com the one AutoZone uses]), the transfer case does not “…sense slip and go into AWD?” By the above noted manual, they are all “constant” AWD meaning their default running modes is in AWD (distributing power to All Wheels Drive[ing]). As per the above manual, there is no 2WD option on an AWD model. As inferred by your above statement, it means leaving 2WD to engage AWD. Although not impossible, it would be a difficult and more expensive engineering problem to solve since one would have two sets of wheels turning at different speeds trying to peacefully engage each other. In fact, the manual says not to manually shift from AWD to 4LOCK, for example, if the wheels are spinning at different speeds (actually the car’s computer can stop engagement). Second (see following about the missing knob issue), they do make 2WD models of the Durango (this is a tough one), are you sure you have AWD (yes I know I am worthless), but did your previous owner snooker you and sell you a 2WD model? Third, in my AWD Durango, I have a BIG knob on my dash that allows me to select “AWD, 4LOCK, 4LO and Neutral.” Not all knobs have such a wide range of selections, a second transfer case model only have “AWD and 4LOCK,” but as you see, both have a knob and you say yours doesn’t because you state, “…there’s no way to switch it into 4x4...”! Also note in the possible selections, no 2WD option is available! Fourth, When in AWD, as per the manual and my operational AWD vehicle, the Durango shows “…no lights on the dash…” Only in alternate transfer shifted modes, as noted above, do light appear on the dash. But you say you do not have a knob to turn. WOW, so you see, your post left some questions for me. Well, hope this finds you well and have a Happy New Year. Hope you resolve your problems!!

It appears that theowat1 is simply a tool.If he would have read many of the replies he may not have posted such a vague post. I got my questions answered by going thru the posts. In my case there really was no answer other than to save lots of money and disconnect the transfer case to avoid it going into lo.Don't let one moron keep you from helping others My Input

To Fredmonds Thank you for your post and comments.

I've had my transfer case disconnected for several months now with no issues (not that I'd expect one) on my '04 Durango SLT. Light stays on, no big deal. At least it drives the way it should in AWD. This may be a dumb question: would the light being on cause any problems with getting the vehicles annual state safety inspection (Virginia)? In my opinion, I'll say now as I can't imagine it being of any safety concern. Thanks.

Anyone know which individual wire I could cut and add an inline toggle switch? From the plug that goes into the TCM, I'd like to just run a switch inside so I can turn it on when I need 4WD, then shut it off so it doesn't engage when I don't...

Shawn - Post your email address and I will send you a diagram at the Selector Switch. The top portion of the page is blank so scroll down.

mammothgraphics@gmail.com -Thanks!

I have a 2004 AWD Dodge Durango limited with 5.7 Hemi. I went to pull my dad out of a snow bank and locked it into 4 lo and I could hear it engage and went to pulling him and bang the front end blew apart like an egg. Cracked the case on the front diff and destroyed it. So I found another one and replace it with the 3.55 gears got it all done and now it sounds like the transfer case is not fully engaging all the way and is grinding under acceleration. My wife loves this vehicle but I can say this is the biggest P.O.S I have ever owned. I wash it all the time and it stays in a heated garage and its rusting over the drivers side wheel well and under the doors... The kicker is she is the only one that drives it and its just a back and fourth work car and to the store. I have never switched it to 4 hi or 4 low either since I bought it.

If you had enough torque to blow apart your front end, it is possible the transfer case is also damaged. Not to the point of see external damage but causing internal component bending, binding or damage. Drain and check the oil in the transfer case for metal filings with a magnet through the drain plug and in the drain pan. Change the oil in the transfer case at the same time since the old oil may be contributory to the problem. After the oil change, exercise the shifting to see if you can detect any sound difference. You say you have a "grinding" sound "under acceleration," how about no acceleration and deceleration and 4LO & 4LOCK? An old saying in carpentry is measure twice and cut once. Since your front end was in parts, I am sure you match the proper ratio of the two ratios that are available, but it will take a second to double check.

I split the transfer case last night thinking the chain was jumping teeth or the chain stretched and that was not the case everything looked good in the case and no metal shavingsand all the gears looked good inside.. The ATF was not as pink as I thought it should be but not brown either. I think my next step is to check the transfer case motor that shifts the high and low range. I think that might be the culprit and it is not engaging fully . I can brake torque it and get it to slip so I think that might be it.. When it does it there is no output from the front of the transfer case nor the rear.

Another stupid design I noticed that when I changed the front diff is that it is mounted to the side of the engine block so I account that to blowing the front diff. The motor is trying to torque one way while the diff is trying to torque the other way and something had to give.. And the front cheezy aluminum diff was the weak link. This is the first time that I have ever tried to pull with it to and more than likely the last time ... LOL

If you want info on the SECTOR ANGLES vs. TRANSFER CASE POSITION, send me your email.

I have been reading the post and have the same issues. Very frustrated!! 2005 dodge Durango. Bought the truck less the a month ago. Problem with the 4wd started shortly after I had the manifold fixed..that the dodge dealership somehow missed on the safety...along with the bald ass tires..but that's another issue.Car has been at the garage for past 10 days and still not fixed. Started with DVD played sound cutting in and out, then drivers window wouldn't always respond, next dome light stopped working then the 4wd service light would flash followed by it switching between 4hi and lo etc on its own. I also heard it switching under the car when it's turned off.Started by them hooking it up to the computer telling me the cluster needed programming. Nope.. Needed to be replaced....fixed the dome light etc but still switching to 4h 4l etc. so let see what tomorrow brings... $1000 so far..from what I understand the next thing they plan to change is the transfer motor. They said disconnecting it is not good for the vehicle. I just bought this truck with less then 100000km on it..to drive the truck not visit it at the garage every two days. And Chryslers response? None, shocking

Read my first post labeled MyInput especially about dealing with the dealership. Hooking up the shop computer by my dealer did no good. The FCM (Front Control Module the cars main computer) was diagnosed to be bad; it was not. Notice that my dealer gave my credit for the new FCM they installed and the labor. Only after the dealership hooked up their recording module (They called it a Flight Recorder) and allowed me to drive the car with the unit, did they find out what was wrong. The recording module recorded 17 different events. After capturing the events, they were able to analyze the problem multiple times (not just look at one occurrence) and came up with the conclusion that it was the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor (all one unit) that was the problem. The dealer sold me a new Shift Motor/Mode Sensor OEM # 5143477AA for $410.80. Reading a post from gbgogreen said he found the problem in the wiring connectors at the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor. They were simply loose and once he tighten them, everything worked.

So a few questions if you don't mind: Girl question: is the FCM the same thing as the cluster? How long ago did you have it fixed? Im just my wits end with this truck. After days it was supposed to be Dione and now it's really no further ahead. Even though I'm in the great white north I never see myself using the 4x4. It's a beautiful truck but if it doesn't work ?

The FCM (front control module) on my 05 Dodge Durango w/ the 5.7 L engine is mounted on the driver side of the motor compartment under the hood on the fuse/circuit breaker which includes two plastic boxes that if opened is full of circuits and fuses/breakers. This is the main computer in the car and is relative small unit mounted on the face of the forward most fuse box. My stock unit was unpainted, molded steel. To my knowledge, the word cluster is associated only to the “instrument cluster” that is inside your car which, of course, includes all you instruments readings. My manual says that the instrument cluster also includes the hardware and software necessary to serve as the electronic body control module. Since hardware and software is included, it seems logical that it could need programming. My dealer examined the instrument cluster but they were looking only for signs of electrical arching that could cause electrical resistance to the flow of current. Also searching my manual for the word “cluster” only refers to “instrument cluster.” My work was done September 2013 and have not had one problem with the unit since. At its worse, the transfer case shifted for about ten minutes. My manual says that if things go really nuts it can overheat and protection circuitry will shut the unit down. We suspected electrical heat due to the smell of the unit. As I said, this is complicated with many possible causes. When my shift motor/mode sensor, when removed, was shook back and forth it made all kinds of noise that I was told it was not supposed to be doing. After running the recording module (Flight Recorder per the mechanic), which connects to your data port, things started to happen in a productive manner. You simply push the button when you have reason to believe the vehicle is not working correctly. It records one minute from stored history and one more minute in real time. As I said in my post, I got 17 recordings which was 34 minutes of data. The mechanic went from, “We think it is the….” to “All the data points to the shift motor/mode sensor.” I have not researched it out but I think the computer stores only 60 seconds of data for each field. With the recording device, you get 120 seconds and multiple readings. Another big problem I had was that the car, of course, was usually on its best behavior and would not fail when the mechanic was driving it. And where is the “…great white north…?”

driving with the transfer case electrical connector unplugged is fine. Just makes sure your truck is in AWD before you unplug it.

bought my 05 durango new Sept 04. Had a little problem every once in a while with the radio being staticky. Only other issue was the gas tank recall. Then last September, at random times, a bell dings, the awd light goes on and the vehicle shifts into 4wd. After bringing it to 3 mechanics, I have no solution. Initially I was told to confirm that the pressure in the tires was equal (it was) and then I was told to back up quickly 500 or 600 feet to disengage (didnt work). One problem is that I drive it to the mechanic stuck in 4wd, the mechanic starts it to check it, the vehicle is no longer in 4wd. One mechanic drove it til it was almost out of gas hoping it would shift back into 4wd so he could attempt to diagnose the issue. The dealer now suggests leaving the car with him so he can drive it around til it shifts and stays in 4wd. He said to find a time when he can have the car for 2 weeks. My concern is that this fix is going to be quite costly since it seems like it will be more of a trial and error. However, I can't continue to drive this vehicle with it shifting in and out of 4wd randomly. I have also noticed a strange noise when i press the "unlock' button on my key - again its random. I have read all of the posts above and to be honest, I would love if someone would be kind enough to summarize any possible solution so i can print it out this forum and bring it with me to the dealer.

Since you have read all the posts, you can see that many different failures can cause the problems that are manifested in many different ways. So one answer does not cover all the possible failures. You mention “dealer” but did not qualify the dealer as a “Dodge Dealer.” Although I cannot verify the statement, my Dodge dealer said that their computers and PC computer software are Dodge specific and therefore are better able to diagnose the problem. As I said in my original post, “Ask your dealer if you can use the recording module (Flight Recorder) that attaches to your computer’s interface socket in the car. This recorder unit can then record many more failures than the car’s computer can store. You (not the mechanic) then drive the car (we used the recorder over the weekend when the dealer was closed) gathering data (understand that the “recording module” it is expensive, so the dealer may want a deposit if you don’t return it [ours did not]). When you are driving the car, and a problem occurs (for example 4LO starts blinking in the Instrument Cluster), you push the activation button on the recorder. The recorder goes back in stored history recording 1 minute of past stored information and then records 1 minute more after you pushed the button capturing 2 minutes of total data. It captures all the running/code information! We gathered 17 different events (we kept a hand written log of the events).” Again, the onboard computer in the car stores relative little data and then the oldest is overwritten by the most recent occurrence. After we returned the car with the recorder still attached, they then downloaded the 34 minutes of data into their PC computer and evaluated it. As your car has done, our car would NOT demonstrate the failures when the mechanic drove it. Since we were driving the vehicle with the recorder attached over the weekend when the dealer was closed, the dealer was not inconvenience or did they lose use of their recorder. We recorded events after they closed Saturday and returned it first thing Monday morning. After we gather the data, they had an answer as to what was causing the problem within hours. Although they had the vehicle for 6 days prior to our using the recorder, they: 1) misdiagnosed the problem, 2) they could not get the car to fail, 3) they tore apart things that they did not have to tear apart. The key was the massive amount of data that the recorded provided so the mechanics could evaluate all the occurrence on a desktop PC! Best advice – use the Dodge provided recorder; you do the recording of the information since the car will most likely fail with you driving since you drive the car in a manner that makes it fail.

I just picked my the truck on Saturday and so far no issues, but its only Monday so :0 Here is what they found. Initially they though that it was the Cluster that was the issue since it was not only the 4 wheel issue but also the dome light, the radio sound would fade in and out, the dvd sound would fade etc and it was found to be burnt out. It fixed everything except the 4 wheel issue. They did some further testing and found that it was the Transfer Case, It was overheating and shorting out and because of that it fried the CLuster since it is connected. He said that if you dont use the 4 wheel drive it can seize up and eventually cause this problem. (which makes sense) The person who owned it before rarily if ever used it since they lived in the city. He said that I should put it into 4 lo and 4 hi every one in a while to prevent this from happening again. Lets hope this is it since it was a $1500 fix.

This issue with the 4-lock and lo that randomly lives it own lift happend to me the day after I installed a new "china made" stereo with tv, navigation, back-up cam etc etc. This stereo was also shutting down if I open the door, og the light sensor for the automatic driving light (Norway) changed from night to day and day to night. I then understood this "china electronics" had screwed up something in my electrical system. I put bac in my old OEM stereo, but too late. It is better now. It anly happens one or two times a week instead of every day, but I guess I will have to change the "front control module" to solve the problem. I can disconnect the cable from the transmission and still have 4WD or AWD. The only thing I will be missing is to lock the diff for the front wheels, and the lo series I never use..... Has anyone else had this experience with "china electronics" ?? Happy Durango owner from Norway

Hello everyone, I'm frusterated yet glad to see so many others having the same ridiculous experiences that I am. Rather than go into extensive details about my problems, I'm going to attempt to focus on what i have tried, narrowed down and ruled out... This is going to be very long but I honestly believe its worth the read... (I have an '06 ram 1500 4wd - same Transfercase parts that most of you have) First the cause of my particular problem - my rear tires went into a ditch when turning around on a 1 lane road, let off the accelerator flipped my switch to 4wd high - thought it was engaged pressed the accelerator, the truck went bang (literally made a bang sound) i let off the gas the truck shifted into 4hi i got out of the ditch drove 50ft put back into 2wd and the Serv 4WD light came on. First replaced the the transfer case motor - this cleared the light but then would not lock into 4hi or 4low. Took it to a dodge dealer they gave me the ol' "we've never seen this but our guess is.....and if it doesnt fix it you still owe us.." that everyone else got. They were leaning towards the Front Axle Disconnect Actuator - I was too so I told them to go for it, they did it now started working however on my way home from the dealership the 4low light randomly came on flashing ( while in 2 wheel drive) then went out, i immediately let them know they said bring it back when you can, still started doing more research before i took it back and decided to check the transfercase motor i bought from napa before i took it back to dodge, good thing i did the piece of shit connector they used was busted and the wires were coming off internally, i thought certainly this is the problem. As a note the inside of the transfer case motor only had 5 wires but the wiring harness has 7 wires - this seems suspicious to me as 2 of the missing wires for "Mode Sensor" wires. So I had it replaced under warranty despite the bad feeling about the lack of internal wires...a week later the light came back again. Took it back to the dodge dealership and they finally gave me 2 codes. C140D - Transfer Case Motor Control Circuit Open C1405 - Transfer Case Motor Range Position Sensor Circuit High Code Definition for C1405: When monitored with the ignition on, the battery voltage range between 9.0vdc (Volts D.C.) and 16.0vdc. The TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module) detects 5.0vdc on the transfer case range position sensor signal circuit for 2.0 seconds or more when voltage should NOT be present. Possible Causes: Mode Sensor signal circuit open Sensor ground circuit open Mode sensor signal circuit shorted to voltage Transfer case (4wd) switch TIPM Failure I talked to 3 different dodge dealerships in town and all 3 gave me the exact same response. "If your TIPM is going bad our scanner will pump out about 4-5 pages of codes, so the chances of your TIPM being bad and you only have a couple codes are pretty much nill" I have had this nagging feeling for awhile that its possible the 4wd selector switch is going out, once i saw this as a possibility on the code cause list, it has really made me suspicious. I did some research on the switch (the little rotator knob most of you/us have 2wd awd 4wd 4auto 4low etc) is more than a little rotating nob, it seems as though there is actually a little control board behind that switch there is also a 7-wire harness that not only connects it to the cluster but also the TIPM. I have literally read through every single post in this thread and no one had made mention of replacing this switch yet, and no one had put out a definitive fix for it yet. It seems suspect to me that everyones been replacing the same parts with no resolution ( TIPM's TCM's Clusters etc) but no mode select switches. After reviewing all of the wiring diagrams, schematics and pinouts from chrysler, i have it narrowed down to 3 things + 2 wild cards. #1 - Mode Select Switch - seems like a viable culprit for reasons stated above. #2 - Remanufactured transfer case motors not being compatible ( as explained above) #3 - electrical short - nicked or opened wire getting corroded or shorting with another wire ( Seems unlikely every single person in the thread has the same nicked/corroded wires causing the spaz out of the system) WILDCARDS: #4 - A/C Pressure sensor short as stated in post #2 ( http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/2006-truck-going-into-4-low- its-t307082.html ) #5 - Poor pin contact in wiring harnesses as stated in post #36 ( http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/2006-truck-going-into-4-low- its-t307082p3.html ) I will be testing each of these theories - I will be doing them one at a time so that in the event that i find the solution I can share it with everyone and hopefully save everyone some money and migraines. I will report after change with details - success failure. Hopefully anyway..

I found this recall this morning and thought it was worth mentioning.. http://www- odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults;jsessionid=Nkz6S67bCQC8rg v7hnDk1W931vFh9pL4s9Qk9L3WpQ4vybGKcJSG!565001124

Just wanted to put an update out.. when i replaced my transfer case motor i purchased a remanufactured one from napa - it was rebuilt by A1Cardone. After the first one i got from napa i experienced the motor shifting on its own as well as going into 4 low while i was trying to drive in 2wd, i had a local dealership state they suspected that T-case motor was bad, so i replaced it under warranty with napa, when i took the first one off i noticed the connector was busted - i put the second one in and dealt with the same issue again, i took it to the dealership and they gave me the codes which i listed in one of my other posts, since that time i purchased a used OEM T-case motor from ebay and installed it in place of the rebuilt one. I got hung up on a post from another person having the same issues that related the problem to their AC Pressure switch, i took my TIPM out and examined all of the connector pins, on connector C7 (Smaller blue 14-way connector) pins 6 & 13 were heavily corroded, i cleaned them off with "Deoxit" and checked the pins seemed to be good shape once cleaned, them, I traced them down on the wiring diagram and schematics, pin 6 is unused so i turned my attention to pin 13, which turned out to be A/C Pressure ground..( Interesting given the other person who said replacing his a/c pressure switch cleared his problem) I traced those wires back to the AC pressure switch, pulled the connector and the ground pin was also corroded, so i cleaned it off as i did with the others and reseated the connector, this was a week ago and I have no seen my 4wd low problem since doing this...I think a week is a bit premature to call it solved as the problem showed its self at completely random times, but being that its been quite icy and snowy and ive used my 4wd quite a bit since making the changes its a good sign...

I just used my 4x4 lock and 4x4 LO on my 2005 Durango with th5.7L. This is the first time I've used it. It sounded like it shifted fine. Unfortunatly I was still not able to get up my drive. I drifted back to the bottom. An hour or so later I started the vehicle up,loaded up my 4 grand children and started off down the highway. After approx. a mile it felt as though my vehicle went out of gear. The motor raced as I was starting up a small incline. Very fortunate no one was trailing me. I stopped the vehicle took it out of gear, retried it wouldn't budge. I again shifted back to park then to N and engaged 4lock,shifted into drive and it worked. Drove approx. another 1.5 miles up an incline approaching a stop sign,it jumped out of gear again. I was able to drift into a vacant lot. After many turns of the knob and starting,restarting and shifting I got it to move again in 4lock. I drove back down the hill and parked the vehicle. Shifted back to P and cut it off. Restarted it and other than making some awful noises and clicking sounds it wouldn't do anything. The SVC4w light would blink momentarily and the 4 lock light would continuously blink but the 4 low light wouldn't come on at all. I'm going back tomorrow and disconnect the transfer case. My big question at this time is how do I determine that the vehicle is in AWD before I disconnect????

I just bought an '05 Durango 5.7L Hemi and I immediately noticed that the car stopped whenever I pulled into a parking spot from either direction. Every once in a while the 4 LO indicator will flash for a second, but it doesn't stay on. It sounds like the same problem being described by others here. I don't know much at all about cars (trying to learn though!) but I am really disappointed that I'm already having to fix something complicated like this. It makes me wonder if the previous owner knew of the issue and replaced it as a result... Anyways, I don't know any mechanics I can trust to look at it, is the Dodge dealership my best bet for getting this issue fixed? What should I tell them to look for and what is the ball park cost? Sorry if I'm asking a lot, like I said, I'm not very familiar with cars. Thanks.

Well if it's the same as mine, which it sounds like it may be, $1600 in the first month I bought it. Not impressed. It only has 100,000 km! I got taken by the great look and extras and now am regretting buying it! It's cost me a pile money to fix and just as much in gas! And now the drivers side back panel around the wheel is starting to rust. Oh and one more issue to watch for, the issue with the gas tank that was recalled and apparently wasn't. If I fill the tank it sprays back a pile if gas so I can't even fill it! Thinking, especially after reading the posts that the 05 Durango is nothing but a lemon!

Just read rds0523 post. I also pulled the tipm which is the fuse panel , located on the left front fender under the hood. I removed the wire plugs , cleaned and sprayed them with an anti corrosion. Pulled the plug at the AC pressure switch and did the same. Then after having the transfer case motor unplugged because of it going into 4 LO for a year I did the same to that plug ( cleaned and sprayed). Three weeks and no issues. Something so simple and dodge will not do anything about it. They can not even identify it. Hope this is the cure!!!! Also have been in and out of 4 wheel a lot here in Pa.

I could speculate on the Durango issues, but being that I do not own one nor have I been around them and I'm not a mechanic - it's probably better that I don't offer too much advice. I'd prefer not to be the guy in the forum that leads people down the wrong rabbit hole. I am please to see that dakjunk has validated my "fix" (however temporary it may prove to be) for the 4low shift issue. I'm going to GUESS that the Durango's and rams during the 05-06 years are built pretty similarly and some of the durango owners might be able to resolve or atleast shed additional light on their problems by trying what dakjunk and I have done (or paying someone to do it) Its been roughly 3 weeks for me which heavy 4x4 use as well and I have not experienced the return of the 4low light issue..

Alex Felice - In the order of finding the lease expensive solution, I would suggest: (1) First find and reading “gbgogreen” in this forum which posted about 3 months ago concerning corrosion and using dielectric grease. My suggestion, clean all corrosion from the contacts at the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor unit on the transfer case and the A/C pressure switch (these two seem to be problem areas). Test the wire connector for tightness on the spade. If the wire connectors are very tight, apply some dielectric grease (be liberal but not messy) and reconnect. The dielectric grease should form a water tight/air tight seal to stop further corrosion. Using the anti-corrosion spray is good but the grease is way thicker and I thinks stays around longer (use both-spray then grease). Personally, if you have a mechanic do the work, I would stop the “corrosion” search here and run the vehicle for a while to see if the problem is gone (saving money). (2) Read the posts from “dakjunk” and “rds0523” since they have also found corrosion/continuity problems. (3) Since you are “not very familiar with cars,” I would take the vehicle to a Dodge dealer simply because, if it is not a corrosion issue, they have the equipment to find the problem. Also, using only one very competent mechanic is better than jumping around between mechanics since you will get duplication of effort/cost. (4) Read my first (and following) posts about my experience (Search “MyInput”). It is very important in finding a dealership/mechanic that you can TALK TO and TRUST. If you don’t like the first one, go to another dealership (even if you have to go to another town [the dealership I used was 200 miles from my home]). I have a tendency to post in detail but I believe this issue can be very complicated and many people are getting ripped off. (5) Tell the dealership/mechanic what you want done first so they don’t go on a fishing trip at your expense. The corrosion search should be minimal in cost since they are simply checking existing equipment on the vehicle which is relative easy to get to (ask them for a quote before doing the work).

MyInput: Thank you so much for the guidance. I will be making a trip to the dealer and I will likely have my phone out and on your post so I can clearly explain what the most likely causes/solutions are.

To Manny3482 I also had the gas tank problem. Although I am not sure of this, I think that there are two recalls concerning the gas tank. I also think that the recall goes with the vehicle and that they are required to repair the very dangerous problem (If they don’t repair it, contact recalls.gov). My local dealership had to replace my tank twice before two different problems went away. The first tank spit back gas all over the place and the second tank took 30 minutes to fill it. The third tank works fine. The dealership is required to test the tanks (my dealership wanted the tanks almost empty to test them). I never paid a penny for either repair. If they don't want to fix the tank until it properly works, just tell them you have documented your requests for repair and that any fire or physical damage to the car or bodily harm to you will result in a big lawsuit (do this only if the refuse and then contact recalls.gov). This is especially dangerous if you smoke.

Gina If you are still having problems please read the posts from “dakjunk”, “rds0523” and MyInput.

I have an update and a few more questions. I took my durango to the local dodge dealership. They were apparently unable to reproduce the issue I described with the 4 low blinking on and off while driving. I simply asked them to disconnect the tcase completely, and they said it would take away my 4wd but it should prevent it from switching. I just got the car back and while driving, the same symptoms returned, but it seems even more frequent. Is there a chance they made a mistake and didn't actually disconnect it? Is it possible to see this problem even after disconnecting the tcase? I don't care if I lose my 4wd, I just need to prevent more serious issues like dead battery, switching gears while driving, etc.

It is common that when you take the vehicle to the dealership the problems do not manifest themselves. This is due to two things: 1) the vehicles seems to be on its best behavior when at the mechanic/doctor, 2) you drive the vehicle in a certain way causing the appearance of the symptoms, while the mechanic drives it another way. Read my first posting (about 5 months ago) of what happen in our visit. Please refer to number “7. Ask your dealer if you can use the recording module (Flight Recorder) that attaches to your computer interface socket and then drive the car…” We recorded 17 different events. How it works: 1) You see a symptom, 2) You push the button on the unit, 3) The installed unit records all codes for the last minute and then records one minute more, 4) The mechanic/tech can then see all the codes sitting at his computer. Unless major revisions are made to your specific car design, you cannot “…disconnect the tcase completely…” It is an integrated part of the car’s design and although possible, it would cost you lots of money. I never personally disconnected the controls of the transfer case but it is my understanding that the “SVC 4WD” warning light comes on and stays on when the shift motor/mode sensor on the transfer case is disconnected. Since the wires that you asked to be disconnected carry the information for the other codes (4Lo for example), I would say no but we don’t know what is causing the problem in the first place so another failing component could cause the errors. If you decide to disconnect the wiring, the transfer case must be fully in the AWD position/mode. Just a note about corrosion of the wire connectors/plugs: status of some components are determined by voltage levels which corrosion can be the cause of false levels.

Alex It seems your dealer didn't unplug your transfer case under your vehicle. I've had mine unplugged for almost 2 yrs now without any negative issues. You need to get under your vehicle around under your drivers seat and visually inspect your tcase Make sure prior to disconnecting the larger black electrical connector, that your vehicle is active in the all wheel drive setting and NOT in 4HI nor 4LOW Good luck

If you do in fact decide to get under there and do it yourself i would recommend you disconnect the battery first - from experience theres not much you are likely to short but its always a good practice when dealing with anything electrical - It wouldnt hurt to set the parking brake either for that matter.... if you do decide to do it the connector you are going to unplug will likely be have a little red locking tab on it that need to be pushed "up" before the harness can disconnect from the TCase motor a smaller slotted(flat head) screw driver used GENTLY can help you pop the red locking tab as well as assist in seperating the harness from the connector ( if you cant get it off by hand first ) The photo in my first post has a picture of the transfercase motor the same or very similar will likely be on your vehicle if you dont want to unplug anything atleast you can verify the mechanics work - if he did infact unplug it i would highly recommend putting a freezer bag or something over the dangling harness and ziptie it shut on there to keep dirt/moisture out and slow the corrosion process long winded but i hope helpful (Im NOT a mechanic fyi my methods have worked for me - do at your own risk)

Here is my question, it looks like we may have made some progress with finding an answer to our problem. Here is what I don't understand, how does one go about "tightening" these connections? They are small pins in one end that fit into a female end that reside in a plastic housing. How does one tighten the connection? Any guidance would be appreciated.

i used surgical tweezers that have super small tips and i pinched the female sockets of the harnesses together so the male pins had a nice tight connection. i also used a dental pick where the tweezers didnt fit

Hi everyone, I have a 06, 5.7 Durango. It has the same problem that everyone is describing here in regard to the 4x4 lock. I tried everything you said about checking and cleaning the connectors. I did that for the transfer case motor connector, the TIPM connectors, and the A/C pressure switch connector. The result is (nothing). I took it to the dealer's. They scanned it for errors and couldn't find any error codes. When they drove it to test it, It was at its best behavior. They checked all the wiring again. They told me that if the problem continued, I would need to replace the PCM and the transfer case motor for a total cost of something around $1300. There is no guarantee here on the electric parts. Just driving 10 minuets back home from the dealer's and as I parked the truck, I could here again the clunking noise of the transfer case trying to engage. I am really frustrated. I am afraid that I buy and install these costly parts and the problem continues. I need your advice.

This may not be entirely helpful to some people, but I ended up having the dealership just disconnect my transfer case motor altogether. The only downside is I am constantly in awd now, but at least I didn't have to spend thousands to fix it. This was the best solution for me because I don't use it off road or in hazardous/mountainous terrain, or for towing. Good luck.

ZaidDD Search for MyInput and read the first post for sure. My Durango had the same problem when we drove it but not when the dealer's mechanic drove it. In that post, item 7 will address how to get computer code information for the dealer. It starts: 7. Ask your dealer if you can use the recording module (Flight Recorder) that attaches to your computer interface socket and then drive the car (we used the recorder over the weekend) gathering data (understand it is expensive, so the company may want a deposit if you don’t return it [ours did not].

Thank you Alex and MyInput for your reply. Although I don't want to lose my Durango's great off-road ability, I did what Alex suggested. I unplugged the TC motor and taped it all around. Now it's on AWD and the SVC4w light is always on. I hate to surrender. This is just a temporary ceasefire. I believe that for every result, there must be a reason. I will keep searching for a solution and I will update you if I find any. I hope that everyone does the same.

If i were you i would get the Manf P/N for your trasfer case - its probably the same one my 06 ram uses and i would buy a used one off ebay for dirt cheap, ( as i did) and swap it out - its 3 bolts and a 4 pin wire harness, and if your problem goes away you're done. if it doesnt go away you can pretty much rule out the transfer case motor MAKE SURE you buy a chrysler transfer case motor with matching manf p/n - i went through 3 after market ( A1 Cardone ) transfer case motors before i gave up on them for not working. My post above shows what the Transfer case motor looks like yours should look the same im guessing. I'm willing to be that's going to be the culprit

Are there pins or clips I have press to get it unplugged? Or is it a pry and pull deal? Laying on the ground isn't helpful but its my only way.

there should be a red clip on the wiring harness push it "up" towards the top of the harness once that moves up youll pull the harness "up" also and it should come out theres a rubber boot on the end of the harness that might create some light suction but as long as that red clip is up you should be able to wiggle the harness out. handle it with kid gloves tho you dont wanna pay to have that replaced. if my memory serves me correctly the 3 bolts are 10mm ish

OK tyvm, now can I get my big hand in there to pull lol

OK made sure it was in awd. Unplugged TCM and if you turn sharp at low speed or from stop either fwd or rvs you have to give good throttle to move. Once wheels are straight its all good. Some chirp from from tires to. Traction has not come on. Help!!!! Damn car !!!!!

That sounds like what a vehicle does on drive pavement when its in 4wd, I'll be honest i don't know much about Dodge AWD but in general my understanding of AWD is that its primarily FWD or RWD depending on the vehicle, and when the vehicle senses one of the tires slipping it compensates with braking or increased speed in other tires depending on the AWD system. What you described sounds to me like the 4wd is actually engaged and the differential is locked. **I AM NOT A MECHANIC NOR DO I WANT TO PRESENT MYSELF AS SUCH USE MY ADVICE AS YOUR OWN RISK** If it were me I would plug that TCM back in, put it in 2wd, disconnect it and try things again, if the symptom goes away, i would keep it in 2wd until you can get a replacement TCM from ebay

Yeah i kinda thought the same thing. There is no 2wd selection. I listened to it switch into 4wd then back to awd. I may just repeat it. I'm not equipped to change the TCM. I barely fit under car. Well at least for now it won't go into lock

I didn't realize your vehicle didnt have a 2wd option, sorry about that - I'm out of suggestions for now unfortunately, sorry i couldn't be of more help!

It's not in awd. It's in 4 lock I bet. In awd it would not have the issues when turning. My wife's does the same thing when in 4 lock

Today I finally had a chance to clean and grease all the connectors. No doubt it was needed. Well ended up stuck in 4lock again so I DC the battery for a few then it went back to awd. Now I'm pulling the plug!!!! So maybe the TCM is malfunctioning? Any other ideas?

Well im having all the same issues with my 05 durango as everyone else but the only thing thats different is that when I go to put it park it makes a grinding sound and when its in drive or any other gear it dont move an inch ... Please can someone help me im looking my mind

Well im having all the same issues with my 05 durango as everyone else but the only thing thats different is that when I go to put it park it makes a grinding sound and when its in drive or any other gear it dont move an inch ... Please can someone help me im loosing my mind

hard to say for sure but that one sounds more transmission related rodriguez. unless it only happens in 4 wheel. if thats the case it sounds like its disconnecting the drive shaft some of the electronic 4wd units have a "nuetral" button used for towing the vehicle ( you can read more about that in your manual) if its happening all the time in or out of 4wd id say its a tranny problem

@ rds0523.. well ta start off from the beginning of my issue at first it starts d off with the 4×4 goin on all by its self then little by little it started slipping then one day at a stop sign the truck went into 4×4 by its self and wouldn't move after ... I had someone help me push it out of the way of traffic and now im completely stuck on what it could be

Unfortunately that particular issue its out of my realm of experience, so I'd really hate to steer you in a wrong direction. - can you here the actuators clicking/shifting when you start the truck or does it just start like normal. What indicator lamps are on? 4LOW, AWD, 4wd etc etc - if you put the truck into drive and press the gas and it doesnt move it sounds to me like the transmission never went into drive. Or again, as i stated before it sounds like your Electronic transfercase for some reason went into its "neutral condition used for recreational towing ( if your vehicle does this) without looking at your vehicle i have NO IDEA what the problem truely is all i can do it give you some ideas where to start.

Well I finally came up with the best solution for my issue .. im letting it go right back to the dealership. ... I WILL NEVER PURCHASE A DODGE AGAIN!!!

Our '04 Durango just started this issue yesterday. Shifts from AWD to 4WD. I came across this site in search of a fix and have probably read through the posts three times. I checked the electrical connections and they all look clean. Seems to me most of the resolutions here have come from replacing the transfer case shift motor. I will start there but used dash switches can be picked up for cheap on ebay. I just can't imagine the switch being the problem. I'm leary of purchasing a used OEM motor from a wrecked Durango with as many or more miles than my own and it seems the remanufactured units might be a little sketchy. So I reckon I'll have to bite the bullet and get a new OEM for a few hundred bucks off ebay. Replacing this motor looks like a challenge given the drive shaft and exhaust location makes for a tight fit for wrenching. If I could just get it to switch back to AWD I would disconnect the motor. That way I could do a little more research before spending money.

First, go to http://www.safercar.gov/ and file a complaint since locking in 4WD on pavement can be dangerous. Second, being electrical, a complete failure of the transfer case shift motor is a possibility. If the car is "locked," in a turn that has put pressure on the drive train, try to relieve that pressure by allowing a wheel to be free thereby releasing the binding. If you have absolutely no sound when you try to shift to a different selected position, it may have a complete failure of the motor. I am sorry but since my failure was not a complete failure, I have no experience in how to get it to AWD.

The switch on the dash does nothing (I hear nothing from the motor below the vehicle). I did hear it switch yesterday after I pressed the key FOB to unlock the door. It evidently switched back to AWD because it drove without issues until I got on the interstate and the Service 4WD light came back on. Been stuck in 4WD ever since. I've tried disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes but can't get it to switch back.

Well my situation just got worse. Went to order the part on ebay but called first to verify my VIN matched the part number. It did not. I was told I need part 5103309AB, cost about $1000! I've since found them lower on the net for around $830. What a bummer! Think I'll start looking for a salvaged unit. Or just trade in the Durango. :(

Wow $1000??? I coincidently went into my Dodge dealership here in Alberta today and priced out the transfer case shift motor for mine. It will be $545. Brand new. Problem is I don't know exactly if that is the problem with mine. No dealer will take it on trade because of high mileage so it's either fix and sell or leave as Awd and keep it but it doesn't make sense for me to keep two vehicles right now. So I am stuck in a viscous circle - can't sell it because it is F$&cked and keeping it means owning a big gas guzzler without 4wd!! very frustrating indeed!

As an alternative, there's is still a chance the control switch is bad. I think I'll order one of those off ebay for $30 before I spend the big bucks. Just hope that something doesn't break in the meanwhile driving it around in 4 lock.

when you guys check your connectors are you checking the AC pressure switch connector at the AC side? if not that should be checked and cleaned as well. also keep in mind you probably have Front Axel Disconnect (FAD) actuators that are the other 50% of your AWD/4WD systems. To fix mine i had the Fad actuator replaced the transfer case motor and i had to clean the corroded pins on the TIPM and AC pressure switch connector i basically rejuvenated that whole 5v dc loop just a thought

Thanks Rds. I check out the AC connector on the high pressure line. I assume that's where you mean. Not sure where the FAD connectors are located.

Oh, I did also check the connector on the top of the AC compressor.

Fad actuator is located front axel near the front differential i believe if im not mistaken the fad actuators move a fork that slides a collar that locks the front axels to the drive shaft

I'm happy to report a small victory! In an effort to at least get the Durango out of 4 high, I decided to try disconnecting the transfer case motor and then starting the engine. Immediately after starting the engine I quickly went back under the vehicle (before the exhaust pipe that I have to wrap my arm around to get to the connector got hot) and plugged her back in. And then it happened... the beautiful noise I've been trying to produce... Zzzz-click! For a second I considered leaving it connected and taking it for a test drive to see if it would stay in AWD. But instead I went ahead and pulled the plug, pulled myself out and took it for a test drive. She has her road manners back again. So problem not solved but perhaps we can conclude something from this. I believe the control switch is good as it seemed to be directing the signal to put it back to AWD. The motor itself is good because it shifted quickly and smoothly back to AWD. So I think it is either the connector at the motor or the wiring within the motor itself. Everything looked clean from my visual inspection of the connector. So for now I can at least wait to spend a thousand dollars to replace the motor. Unfortunately the Durango just doesn't have 4wd capabilities that I occasionally enjoy, mostly for pleasure rides off road. But at least the AWD works well enough for most slimey situations.

Don't understand $1,000 cost of the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor # 5143477AA which my dealer sold for $410.80 (new OEM). This is the second time I have posted this post!!! I looked it up on Amazon (see link). It's heading is Mopar 5143477AA Transfer Case Motor. The fit vehicle routine said it fit my Durango. It also said 5 new for $290.40!!!!! http://www.amazon.com/Mopar-5143477AA-Transfer-Case- Motor/dp/B0049EEUQI

Thanks MyInput for Your input. I wish that one would work, but as previously mentioned, i was told I need part 5103309AB, like this one, http://www.moparamerica.com/oe- mopar/5103309ab Not sure the difference but it looks like the part you reference has an extra connection input on the cylinder piece. Don't think mine has that. My Durango has AWD, 4high, and 4low option. I think it is called a 2 speed transfer case model 244D. Sometimes when looking for a part, the item description lists 2005-2007 or higher. Not sure what makes the 2004 Durango different.

I've had my transfer case disconnected for over six months. No issues to report. Stays and drives in AWD like it's suppose to. Never use 4WD so not an inconvenience. When mine went bad the first go around, I bought a remanufactured one (about $150 RockAuto), which was hard to find without paying OEM dealer costs. Of course that failed as well, so I simply disconnected. Not sure why the 2004 is different that other years, but make sure if you're buying a new transfer case, make sure it's the right fit. My '04 takes a 2 speed which is hundreds more than a 1 speed.

I have a 2007 Durango SLT, 4.7l. and it is stuck in 4 wheel drive. I suspect the issue to be with the shift motor but it sounds like it is shifting. It used to take a few seconds to shift from auto to lock but now when I put it in lock the shift motor sounds like it is searching. I can hear it running back and forth for what seems like 15 to 20 seconds. I haven't used the truck a lot over the past 6 months or so, I replaced the battery about 6 months ago and it has been going dead every couple of weeks since. I have also swapped the battery with another from my boat and it is behaving the same. So there is definiately an extra load on the battery while the car is off but I haven't tracked it down yet. I have put less that 1000km on the carin that time. I am up in Canada and expect that some / all of the issues could be corrosion related. I see alot of posts about shifting in and out of 4WD and disconnecting the shiftmotor to prevent this. I am OK, with trying this myself, but my issue is that it is stuck in 4WD, would there be a way to manually shift it out of 4WD? I am guessing that would involue removing the shift motor.

No info on my part about any way to manually shift in or out of 4WD. Something to consider: If transfer case is in the Lock mode, binding of drivetrain may stop it from removing itself from lock back to auto/AWD (i.e. driving in 4WD on pavement that causes the vehicle to stop due to unequal radius of wheel travel in a turn). Remove possible internal drivetrain binding/stress by freeing wheels by driving on gravel road (if an option) or cautiously lifting one wheel off ground by a jack when the vehicle is on flat ground with other three wheels properly chocked. Take vehicle off the jack, remove chocks on wheels and then try switching modes.

Gord1973, did you try what I did to get the shift motor back to AWD position? Look at my previous posts and give it a try. You'll want to do this with the exhaust cool as you may need to wrap one arm around the exhaust pipe to help pull the plug off. And then start the engine with te shift motor disconnected. Immediately crawl back under and try reconnecting the shift motor. That worked for me. After I heard it shift I disconnected it again to ensure it would stay in AWD mode.

So, I pulled the connector off of the shift motor and poked around with it a bit. The connector looked very clean. Surprisingly in fact with 170,000kms on the vehicle and all in Canada. I ended up taking it to dodge under management direction (my spouce wanted it fixed quickly)... Anyway the route cause was the shift motor itself. Had I taken it off and opened it up, maybe I could have repaired it if there was a loose wire or something like that. It seammed to be searching. It would seem to run from end to end 8 or 9 times before giving up. All in all it cost me $800 to repair and 75% of that was the shift motor.

By the way, my 2007 durango 4.7l SLT 4x4 has the New Process 144D transfercase and is only a single speed. It doesn't have 4lo. If I had my time back I would have bought the durango with the 5.7l. I could really use the increase in towing capacity that would have come with the beefed up engine and drivetrain. My durango is only rated at 6000lbs and the hemi is more like 9000lbs. We only use it for towing these days, it is hard to find a tow vehicle with 7 passenger seating (we have 5 kids) that won't break the bank. We have a 2014 caravan for the daily run arround (not many large familes don't have mini-vans these days). I really like Dodge, but I have been temped numerous times to replace the durango with a large SUV, more than likely an excursion.

When my wife and I were looking for an SUV in 04, we were amazed at the value that the Dodge gave us. The Dodge had the 5.7 Hemi engine, leather, carpet, DVD player (used about twice since our daughter was at college), nice sound system, and etc. yet the Fords cost way more. The Ford only had rubber mats on the floors. Fell instantly in love with the Dodge's turning radius so, as a lifetime Ford buyer, we went with Dodge..

I agree, I am a big Dodge fan as well. Have two in the driveway right now. The only down side to the Durango is that it's small, when compared to the Ford or Chev full size SUV's. I would really use the extra space behind the 3rd row. We have 5 kids and it wasn't bad when they were small, but now trying to get skit gear for 7 into the 12 inches of space behind the Durango's 3rd row was difficult. It's easier with the Caravan we bought this year, but it's still difficult to find something that seats more than 6 and tows a decent amount of weight. If Dodge were to come out with a 7 or 8 passenger SUV sitting on the RAM chassis. That would be something to have. I am not a fan of the new Durango. Just as well off with the Caravan.

On the pickup side of things, Dodge is now owned by Fiat to some degree. They have a new diesel pickup coming out with a well proven Fiat V-6. The vehicle is suppose to get 28 mpg highway. It is rated around 10,000 lbs towing. If you look at the Hemi 6.2 liter engine performance spec., it is almost identical to the V-6 diesel. Not that this has anything to do with your family and the number you need to seat but one day they could build a vehicle around the V-6 and seat your who family. It would be cool. Rob

Hello everyone. I have 2005 Dodge Durango 5.7 HEMI AWD/4WD. Having the same issue as everyone else. I want to disconnect my transfer case motor but am not sure where it is. Are ther any photos or videos on how to do this? Thanks.

@jmoore808 I wish I knew too, because I just dropped $200 to have it done at the shop. My 06 dakota was having the same exact issue, to the T. Flickering 4lo dash light (at higher speeds), interment 4WD service light, and popping into 4lo all on its own at low parking lot speeds. I even had issues with the shift motor being activated while using my keyless entry, which REALLY baffled me. I could hear it engaging when I unlocked my car. The shop wanted to replace the shift motor, as I expected. But I opted to have them unplug the transfer case and I'll just go without the 4WD until I find a more satisfying answer. Clearly, based on this thread, replacing a shift motor has not proved to be a permanent fix. I like some of the rewiring work some of the guys in this thread have pulled of as a more workable solution. I would really like to be able to toggle back and forth from 2wd to 4wd easily if need be. It's just trying to find someone that could do it for me. I'll definitely keep on reading about this issue. Having a disconnected transfer case is not ideal, but it will just have to do in the meantime. Not about to drop $700 on a bandaid fix.

Concerning location of shift motor plug. Before you get under the car make sure that it is secure on level ground with parking brake on, in park, and wheels blocked. Note: not my recommended solution. Good info at http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/2klvz-2005-durango- awd- 4wd-lock-option-no-4wd-lo-setting-current.html Good simple drawings and info. Under the car on driver's side of car near front door. Look at the drawings and you will see its unique shape. Wiring plugs in opposite end of motor.

Somewhere in the middle of all these posts it was mentioned that to reset the mechanism when it spontaneously goes into 4Lo, shift into neutral, and push an object with a point on it into the button(?) beside the N. Hopefully it will start blinking. Hold the button in until it stops blinking and you hear the zzz-zzz noises. The 4Lo may blink 3 times and turn off or it might stay on,but the Durango will drive in all-wheel drive. This is not something I'd recommend doing a lot, but it should get you to somewhere where you can get that blasted wire detached.

Same problem with my 05 durango limited shifting into 4 low while driving down the highway. Transfer case engages when vehicle is off, also when I used the key remote. Has also shifted into neutral on its own and rolled down the driveway. While driving down the road the other night the vehicle engaged the car alarm, lights going on and off and horn blaring. Crazy thing is never had a problem till 2 years ago. The a/c just came on itself full blast without even showing up on the instrument panel. It wouldn't shut off and it got so cold ice actually developed ice on the housing under the dash. Right after that started having the 4wheel drive problems. Contacted Dodge and they said sorry and I probably should get rid of the vehicle. I couldn't believe it. Durango is AWD so I just unhooked the transfer case. Still having electrical problems and the vehicle just shuts off while driving sometimes. Motors are still trying to engage as I can hear them throughout the day. Feel horrible for everybody experiencing this because I know how awful it is.

you need to order a non 4wd just AWD control module body control module whatever ti's called. ti's easy to replace right near the fusebox or battery. I swapped mine out and am glad i did.

I would love to simply "take something out easily near the fusebox". Can someone describe or give me a photo of this very easy process?

I have been having the same issue. Once the vehicle is warmed up to running temp and going between 60- 7- MPH. The other day as I reached under the driver's seat to grab a tool, the vehicle just started going in and out of 4 wheel Drive. I then grabbed the wires and moved them, and it kept going in and out. The strange this is that my key was in my had. I have a 2005 Durango with 249,000 miles. Im going to check it out this weekend and will let everyone know what I find.

I don't know guys... but isn't there a way to stop that joke and throw that damn electric motor shifter and install a manual transfer case shifter? I am not a mechanic but I've talked to some good mechanics and they said that it is very difficult and nearly impossible because of the location of the transfer case. What do you think guys?

Curious if anyone else is having electrical issues along with the 4wd problem? I had my tranfer case disconnected a year ago (see previous posts). I have barely driven the vehicle 5000 kms since. I have noticed that the remote start is intermittent and when it does decide to work instead of running for 15 min, it runs about 2 and then shuts off. I have also had problems with my battery dying. Strange because the battery is only two years old. I can't find what is drawing it down. I know my transfer case did shift itself in and out with my key fob but that was before I had it disconnected, Is it possible it is still sending fantom signals to itself? I know it physically cannot shift because the wires are undone, but something is draining my battery. What a lemon this vehicle turned out to be, I can't even sell it in good conscinece with it acting up and I am in no position to spend thousands getting it fixed,

CanuckEMS, I'd guess that you have a defective battery. I experienced strange electrical behavior a couple of years ago combined with occasional drained battery. It went away with a new battery. Didn't make sense, but it fixed the problem.

Wanted to throw my experiences in here for all. My 2005 Durango (170k miles) had been experiencing the same problems with the AWD/4Hi/4lo - transfer case motor. To save all time... I had my very trustworthy and knowledgeable mechanic research this and he determined that the variable voltage coming out of the motor itself was the issue...hence the need to replace the motor. I had it replaced (~$700) and it instantly worked. While the new part was about $200 the location of the piece was well worth paying an expert to install it. Not excited to pay this but it is a well-driven and reliable 9 year old car now...so some repairs are to be expected. Thanks for all that posted information here.

I would've replaced my motor but for some reason the 2004 models with AWD/4hi/4lo/N are closer to $1000 just for the part. If anyone finds one cheaper let me know! Otherwise, this 11 year old SUV with 140k miles has been a very dependable vehicle. I bought a fully loaded Chrysler 200 Limited but my wife still prefers to drive the old Durango!

I too have a 2004 Dodge Durango limited with the Hemi. I might throw a bit of a loop to this whole discussion. This may be a whole other thread (well I know part of it is) but I want to throw this out there. Anyone else experience the "can't drive my Durango in heavy downpours/car wash?" In the last 3 years my Durango will shake and sputter while driving in heavy rains or if I take it though a car wash. I'm thinking all this water damage (causing shorts or corrosion) could be the culprit for my transfer case problems. I just recently started having issues with this. The first time, it simply wouldn't let me put my vehicle into gear. At this time there were no lights or warnings of any kind. After a few attempts, it decided to cooperate and went into reverse. The second time, which occured a few weeks later, I was in a parking lot went to put it into reverse and nothing but a bunch of grinding gears sound. I tried a few more times and still no gear. I then noticed the neutral light was on. I thought ok maybe by some coincidence I did hit that little button. I got my manual out, read how to get it out of the "neutral', followed the many steps and voilla it was fine. I hoped and prayed I could just pick my daughter up from school and get home. Once home I was curious how to get it into "neutral" since there were so many steps involved to get it out. Sure enough, there was no way I accidentally went through that many steps to put it in "neutral". I started reading some forums and read that many said the next step they experienced was while driving it would just go into 4Lo or 4Lock all on it's own. So after some safety concerns my husbands decides to drive it to work. Sure enough, 2 days later, driving on the highway doing about 65mph it goes into 4Lo....thankfully he was driving and not me or I would have probably been killed. He said it was like hitting a brick wall. We have now experienced the drained battery. I do hear the clicking while being turned off and in park. I always thought the sound was the cd changer doing some crazy weird thing. We have an appointment with the mechanic and I plan on taking all your comments with! Back to my first point...I have other electrical issues occuring after the whole windshield/cowl problem with downpours. My drivers door...nothing functions but the windows. I can't adjust the mirrors, lock/unlock doors, it thinks the door is ajar so lights don't go off and the radio doesn't shut off. You can imagine the snowball effect this causes. I also have the usual rusting under the gas door and the the whole drivers side (at least we have noticed this on MANY Durangos in our area in Illinois) My husband thinks there is a ground issue on these Durangos. There is definitely a relay of electrical issues caused from the "can't drive when it downpours" problems mentioned in countless threads and forums. Is this transfer case (I'm simplifying it to that name) one too? I love Dodge products and I love my Durango but there definitely needs to be some recalls done on these. This one is definitely a safety concern. I am doing my part by calling NHTS. My person opinion is - I really can't complain...these are the only issues I have had considering it's 11 years old now but it only has 107,000 miles on it. I'm really hoping repairs don't cost too much or otherwise I am going to be forced to trade. I now know unplugging it will at the least make it safe to drive.

Aloha All. I have a '04 AWD 4x4 5.7 ltr Durango doin it's issues as mentioned here. Can someone please suggest "where" AND "which" plug to unplug the transfer case? I looked at some pics this morning of a TCCM part and it looks like there are 3 slots. Enni meenie? Look frwd to anyones hands on experience/guidance. Mahalos!

Aloha All Once Again... Looking at pics online, there are 2 (?) Transfer Case MOdules seemingly. One inside the motor area and another inside the car under the dash onm the L-side. Plugs inside the car say Black Gray Black... are these the ones to unplug? If so... which one gets unplugged?? Thanks again MyInput for being here. Appreciated!

Das - If you scroll up the page about 1/2 way i have a post containing a picture with 4 smaller pictures in it, the top left corner ( your left) shows a picture of the transer case shift motor - I believe this is the motor you will be looking to disconnect - PLEASE NOTE I do not have a Durango, so the part may not be the same but I'm fairly certain as i believe our vehicles use the same part. should be located under the vehicle roughly near the location of your drivers seat. If you disconnect this and drive around you'll probably have some sort of light on the dash as a result.

Aloha RDS0523. Thx for ur suggestions. Is the above mentioned a 'plug' to disconnect, or requires wrench turning to remove? Thx again!

Its been almost a year since i fixed mine, but its definitely a plug type connection, no special tooling is required. If my memory serves me correctly there is a little red tab on there that needs slid backwards ( away from the motor) and then you should be able to wiggle the connector out of the socket, take your time, if you damage the plug its going to be a pain in the you know what to replace.

LOL! Au raiii Mr RDS0523... will do and thanking you kindly. Good Life & day to you n urz; )-

I have an 07 that just started acting up. SVC 4WD light came on and now it's stuck in 4 wheel lock. I tried disconnecting transfer case motor and got nothing, still stuck in lock. Any other suggestions???

Aloha Scott, Unsure if the same 4x4 control knob feature is the same as an '04 OK here goes (remember, i b just a car owner, not a mech or lic'nd one, ok? Replace the connecting cables to the shifter motor with the car off. Start the car normally and then place it in nuetral position on the shift column (parking brake on of course!), look for a small hole on the "left side" of the 4x4 control knob... the letter N and an arrow is also on the left side of the hole... place a paper clip into the hole and push it in to reset the transmission into AWD (if your veh is AWD?) This resets the transmission to AWD. Then disconnect the tranfer motor connection and you should be able to drive in AWD. Best wishes and hope this helps. BTW - make a claim to Dodge directly and file a recall claim with them. Who knows... maybe they can assist with the repair?; ) Aloha - S

Hello everyone I own a 04 Durango lmtd awd with 4hi and lo .... I am also experiencing similar but different issue my Durango while driving will shift into the neutral position on the transfer case not transmission resulting in loss of gears when driving when stopped I can lock it in 4wd and have all my gears as normal but yes I know I can not drive it this way I was able to disconnect the battery and reset the car to the awd position but can only drive a few miles until it happens again can someone please tell me if this is a shift motor issue or something else please I am stranded and can't get it out of 4 wd back into awd please help thanks in advance #strandedinohio

May I add it has the 5.7 hemi

I GOT MINE FIXED!!!! READ HERE IF YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW. Okay, first off.....it is not cheap, but, this is what's wrong. DEFINITELY 100% WITHOUT A DOUBT. Like everyone else, I went from place to place and tried this and that. No one knows how to properly diagnose this. So, I ended up at a PERFORMANCE TRANMISSION place near where I live. His son on staff is an ELECTRCIAL expert. He does Performance Chips and the like. This is what he did. He hooked up meters (like an EKG for you body) to the wires in my truck. He measured EVERY wire from the Front Control Module to its destination in an effort to understand which wires WERE carrying a FULL LOAD from point A to point B and which wires were NOT. Because of time and weather, five wires WERE "calcified" or "corroded" on the ends, thus REDUCING the load carrying over those wires. In fact, the best of those five wires only was carrying an 8% load. For $300, he diagnosed this and replaced the five wires. Problem solved...however, a year of this happening fried the transfer case motor, thus I needed a new one of those as well. $1100 for that motor. Add to that $149 for a full transmission service and all is well. He told me that the original transfer case motor is documented to be made in China and is known to be a huge piece of crap. He showed me the new American made replacement case and there is no comparison. The truck now does not do this anymore and runs even better than ever. Apparently, the issue is this.....by default, the 4WD system is initiated to be "IN" or "ON" when the "LOAD" is reduced (like when slipping in snow or ice or when additional traction is required. Therefore, 4WD was initiating because these five wires were low on load, not because of any slippage. Additionally, I did not know this, but there are times when the 4WD system assists you by turning itself on with no light warning to you. You can obviously turn it on manually, but it does go on from time to time when necessary without letting you know. There was a time when I simply unplugged the transfer case, BUT....two things. One, you lose ABS braking. Second, almost all of the time, it is still in some form of 4WD. Well, that's how it was fixed. Any questions class?

Amber, look back at my response on how to get it back into AWD. I've been driving the Durango with the transfer case motor unplugged for 9 months without any issues. And fortunately the AWD still works beautifully in the snow and ice! Dean1969, I don't think your diagnosis applies to most other Durangos here. I checked my wires on both ends and they were all clean of corrosion or grime. And the problem is in the transfer case motor electronics, not the transfer case itself. Unless you were having an actual transfer case issue, I think you may have replaced it for no reason. But glad you got it fixed!

Or try what Dasurfguy recommends. Either way, your goal is to get it back to AWD and then unplug the electrical connection to the transfer case motor so it won't reengage 4WD.

Remember though, unplugging the transfer case motor removes anti lock brakes from your truck. The ABS system is controlled by the transfer case as well.

Dean, I haven't heard this before. I need to test this out for myself. That would certainly influence me to purchase a new t-case motor.

Good idea. Always try to be as safe as possible. Regarding the wiring, the guy who fixed mine told me that sometimes there is no visible corrosion to see, but when load tested, some of the wires are not carrying sufficient load. He also told me that he has fixed over 60 Durangos with this same repair method in the last 10 years. Each one was fixed with rewiring bad wires. May not help or fix all, but, remember, the $300 I spent was for rewiring. The cost of diagnosing it was under $50. My be worth the time and $50 to find out for sure.

Confirmed Fix Hi there, After driving for about a year with the shift motor unplugged without any issues, I decided to change the shift motor itself. I did . I've been driving my Big Buddy for 2 months after installing the new part without any problems. By the way, the stock motor was made in China and and the new one which I bout from the dealer here in Oman is made in China as well. It is Mopar. Guess what! It was about 300 USD only including the labor.

I've been working on my 04 durango limited with hemi for the past couple of days now. Same issues as most on this site. started as t-case shifting on its own. sometimes with the key remote. sometimes just opening the rear door. I think I've got it fixed and hopefully i can save someone a few bucks here. Based on many of the posts here, I assumed it was either the dashboard switch, transfer case motor or front control module. i started with the t-case motor which is about $200 after core exchange (sorry to the guy that paid $1100). About as easy as changing a tire if you have the jacks, blocks (I found removing the transmission support gave me better access and you'll need to put block under the tranny for support), and tools. just need to make sure the gear teeth match up to the female part on the t-case motor. A pair of vise grips gently gripped works fine to turn the t-case gears. The motor change didn't fix the problem however. If i knew then what i know now this is where i'd start. There are 2 torx screws and 2 phillips screws that attach the dash around the steering wheel. Remove these and with the parking break on or wheels blocked, shift the tranny all the way down and gently remove the dash cover. Remove the 3 phillips screws holding the AWD, 4lock, 4lo switch as well as the elect connector. After removing the switch, locate the white tag on the back of the switch. beneath the tag is a torx screw (found that after I broke the plastic trying to pry it open). You dont need to remove the knob. Remove the torx screcarefully spread spread the plastic clips to separate the switch housing. Ok, at one corner of the switch board where the N reset button rod pushes through, there is a small silver square with a tiny rubber cap. It's the contact for the neutral reset. Mine had been brutally abused and the rubber tip was half stuck inside the silver metal square. Basically this created some electrical continuity which didn't allow any of the other switch positions to work. I carefully picked the rubber cap so that it was free to depress and release again. (Note to self, dont abuse the reset button). I plugged the switch back in. (I also reset the vehicle computer by disconnecting the battery and stepped on the break for about 30 seconds then reconnected the battery). Everything worked like it was supposed to. Put the dash back together and done. This should have cost me nothing. I did buy a new switch because I mangled the old one $62ish. Also changed t- case fluid. Let me know if this works for you. I'll try to attach some pix.

T-case motor. Notice the gears

Won't let me post the switch pic but you can find it at Autozone or where ever you get your parts

How would your reset button get abused to have caused this issue? Do you frequent press the Nuetrik button for towing purposes? I have never had my transfer case switched to Nuetral so hard for me to believe in my case that is the issue. But I will certainly look into this. Nothing to lose!

Don't know how it ended up that way. We rarely use the 4wd. We do have a college age kid that borrows it now and then. Opened the switch up and there it was. We bought it with 80, 000. May have been a tow behind. It has 185, 000 now. Been a great vehicle. Hope its that simple for you too. Let me know how it works for you.

An old computer axiom is "Garbage in, garbage out!" The car's computer is still a computer and if given errant data, it will try to correct the problem to its programmed standards (unwanted shifting). It seems to me that the overall theme of most reports is sourced to errant computer input causing "ghosts (iRobot; a great movie) " of one sort of another. Since the computer uses resistance, voltage, and source anything causing out of standard variance will cause "ghosts." Someone more ambitious than I, should proof all the reports for validated cures (2 or 3 different people solved the problem using a common cure; i.e corroded connections) in a sorted order ranked by least to most expensive cost of repair. After publishing the ranking, a lot of time would be saved by everyone. Great input from many make a great forum!!

We just purchased a 05 durango on Tuesday there were no signs of there being a problem, yesterday I noticed the sound and only once saw the lights come on then the service light. Tonight everything seemed fine, just the service light was on. Went to back out of one driveway to park it in the other driveway and it went into 4lo, I parked it and turned of the engine hoping to hear it change but it didnt and then started back on and tried to turn the knobs hoping that would work but no luck. We do have a 30 day 1,000 mile warrenty.. I really love the car and hate to get rid of it. I guess what should I tell the dealer so they can get it fixed properly. We are BIG didge/chrysler family so this problem is a lil frustrating. I have read all the posts and kinda started to get confused. I need my 4wd for towing and winters what tips might you have?

Depending on engine size, the '05 has two different transfer cases. My experience is with the 5.7 L engine so the following info is for the NVG 244 (OEM Part # 52853308AB) transfer case unit that comes with the 5.7 L Hemi. The NVG 144 which, to my knowledge, is mated to the smaller engines is OEM Part # 52105938AD. The cost of the Shift Motor/Mode Sensor for the 5.7 L unit is OEM Part # 5143477AA which my dealer sold for $410.80 (new OEM). My new Shift Motor/lMode Sensor sounded completely different than the original defective unit. This does not mean that this is your problem in your unit. It is a good place to start since it is often the problem. However, a simple corroded wiring problem can also be the problem. I would suggest that you copy/paste my first posting so you can take a hard copy into the dealer. Solving the problem can be costly. My Dodge now has 196,000 on it and runs like a new vehicle and the transfer case has not given me one problem. A lot of good advice has been posted on the forum so study hard and let the dealer know about it.

An earlier post stated that unplugging the transfer case motor would disable the anti-lock brake feature. I tested this out on wet road surface and would like to report that the anti lock brakes are still functioning properly with the transfer case motor unplugged.

I've had my transfer case unplugged for nearly two years now on my '04 Durango HEMI. Anti-lock brakes have always worked for me - experienced it during the last snowfall two weeks ago. Besides the service 4x4 light always being on, I haven't experienced any "side effects" of the t-case being unplugged. Can't switch to 4hi or 4lo, but never used it anyway. AWD is all my family needs for daily driving

Pretty sad that Dodge truck owners have forked over thousands of dollars for four wheel drive vehicles that have to be partially disabled to prevent damage to the vehicle and/or occupants. From my own experience and from what I have read, the dealerships do not have the ability to repair this problem, other than the old "replace everything until it works method". I did bargain for a Chinese transfer case motor when I paid for a Dodge truck. Deception? Dodge needs to stand behind this engineering fiasco, unless it wants to lose a number of its customers. This one included.

As I said in my original post, it is important that one has a conversation with the dealer before they are allowed to work on your vehicle. This info applies to a '05 Durango with the 5.7L engine. My vehicle now has over 196,000 miles on it. It cost me $798.30 to replace my Shift Motor/Mode Sensor. That is slightly over four-tenth of a cent per mile. They originally charged me for the computer at $1,082 which was suppose to be the problem but they returned the cost when they removed the computer after they found out the computer was okay. Talk with your dealer about errors they make in diagnostics.

I'm in the same boat with our Durango.

I'm in the same boat as many of you. I can but won't unhook the harness because it will be stuck in 4WD mode. I've tried backing up our DD to attempt to disengage. Still no luck. Our vehicle is currently at a Napa certified independent shop getting the diagnosis done. I did tell them from the get go about the TCM issue that is plaguing these DD. Below is a comment I made on Dodgetalk.com I found the article in a transmission trade publication. It pretty much sums up our laymen comments in a more technical approach. It's still digestible for the mechanically inclined. For those who don't posses this skill just print the article off and present it to your Dodge Shop Advisor and your mechanic at your independent garage. Best of luck everyone. FYI: eBay has many of these on their site. Our 04 DD 5.7 AWD/4WD is currently in the shop for what seems to be a common problem with DD. Here is the best article regarding the issue that sometimes evades Dodge and independent shops. http://www.rsgear.com/articles/200 8_04.pdf

http://www.rsgear.com/articles/200 8_04.pdf

Amber, I have the same issue with a 2005 Ram. Did you ever figure out what the issue was and how to correct it?

I just pulled the fuse on my 2005 Dakota, and it has been working fine for almost a year. I was hoping something would come out of the last recall.

Sawfish what fuse did you pull

It's fuse 42 - the 25A closest to the front control module at the end of the fuse panel. This is for a 2005 Dakota.