Durango keeps stalling when stopping...why?

It could be any number of things. Get the codes rad at the parts store to see if there are any pending codes. - It could need a basic tune up ie plugs, wires and air filter.

I would check and see if the throttle body is real dirty causing it to stick/affect air flow. If it has a idle air control valve i would check it while you were there.

intermittent...with rain....got to be a high voltage issue-....wires, connectors...somebody is leaking the high voltage. There are 'wands' available to spot high-voltage leaks-

2004-2013 nine years old high-voltage wires...it's time to change them.

I would start by checking the battery, out trucks are very demanding when it comes to the battery, you can start by cleaning the connectors if that don´t work it is probably time for a new battery, you can have it tested and also check if the alternator is giving you little over 14 volts.

My Durango is doing the same thing. Just had the throttle body replaced and it didn't help.

I found this on another thread describes my problem to a tee! I'm taking it back to Aamco tomorrow morning. 38000mi 2005 Dodge Durango Limited w/ Hemi, many mods - exhaust, intake, shift kit, rims, you name it. Love it. Sounds mean as hell. But the STALLING! ugh - read on... RPM's would consistently fade below 500 upon deceleration (i.e. slowing for turns, traffic lights, etc.), shudder and then stall. No check engine light - ever. Stall would only happen while car was in Drive (not on startup), and was always immediately re-startable, albeit in the middle of a f***ing intersection. Mileage crept down from 14 to 10.5mpg. Began to fear stopping/stalling and thus performed rolling stops for the past few months. Brought to the dealer 4 times to no avail - they re-flashed PCM, applied TSB 18-013-05 Rev A=>nothing. They recommended throttle body service, which I did myself. Decent amount of coking but nothing too bad. My air intake filter was filthy, thought that might be it, cleaned that up=>nope. Bought myself a new EGR valve from Parts dept and installed it (what a bitch, not very conveniently located)=>no dice. Was at wits end, finally brought it back to dealer and told them that I love the truck but if they cant fix the stalling I'm trading it in and never buying Dodge again. They kept it for six days, kept test driving it, hooked up a computer and recorded the parameters when the car stalled, uploaded data to STARScan, even the chrysler techs said everything looked perfect from a computer/sensor standpoint. Then, they called me and asked if I had recently CHANGED MY TRANSMISSION FLUID OR HAD IT SERVICED. I certainly did, did it myself at 30000 miles following their own service manual's instructions. Hmm...come to think of it, stalling problem started right around that time...hmmm...Apparently, there is a little-known issue with the filter gasket that if you don't tap it in ABSOLUTELY F***ING PERFECT, it will suck air into the system, froth up the fluid, and mess up the sensors, causing a stall upon decelerating. I was skeptical, but when they checked my tranny fluid there were air bubbles on the end f the dipstick! So I said go ahead, do (another) tranny service, make sure the filter gasket has good seal. They also replaced a Mass Air? Sensor part# 5033110-AC or 8037155. To make a short story long...MY CAR IS NOW FIXED, RUNS LIKE A DREAM, NO MORE IDLE FLUCTUATIONS AND NO MORE STALLING!!!!!! Hope this helps at least ONE other person out there, to save the diagnostic headaches I went thru...just have them service the tranny!

Here is the root cause for my 2004 Durango with Hemi engine. Due to age, windshield cowling has begun to deteriorate and the seal against the windshield has failed and water was running right down into the engine compartment and right onto the fuse block! Spent a lot of money at repair shop and finally figured it out myself. Did a major cleaning of the seal and used electrical tape to test the theory. Drove it in several major Florida downpours with no issues. Due to age, I will simply run a bead of silicone as opposed to buying a pricy replacement cowling and several hours of labor.

Had the same issues with my 05 Durango. Turns out torque converter was going which caused a clog in the cooling system. End result; new trans, torque converter, and cooling lines. Insult to injury the computer system failed. 3800 to fix it!

bblauto: Hallo did you fix it? Have same...

Engine loping can be caused by dirty throttle body. Disassemble and clean all the carbon off until it looks like new -- especially in the cavity of the Idle Air Control valve since it can get stuck there. Do this before you start to replace parts. Then adjust the throttle position cable to the trans. If that does not work replace the IAC, throttle position sensor, temperature sensor, and MAP sensor. MAP sensor is expensive so do that last.

camshaft and crankshaft sensors.

Had the same issue with my 99 5.2 durango. ..jerking, rpms reving, stalling out at stop lights etc.....AFTER two weeks of missing work, being stuck on the side of the road numerous times, changing the distributor, cap, rotor, tps, crankshaft sensor, and the camshaft sensor it turned out to be my IAC valve $31 @ autozone. ....IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCING THESE SYMPTOMS try cleaning or changing this FIRST!!!

My 2006 dodge Durango is doing the same thing "cutting off" while sitting in traffic. Also my ignition switch gets stuck and it won"t turn over. unable to start the truck.

Mine only does this when it's cold. I was in Phoenix this weekend and in never did it not once. But as soon as I got back to Prescott (6000 ft elevation) it's doing it again if it's not warmed up. If yours is doing it when it's warm I would have the dealer check the level of the transmission fluid or just fill it to the brim your self and see if that helps. My ignition switch is very though, I have to move the key in and out slightly a number of times before it will turn, but I never thought that the two issues could be related.

i would get a new key after so many years the old key wears down over time it won't work in the ignition switch or get a new ignition switch it can go bad or your idel control unit is bad

also check you altanater that can be why its shuting off

My 2005 durango ran great...except once a year it would just randomly stall out...usually when slowing or turning into a parking stop and usually in the spring when we started getting warmer temps and some humidity. Gradually the stalls got more frequent and this went on for 6+. Yrs... Then it was stalling almost every time I stopped. Had the IAC valve replaced and runs great. Still yet to find out if that's what was causing the random warm weather stalls but my RPMs no longer drop like they did feeling like it was gonna kill.

I had the same think happening. I had my O2 Sensor replaced that is located on the left side. 05' Durango. Since then no worries.

My 06 Durango was doing the same thing with the idle and the dying from time to time I replaced the throttle position sensor which cost me 33 bucks and it is located on the top left hand side of the throttle body problem went away and it runs good now with no more issues

Picture yourself standing in front of the car with the hood open. Most of the problems were corrected by replacing parts at the top rear of the engine. That is where the water collected by the top of the car, rolling down the windshield, is dumped when the weatherstripping on the cowl / windshield boundary fails. Water corrodes electrical contacts over time. The plastic cowl shrinks over time. The 1/8" rubber bead gets brittle over time. The fix is to re-seal bottom of windshield with $20 of weatherstrip, after you have replaced the damaged sensors.

my durango began to stall in reverse..sometimes it will shut off..sometimes it will only crank in neutral..i didnt have the issue..or any issues until my truck was recently serviced at jiffy..i sure hope i have breanskis' luck

If you are running gasoline with ethanol in it in your vehicles, you are making a big mistake. Try to switch to premium as quickly as possible and have regular maintenance done. If you're lucky you haven't done permanent damage to your vehicle.

I'm having similar issue now the dash light and the cluster goes in and out when you put in park and restart it the thing will not go into gear. Till reset

I faught the Durango dieing problem for 5 months. I went on ebay and baught a remaufactred ECM for a few hundred $. it has ran with no probloms for 3000 miles. baught ECM from all computer resourses

Turn on your car let it warm up 10mins tops ... Get in the freeway or high way press down the gas pedal all the way down do this for 5secs and wait few secs to do it agian 3 times atleast.

Similar issue. Would stall after letting off the break and pressing on the gas. then would be hard to start. What i did to fix it. In order, new spark plugs, new throttle plate sensor (TPS), new crankshaft sensor, new camshaft sensor, new air filter. HOWEVER, if I were you, try to work this list backwards, start with the air filter! Honestly don't think the spark plugs had much to do with it, but they need to be done anyways. If you are mechanically inclined, it is pretty easy to do all this work on your own, the crankshaft sensor is extremely hard to pull out btw, just keep pulling is my advice. Both the crankshaft and camshaft sensor can be found through the front passenger wheel well. crank is more rear and cam is more to the front. TPS sensor is attached right to the throttle body itself. hope some finds this helpful.

The one thing I did not see (or may have missed I am sorry if I did) is the cam and crank position sensors. They can cause stalling, ignition problems and even cause your engine to begin to shake as a lot of people on here and other forums are describing. I own a 2006 Dodge Durango with a 4.7l and it began to shift hard at times and stall whenever I came to a complete stop. So far after replacing these two things it has worked well and if you have experienced power loss this may also help in your case.

My answer to the above distributor cap.

breanskis had the answer. i had the same problem. come to a stop, rpms shoot down and boom, engine dies. for smits and giggles i checked tranny fluid ( of course im thinking there is no way that tranny fluid could case this issue.) tranny is 3 quarts low. i added fluid and OH MY GOD, hasnt stalled since. wether or not you believe it, it cant hurt to CHECK YOUR TRANNY FLUID.

My 2003 Durango had been giving me issues for the last three years. I would start the car and the vehicle would runhe first couple miles and than a volt symbol would flash on the dash. Once it started flashing I would loose power and the truck would shutter. I could put the vehicle into neutral and restart while coasting and once restarted vehicle would stay running with no issues. This was a daily occurrence. I went to numerous dealership and no codes were ever stored in computer. They could never find anything. Recently I became frustrated and took to another dealership. After a little examination of the engine compartment they came back and said it was an EGR tube that was shorting out against the battery wire. This was causing arching and created a hole in the EGR tube throwing the computer off. I also had a slight ticking noise that I thought was an exhaust manifold leak but was actually the arching of the wire and ERG tube. Glad it is finally fixed and truck is running great. Now I wish they would do something about the rust on the back left corner panel. It seems all Durangos in this age have rust under the gas door on the fender. If you have answers to this, please let me know.

Hey Finally Happy- Dodge issued a recall for the gas overflow which caused our rust under the gas door however they refused to replace the rusty fender,,, not a good look dogde... seeing all durangos from around 2004-2009 with rust in the same place. For some reason I love my 2005 Duango but they do have issues as I guess every vehicle does at some point in its life. But when the issue is due to a manufacturer flaw they should fix it and the damages it caused. Our stalling issues have stopped since we replace the IAC valve replaced. Hasnt stalled on us once.

Im have the exact same problem except my 2nd fuel injector keeps going out i just replaced it i have no idea what to do ive check a lot of thing and still have no idea

And its an 01 dakota sport

I have a 2005 dakota 4.7. If I dont let it warm up for 2 minutes it will set a multiple miss fire code. If I let it warm up it is fine. Another thing I found out if you put the truck in gear before warming it up it will start to miss/. While doing this if you take the transmission out of gear the code will go way instantly and if you put it back into gear the code reappears and starts missing again. But like I said before if you let it warm up for 2 minutes it is fine. The code it is setting during the miss is P0700 transmission control system malfunction with the P0100

Change the pcm

Is your check engine light on

I took my car to the dealer and had them check the tranny fluid, it was low and they filled it and it stopped. I know it sounds weird but I had recently had my transmission serviced at Aamco and that's when the problem started. I took it back to Aamco twice and they swore the transmission fluid was filled according to Dodge specifications. I read on a different site someone had the same problem, took it to the dealer the dealer said tranny fluid was low and it fixed the problem. So that's what I did and the problem is solved. Too bad I had every sensor replaced needlessly, prior to reading the proper solution.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSa... If you have ever had a problem with your 1999 Dodge Durango stalling either while driving down the roadway, at a stop-light or anywhere, use the above link above for the NHTSA department of the federal government for recalls, even if you don't own your vehicle anymore. I have a family member who has one & has owned it since it was purchased brand-new, it began stalling since it was new, first time in traffic on a very busy multi-laned street in Dayton, OH. It was a very scary & dangerous situation, that luckily turned out okay due to my sister's quick-thinking, but could have been death for 2 adult women & 4 children. They have spent a fortune on their Durango trying to find & fix the problem over & over. If you do research on this problem on the net, you will find hundreds, maybe thousands of people's posts reporting history of this problem, but ironically there are NO TSB's out there for that particular problem for 1999 Dodge Durangos which can not be if these vehicles have been looked at for a stalling problems, which indicates to me that the dealerships or someone above them were not reporting this problem in the system like they were supposed to be doing all along all of these years (perhaps the vehicles appeared in the systems when they were checked out but were listed in the system under an irrelevant problem, so that they could avoid listing the real problem. I believe that Dodge has been hiding this major possibly life-threatening problem for years & have hidden it so well & so far no one has contacted the federal government direct. If all of you contact them & report your stalling problem with your present or former 1999 Dodge Durango, Dodge will have to come clean & own up to their problem that they have managed to sweep under the rug & keep hidden for years from the federal government, as well as their customers! You don't have to continue to fight with this possibly life-threatening problem on your own any longer!

Crankshaft sensor was replaced fixed the problem for a day then started idling down and dying. Gonna have the TPS and IAC changed. This is the 2nd TPS replacement in a year. Should fix the problem as it did before. The parts are crap ALL OF THEM even Mopar!!!

I had a similar problem(s) 2007 4.7L Durango Adventurer. 1.) Engine rpm would vary between 650 and 1800 rpm. 2.) Engine would stall when not fully warmed up when I would come to a complete stop when ambient temperature was below 45 or 40 degrees. Engine/transmission would vibrate and shake right before it stalled. Big clue here. Check Engine Light code P0456. Slight EGR vacuum leak was the code desription. 1.) Cleaned throttle body butterfly. Helped slightly stabilize slightly . Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. No help. Replaced Throttle Position Sensor. That problem was fixed, completely stabilized engine rpm. 2.) Replaced Engine idle speed valve. No help. Cleaned egr vacuum tube. No help. Took Durango to dealer, dealer diagnosed problem to be cracked transmission filter or bad or improper o-ring on main tranny filter. I had just had my transmission oil and filter serviced/replaced. They wanted $230.00 to fix it. I said no, my transmission shop will take care of it. I noticed the engine quit stalling when eng temp was cold. Took Durango back to Tranny shop. They removed tranny pan and said the dealer replaced the filter but left CEL on. Dealer put tranny pan back and refilled tranny with fluid. Reset CEL and not had any more problems except engine idle speed is still a llittle suspect. Start engine when cold, rpm starts out at 1200 rpm and slowly comes down to 700 rpm and when fully warm, engine rpm will drop to 650 rpm. I think idle rpm speed should be 600 rpm when fully warmed up without AC on. It is winter now and I am glad most of my problems are fixed. Have not tetsted engine yet when fully cold with CEL reset and off. I will find out tomorrow morning when I go to work. BTW, I had an engine freeze plug heater installed to pre-heat the anti freeze for those Wisconsin below zero winter mornings. I have the heater turn on by a timer and be on for 5 hours and have heat coming out of the vents in less than 5 minutes, Durango is garaged every night. Engine warms up 5 to 7 minutes faster. MY CEL nightmare is over. I love my Durango, but Dodge is not very reputable as far as I am concerned. This is my 3rd Durango. The first two were perfect. This one, not so much.

Stalling and missing in rainy conditions.....I had same problem. Ask your dealer about a Technical Service Bulletin dealing with this issue. The fix is a $150 (approx) new plastic cowling below the windshield wipers to prevent water falling on the plug leads leads. I installed the cowling myself with simple tools.

For the love of god people PUT DOWN YOUR TOOLS! Don't just go spending a crap ton of money changing everything. Trouble shoot the issue. The main reason for no code thrown with this problem is a failing MAP Sensor or Idle air control valve "IAC". Your welcome.

Blake, The problem turned out to be a cracked transmission filter creating a vacuum leak causing the torque convertor to lock up at low rpm. After replacing the throttle position sensor which stabilized the idle speed and going through various troubleshooting procedures, I decided to take my vehicle to the Dealer. They found the problem in about 30 minutes. They wanted 280 bucks to drain the transmission oil and install a new filter and refill the tranny fluid. I took it back to my tranny shop I use since they installed the filter and fluid and they fixed it at no charge. It has been running like a champ ever since.

Yes I read your part last night . My response is to the people telling to replace all. Most common problem in the scenario asked by the original person is what I stated above.

Clean Battery Terminals first, Charge Battery next, Replace battery with KNOWN good battery, reset computer, Chase floating ground (Corroded copper grounding strap near left foor computer panel.) These will fix your rough Idle and jumping RPM issues. All related to PCM getting wet from water intrussion due to old deteriorated gaskets.

after trying all of the above, I completely solved the stalling issue by installing a new $24 engine crankshaft position sensor. I recommend trying this first.

My 2005 Dodge Durango was stalling or nearly stalling after trying to accelerate from a stop, it was worse with the air conditioner running, or on an uphill. Had the EGR replaced... Did nothing to fix it. Finally took it to the dealer and discovered the idle air control valve on the throttle body was busted. Replaced the entire throttle body and it's running like a champ.

If it only acts up when it's raining then it is definitely the windshield cowel you can buy an over priced after market. I took the weather stop off the door of an old dodge caravan, cut it to size and haven't had the problem since.

If it only acts up when it's raining then it is definitely the windshield cowel you can buy an over priced after market. I took the weather strip off the door of an old dodge caravan, cut it to size and haven't had the problem since.