battery drain
Asked by scorpio72 Mar 05, 2010 at 03:51 PM about the 1999 Dodge Durango SLT 4WD
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
i have a 99 durango, the battery keeps getting drained i got a new interstate battery and put that in when that didnt help i got a new alternator woke up the next morning and it was deader than a doornail, what else should i try?
23 Answers
i have the same problem with my 98 its something with my alarm drianing power
I had the same problem with my 99 rango battery would be flatter than a pancake after about 6 hours but not all the time. The cluster kept sweeping a little the volts the temp all cept the speedo and tach. I could hear a little tick under the hood every few secs. I found some info about it being on the circuit with the interior lights which is fuse 12 if i unplugged it. the battery wouldnt drain. so i checked everything on the circuit some said it might be the rear wiper motor so i unhooked it no change. I even thought it might be my power locks maybe one of them was not locking fully and draining that wasnt it either. Turns out if you look in the power distribution panel behind the battery were all the relays and big fuses are my problem was the blower motor relay i pulled it and fixed no more sweeps on the cluster and no more ticking and no more dead battery I hope this helps these trucks are kinda troublesome with their electrical components hopeing i dont get the nobus computer issue i have been reading about. good luck
I have a 2004 Durango that has the same battery drain issue and I noticed the CD changer clicking/operating while the vehicle setting with ignition off. I removed the amp fuse as well as the radio fuse and it appears that the drain has stopped.
It can be many things, while you are finding out you can disconnect the ground connector of the battery when you have shut off the engine so you won´t kill the battery. You have to have a volt meter connected to your battery and take out one fuse at a time and see which one makes the volts go down when you remove it and take it from there when you find out which one it is.
jose46kathy answered 9 years ago
I have a 98 dodge durango and was having the same problem. We tested the alternator and it tested good . So we changed the pcm , started right up , then it started draining again and shut down. Auto zone told us we might have to take it to an electrician, we're like forget it. So we finally figured out the problem ourselves, it was the alternator fuse in the power distribution box near the battery. It's a 140 amp alternator fuse. We got it in the dealer for $12. And now are truck is running great. We still got a new battery to be on the safe side. Hope this helps. Have any questions please feel free to email. Make sure before you put the fuse you have the battery cables disconnected.
My battery on my 99 Durango wouldn't stay charged for at all... I followed what Jose up there did with switching the 140 alternator fuseband it's running great now!
My alternator tested bad and battery kept training. The starter would just spin and spin and would start when it wanted. It was all that damn fuse. 5 bucks at Advanced Auto parts. Alternator tests fine now and battery charges at it should. That fuse was the culprit of it all.
My99 Durango positive cable is always corroded and heats up ..what do you know about this problem. Pkez help
ShereeShaw answered 8 years ago
Can someone tell me how to get to fuse after I open the box
I have the same problem with my 99 dodge ram 2500. But I have came to conclusion that it could be a wire harness. Crank cencor. Alternator. Or bad wiring
2000dodgelovers answered 8 years ago
We have a 2000 Durango. The battery drained and then a clicking sound near the passenger airbag started. The only thing that stops it is applying the brake. Any ideas? Could it be the sending unit?
i have a 2005 dodge durango the alternator is bran new after two days from sitting the battery is dead
2000 durango, same issue. Not sure why, but the power amp under the dash on the passenger side is so hot you can't hardly touch it. We've disconnected the power amp and that took care of the drain. We noticed two things, 1. Front speakers stopped working. 2. Battery was dead over night. Not sure why the amp is not turning off and why it is getting so hot, but its something to look at for people with this issue. Pull the plastic on the passenger side under the dash and see if your amp is hot. If it is, then for some reason its not turning off. Just haven't figured out why yet.
2007 Dodge Durango slt. Battery went dead. I got a drump start it's running. Now the engine light is on. The tech told me that it reads low voltage.. what is going on?
Daughter has a 2005 Dodge Durango. Went through 3 batteries in 2 months. 15 amp drain on battery. Removed each fuse one at a time. No help in finding the problem. Disconnected both fuse boxes under the hood. Did not impact the 15 amp drain. Problem ended up being a large amp that is upcurrent from both of the fuse boxes that are under the hood. The configuration of the wiring for the Durango defies any logic. The Durango folks appeared to really have a faulty design. Unclear removing the amp does to the operation or use of the vehicle. But, removal did not seem to impact anything else other that no longer a battery drain. Doubt if the radio or radio stereo will now work. Think the bad amp was in the foot well fuse box.
gizmos99durango answered 6 years ago
A friend just gave me her "99" Durango and it was draining the battery over night. I found what it was. In this Durango I noticed you could remove the key in any position on the ignition switch, I dont know about you, but I"m used to turning the key all the way counter clockwise and remove it to turn the car off. Well, because the key comes out of the ignition at any point on the switch, you can make the mistake of turning the key all the way counter clockwise and pull the key out, and your battery's dead the next morning. Why you ask? Because when you thought you had turned it off you didn't. You left it in the accessory position (all the way to the left) there for draining the battery. The key needs to be removed at the position which locks the ignition to actually switch it off. I"m assuming this is a faulty ignition switch component. Hope this helps.
Also if your having computer issues with your Durango, send it off to SIA Electroni"s: And have no more issues for life. http://siaelec.com/product/dodge-durango-ecm-ecu-repair-return/
My durango is putting out 32 voles and I changed the computer and it still putting it out.
My Durango will not keep charge while running I replaced the battery and the alternator twice and as soon as when I tap the gas the gauge starts dropping or it does as soon ass I start it
I have the same issue with 04 Dodge Durango limited .2 days battery dead .I looked for short finding none .I pulling 1 fuse at a time and did not have any volts drop on my volt meter also the relays no change .I replaced battery still draining battery .I replaced the battery ends also no change .I do hear a clicking some where under the dash & also under the hood but i can not tell where its coming from .any help would be great .thanks
You ever get that figured out my truck dose the same thing every 7 mins all night long I know it has something to do with the motor for the lid for the vents but there is alot there to try to check
I want everyone to be aware of a relative repair to the thread, that ive done recently. 2006 dodge durango 4.7l v8. Performed a parasitic draw test, which showed about 5 amp (battery drained in a few hours). Dropped around 3.5 amp when i pulled F1 15 amp fuse under dash, drivers side, supplies "instrument cluster battery feed". I also found that disconnecting ignition switch module on steering column left side under clamshell, allowed the electronics to sleep, which dropped another 1.2amp, finally resting around 500 milli -amp. At this point i found the ignition key cylinder to be faulty, the key could be removed in almost all positions. The owner of the vehicle would turn key to "acc" thinking it was in off position and leaving vehicle, to later find battery to low to crank. A new or peoperly working key cylinder, the positions such as "acc", "off", "run", and "start", will be clearly identified by feel, where they lock into respective positions and the key can not be removed in any positions other than off. Conclusion, the faulty part in this case is the "ignition key cylinder". Hope this helps!! Take care.