Fuse 27

You didn't say what fuse #27 does. I assume it started after replacing fuse #27. That failed fuse may have set the check engine light. Scan for codes and see what it was, and if it relates in anyway with fuse #27. Or just cancel the code and see if it comes back. If that fuse fails again, you should investigate further and fix accordingly.

I found more info on this. Fuse #27 runs the fuel pump. It's a common problem and Ford makes a "fuel pump fuse relocation kit" for $20. Call your Ford dealer and ask for Ford part # WT-56872-EL3Z_14293-A. You can find a good video on YouTube on how to solder it in.

Have a 2013 F150 FX2 V8, had this same issue just yesterday evening afternoon being out of the house running errands and whatnot all day long. Went to leave the house at 9pm and would not start. Interesting not is when starting, the key would seem like it gets stuck and would continue trying to start. Upon some Google research, and noticing the results with Fuse 27, fuel pump relay fuse, it was blow. I swapped it with a spare from the passenger side fuse box and started right up. Will look into the relocation kit after this issue.

We were stranded in NOLA for almost 24 hours trying everything possible. Read this post and Bam $3.27 later we were on the road with our new fuse #27

Had same issue, engine would crank but not start. I also had battery light come on a couple times in the week prior to the fuse failing. Found burnt fuse, once replace truck running great for 2 weeks now. Strangely enough I also found my mileage went up almost 2 mpg, was averaging 15.5 and now at 17.5 consistently (over 1000 miles logged). Glad I found this post online, fixed the issue in 15 minutes for under $5 !

Had the same issue with my 2009 Ford F150 4.6 truck turned off while I was driving I tried turning it back on nothing it just kept trying to turn over so I looked into the fuse box i found fuse #27 file pump hopefully anyone having the same problem first look into the fule pump fuse thanks to everyone who posted about there find it saved me big time God bless.

THE FORD DEALER SHIP JUST CHARGED ME $450.00 FOR THE KIT, AND FUSE, AND TO INSTALL THE KIT, LABOR. WOW SHOULD OF LOOKED IT UP FIRST. AND CARRIED EXTRA FUSE.

You guys are awesome!! Worked like a charm. Cleared up wrench and check engine light as well. No longer stalling while driving and increase of power.

Thank you to all who posted! This saved me a lot of time and headaches. Also, it appears this fuse, before it failed completely, was causing hesitation when i was trying to downshift-accelerate. I suppose that is when the fuel pump is drawing the most amps, and it was making me think my transmission was going bad. So... why isn’t this a recall item?! It’s obviously a crappy design.

Thank you! It’s Friday and I was going to take 2014 F150 in Monday. I replaced the fuse and it started right up!

Thank you all! Same problem on my 2013 F150. Got battery warnings for a few trips prior to not starting. Had it towed to shop, strangely started without problem. But I noticed slight reduction in power and MPG, and after a few weeks, wouldn’t start again. Changed fuse 27, fired back up as good as new. No check engine light, even took it over for my annual state emissions. Passed no problem.

I have a 2009 Ford F-150 and I got stuck at a park lot my fuse was burn and I bought a new pack of 15,20,25,30 fuses they all got burnt so what should I do ?? Help me I’ve been spending money for nothing ...

why do they suggest / sell a kit to relocate this fuse?? they sell a relocation kit but why should it be relocated?? so heat doesnt bother neighboring fuses???

Just replace the fuse with the next larger size up of the 20amp fuse and it will work just fine, and you wont have the problem with digging out the pins if it burns out again. It fits in the slot fine, but the plastic will stand up higher than the rest. You don't need the wiring kit.

For me Im 99% sure its the crankshaft position Sensor and the damn thing is behild the passenger head of the motor and I cant pull the darn thing out!!! its got o-Rings I think holding it in there!!!!! at my wits end with this thing/truck........ can get good grip with needle nose pliers and wiggle it but it wont come out!!!!

Unbeleivable. Wtf fuse burns but doesnt blow. Have to say dont think putting a larger fuse is advisable. not sure why the heat builds up but usually its due to resistance at the place were heat is generated. Im going to try cleaning it and replacing and i am going to check it with my thermal imaging camera. ill update soon

Just a thought upon closer inspection of the fuse only one side is affected, that being the side closest to the engine which is the side that has the power. I tested for resistance and found a small amount (not much though). My theory is that the fuel pump draws quite a bit and the batch of fuses are made of a plastic that cant handle it.

One last thing. My battery terminal was quite loose, not sure if that had anything to do with it (resisitance heat etc). replaced it and inspected it with thermal imaging camera, nothing unusual. Seems to be running fine.

Thanks for the posts!!! This issue affects all F-150s! My 2013 Ford F-150 with 3.7 engine just had these same issues described above. For the last few weeks the battery light came on/off. Had it fully tested but no issues found with battery or alternator. Continued to happen. Then the truck wouldn't start; the key would seem to get stuck and starter kept spinning until you pulled the key back to the off position. Found this site and many, many others about fuse 27 failures. Turned out upon inspection, my fuse 27 was melted like all the other photos. Once the repair kit arrives I'll relocate the fuse. However, Ford should have recalled this and proactively made the repair. Ford is being penny-wise and pound- foolish not resolving these types of design flaws. As a life-long Ford enthusiast, this is the second major non-recall problem I've had with the last Ford I'll ever own!!!!

This almost got me killed today. I left the house to go get boudain off of highway 190. Pulled into the turning lane and waited for traffic to clear as soon as I hit the accelerator the truck died leaving me half way in the oncoming lane just staring at 65mph traffic. Truck wasn't going start...the battery lasted trying a full 6 minutes before someone finally helped me push it across. 911 took 15 minutes. Finding the fuse took me a couple googles. I'm not a Ford fan today.

Fuse 27 is a low profile min-fuse meaning the plastic is between the 2 pins and will melt because the fuse box gets very hot. Replace it with a 20 amp regular mini-fuse where the plastic is above the hole and stays cooler - it fits. This is easier than the fuse relocation kit.

I had the same issue and changed that fuse. Now my check engine light is on when I turn my truck on. But when I start it it’s not there! I’m also having this weird thing happen we’re I have my car in park and on and my headlights aren’t working but when I switch to drive mode there on. I’m not sure what it is or if that’s normal but I’m trying to figure it out or if anyone else has experienced it.

Wife of the year. Husband's F150 wouldn't start this morning so he took my car to work. Pulled fuse 27 and bought a replacement - started right up! Thanks for the tips.

Fuse #27 I hate you! It's been 17000 miles since this problem last happened and now burnt through 3 fuses today driving back from a hot Yosemite with trailer and family in tow. Any ideas to what causes the fuse to blow? Hot days, dirty gas, fuel pump / filter? Or is it just that the fuse slot is unreliable and needs to be bypassed? Thanks!

Happened to me twice, no warning light, both times I was low on fuel. I took it to the Ford dealership, both times it started the next day for them. Fond this post am picking the truck up today, buying fuses.