dodge dakota idling and dying

I have had the same problem, and this corrected it. Remove the air breather cover, and look on the driver side of the throttle body. There is a Throttle position sensor there. Use 2 torx bits to remove it. Once removed, you will see a round piece on the inside part of it. This is a little wheel under slight tension. Very carefully using a flathead screwdriver, turn the wheel and let it snap back a few times, then reinstall. This takes about 5 minutes to do, and it has worked for me. Please award points if this helps

That didn't help my truck. I have replaced the crank sensor, mass air flow, tps, fuel/air sensor, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs and wires. She still shuts off. I could be driving along and it is like someone took the motor out of her.... she will just die. lately when first starting she will roll over then die.... Not sure what else to do with it...

check your catalytic converter it may be plugged, also you could check the map sensor

I found out the it is the computer telling the auto shut down relay to shut down. Now to figure out why the computer is telling it to shut down.... a mechanic friend said it could be the distributor shaft 99% or it is the relay fuse 1%. I wouldn't be lucky enough to be in that 1% though.

thanks but it was the fuel injectors they where clogged.

you can try and check your fuel injectors and your IAC valve it is an easy fix if its the problem

Thanks! Sorry to hijack your thread. All fuel seems fine. Got a reading from an OBD1 and egr, crank sensor and a/c clutch came up. Replaced the second crank sensor and she worked fine until this morning, drove 18kms and she shut off again. After sitting for 30 minutes she started right up and made the drive back home with no problems... Gonna check for ground wires under the pan hopefully my problem is there LOL

Yeah it sounds like and electrical problem.

clean the throttle body and throttle plates the engine is not getting enough air. After you clean it disconect the battery for 5 minutes re connect and start the engine and let it idle for 5 minutes then drive it and the problem should be gone

fuel pump

changed fuel pump already. How hard is it to change the fuel injectors can I do it myself.

this truck is a pain i n the ass

my '03 dakota with a 3.9 V-6 started to die at idle. Guess what the issue was? the muffler was shot.

my 97 dakota sport will run fine one day and not the next .. ill be driving and it will die and sometimes if it keeps rolling it will kick its self back on it or it wont and sometimes it starts right back up sometimes not i replaced the coil in it and all plugs and wires still no change and if it turns off i smell gas idk if its becuase its getting to much gas and chokes it or not enough ...or if its the caytalic converter clogging it up it sometimes back fires a lil either in out the air intake or tail pipe ..so i think its either not getting the gas or cant get out the fumes let me know what you think or if its something completely different

you know what fixed mine? the muffler was going bad and I had the new one on hand. Some forum somewhere said to put the new muffler in and it cleared up the problem completely. Thanks for your reply.

I have a 1992 dodge dakota that dies on me at stop signs and when I take my foot off the gas pedal. A gas cured my problem

*gas filter*

You might have water in your fuel use some gas treatment in it

My dakota 97 is very acceleration alrealy put a new idle sensor still the same all the sensor fine what is the problem I need somebody to tell me what to do

my 2002 dodge Dakota was starting however gas fuel gauge was showing empty and then would die out then I would wait a little while and it would start then would go for a little bit and die out so when I was told the fuel pump I was wondering why that would affect the gas gauge so I decided to go under hood and found the relay sensor for the fuel and pulled it out cleaned it and pushed it back in and now its starting again easy... however I am going to get a new one as I want to make sure this does not happen again

My 94 dodge Dakota does the same thing, it dies randomly when I am driving, completely shuts off. It also dies if I start it and let it sit for too long. I replaced the spark plugs but that didn't fix anything not sure what it is at this point.

Had the same problem with my 98 Dakota. It was just the Negative battery end. For some reason when the cable end is not clean and tight it will not idle.

Idle air control valve its on backside of throttle body take out and clean it or replace only 38 bucks at auto my 92 had the same problem

My 99 Dakota sport 5.2 V8 has had a fuel issue. When its in idle it likes to die from time to time. When I am driving it sometimes will not go. I'll give it gas and the rpms just go down, almost seems like its a misfire. I've had the truck for like 3 weeks now and I bought it from a friend and we always worked on it. We replaced abunch of parts including spark plugs. I took a tester to it and an o2 sensor and speed sensor came up. Should this resolve my issue?

Fuel pump was also replaced. Its causing me to burn major gas and I cant afford that because I'm laid off right now from my main job.

2003 dodge Dakota, I had the same problem. It was my idler not being controlled properly. Quick free fix. Unhook your battery for a about 10-20 seconds, let everything reset and he idle right again. Only downfall was if the truck ever ran the battery down it would take a couple of resets after the jump to get it idling properly again.

I have a 2000 3.9 manual 4x4 that dies when i press in the clutch while braking and let the rpms drop completely down. for example coming to a red light in third so i hit the clutch and come to a complete stop and its now dead the weird part is that no lights turn off, its not like it stalls out or anything the engine just shuts down. This started only today after my brake light and ABS light came on with my speedometer doing absolutely nothing. the brake/abs light and speedo i think are from the speed abs speed sensor in the rear but would that cause the motor to die like that??

1993 Dakota 3.9 4x2 manual. Dies occasionally also, just like ryanodhrty's (for example coming to a red light in third so i hit the clutch and come to a complete stop and its now dead the weird part is that no lights turn off, its not like it stalls out or anything the engine just shuts down). Haven't been able to figure it out for 3 years. Ground connections, speed sensor or fuel injectors are my current guesses?? I've fixed the corroded splice problem (wiring harness, driver side, splice C26, http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/2m2k3-1992-dodge- dakota-2wd-v6-auto-will-not-start-crank.html ) once, so I don't think it is that, but it may be failing again or a different splice.

been thry it all. replaced pcm..tcm..and still dont work, while the check enging light is on the truck runs great.... as soon as it learns the pcm light will go off and truck pops..misses and runs like crap and wont stay on unless i give it gas, been to dealer now 3 times paying over 500.00 for them to tell me what i already know... pcm fail to comunicate.. why.. its new and replaced now 3 times?

all I know is that the problem in my '03 2.5 liter engine was fixed when I replaced the exhaust system. prior to that it would occasionally miss climbing hills, and would die at idle. Another issue was that (duh) the battery connection got crudded up. clean it up so that a full jolt of voltage is delivered to the computer. I cannot overemphasize this point. Go buy a battery brush and make those connections shine!!

I was having some similar issues like this myself. I believe I found the fix (at least for my 97 5.2 Dakota). I replaced the battery. Ran fine for about a year, then started stalling at low rpms again. Took the battery back and exchanged it for a new one, but this time I replaced the alternator with it. It seems these trucks rely heavily on the charging system. I teplaced those both at the same time last November and haven't had any issues yet. Before that, I changed plugs & wires, cap & rotor, throttle positioning sensor, idle air control module, air filter, and no longer have a catalytic converter, so the battery and alternator were the last and final things I tried and it seemed to do the trick! Hope this helps!

I have no answer. I need to know why my gas gauge reads empty when there is 3/4 tank of gas. It was running (idling), then died. It will turn over, but won't start now

Hello all !! I had a similar problem with my '97 V6 Dakota. My battery was over 7 years old. It really didn't seem to have a problem cranking the engine over. But over the last month it would start fine in the morning. I would run it around a little and shut it down. When I would go to restart it, it would crank over, run for a second and die. I would have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running. One cold morning the battery barely cranked the engine over. I got it going, ran it to the store and bought a battery. It's been fine ever since. I had read other forums from people with the same problem. Changing the battery cured their problem and mine as well

Mine done same thing. I replaced the idol control censor it still done it but as I kept looking and reading I found specs on the I.c.censor found out it came set wrong. It suppose to be set between 1 inch and 1 1/3 inch away from the body of censor mine came set at 1 1/2 inch away I set it to 1 inch and have not had a problem since. Hope this helps. I went 2 years not knowing so glad it's fixed now. Even putting it on a computer couldn't find the problem.

I have a 1993 Dodge dakota and it would idle rough , shake and act like it was missing. I already replaced all the sensors on the whole motor and it did not fix it. i was tinkering around with it and unplugged the number 1 fuel injector and it would run fine on 7 cylanders but if you plug it in it would kill the motor. The injector is good i tested it so i splice into the other injector and it run fine no more problems but now my engin light wont go off cause i cut into injector curcuit. I wish i knew why the number 1 injector wires shut down my truck?

My 2000 Dakota 4.7 is doing some weird stuff. When it's cold it starts/runs without issue. Once it warms up the RPM's raise to around 14-1500 and stay there when in park or neutral, then drop to normal levels when I shift to drive or reverse. If I turn the truck off then restart it it acts like it's not getting fuel unless I give it gas. It also sometimes stall when in drive at stop lights unless I hold down the gas pedal. If anyone can help let me know.

I can start my truck once a day and it will run about 15 to 20 seconds then die don't matter if I floor it or pat the gas it just dies fuel pump works and I replaced the fuel filter but if I try and crank it the second time it won't start up it turns over and all just won't start and run could the injectors be clogged and if so would I be able to clean them myself and put new o rings on besides paying 300$ for all 6 injectors? Or could it be another problem? Please help

Hi everyone . I have a 97dodge dakota sport with a 3.9and also had a similar problem ,I replace plugs,wires,solenoid rotor button,distributor cap,check my fuel pump and filter,and also replace the crank shaft position senser still nothing,until one day it won't start at all and I was able to troubleshoot my spark,it was my computer not sending the signol out to injectors and coil,got a new one and it's benn running perfect for about 3 months ,put in about 4000miles in it on 3months and now I have a problem with ,in morning it will start just fine some times it would dye with in a 5minutes time and sometimes it won't but what happens then it's the as I'm driving it it will hasitate a little and my fuel gauge will show that I'm out of gas or the gas gauge will fluctuate open and down and my rpmr Will go up and down also like it's going to die even if it doesn't die completely and if it die completely I let it sit for a minute or 2 and it will start right back ,normally it would do it only once in a trip,long trip or a short trip or sometimes she just does it ones day. And That's my probleblem. Now I'm wondering if is my a fuel pump Or my fuel pump relay,any suggestions??

My son has a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport and when we bought it the idol was high. Well we bought a new battery and the idol went to normal. Now it will shut off going down the road or at a stop sing or red light. Sometimes if you wait 5 mins it will crank right back up but most of the time you have to wait a long time until the motor completely cools off then it will crank up and drive fine. My son always has problems in the evening time coming home from work. About 2 or 3 times a week this happens it will not jump off. The engine will turn over but will not crank like the battery is dead but it has a new battery. We have replaced the battery again the crankshaft sensor and another sensor I can't remember that one. The problem was fine for about 2 weeks now the same thing is happening again. Can someone PLEASE HELP ME TO KEEP WASTING SO MUCH MONEY. donna_wesson2002@yahoo.com

Have a '97 Dakota SLT with a slew of problems. Usual sloppy steering and crappy tranny performance that most dodge trucks have. But reading down this list of posts from everyone, I can see a possible, if not, probable, cause for the majority of these problems. My dakota also has computer problems, battery problems, sensors not working problems, weak brake and backup lights, etc. Basically... electrical problems. I received an Associates degree in Electronic technology years ago, and I'm going to give you a $24,000 education in one quick shot. Here you go... 99% of electrical and electronics problems are caused by the POWER SUPPLY. Our vehicles are subjected to excessive heat and cold, water, salt, vibration and shock (as in potholes, curbs, and the occasional off-roadage). Probable cause of these problems - corroded ground connections and perhaps even some internally corroded wiring. I used a jumper wire to go around the ground wire in my taillight wiring, and the lights perked right up. The battery ground to the frame was pretty corroded too. Wire brushed it and it's working great now. Suggestion... after you clean both the connection end and the body ground point, put some dielectric grease on both before retightening. Computer? Clean where the computer mounts to the frame and the ground wire point. Old name--Hi-Fidelity... where everything works together.

Yeah a bad Dodge pcm can cause your car to stall, turn off while driving or put you in a bad situation if you need to accelerate to merge into traffic. But the good news is they are very easy to replace and there are a few places where you can order online at half the cost of a local auto part or dealership! Solo Automotive Electronics is one of a few that are top rated for shipping out a rebuild Dodge Dakota PCM and others like it.

Yeah a bad Dodge pcm can cause your car to stall, turn off while driving or put you in a bad situation if you need to accelerate to merge into traffic. But the good news is they are very easy to replace and there are a few places where you can order online at half the cost of a local auto part or dealership! Solo Automotive Electronics is one of a few that are top rated for shipping out a rebuild Dodge Dakota PCM and others like it.

My '97 Dakota 5.2 V8 was and has been running fine. I left the dome light on and had to recharge the battery. When I started the engine it would die at idle, but would keep running if I kept the accelerator engaged, running the engine about 2000 rpm. I decided that the problem must be related to the battery, so I cleaned both posts and retightened, even though both appeared to be corrosion free. I also cleaned the connections on both the fuel pump relay and the auto shutdown relay. This seems to have solved the problem. While it could be another issue, I chose to work on the problem that seemed might be related to the dead battery issue. I plan to clean all the body grounds as well in the near future.

I did the same things. I even cleaned the contacts on the ECM. My battery lasted a couple of months more. But I still had problems. Only when the battery completely died and I had to replace it with the new one, did the problems stop completely. I don't know how long it took your dome light to kill the battery, but yours may not be too far off.

I just bought a 2000 Dodge Dakota and its been doing the same thing. Only while I'm breaking or parked though. I've had it about a month and it has died about 8 times already. I don't know what to do

Woggums and everyone else!!!!! I have a 96 Dakota that was doing the same. Dying while driving or idling at a light but would always start right back up by dropping in into neutral. 5 months of trying most of the same things as others on this blog and she would still die. So frustrating but I couldn't give up on her. Looking a another blog last night and a man named Ed Hennessee said that it was a Speed Sensor. Today I bought one and had it installed. The old sensor had transmission fluid in it and had seeped into the connection and he even found the tran. Fluid in the wires. She runs like a top now. EVERYONE CHECK THE SPEED SENSOR before anything else (only 36 bucks!!!!!

Ed Hennessee had said that if the speed sensor was bad that the computer couldn't tell if it was running or not and shut down. Made sense to me!!!!

Mine must be the crank shaft positioning sensor because my rpm gauge wont work. I have been dangerously stranded twice. I tightened my battery cables and now it runs like a top, but I still won't trust it. I recently had to replace the power steering high pressure line, Im pretty sure it has saturated the crank sensor. unfortunately I already ordered a new PCM so now its a process of elimination. I want to sue Dodge for building in a deadly common intentional failure

I have a 95 Dodge Dakota, that runs ok at start, not a lot of get up and go, but it goes, I know I need a tune up, but when it warms up, it likes to drag it feet when I start up and backfire sometimes. its gets "10 Miles per Gallon." Just last week the fuel pump went out on me. Didn't know it right away, so I checked all the cheap easy fixes I could while I was at work, sense it quit on me at work. No corrosion in the wiring under the fuse box. Fuel pump fuse is good, and now it has a brand new Ignition coil on it. Finally decided the try the fuel pump, bought a new 1 and replaced it. Good news, its runs again. starts up with no problem. Bad news, its still gets sluggish and back fires when it gets hot, or I drive it around a lot. I replace the IAC valve, and it didn't fix it. I plan on replacing the MAP sensor, and the Throttle sensor, in hopes of those working. And I hope when I replace the spark plug and wires, it takes care of the miss it has, if not I'm getting a new Distributor cap and rotor. and other ideas? I didn't notice if it had a Catalytic convertor or not on it. I'm thinking someone already guessed at that and removed it. I have to look again. Or the Muffler. Now the Negative Battery post can be removed by hand, after seeing some of yours guys post, now I want to check the battery and the ground connections. MY other issue is, when I first get in the truck and start driving it, when I make a turn and give it gas, if I really push on the throttle, it makes a rubbing sound, metal on metal, and sometimes while accelerating it likes to shake, any good leads on what to check on that?

I bought a new ecu on e bay motors from a place in ft Lauderdale they had incredible customer service and the specially programmed brain was $200 with a full year warranty. Free shipping and because I live in Florida I got it the next day before 4 o'clock in the afternoon it took them less than 24 hours to deliver unbelievable anyway the new engine control unit solved 99% of my problems

I had very similar issue. I let the battery run out and after I charged the battery up, it would start up but wouldn't idle. As soon as I let the foot off the gas it would die. Did some research and it ended up being my Throttle Position Sensor or TPS. Disconnected the battery, installed the new one and now she starts up and idles just fine. Give it a try!

I have a 93 Dakota with the 3.9 engine, and it floods itself out when I put it in any gear. I replaced the MAP sensor and the Throttle position sensor and cleaned the Idle Air Control, nothing helps. It doesn't do it all the time, and it seems to be temperature sensitive. It's ok when I first start it, but as soon as it warms up, it dies at stop signs. I have to put the gas all the way to the floor and it starts back up, but dies as soon as I put it in gear. This truck is a major pain.

I replaced the iac tps map camshaft and crank sensors mine still dies checked the pcm connections even replaced 2 relays for the fuel pump and auto shutdown. The battery is OK but I don't know what else to do. I've been reading and there has been no real answer on why my 1997 Dakota keeps dying it's a 3.9 automatic slt. Any real answer will help.

Ryanodhrty and viper2max I'm having the same problem with my 99dakota v8 5.2 idle seems lower than normal and when I downshift and brake and put it in nuteral coming to a red light or stop sign my truck dies.. No engine lights come on and I can't pop start it . I've replaced distributer cap rotor wires plugs I've checked vacuum lines cleaned throttle body replaced idle control censor and still nothing ... Even dry gas.. So I'm wondering how you fixed it or what was wrong.. If anyone for that matter can help me I would appreciate it my email is tybarron08@gmail.com. thank you

When our 98 Dakota's battery runs all the way down, and I charge the battery, the truck won't idle - dies unless you give it gas - The fix (which has worked 4 or more times so far) is to disconnect the 'charged battery for a few minutes, and re-connect it. It resets the computer and sensors - idles like a champ after re-connection!

Kenneth - timing probably off. Does it put out white or black exhaust? Tune up definitely, change oil, fuel, air filters. Saying which, i have a 1989 3.9L v6 dakota 4x4 automatic. It started cutting out while driving, dangerous etc. Then later also at idle. It would normally start back up either immediately or after several minutes. No CEL. It did throw a code, 11. Which was related to the distributor no hall effect signal. Turned out the spark plugs were very old. Replaced them, no problems for about a month. Now the same problems are back. Replaced the coil...still has issue. Maybe the plug wires..they look fine though. Im leaning towards ignition/electrical over fuel/air. Once it starts it runs fine. Idles low rpms, no vacuum leak probably. I will clean PCM connections and battery connections. Then looking to replace battery and/or PCM if stalling/intermittent starting continues.

I drive a 1992 3.9 dakota Le for 6 years now and 5 of those was fighting said problems above minus electrical. A new distributor is the answer ive put 2 scrap yard distributors in 2 years in it (im broke) everytime its gotten better. The problem inside the distibutor is the pulse ring. That ring runs the pick up coil/hall effect any slack trips auto shut down relay. Thats my conclusion thus far. Thanks for hearing in a very old thread

I have a 1997 dodge Dakota has a 3.9l v6 it kills the motor when shifting gears (it's automatic) also can be driving along and it feels like it looses its gas bogs out but when you hammer the gas pedal it picks it back up, I've changed the whole throttle body all sensors on the throttle body, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs and wires, water pump, circuit time belt, still nothing please help me out Email travisbabineau@hotmail.com

O2 sencer

Anybody try changing coolant temperature sensor ?when it goes bad it makes ur engine run bad , hope this helps some body , good luck....

Check the three plugs connected to your computer one isn't getting a good connection zip ties helped mine

I had a coolant temperature sensor go out on my 95 Camry. The computer defaults to a rich gas mixture makes it hard to start when cold but when the engine warms up then it works fine. The coolant temperature SENSOR is very sensitive to hundredth of a degree, so a precise gas mixture is created.

My 2003 Dakota V6 3.9 manual trans has an electrical missfire. Starts up ok when cold, runs great. After engine is hot, stop, shut off engine. When i attempt to drive it again, engine starts up, but runs sluggish, like on 4 cylinders, popping some. Then suddenly all cylinders kick in, and engine surges forward for a moment then back to misfiring. On and off like flipping a light switch. Then after a few minutes, engine returns to running ok again, until i stop and restart it. I had a GM 1989 fuel injector do that--factor defect with its coil wire alloy, worked ok when cold but shorted out when hot. Replaced fuel injector with any other non GM brand fixed problem.

I just bought a 1999 dodge Dakota Sport V6 with the magnum engine. I put a brand new battery in it, changed the oil, cleaned my idle sensors, took the stock air filter out and put a new one in, she ran fine all day yesterday, but when I tried to start it today, it idled and killed, started again and it went to 800 and stayed on so I left it on for about 10 minutes, killed it and it started right back up. My check engine light isn't coming on so I don't know the what's wrong with it.

I took the air intake off my 03 durango and cleaned it out now when i go to crank it itll act as if the battery is weak but it isnt. Its not showing any codes and when it does turn over it runs fine.???? Im at a loss someone help me here. It didn't start till i cleaned tbe intake and i was sure not to touch any sensors.

So im having a similar problem. Im 01 sport with the 4.7 will idle with a horrible back fire and stalls out when ever i go to break.

Still having rough idle when hot, problems. Can't remember the DTC code said running rich on bank 1. Well that is caused by the miss firing unburned fuel hitting the O2 sensor on bank 1 (exhaust manifold with #1 spark plug). It's an electrical short at one of those 3 spark plugs. Replace spark plugs? Or replace coil pick up ring as suggested above? Maybe the 3 fuel injectors in bank 1 is miss firing? Maybe need to replace O2 sensor wire connectors?

Lol it the break booster! Caused by a vaccume leak

I NEED HELP.... My 2003 Dodge ram 1500 was running great at one point and out of no where when exiting off the interstate my truck began muttering and sputtering as if it would die so to just get me to the house, whenever i would approach a redllight I would throw it in neutral and rev it high to prevent it from dying. Well, I got home and the next day i cranked it up and it immediately backfired causing a hole in my intake manifold. Well, I replaced the entire piece and now it still runs in low RPM's and then eventually dies after a few seconds and then will not turn back over after 2nd attempt... ANY ideas???

1989 dodge dakota tbi 3.9 liter v6. ok so the throttle positioning sensor I have is the 4 pin, and in the haynes manual it says that the bottom pin should be at most 5 volts and mine reads 8! Engine turns over, got spark, it seems to be dumping too much fuel. HELP PLEASE!

Well wrote whole page of info but it made me love in and took away what I wrote so here's practically said replace head gaskets resurface heads and Re seat valves get new gaskets and new head bolts gaskets start to go bad around 80,000 and heads start to wrap around 120,000 miles water leaks into pistons on power stroke and water leaks into exhaust on power stroke this usually happens. To old vehicles and vehicles the have zero matianace done to them

Most likely gonna be a map sensor.

It worked.. Thanks buddy

Thanks for your help with my idling. The spring thingy worked.

I have a 1988 dodge dakota 3.9 v6 4x4 and it will sometimes start right up but but often times it will crank and crank and crank but won't start. When it does start up as soon as I'm at a stop it dies out suddenly without sputtering or anything . and once again it cranks and cranks and cranks but no start then floods out so bad to where gasoline is leaking from tailpipe.. I've changed distributor wires and rotor still won't start.. Any advice please email me mdsbks661@gmail.com

my truck had same problem. what i found was my egr valve was dirty i clean it and also cleaned a small little steel pipe coming out of the valve,s base that was also clogged ,i put every thing back together with a new gasket and fired it up and 4 months later its still working fine. hope this helps some of you out there. happy hollidays

there,s also a not very often problem that happens when your truck dont want to start , this happened to me ,my truck left me about 15 miles from home and would not start so i had it towed home ,for the next 2 months i could not figure what the problem could be after checking everything including distributor, so this time i open the unit again and this this time decided to go a little deeeper . i took the cap off,i took the hall effect or ignition pickup under this is your hall trigger wheel and that is the culprit that came off its plastic base. hope this is helpful to some one out there,...

replace the electronics in the distributor cap.Can't remember name but it replaced the points.

My 96 Dakota 4wd w/3.9 V6 was experiencing the no idle without my foot on the accelerator and it seemed like the starter was bucking when it would start. I ended up changing the battery and it fired right up and idled fine. I'm going with change the battery for my final answer

Same issue but my issue was a weak electric fuel pump.

I have a similar problem. I have little power when accelerating and it will die when I stop at a stop sign. It's a 92 Dakota with a 3.9. also has a problem with backfiring

Adjust throttle valve cable , works for me.. but I have all other new part..

Get rid of your Dakotas. I've dealt with problems ever since I've had mine. They're junk!

I no longer have the Dakota. I have a Ranger for the last 3 years now. The Dakota wasn't perfect, but it was the perfect sized truck. I enjoyed the 15 years that I drove it. If I could put the Ranger's drive train in that Dakota body, I would gladly drive it another 15 years.

I have a 2001 Dakota with a 4.7, for a long time I had a morning hard start condition along with a hesitation and subsequent stall after a hard accel, you would step on it and expect it to stall at the corner, finally my ECM went out, and I thought that that might solve the problem, but lo and behold...after noticing a recurring P0108 DTC (MAP sensor voltage too high) I happened to notice the brake lights stayed on, so I just pulled up the pedal a couple of times...and wait a minute here!!!! Then noticed how every time I goosed it the brake pedal would pull down by itself! and knowing there is no such thing as ghosts in my machine...replaced the brake booster (again, it was fairly new), and that solved the problem, I hope this helps someone with that kind of weird problem, I'm a mechanic, have been for the past 25 years solid, and never seen anything like that.

I normally drive chevy s 10s had three of t hem and loved all of them but they stopped making them a few months ago I threw a crank and had to park it. forced to get an o5 dodge Dakota love the truck but like others have this same dam engine idle issue and brakes squeak. took it to the dodge dealer in pocallo since I got it there they have to fix it or the warranthy I got don't cover it. they (say) they checked it out and can find nothing wrong with the idle no codes they say what kind of mechanics are they I think they just don't wanna put the time and money into a used vehicle they are not making any money on.

clean the battery posts. Unhook the battery posts and clean them from top to bottom. Make the posts on the battery itself clean. Clean the body grounds especially where the negative battery goes. Check all of the connections and make sure that they are clean. Worked for me.

If you are not driving your truck enough, short drives, and the battery is low on charge, even slightly, you will have stalling problems. Why? I don't know the answer to it. My truck does it too. I unhook the battery negative, leave it for a bit, connect it again and it works fine for quite a while. How I know that it's going to start doing the stalling thing again - when I first start it up in the morning, if it doesn't do the fast idle thing for a bit, then the stalling thing will happen again. Disconnect the battery, leave it for a few minutes, connect again. If you could put a bigger battery in, do it. Dodge is bad for this for some reason or another. Hope this helps.

So I’ve got the 97 Dakota 3.9 automatic transmission. I have been having this problem and dumping money like no other into it to get parts and couldn’t figure it out. Well was just getting ready to replace the tcc solenoid and took the accumulator plate off and the spring was broken. I’ll be replacing hopefully soon and it should fix the problem, hopefully this helps y’all out too.

Had exact same problem with 92 3.9. Sprayed EGR valve with non flammable brake parts cleaner with engine running. Used maybe half a can of cleaner. Covered entire driveway with white smoke for about 10 minutes until crud was cleaned out of EGR. Blew pieces of what looked like charcoal out of tailpipe. Engine idles and starts like new now.