Vehicle cuts out at turns and stops
16 Answers
the first thing to check with any vehicle that wont maintain idle is crud build-up in the throttle body. use a small nylon brush that wont melt in carb cleaner, take the big hose off at the T-body, hold the throttle open with your right hand and spray the walls of the body and the throttle plate, scrub it out and spray again.after all is clean put the hose back on making sure there are no holes or splits in the hose. it will a little ruff till the cleaner is cleared out but idle should instantly improve
Check to see if you have any codes stored. Also check the idle air control valve(IAC). When they go bad it will also cause the same issues and will not always throw a code. It might just need cleaning.
GreaseMonkeyMama answered 11 years ago
Reading the above answers! Thank you for confirming of what I have speculated all along! Mechanics where trying to pass on me this ridiculous bill for repairs that had NOTHING to do with the problem. The art of mechanics is gone it seems like. If it doesn't generate a code apparently it is not a problem. ;) I originally suggested the 2 problems a month ago & they just laughed. Decided to tackle it myself & sure enough it cured the problem! This is such a great resourceful site! :)
Glad you got it fixed. Drive safe
01_Yukonlover answered 9 years ago
Been having that problem for a while now, turns out it was the crank shaft position sensor. I had it replaced no more cutting off!!!! Of course I had the fuel pump changed, gas tank dropped, fuel filter changed. Over the course of time trying to figure the problem out. Hot this helps and saves someone any unnecessary spending.
I had the same problem. 05 Suburban. It first stalled pulling out into traffic, left turn, dead stall, no stearing, traffic coming - scary. I was able to get out of the way. It started right up. Ran fine for a day. Then did it again. A day later again. At this point I was just praying over my car. It got worse (not saying anything about God.) A couple days later I noticed it was only on left turns. I went to two dealers and two repair shops. No clue. I told them about theories on this thread and others... they rolled their eyes. "only on left turns?" no way. has to be a wire short. They didn't have time, I was traveling out of state. The car was still going "straight and right" just fine... so I drove on. then I hit a big bump in the road, and it stalled, but didn't die. 10 miles later it did it again. I'm in the middle of Oklahoma, and it is getting worse. Finally, I'm in walled in construction, no shoulder, 10 miles of it, and it dies completely. I shift to nuetral and it won't start. It tries, but won't. I'm coasting to a stop, 10mph, and there in front of me is a hole in the concrete barrier that I ease through out of traffic, get towed to a shop and they start pulling on wires. By this time, the car has cooled and it starts fine. They notice on a bunch of wires that run down behind or beside the powersteering pump, that the car will stall if they pull on those. So they slide under and take of the skid plate and disconnect all those wires and pull them up. Cut all the tape off, and examine them. The two little wires going to the AC switch have a kink and a worn spot, one has the plastic off for an 1/8 inch and the wire is exposed. We taped them up... saw no other bad spots and shook our head and put it all back together. For some reason on the left turn and later when it worsened, a bump, the rub got worse and worse and then shorted out completely (when it was hot) The AC was working fine, there had been no engine light codes, but this surge / short had caused the stall. It is working fine now... just drove 200 miles with not one stall. It had gotten so bad that it was stalling every left turn and most bumps in the road. It took 1.5 hours to pull it all out, and put it all back. No parts necessary. Hope this helps.
Yes, Confirmed. I had the same issue of stalling. It seemed to happen on left turns at idle. Mechanic said this is a common problem. Something comes lose and causes the wiring that runs down behind the power steering to get snagged. They had to pull it out and splice wires. It's Fixed!! This is after I cleaned the throttle body and MAF then replaced the CAM sensor, Crank sensor and TPS.
I had the same problem of stalling with my 2003 Yukon XL 1500. Turned the vehicle on and moved the same wire bundle that runs down beside then under the power steering pump. The engine stalled when I moved the wire bundle up and down. I found a grounding wire coming out of the bundle that was frayed, and broke when I moved it. Fixed the grounding wire. Fixed the problem! Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately i read this forum after I spent $1100 with a repair shop and came back home with the same problem.
Wow LOVE this forum! My fiancé and I own a 2003 Yukon XL and it's having stalling problems, only after we go on a bumpy road! We will see if the frayed wiring near the power steering is the issue and update you all.
TrialnError answered 6 years ago
I hope one of these things posted above fixes my 07 Yukon XL Denali! Exact same scenario... runs fine and then after it warms up it wants to stall when slowing way down or stopping. I replaced the fuel pump and fuel pressure sensor, cleaned all of the obvious grounds I could find, blew out the fuel lines. I still only have around 20psi of fuel pressure at the rail when key is in the on position but it climbs to 80psi once it starts and comes to an idle. Seemed high to me, but was told not to worry about that part because it’s probably not my problem. I think a trip to the auto parts store is in order... and handful of sensors and hope for the best!
I just had a 2007 Cadillac that kept shutting off at stop signs and when he slowed down. It ended up being the run/ crank relay
Seafoam it and clean throttle body out durrr start there at least
My. Yukon. Turn signal. Stay. On I can get fix far nothing. I took 3 shop. At least. And can figure it out so if guy can help. I would thank you
I am having the same stalling issues after the car is warmed up, 20 minutes of driving. It stalls and can take up to 15 minutes before it starts again. I have had both crankshaft and camshaft position sensors changed, nothing was fixed. Last time it happened and got it started again there is a rattling sound when I accelerate left side of motor?
I have a 2007 GMC Yukon XL and my car has been turning off onle when coming to a stop. It will turn back on right awaybut later will do same. And it's only when I'm slowing down and coming to stop. I ran the code and it was p0121 so I changed the TPS and it's still turning off on me. Does anyone have any suggestions. I have no money to take to a mechanic.
Does anybody having the low idle stalling while turning know the name of the cable running under the steering pump?