Engine shuts down while driving...

You could have a clogged converter, when it gets hot it chokes the engine. On the other hand, it is more likely that you have a bad fuel pump. Same deal, when it gets hot, it stops working. Lastly, ignition distributors are bad about going out. Run your car in the driveway until it stalls. The pull a plug wire off, put and old spark plug in it, and hold it so the end is by the motor, like a bolt, and have a friend crank it. You will see a spark if the distributor is ok.

could be a bad ignition switch honda has put out a TSB for for the switch... check with a dealer to see if your car falls in the VIN range.

Check the TPS and MAF. If either one of those are bad or not connected it could cause the car to stall under heavy acceleration. Im not a professional, so dont quote me. I have some experience but I am not a technician.

These hondas have a couple of things that will cause this, it is either the distriutor, the ignition switch starting to go bad, or the EFI main relay. the relay is the first step cause it is cheap 20 to 30 bucks from honda, the distributor is about 600 bucks and from my time at the shop dont try an aftermarket rebuilt, hondas dont like them and then you got to go to honda for the real one anyway. if it is the ignition switch just jiggle the key while the car is running, if it dies you are out about 100 bucks for the switch.

I agree with Joshua on this one. My Accord had a similar problem, except it would not start sometimes as well. Moisture was getting into the starter cap and affecting everything inside. Just replaced the cap and assembly inside and works well once again. Was about 150 to 200 dollars I think. I don't think its your intake. I have one as well and if your filter was dirty, you would notice poor performance before it would shut down your car. Who knows until you actually give it a try. Hope someones advice helped!

i have a 99 accord and it recent blowed the ecu/ cruise control fuse i changed it then it blew it again but after awhile it stop blowing well now it runs great but when i go to get down on it it dont seem to have the power it should idk what it could be before that fused blowed it ran good but ever since it did the mph gauge dont work and the engine light doesnt not even come on for the 2 sec it should and it use to stay on cause of the cat but i knew that and also the ignition has been shutting off on me like u just turn it off yourself idk what it could be i was thinking it was in the ignition i need help with it

my honda does this weird stall thing when i sit in traffic, it doesnt completely turn off it just sputters. its so hard to explain but you can hear the engine working like twice as hard. i havent done anything to fix anything yet

I have a 199 8 Honda Accord with a four cylinder it runs fine at times but sometimes it will shut down and won't start back up and when it do start back up it just hurt her and act like you're starving for Air are gas

My 1998 Accord will shut itself off while I'm driving it. Have checked with Honda and there was a recall on the ignition switch (already replaced previously via recall) but the tech did say the ignition switch is a "wearable" part and could be going bad again. Parts and Labor $195-$205... will be taking it down later this week... will let you know if this was the problem or not. Another thing that can cause this is the key... it's a proximity key and if the car "loses" contact with the key it will turn itself off. New key... ~$30 Hope this helps...

Mindy pls update us thank u. I just had this issue yesterday. Engine shuts off randomly while driving and even while parked. Distributor replaced, did tune up, tranny fluid flush... I guess tomorrow I'll get the ignition switch fixed and the relay. No mechanic can pin point the issue So i have to try each one out as trial /error...sux... Btw no check engine light on. And when the car shuts off i noticed under the hood is kinda hot compare to usual and sometimes i have to put more water or coolant

When I drive my car it will jerk while Im driving slow down real slow and then take off and cutts off. Sometimes it will crank back up and sometimes I have wait a while then it will crank...I have replace the cadiallic converter, map sensor, and a fuel injection and fill car up. And no one can pin point the problem...Any suggestion ???

I have a 99 Honda accord and while I was driving on the freeway. It died for have a second the started back up. It was freaky. As soon as I got off. It died completely and I had to pull over and restarted again. And I made it home with no further problems. I installed underglow neon and subs a while ago. But reading other responses it could be different. Can someone help me out what this could be?

Same thing happened to my honda crv 1998 i replaced 2 electric parts inside the distributer everything is ok now

I was driving my 91 accord ex down road in the city in second gear about 10mph. Car just shuts off on me and doesn't start back up at all.... I've replaced distributor my main relay is fine.. New plugs new wires. And car still doesn't ever want to start.... What could be my problem??? I'm a Chevy person not a import type of guy... I'm lost at this. First import I've ever owned. Help me out please

I'm having same problem with 95 accord I replace fuel filter and found out that I was losing spark and would start when randomly get spark. I repaced coil dist cap and rotor and I still have shut off problem . my next move might be igniter but still not sure. I'm getting tired of the time and money I'm throwing at this car. Help!!!

I own a 1992 Honda accord mine died on me driving one night....wouldn't start back up...I did everything this page suggested fuel pump, fuel filter ,battery terminal, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets , fuel relay, distributor checked all fuses...all in all $330.00 did all the work myself...and it still don't want to start...you can hear that she wants too....I like the car only 170,000 ...but im stumped its a black hole for money

the same thing happens to my 2001 hyundai elantra but the mechanic said it was because a malfunction with the crankshaft positioning sensor

I have 1996 Honda accord it will work fine and also it will stop pulling if I put my car neutral and turn offs and cranky back up and start back working fine now it want pull at all

My 1998 Honda Accord had the same random shutting off problem. After $400 of wires, distributor,spark plugs and the O2 sensor. The issue continued.Joshua your post was right on the money. I jiggled my key and the car shut off. Installed a new ignition switch and BINGO! The car runs like it should. Thanks

i have a 1995 honda odyssey, and some times wen driving, start feel weak and shut off, and after some minutes is possible starting again and drive, but feel weak, if i push the gas pedal shut off, i have to let go slow and i can run far but if i try to drive as normal good conditions goin off, i change the distributor cap an rotor but still do same thing, so am still looking for a solution to this issue.

95-civic dx- b18 non-vtec 1) Motor ran very good but once I got hot and was turned off it would not start back up until at room temperature Have a good buddy in which I just did his BA team swap so I buy his own EC you for his Honda that I had different realtor but it plug-and-play in my car all are waiting on the other to get sent back. Have a good buddy in which I just did his BA team swap so I buy his old EC you for his Honda that I had different realtor but it plug-and- play in my car all I waiting on the other to get sent back was just curious what causes this problem as far as engine not starting back up as supposed to ??????

Noticed for 1 year my 1999 Honda Accord was shutting off while driving in traffic at top speed and so forth. It was told to Pep Boyz where by my starter was changed, wires and s.plugs. it ran great w/o shutting off for 2-3 mths. It shut off last week, still starts up and will run and I can drive it but I know it will shut down whenever. I contacted a mechanic who worked for my husband 15-20 yrs ago. soon as I told him IMMEDIATELY SAID IT'S YOUR D.CAP. HONDA IS KNOWN FOR THIS PROBLEM. HE LOOKED UNDER THE HOOD AND SAID SEE ITS LEAKING. HE DIDN'T SAY IT COULD BE ANYTHING ELSE. *** I WILL CHECK THE IGNITION SWITCH AND IF SHUTS OFF, I WILL CALL HONDA TO SEE IF THERE IS A RECALL ON THE IGNITION SWITCH. *** when I get work done, I will let the site know how I made out.

I HAVE A 1996 HONDA ACCORD.EVERYTIME I SLOW DOWN IT SHOUT OFF

I have a 2000 Honda Accord and I was having a problem starting it . I would have to beat on my steering wheel to get it to start . So I did a full tune up I also replace the ignition switch and I still had the problem it would also shut off while driving so long story short it ended up being my main relay .. 50 bucks and the car starts like new

I have a 1995 Honda accord ex. I'm reading over all the post, my car is having the same issues. Replaced the relay switch, replaced fuel pump. Still won't start.. Starting to think they are LEMONS!!! Money pit of a never ending cycle... Help!!!

I know exactly what it is. Some people's problems may be different but I have had about 10 Honda's in my life and 4 of them had the same issue. I'm driving down the road could be doing 10 miles per hour or 80 and the car just shuts off and all the switches go down it's an automatic car so I pop it in neutral turn the switch to start it again usually works put it back in drive and just keep on going. When it don't work I simply turn the key again and then it will work. The simple answer to this is your main relay assembly. AutoZone sells them for about $56 and they are usually in stock. The odd thing is that when the AutoZone rep was looking for it the same part number and pictures came up under various names like: main relay, relay assembly,fuel relay assembly, relay- accessory power, and relay-multi purpose. The part # I got from del auto zone is: 19236. All maid by DIFf Co which is why I think they label them different. You can (or anyone slightly knowledgeable about cars/electronics can do it. The "relay box" is a small 4' w/h and is changed inside ur car, just tk the old wired out to disconnect and then reconnect the wires to new relay. Mine looks like its in the area above my fuses when I tk the fuse door ofd. Some yrs/models r in DIFf areas. I think in my other civic I had to actually remove the large plastic price covering up the inside electrical stuff under the area on driving side under starring wheel. Unless u can get back there far enuf to reach and change it. In the 6+(?) Times my Hondas hv done this, this was ALWAYS my first solution and it ALWAYS WORKED. Background info they may help..... had accords, civics, crx, everyone was 8+yrs old, prob 3 or 3 was over 10 yrs. It's nothing u did and nothin u can prevent (unless u chanel it before u hv the aymptoms) it's just a "defect" that 94% of older hondas get. If u must.... YouTube a video on changing the peice. Evn a non- mechanical female shld b able to follow the directions....as long as the teacher is good. Anyway, Goodluck and before spending loads of money.... do this first I GUARANTEE THAT AT LEAST 96% OF THIS ISSUE WILL BE CORRECTED BY FIXING THIS RELAY. Good luck, and replies on how it qrkd wld b great. Not a mechanic but know some stuff so msg me if u ever can't find ur answer elsewhere .

95 CD5 Accord, starting and stalling issues, car starts and runs fine, but when I turn my headlights on car labours, car later stalls when driving at 11k and hour or 100 or stationary in driveway. new dissy cap, rotor and coil, new ignite, new main relay, new fuel pump, new plugs and wires, still having this issue, no injector pulse when car isn't starting, exchange ecu, engine light goes off but still wont start, main thing is when the engine light is on it has issues and wont start but if engine light is off car starts and runs fine, anyone got any ideas?

I FOUND THE ANSWER. I was having the same problem with engine shutting off while driving. I talked to a mechanic and he said this was a common problem with Honda's. He had me replace the Main Relay. I was able to purchase it at Autozone for $47 and it only took two minutes to put in. Problem was solved.

I am having the same shutting down problem I have changed the fuel pump fuel pump relay the distributor,computer,fuel filter,ignition fuse car will run good you take off drive for 5 Minutes and the car shuts down like it loosed all power or like it runs out of gas any ideas

I have a 2002 Honda accord 4 cyl.y car runs and shuts off it was restarting but now it won't restart. It's not the ignition switch cause we tested the spark plug and it got spark. Any idea's??

I have a 1998 Honda Accord, for awhile my car would just randomly not start, I would drive somewhere & stop somewhere for and errand and it would turn over and not start back up, then I'd wait maybe 5-10 minutes and it would start right back up. Now not only does it do that, it cuts off when I'm driving & it doesn't matter the speed or the temperature because it shuts off regardless of how fast or slow and how hot or cold, it just shuts off. When it shuts off, I lose power steering & as soon as that starts to happen I put it in Neutral, park it for 5-10 minutes and it will start right back up like nothing happened. We have taken it to 2 mechanics & neither can tell us what is wrong. The check engine light came on while all of this has been going on so we had it checked & it is saying the Catalytic Converter needs to be replaced. I've read comments on a few other websites like this and others have written that their Hondas also shut off or didn't start randomly & once they replaced the Catalytic Converter, all the issues went away. I'm crossing my fingers that the issue will be fixed, I ordered a Walker Catalytic Converter from Amazon for about $65.00. All you have to do is put in the year, make, & model of your vehicle and they'll tell you whether or not it will fit your car. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C945PK/ref=ya_st _dp_summary It should be here in a few days and once we have installed it and tested my car, I'll submit an update to advise whether or not it fixed my car. I hope this helps someone.

Got my 1st gen honda crv-98 model, the problem is when I had a long drive then had to slow down due to traffic, I noticed the rpm gauge goes to zero and engine stops..all I do is to shift to P, aircon off and start the engine quickly and it will start again...I'm really upset with this routine and hopefully have an answer to have a smooth driving. Thanks!

If you are hearing the key in the ignition signal when the car shuts off, it is most likely the keyway has worn down, and is actually turning the car off. A dead stall, is most likely the fuel pump relay switch.

I first want to say thank you for all your answers. My wife has a 2002 Honda Accord v6 it was shutting down while she drove it at 20 or 60 mph. Then wait about 10 mins and would start again and then she drive about 5 to 6 miles and it would do the same over again. The service manager at the Honda dealer suggested we replace the ( Fuel Main Relay) I bought it at the Honda parts cost about $90.00 replaced it myself and its been running like a champ. The does not shut off anymore. That's where I would start. Hope this answer helps you all.

1996 Honda Accord shut off while driving at high speed. Coasted to shoulder of highway, turned key off, waited a moment, turned key on, car started right up and drove off. Replaced distributor with its internal coil. On those old Hondas, the igniter and coil will go bad. Problem fixed. The other alternative was ignition switch, however, you can tell if it's the ignition switch by jiggling the key while running. If jiggling doesn't turn the car off, it's likely not the switch.

Racerfirl15 was right. Problem was Main Relay. Mine had a broken solder. I re-soldered all the contact points and problem was fixed. Thank you for your post. BTW, my vehicle is a 2003 Honda Pilot EXl with 203k miles. With all the other issues that I have had with this vehicle (CEL, power steering, etc), I almost gave it up. Thanks to your post, it is working perfectly again (so far).

Just wanted to say Thank you for all the Great answers for this question. I bought my Honda Accord 20 years ago. It is an Awesome car. Gave it to my granddaughter who just turned 18 last year. I got the accord about 5 months before she was born. It has started doing the dying while going 10 to 60 miles an hour thing. I have sent her to this page and hope she can find the answers here. Thanks again for helping.

I have a 2004 Honda CRV. Last week when passing on the freeway (maybe 70mph) it suddenly lost all power. Speed dropped, gas pedal would do nothing, but it was still running. Moved into slow lane on momentum and then suddenly pedal came back to life and continued driving normally. Scared to go fast, kept it in 50 and it went fine. Thought maybe it was something in the fuel line and it seemed to go away. But today it happened again. Same thing, lost power momentarily at speed on freeway, then came back. Didn't need to touch key, didn't need to shift to neutral or anything. Is this the distributor problem mentioned or a relay or ? I assume not the key as you don't need to touch that... thanks for any input

it is a recall. take it to dealership. i was out of their recall time frame. had to pay 200 bucks, but that fixed my issue. it is an electrical problem.

Thank you. Will it matter if my car is a 2011 CRV?

This is the best information I have received yet. The dealership does not know what is causing the shut down. They changed my key to see if that will make a difference. So far it has not yesterday June 6, 2017 my car cut off twice once while idling and then when I was driving through an apartment complex. It also shut down on Monday twice while at the dealership but now while it was being monitored by their diagnostic machine. Thank you again for your help keep it coming guys.

I have a 1998 Honda accord been having the same problem for years now. I t would do it from time to time over the years and start right back up.. The last week or so it been doing it all the time. But it getting harder to start back up on the forst try.. put a new distributer in. This didn't fix it. Today It happen and I was looking at the dash and the green key kept flashing. So when I got it started and back home I messed with the keys turning it on and off. I got both keys to make sure it wasn't the one key. The flashing key means the chip is not being read and the car will turn over but not start. So I'm really thinking that it is the other part of the ignition. Ruck

dang, this happened to me two years ago... i replaced the main relay, distributor twice and a cat because it was burned up by the fuel getting thrown out while turning off... so it has been pretty good until 5 days ago... just turned off at random times... so i started off with an oil change.. LOL... then thought it was my cat that was clogged again since it felt very boggy especially going up hills... so i told the guy to check it out, and sure enough, it was all jacked up... but i didn't replace it... i put on a test pipe with the O2 adapter... so i have no catalyst right now... especially since last time i changed it, it burnt out that same week from all of them shut offs while driving... so today i changed the main relay... well, first i tried to re soldier it all, but i noticed it still turned off... so i went to buy a new one... the car actually drove smoother after i switched it... don't know if it was the cause... or maybe something burns out the main relays or something... don't know... but a while ago, my car turned off again... first it was bogging out going about 30mph... was everytime i'd hit about 3000rpm... then it bogged, back fired loud through the exhaust, then shut off... it didn't want to stay on for a while... it would crank slowly, then bog out and die... eventually, i gave it some gas, and i drove it home... i was a block away.... i really don't want to change the distributor... but what choice do i have now... i'm so tired of this car... i wiggled the key, and it doesn't turn on or anything... doesn't turn off the dash lights when i do the spring back test... i'm also broke right now... LOL... oh well... i hate that nothing comes up on the cells...

To everyone that has been a champion for my cause, a big Thank You goes out to you. My car was recently repaired, this past Thursday, my check engine light finally came on and the dealership was able to order parts. Turns out it was the ECM / PCM and thank my stars the car was still under warranty. I appreciate every person who sent me information of all possibilities which gladly shared with the dealership. My dealership though, frustrated they were hard at working trying to figure out what was wrong with my car. I thank FLOW Honda very much and all others that helped me along the way. Thank you, one grateful driver.

I've been having the issue of my car shutting off randomly while driving for about year now. I could be driving slowly, fast, or even in park and the engine will just shut off. I used to think it was because of the heat during the spring/summer because when I first got the car, this never happened and that was two winters ago. But once spring rolled around, the engine would shut off randomly. And today it got even worse, I was driving home from work and was on the highway, so cars are going 60 miles +, and I was moving onto the left lane from the right lane to take an exit and bam the engine shuts off. When it does that, the steering while kind of locks up and I have to muscle it to move it. The gas absolutely will NOT budge and stays locked up, and the same with the brakes but I'm able to pump it a little to get it to come to a complete stop. Usually what I do is move to the shoulder of the road, put the car in park, turn the key to shut the engine off then turn it back on. USUALLY it turns right back on and I can drive away, but today for some reason it just would not turn back on. I tried 6-7 times to turn the engine on, even taking the key out and trying again but it would not work. But weirdly when i left the key in the first slot/gear where the engine isn't on, after about 5-10 seconds I saw that the lights on the dash started blinking as if the engine is trying to turn back on. Its so frustrating and scary at this point. I have to get onto the highway to get to work everyday and I literally fear that the car will shut off when I'm not near a shoulder and can't pull over. My dad has brought the car to some mechanic a bunch of times; each time saying the car is fine/fixed. Yeah right. The car will drive fine a few days after taking it to him, then have the same issues again. And this all started after I saw the Maintenace Required signal pop up a few months into having the car. So maybe that's a reason? I dont know. I'm just fed up with always worrying about my car shutting down whenever I drive. Can someone please give any suggestions as to what I can do? I'm not a car person so I don't know all the details/terminology. But any info will help. Also the car is a 1999 Honda Accord, my dad bought it at an auction...

Check the following link. I had similar problems before and Honda fixed it for $200. mine was 1998 Accord. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/1998-2002-honda-accord-ignition-switch-replacement-2353017/

Hi guys I own a 1998 Honda Accord symptoms that my car gave me my car was going all of the sudden it stalled it was not responding to my pressing the gas pedal and I pulled over and it died and then I'll start it then next time it happened it died and I was not able to start up again I had to wait 10 minutes it would start up again and then it would only last on me 10 minutes and it will die again so my friend asked me told me actually it's your fuel pump I put a new fuel pump problem still happen so what I end up changing was the ECI RELAY AND EVERYTHING WAS FIXED MY CAR DID NOT DO STALL OR DIE OR ANYTHING SO WITH THIS SYMPTOMS THAT'S WHAT I NEED IS GOING TO CHANGE THE ECI RELAY

Engine dies while driving are commonly caused by two factors as I experienced: 1) bad alternator which cannot provide enough power or electricity through the entire engine's electronic components. Especially today new cars using more electronics than ever. I can name a few such as power steering, fuel injector, ignition coil, ... not count all other electrical components. 2) bad starter (loosen cable). For # 1, the symptom of bad alternator when you see all internal gauge lights or head lights are getting dimmer until the engine feels losing power and stall. For # 2, some people do not believe that bad starter or loosen cable that connects the battery to the starter will cause engine stall. I experienced twice. If you see the battery cable is corroded; especially you see it was loosen at the battery post. You should clean with wire brush to make sure it has a good connection. If it becomes heavily corrosion, then it is time to replace a new battery cable.

I have a 2001 honda accord v6.3.0l. The same thing has happend on mine . I took it now to honda dealer ship. They say after doing every possible check on this M-Fo. It's the main engine relay switch. I think the switch thing is like 50 dollars or so. If you think it's the fuel pump, it's not they say it never goes out on a honda. It's not the alternator because you can test it. Turn everything on in you car at once, the ac all the way blasting, lights, the radio, window wiper. If this does not make your cars head lights go dim , then it's not it. If the battery the problem it probably would not start , or it may die while you drive that is because the battery cable came loose. Any way guys and girls I think this is the 98% main engine relay. Because it's 01 and 204k miles so ita worn out. Sorry about my bad Grammer and good, spelling. No its not the phone IT'S ME.

I have been having a problem with my honda accord 2003 4 cyl. The check engine light will go on and It will sputter if I try to go over 2500 rpms. I have an automatic so if I just baby the acceleration its ok. If I try to get on it a little it will sputter and buck like I was learning how to drive a manual. I have been told its the Solenoid. On the VTEC engine, the camshaft has a different configuration for low rpms. When the Solenoid isn't working correctly the camshaft stays configured wrong and the car bucks. The solution to it is to change the oil, new filter and on the right side and left side there is a clean out screen that needs to be taken off and cleaned. Then all is good in Vtec world. When it happens to me I just keep it down under 2500 rpms and it works fine. I am getting a new car next month or I would fix it.

My 2000 4 cyl Accord stalled as I was entering my work parking lot and I pushed it into the parking spot. After reading this forum, went to AutoZone and picked up a new main relay. Didn't have tools but you don't actually have to mount the new part. Just unplug the connection and plug it into the new part. I'll worry about mounting it when I get home. Thanks guys!

Michael dat did buying the relay fix your problem?

I also have this similar issue with my '98 Accord V6. Engine intermittently stalls/cuts out and can't get it started until 5-10 minutes later. Replacing the ignition switch did not solve my problem. I am going to try replacing the main relay next and see if that fixes the issue. I will give an update as soon as I can whether it fixed my problem

If you jiggle the key and it turns off, it's the ignition switch. If not it's the distributor. ,I'm a Honda cert. tech, and an aircraft mechanic for over twenty years........guaranteed it's one or the other

I had a brand new 2003 Honda Accord that would shut off while driving at freeways speeds. Honda dealer had it for a week and found nothing wrong with my new car. I figured out the problem on my own. Turns out that the weight of all the keys on my key chain was slowing turning the ignition switch to the off position while I was driving on the freeway.

Our 1999 Honda CRV with 245K miles started doing this for last several months turning off while driving. Won't turn back on until car has cooled off. It was been doing what everyone has been experiencing. My friend that owns his own chop and is a mech said it was the cat so we replaced it at a $500 parts only with O2 sensors. Now it's still doing this shutoff. Now he thinks it can be the fuel pump or Dcap. I will allow him to try every fix everything he thinks it is since he doesn't charge me labor. I will report back and post my findings.

Update: It has been a couple months since replacing the main relay and I haven't had any issues. I've gone on several decent length trips and put on few thousand miles without the engine stalling once. So it was definitely my main relay and not the ignition switch. Jiggling the keys did not cause my engine to cut out, but I had let the dealership talk me into trying the switch first. I don't know if jiggling the keys is a conclusive test or not, but if you can't reproduce the problem that way, it may be better to start with the main relay instead (they both costed about the same to replace for me)

I have a 1992 honda accord that stalls when the car i believe warms up or its getting hot idk but anyways it starts back up after sitting for 30mins or so and I have changed the fuel pump ,fuel filter, main relay,distributor, coil, and it still stalls!! Help me out people what could it be?

The next time your car shuts off and won't start, this simple test can help you immensly. With the car completely off, put the key into the ignition and turn it two clicks. All the dash lights will come on, including your check engine light. After 3 seconds the check engine light should turn off. Your main relay is what shuts the check engine light off after this 3-second delay. In fact, you can hear the main relay click as it shuts off your check engine light. So if the check engine light remains on it means that you bought a defective main relay. The first main relay I bought for my 91 Honda lasted only 2 years. This means that many of them probably only last a year, if that. It's likely that someone at the auto parts store dropped the thing on to the floor and rattled a connection loose. There's no guarantee that the thing will work at all. But they come with a lifetime guarantee so take it back and get another one if the check engine light doesn't shut off after 3 seconds and you don't hear a click.

I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey and it dies randomly going down the road. I still have steering and breaks but the engine turns off. I was going about 40 this morning when it turned off the first time. It's done it twice since. The weird thing is that it cranks and runs fine immediately after dying.

I'm grateful that this thread is still open. It was immensely useful while I tried to find a fix for my 1998 Honda Accord LX. Like others, my car was stalling while driving. This happened for the first time in the late fall during cool weather instead of hot summer weather. Since then, there was sudden loss of power at random times regardless of speed. The power steering seemed to die simultaneously. After waiting 10-20 minutes the car would most often start again and run for a few miles before repeating the problem. I thought my alternator was ok because my battery always held charge--headlights strong, starter cranks well when I try to restart. I had just replaced the distributor while doing a full tune up so knew it wasn't that. Jiggling the car keys while engine was running didn't shut off the engine so it probably wasn't the ignition switch. I suspected the fuel pump/filter, MAP sensor or other electrical issue but came across this thread and thought to look at the main relay first. When I pulled the main relay assembly out, several of the solder welds on the bottom of the board looked shot. Several people posted youtube vids on what defects to look for on the welds and how they soldered them to fix the problem. The new relay assembly cost $51 at AutoZone so it wasn't going to kill me to buy a new one but I thought to try soldering it myself because if it didn't work it wasn't going to cost me too much extra. I bought a 30W soldering iron and some rosin core solder at Harbor Freight for about $6 total. If I had screwed up, I would have bought a new relay assembly and tossed the old one. Turned out to be much easier than I thought and it completely fixed the problem. To access the main relay, all it took was removing 4 screws next to the fuse panel near the hinge of the driver side door. This will allow you to remove the panel under the steering column, then unplug the main relay (it's the only dull reddish/tan colored one just left of the steering column) and use a thin flat head screwdriver to unlock the 2 tabs holding it in its little black case. You don't need to pull anything out other than the main relay. Leave everything else in place including the little black case that houses the main relay. It took <20 min to do the whole fix. BTW, if this didn't work I was going to try cleaning the MAP sensor next. Since I had already bought the can of mass airflow cleaner spray, I removed the MAP sensor and cleaned it anyway. That 10 min procedure smoothed out the car's rough idle quite a bit. Wow, these 2 easy fixes saved me a ton of $ at the mechanic's. Thanks to everyone who took the time to add to the collective knowledge.

I have changed the relay(really not hard-generally speaking) but for some reason, it won't start, in addition to that, my dashboard did not light up. After checking the battery, cables,fuses whatever I thought might be a problem(I'm not a mechanic by any means) the situation was the same. Took off the new relay and made sure all wires are are plugged in then put it back. After doing this a few times it started. Once I stopped the engine and tried to turn it on I did not work again. I suspect that the contact that goes into the relay is the problem, anyone have any thoughts? What can it be and how can it be fixed? I'm afraid that I need to visit the mechanic shop...which it's not good news...

if you have a Honda check and test your ignition coil.

all the problem with the car losing the power is with the fuel pump and the injectors, i had same problem and my car would wobble terrible becasue two injectors wasnt functioning after checking the power to injector i realised there was no power itself and when i got the power cable fixed it works beautiful as before even i checked on the pump there was a lot of dust on it so i got it serviced

In last three days I have replaced the EGR valve and Fuel pump and filter. Today it cut off on me again but it will start right back up. Any suggestions

Same thing just happened to me it just lost power no gas when I pumped the pedal then died and wouldnt start. I pushed it to the side of the road and waited 5- 10 mins and it started and I made it home fine. It started back up every time after I turned it off and on a few times. Checked coolant that is fine checked oil could use a quart and under the hood does feel warmer than should be but Im in Tulsa in high heat and humidity. I dont know what to do Im actually from Ohio a thousand miles away so no friends or family here.

It turned out to be the ignition switch for me.

https://youtu.be/CBP-4XJ3DUg this video troubleshoots the 4 most common reasons for that happening.