2005 Kia Serento

Ok I'm up dating this since I got another fuse block to no avail: Ok just got this thing a few weeks ago. It has around 177K on the odometer. The power windows not only do not work, but no power to the fuses either. So I pulled drivers door panel to start. Key to "On" position nothing, engine running nothing and this is checking with a test light and a dvom @ the fuse block. So checking the fuse block had no power to the fuses and no continuity from relay terminals to fuse terminals. Tried swapping all other relays nothing changed. Got another fuse block thinking something may have gone south inside the box. Now with relay out the relay terminal to the inside of the fuse block, the little tab moved over with test light probe and it clicks the fog lights and t/s relay. Still no power to fuses. When putting red lead of dvom set to 20V into forward fuse terminal the the black lead of the dvom @ + battery post it shows voltage. Also the terminal that tics the other relays shows about 1 volt lower than the other 2 terminals showing voltage. All the windows are in the closed position. From what I understand this thing sat for awhile in a bit of taken apart from changing timing belt and stuff in there. It starts and runs fine, except for a pulley screaming at first. I was told the computer has been changed also. The fog lights don't work either. Another fun thing trying to figure when you hit the horn the tail lights come on. If anyone may have some idea of what might be what I would appreciate it. Also checked the ground wire @ drivers master switch and good continuity, but nothing else. Another question the 2 wires that bolt to the front of the fuse supplying power. The one to the engine side is hot the other on the fender side is not until it is put on the little stud. Should that wire be hot on it's own? So please if anyone has an idea of what may be stopping power to get from relay to the fuses I would appreciate it. And yep even went down and bought 3 new relays just in case. Nothing makes any change.

Welp no answers or help yet. Ok jumpered the fuse slots and got the windows working. After taking out the majority of the dash and tracing which wire goes where on the fuse block for what I now have power to both the fuses for the damn power windows. Then I'm going to have check for the power getting back to the switches, think I'm already there. When connecting the negative battery terminal still hear things like they are trying to turn on. Yes the terminal sparks and yes there is 12.78 volts between the negative battery cable and the negative battery terminal. If anyone wants to know I can fill ya in on what I found. But let me ask this if someone can answer. I now have full battery voltage to both the fuses and the green wire to the ETAC is not giving me fits now. Is it possible the master switch went out and with that it can cause all 3 of the other switches not to work?