I just replaced my power steering pump....

Sounds like it wasn't bled properly, try running the engine while steering back and forth until you hit the stop on each side of the steering play with the cap off. See if that solves it.

If the steering wheel wa sturned with the ignition off their will be air in the system.If you have a vacuum pump and an attachment big enough to go into the reservoir have the engine running and continue to apply vacuum to the system after a few times this should resolve your problem.

you may have trash in the system and need to replace the filter which is usually made into the pressure line, if lucky you can replace with a filter with clamps but only if it is that type, you will probably have to replace that line which means bleeding it afterwards as the first answer tells only the Haynes book says not to go till it stops when turning the steering wheel

AND THE FLUID ALL LEAKS OUT OVER NIGHT

I had this problem as well, turns out the oil cooler for the power steering had colapsed in side the tube and plugged up the line, if there is a blockage the pump will compress the fluid with air and when you shut off the car the fluid backs up when pump stops compressing it, air lock will do similar thing

Help I am having this exact same problem! I have replaced the pump and the high pressure line and I've done every method you can think of and I still cannot get it to spew out oil fluid from the reservoir. I have done it well the car is off move the steering lock back-to- back 10 20 or 30 times to get the bubbles out and still not has helped. I have run the car wow it was lifted, and move the steering lock to lock a few dozen times, and still the same thing spewing out of the reservoir. I have devised a homemade way to bleed the system by putting 15-20 lb of pressure on the system and it still has not helped I am running out of options and patience right now and I cannot keep throwing money at this car The weird thing is I want to do the timing chain water pump took the pump off and the system was working fine before and when I put the pump back on this is where the problems happened. Can somebody please help I'm getting desperate!

When you have fluid spewing out of your pump after you shut off car: You have replaced pump, Replaced high pressure line, And your sure there are no air locks, Check fluid cooler mounted in front of rad at bottom, This tube is the fluid cooler, it very commonly fails, by collapsing inside the tube restricting and some times stopping the flow of fluid, this will cause too much positive pressure compressing the fluid until car is off , then it backs up threw the high pressure side cause there is no positive pressure being created, and speews all over, Some times a simple bow or bend in the cooler can alow it to fail, some times the cooler looks fine but still failed Worth checking, could have saved a pump or hpline

Thanks I WILL recheck that lower return line in more detail. I know that I unhooked it when I Was just doing a timing chain cover and oil pan gasket changed and all I did was unhook the hose to the reservoir and out of the way. I undid the power steering cooling bar, to drain the system from below - thinking it was the transmission cooler line (which I was about to install an auxiliary tranny line cooler where the PW steering line, and then figured out THAT wasn't the line I was looking for, unlike the older model of tauruses I worked on - which I put an in line cooler on the older model of taurus I had, I quickly realized that it was NOT the tranny cooler line I thought it was and I put it back. *I wondering if by tugging and moving that thing around if I somehow pinched and or clogged that return line which might explain why I'm overpressurizing and bubbling up the fluid and when I turn off the car because the flow got restricted enough to create enough backpressure and shoot it back through the high pressure side??. hmmm. Do you know where I should look for on the lower pressure side? is there a filter along that line I need to check? ALSO, I replaced the high pressure side because somewhere I read that that football looking cannister that sits on front of the motor on the steel line was infact a filter? if that's true or not, I then assumed it was probably getting clogged and it's 19 years old - maybe that went bad. now I know it has nothing to do with this problem. I've done every conceivable attempt to bleed the air out of the system and I know now that I would have bled it by now by how many hours I've spent/wasted trying to solve this problem and going through atleast a quart of fluid having gushed out and sprayed ALL over my from end of the engine bay that I just so diligently cleaned up from the last job I did on this car... UGH! okay I'm off to check those things. THANKS for your help and the light-speed response. I Wasn't expecting anyone to respond in days or weeks!!

Upon checking power steering cooler-bar under/in front of the AC condensor - it's just a 3-foot piece of steel tubing at's about a 3/8ths or half inch diameter - are you saying that this bar fails? you mentioned that it "collapses" - how so? is it not hollow inside? I don't see how a bar could fail. I will take it off and completely and see if I can see day light inside there otherwise. What are the odds that the low-pressure return side has issues? I thought you were mentionings that that line might fail between the rubber hosing meeting the steel line portions of it? So I disconnected the lower hose to the cooler bar, attached a tube to it and ran it into a half bottle full of steering/merc-V fluid, and I cranked the motor for 10 secs at a time, in a series of a few interviews - to see what the flow is like, to see if there's excess air built up as an attempted to get ALL the air out of the system that way - while continuously topping off the reservoir. I got it to the point where it stopped bubbling air from hose inside the bottle. I then reconnected the hose back to the pw steering tube cooler bar, and ran the care. The pump reacted and continued to make noise, and it quited down a bit as I moved the steering side to side as I had it running and I left it running for a few minutes, and the level went all the way down to the bottom - where you see the aerating fluid stream circulating, so I topped a little bit in their to bring the level up, continued moving the steering side to side, and noise continued to get a little quieter in the following minutes as the steering began to feel more normal - but the fluid was getting frothy then. I then shut off the engine, and as predicted the level came rising up quicker and bubbled over loosing a couple more ounces. it's been doing this repeatedly no matter how much I tried to bleed, run, steer side to side while engine off or on, and no matter what, the fluid keeps bubbling over. This is the 3rd pump replacement pump and I can't understand how this is doing this. Another possibility - do you think air is getting into the system of the PW steering rack? that's the only thing I have left, other than aimlessly replacing the return line. I see no drips in the system surprisingly. I'm running out of options here but other than to replace the entire rack which I absolutely do NOT want to do as that's a big job and a hard angle to get under there without doing it on a lift. there's some huge pounds of torque at a funny angle to remove it. I'll also say that when the car is off, when I turn the wheel side to side, turning it right make the fluid level go up slightly while bubbling. but turning left makes it go down slightly while also bubbling. that is another symptom right there.

Yes inside that tube is a little tiny rad believe it or not there is aluminum tins in there that help cool the fluid now unfortunately sometimes those fins collapse once those fins collapsed inside that tube the tube becomes plucked this will create back pressure which will cause your fluid to build up compress and backflow when you turn the pump off

Perhaps if you can see light threw the tube? Then the in side has travelled in to the rubber hose, the frothing is the pump mixing air in to the last of the fluid in the pump, as there is no more fluid to feed forward , (I think that’s what happens) but why are you running out of fluid if there is positive pressure? Most likely something slowing down the flow, could be a air lock at the rack, but if you look up how the system works (I did) you will see that it is highly likely not , you return flow should be high enough pressure to rapidly fill the pump back up, that being said it shoot across the garage 10’ or more in a steely stream, don’t try this it is messy, get some rubber hose and start chasing the return system back section by section with the hose as a bypass, I am still convinced your system is not plugged but slowed down enough to cause issues, and for the record I could very well be wrong, but sounds like the same issue I was having, and I stumbled across it by doing a simalar method, but I was vacuumed testing each section looking for air leaks, I was getting flow threw cooler so at first I ruled it out but came back to it as I trouble shot the whole system, I replaced every hose high and low side as well as pump and kept coming back to the cooler, witch looked fine and straight, so I by passed the cooler with stainless tube, and had a few litres of fluid in jug, and kept the pump full while running the motor till it was fully circulating, NOTE: do not let the pump get low on fluid as this is when bubbles are introduced. Once system is circulating and pump stays full on its own, you can shut off motor, NOTE: you will more than likely get some over flow when you shut off motor, you should have to take some fluid back out as over filling it helped bleed the system better, and you probably have a mess already any way, lol you can use the wife’s Turkybaister to take out what you need if you don’t have transfer pump, then put cap back on and run motor again, check level after 100-150 km- 65-110 miles,

https://www.getoemparts.com/oem-parts/ford-power-steering-cooler- 3f1z3d746aa?origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw3- bzBRBhEiwAgnnLCmR8Ugno7zMUhRIxHxAaiv8g3Xqq5W26B1u0hxKAS6dTnGj Sflk2nxoCPKwQAvD_BwE This is the style cooler on my mercury sable wagon for the 2001 model. It appears to be just a simple bar with no external cooling fins on the outside of it. I've seen the other models that had a better design that hard cooling fins on the outside. So you're saying inside this has tiny little cooling fins that can get obstructed? I'd be impressed if this is so. I'm going to pull it off and inspect and see if I can see through it. Although when I unhooked the other side torwards the return line, not very much fluid ran out of that pipe - as fast as I would have expected it to, as it slow trickled out - which leave me wondering if you are right - there may be an obstruction? I would expect a faster stream of fluid come running out as that tube connects directly to the PW reservoir via a 2 ft hose.. I'll report back when I find out. Thanks for you help!!

As I stated earlier the cooling fins are inside the round tube!, look try to by pass it with a hose or piece of tube, then fill everything up like I said so you don’t get any bubbles, if I’m wrong then you can call me an idiot or what ever you want! But going back and forth is not fixing the problem YOU can’t find the soulution for if it dose work, you can zip tie the hose or tube to exsisting cooler till you get a new one, I am just trying to help you find a soulution, like I also said before “I could be wrong” But for the time that has already been waisted, isn’t anything worth a try that doesn’t require buying new parts first? Or paying mechanic to find it for you? He will do the same thing.... any way let me know either way when you find the soulution

I replaced the P/S cooler my new pump overflowed.

I have a 2005 Ford Taurus fitted with the Flex Fuel engine. The original fuel pump presumably failed and began spewing its power steering fluid. I replaced it with a new pump. This was a very difficult process and I wish I had just instead obtained an old pump from a used Taurus, still in its "cradle." I wound up just breaking the old pump wheel-pulley to remove the old pump. But that is besides the point. I took off my fluid cooler after reading this thread of posts. It required me to unscrew 2 small bolts. I took off the plastic guard underneath the car first. Those 2 bolts may have been smaller than 8 mm but I used a very small 8 mm socket on a very small ratchet wrench and it worked. I used a vice-grip wrench to undo the hose clamps on the opposite ends of the fluid cooler pipe. I used a ziploc bag to catch the power steering fluid that came out. The cooler pipe indeed had a metal fin sticking out into the middle of the inside of the pipe. I was surprised however that it did not seem to block even half of the passage way through. Nevertheless, I eventually used a small file that was mostly cylindrical, but smaller at the tip than the end close to the handle and twisted it in until it pushed or mashed the metal fin out of the way and gave a clear path. I had to used a C-clamp on the handle of the file to grip it hard enough for twisting power. I was thinking the fin might come out but I couldn't get it. I put the fluid cooler pipe back on, under the radiator. I added Mercon V style fluid to the pump tank and waited for bubbles to come up. I put my key in the ignition, turning the key but not enough to start the Taurus. I moved the wheel, left and right. Actually, I did start the car once before this step and the Mercon fluid went way down. I did not have the lid on, which was on purpose but your not supposed to turn on the car yet until the last stage if I remember correctly. I repeated the process of turning the steering wheel left and right and this got the air bubbles out of the hoses. I, of course had to add more Mercon. I put the Taurus in neutral each time and let the car roll a few feet (I doubt even 6) to help turn the wheel. I read the instructions on raising the Taurus, with jacks, then turning the steering wheel right and left. That is the best way to do it. I waited some time as well to make sure the fluid in the steering system had settled. I test drove the vehicle and my power steering worked swell. Anyway, I wrote all of that to say, in my case, fixing the fluid cooler pipe worked. I also learned how to get the air out of the power steering hoses reading through everybody's posts. I appreciate the discussion. Thanks Steve for your suggestion. It has merit. NOTE: I write this the very day I completed the repairs.

Regarding my 2005 Ford Taurus, I intended to indicate its mileage is a little over 150,000 miles. Many of those miles were rough on the vehicle.