what makes hydraulic radiator fan come on

There are electric fans, electronic cooling fans and auxillary fans. There are multi speed fans and fans that work in stages. There is no "hydraulic fan " Hydraulic means using fluid dynamics to perform work. With that, you may have a fan group and fan speed controller. You could also have a computer controlled fan that can be tested for a trouble code. A powertrain control module can control the cooling operation and speeds as well as a separate specific fan speed controller. Ford has always been likely to give the technician access at the radiator support. Or provide self test connector under the hood. Newer vehicles have an OBDII connector below the dash. They also have self test for a BCM or body control module. You can add a couple jumper wires to the fan connector and power the fan, and drive straight to the ford service drive for quick advice and help. This could assist in cooling if you were in stop and go traffic. You would unplug the A/C compressor clutch. They will test your system and recommend your needs. Doing this yourself means understanding volumes. You could have a temp sender, a switch, a relay, or fuse. A ground connection, or module issue. even a fan speed resistor. If you read wiring schematics it can simplify the basic circuits for you. You would want to disassemble and inspect the parts in the system. Finding them can be a chore even for the experienced tech. If you have power and ground and a good connector supplied to your new part ? it should run. I recommend running it yourself and getting to the help they provide to save the hours and days of familiarization time.

This lincoln is like the jaquar, it has a hydraulic fan motor with a reservoir that uses ATF fluid.

Think of it as putting a propeller on a small jet to fly to safety.

Then reading the Lincoln service manual and the EVTM can help you make a diagnostic plan after reading how the system works and system prechecks. you may solve your concern right then. This is common to what? two types of vehicles? I would even bet that ANY concern Ford experienced so far is outlined in TSB form, and they already have your plan made for you. Even a call to your service advisor could get your parts or procedure set out for you to purchase or pick up. When I spent my years at Ford, the experimental things that broke all the time were always on the town car and mark series before they eventually were used on our crown series. The TSB search can be done either by Ford or Lincoln dealers in that case. Is it cooling the radiator ? and electronically controlled? You dont mean the fluid power drives it from the power steering or trans do you ? You would add a pump and lines. That just seems expensive and backward as well as heavy. It must be , what, lubricated that way ? What does the actual service manual say about theory of operation ? This thing is run by hydraulic fluid power under pressure ? I doubt it, seriously, but hey, that's how you fill up a wrecking yard in america and contaminate the earth, right ?

It's hydraulic http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-RF226-Radiator-Fan-Motor/dp/B000V50EJG#productDetails Take a close look at the "motor" assembly.

Explaination on how it works, don't know if it's exactly true.... http://answers.edmunds.com/question-Why-won-hydraulic-motor-cooling-fan-click-Lincoln-LS-137363.aspx

Perhaps calling it a lubricated electronic cooling fan is correct. This , then begs the question.. why was your part a failed part ? what test did it fail? and in purchasing it? did you already have to use a dealer item ? or was it available in the aftermarket.

I viewed that. it is like EVO steering. (electronic variable orifice) They are using a control module driver to operate a solenoid which affects the flow of hydraulic fluid in that drawing. That's more like "electrohydraulic" and yes, they are using power steering pressure and added lines and a cooler. And it is all for running a "hydraulically driven motor" That has to be the opposite of running a slipper pump. The fluid power would have to turn the shaft from the turning of the pump rotor from the outside to the inside. Experiment in electronically controlled fluid dynamics. That will cost a fortune and be scrapped. You will see people trying to retrofit the variable speed cooling fans like the continental used is my personal bet. But the TSB that answers what you want ? and since it is an experiment, They have to chase it down like always, get your manufacturer sponsored warranty coverage extended and read their engineering for their experiment and stay in the game till you change it back into something from planet earth is the smart money.

So, i must now ask, if your original concern was hot running engine, Are the cooling system prechecks helping? Fluid level and burped? thermostat opens at 192, opens fully and coolant circulates, No combustion gases coming out when the cap is removed and the tester for this is held over the radiator fill up ? The coolant actually has a temp reading higher than 198 and measured it with a coffee thermometer or the right tool ? You said you did not hear it rising in speed at the fan anymore. If the fan had a concern getting fluid sent to it, and the power steering was ok, then the evo valve or solenoid would be in question. If it did not set a troublecode, and the driver in the powertrain control module was successful, then the EVO solenoid, (or fan motor control solenoid valve) would have to not be opening to send the fluid there. Or you have some trouble code... right ?

Your control module would need an accurate temp sensor reading before the signal would be sent to open the solenoid valve. The sensor's resistance reading compared to the chart in the book can give a clue to what the voltage changes to from reference to sensor signal. These pinpoint test readings are the likely ones required to be sure the system can operate. in the event the electrohydraulic valve was ok but just not receiving the command to actuate. So, back to the top of the page. The scan tool at the dealer can read live data, and the tech can pick out what readings are out of range, or monitor them in actual time and find any signal noise. I believe it can be that simple if the code is not setting and there was no TSB already.

In the event it fails like they did historically with these type of systems, There is a chance of an improved valve actuator available. You would consult service before parts. as is the way their info is divided. Get any updated part number from the TSB has always been the path to correction.

After a reread and seeing the links you provided (thanks ytlas and co.) The actuator has power and the ground provided by the powertrain control module has to be the way the system gets the electrohydraulic valve or solenoid to provide fluid under pressure. Many pinpoint tests can be required to find why it does not do so. Seek info from dealer about the likely part update and procedure and location information streamlined information they likely provide. If you had the test equipment required , you can read live data and find causes for there being a problem but no code has been reported.

Your actuator has a build up of dirt/ grime in it. I would suggest taking out the actuator and cleaning it to the bare metal with little to no residue. This build up of grime is stopping the actuator from opening and letting very little fluid through the actuator which is restricting flow. hope this helped!

Best bet, remove all the hydraulic fan system and install electric.I'm in the process of that now. you can change the actuator in the pump for $200,or like the ans above, clean it,may,or may not, fix the problem.

Danny stop posting when you have no clue what you are talking about. You obviously have zero knowledge here. In answer to the OP there is an actuator that allows fluid to flow to the fan assy. It is a simple two post connector and with a basic DVOM you can test for signal at the actuator and with jumper/test leads check the operation of the actuator. Its on the passenger side under the resivior

ANY SUGGESTIONS::::::::: I also have heat problem ,I put 12 volts across the 2 terminals on actuator after I removed it,the pin which controls the flow did not seem to have the magnetic field on the pin (plunger).plan to do continuity check on the actuator windings to see if they are open? I do know the valve body on the fan is working, it pushes fluid out the return hose to resivor(hose disconnected).Question where exactly does the volts come from,PCM or elsewhere? I just want to make sure the actuator is the problem before it purchase one. What other test can be done to diagnosis the heating problem?

90% of the time is the actuator. Unplug and check for power with key on. If there is power at plug check resistance with dvom if it's open actuator coil is defective. If there is resistance than it could be hydraulic problem if there is no code received during self test

Yes it is a hydraulic driven cooling fan driven by atf. It is 2 speeds low and high(very loud sounds like a jet when it comes on High) yes it is the high speed fan actuator that is the culprit. These cars have one problem. The cooling system. When it works good it works great and the lsv8 feels powerful, stable and nimble due to it's near perfect 50 50 weight distribution and 4 wheel independent suspension. Rear wheel drive v8 watch out for lateral oversteer (turning left then right or opposite) the rear end can kick out if your on the gas too hard or if you know how to drive you can turn off traction control and drift corners. I know she's big but thanks to aluminum body panels ,motor , suspension puts the ls around 4200lbs

Damny, Not only have you not serviced one lincoln but you do not know anything about them. Please stop giving advice.. people like you piss me off and they always act like they're more educated than they are.

I have an issue on my 01 Lincoln where I cannot get the pcm to even command the high fan mode On when the motor reaches 223 and above... any suggestions?