Factory alarm

The battery is a couple years old but like I said it has been in the transmission shop since August so the battery was dead. They charged it before I came and got it. They did not check anything. They were only doing the transmission and said that these issues were because I have no factory keypad and need a new battery. So on lunch I am going to go get a new battery as I would like to drive the car sooner then later. I will keep you posted.

I don't think you have a factory alarm. You probably have an aftermarket system that needs to be reset. Unfortunately, Dealerships have these crappy alarms installed by $8 an hour kids that make a big mess out of your wiring. Factory alarms disable the fuel pump and will not allow the car to be driven when they go off.

I double checked - your vehicle has a PATS system. Passive Anti Theft System. No noise, no lights - just shuts off the fuel system and flashes a light on the dash when the wrong key or no key is used. Does not have to be reset. Your Aftermarket alarm is your problem.

I put in the new battery yesterday and that was not the cure for the problem. As I am a girl and obviously not a mechanic I took it to the mazda dealership this morning I just took out my Hazards fuse so it was not flashing while I am driving. Hmmm.. It very well could be a aftermarket alarm I never thought about that. All I know is that I lost the keypad years ago and never had a issue with it really until now. I know that having no door locks working unless the car is started and there is no radio no dome light and the second I put the key in and start the car the lights and hazards flash but the door locks work? Very confusing. I am almost 100% positive that I have a door sensor out to which will sometimes trigger the alarm on and off during the night. The flashing the lights and hazards does eventually stop for awhile when driving but shorty resumes itself once the faulty door sensor sets it back off. My friend did tell me that if it was a factory alarm that I should be lucky that I can drive it since it usually does disable the ignition. One more thing I have noticed that once I start the car the RPM and the speedometer go all the way to the max then back down like it would if I had just replaced the battery or unconnected the battery terminals. Once I shut the car off my trip meter resets itself also. I am praying that I get a answer to all of this today and it isnt a whole lot of more money. It seems that once I get one thing replaced it is just another thing. Honestly I should have walked away before the 2800 transmission I just had replaced. But now I feel like since I am this deep may as well get everything fixed and drive the wheels off of it right? Any other suggestions on these things? I bought one of the Chilton books thinking I was somehow going to fix it myself but wow that stuff doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. It seems like when they go and combine the escape and tribute that just makes it more complicated :) Thanks guys for the reply s I have never done this online questions thing and I think that it is great that you guys took the time out of your day to try and help me out! Cheers!

Well, there was a couple fuses out under hood and a couple in the wrong spots. Hmm... Interesting how something so simple could mess everything up! Everything works fine now..

Did you find the problem? Because my mazda tribute is doing same thing rite now.

Ok, fuses,