What would cause the brake and battery dummy lights to come on as your car loses power and dies?

Ok, got it about the brake fluid and think it is low, so will refill but I don't know what a CEL is.

After replacing the alternator, did you check for 14+ volts while running at the battery? With the engine running, using a voltmeter, place the red probe on the + side of battery, black probe on - side. Turn voltmeter to DC voltage and see what it reads. It should be 14 or more volts with engine running. Assuming the alternator is new and good, look in the owners manual for a fuse box diagram. Is there any fuse labeled ALT? If so, check it, it might be bad and never needed an alternator to begin with. Also, the wiring from the alternator to the battery may be bad, preventing the battery from charging.

Thank you so much for the useful information. I'm having the guy that replaced my alternator check out my car this weekend and will pass this on. Thanks again!

I dont have an answer. But i was having the same problem and i just checked the ALT fues and that was the problem... after changing the alternator and battery it was a fues... thanks for this info thou

I started my car look down my battery and brake light was on what could cause that.

I put a valve gasket cover set on my 2002 Nissan Maxima then the next morning my break and battery light came on now my whole car is dead I had to unlock the door with my key but the car has no power what could be wrong??

My Nissan maxima went die on i could not drive it all it was doing is going back than i charge it and it went die again

It may be the positive battery terminal. They're notorious for going bad or being faulty.

Just sharing an experience... 2005 Nissan Altima.. Day after completing brake job for friend which consisted of pads and 1 leaking caliper on the passenger rear. I get a call that the Brake and Battery light is on??? No check engine light. Brakes should not cause a battery light and I was only under the hood to check and top off brake fluid. Did notice a unusual whirring noise when the car was running, but since my friend had no other complaints I did not look into it further. Anyway... Told them that the Battery light is typical of a failed alternator or other problem in the charging system. The Brake light may have been caused by the charging problem or I might have missed something when doing the brakes. Maybe I did not get the Banjo bolt tight enough to seal the crush washers on the replaced brake caliper? Maybe there was still an air bubble in the system that we did not get out when bleeding the brakes? Maybe the parking brake was pulled just enough to activate the switch? 2nd day friend went to drive vehicle to work and it would not accelerate. My best guess is it went into limp mode caused by the low voltage that triggered the Brake light. Told them to put a battery charger on the battery or pull it and bring it into the house to keep it from freezing. Batteries become ice cubes when they get low on charge. The ice expands destroying the plates and even cracking open the battery case. When thawed you end up with shorted cells (reducing voltage level) and battery acid leaking. Loaded up my vehicle with almost all the tools needed and drove over 2 hours to their location to trouble shoot. 1st check the battery with my multi-meter, Was under 12 volts DC out of the car warmed up in the house (looks like the alternator). Placed battery on quick charge with my battery charger. 2nd While the battery was charging checked the Brake fluid reservoir (still full). Ok... no major brake fluid leaks. 3rd Check rear brake caliper for leaks. Loosened lugs, jacked car and removed rear tire. Caliper had just a slight amount of brake fluid around Banjo bolt. Most likely left over from when I installed it. Still found a longer wrench and gave the bolt another tug to make sure it was good and tight. Bled this caliper again to make sure no air bubbles came out. Got maybe a barely noticeable bubble (was it a bubble) out then nothing but fluid. Did this 3 or 4 more times with nothing but fluid. Brake pads were breaking in nicely. Put this all back together and rechecked Brake fluid reservoir (still almost full). 4th Back into house to check battery charge. 12.5 VDC (close enough). Put battery back in car and connected up. Checked voltage (12.38). Started car and watched as voltage began to drop. Checked voltage at alternator connection. Same as battery and dropping. At just above 12VDC we shut off the engine. Checked Battery and Alternator connections all good. No corrosion or broke connections. Took the multi-meter out to their other car (another newer Nissan Altima) and repeated test. Over 13 VDC at battery (engine off) over 14 VDC (engine on). This is what we should be seeing. 5th Replace alternator. Noticed during removal that the Radiator overflow hose was off of the radiator. The factory spring clamp had rusted away to almost nothing. Radiator over flow was now possibly leaking out onto alternator. Coolant level was still good in radiator. Maybe we bumped it loose? To get the alternator's bottom long bolt out in order to remove the alternator, we had to remove the coolant overflow tank and pull the engine fuse/relay block off and away from its metal mount. We then removed the mounting bracket. Curse you Tojo... This did make things considerably easier to reach. 6th install new alternator and other pieces parts. We cleaned dirty, rusty threads on bolts and applied a little wheel bearing grease to help keep them from rusting up again. Installed a new hose clamp on radiator overflow hose. Started and tested voltage (14.4 VDC) Double checked that everything was right, picked up tools, cleaned up and went for a test drive. Battery, Brake Lights out and no Check engine light. Owners Happy I drive back home over 2 hours and take well deserved nap. :)

Wow awesome job. I applaud you

Brake light on and check engine light what could be wrong??

I have a new alternator and a new battery every time I put the car in drive and press the gas it shuts off the mechanic said the get a red or yellow top battery is that true