2000 Nissan Quest 3.3 chugging/stalling while driving.

Check air filter and clean throttle body replace fuel filter if have not done so in a while add fuel injector cleaner to gas tank and use the middle grade or high test gas to help clean out the gum and carbon build up.

Just did complete tune up w all above mentioned including timing belt and water pump. Drove to N Carolina fine but on the way back is when it began acting up. Now it won't rev past 2000rmo so not driveable at all. :-(

Is the check engine light on ?

It is now. Wasn't til it began limiting Rpms. Never came on while returning from n,c. Distributor replaced last year. Exhaust crossover replaced twice and needing another. Sounds like a john Deere. O/d light not flashing w k/o/e/o., fail safe not suspected. But I'm no pro. Can't afford trial n error part replacement. Need serious advice. Thanx.

If check engine light is on just have the code or codes read with a scanner and it will tell you exactly what the problem is. Most part stores will read the code or codes for you at no charge.

Vehicle not drive able as stated above. Therefore, cannot read codes. This issue was apparent before pcm notified.

The scanner is a portable hand held scanner . I know stores like auto zone have a loan a tool program but do not know if that applies to the scanners also. If so they require a deposit that you will get back once the tool is returned.

Problem still exists.

Update: there is no light on, o2 sensor replaced, aid valve cleaned etc. Plenty of power. Bucks slightly at cruising speeds. Idles good one minute then revs and drops to a sputter and stalls. When cold I have to hold gas slightly or it just stalls every time I start it,

Bump, problem still exists.

Hi check the coils thats happen with my

Now the vehicle will not rev at all. Can barely move it around the yard. This has been going on 6 months and I'm at my wits end already!!

Check to see if your vehicle has this ( ETCS ) Electronic Throttle Control System fuse.Check in the owners manual. If no owners manual go on line and type in owners manual for the year , make and model of your vehicle.

No, its a throttle cable.

The best thing to do is get the code read I no you say the light is not on anymore but it stores the last code in its memory that will save you a lot of headache about what is going on with your vehicle. But just to take a guess taken in consideration all the other things you have done already the fuel pump maybe going bad. Have a fuel pressure test done.

Was it doing any of what you are saying its doing now before changing the timing belt or did it start happening after ?

After re reading your question recheck the timing belt the tensioner may have come loose and belt may have jumped a few teeth causing your problem.

Timing is good. I believe this to be a coil or sensor issue. I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow to get a distributor and a mass airflow sensor. The mass airflow sensor that I put on it, is an aftermarket. But that's how it acts when you try to give it gas.

Like I mentioned earlier you need to get the code or codes read even if the check engine light is off that code is still stored in the memory will save you a whole lot of guessing on what's wrong with your vehicle.

I did, I bought a scan tool and scanned it I got nothing out of it. Just wasted $79 on a scan tool. :-(

Strange that you did not get any codes and the light was on at one time but look at the bright side it is not money wasted now you can charge $20- $30 to scan someone's else's vehicle that needs to get the codes read.

The throttle will redline eventually if you hold it steady and slowly, otherwise if you open it wide it will just die. It starts on the first lick every time though. This is why I'm thinking mass air flow sensor. Because if you open the throttle it takes a second or two before it actually Revs. throttle position sensor has already been replaced too. This is really getting old not to mention we need this vehicle..

The vehicle hasn't been started in a month up until today so the battery was dead that's why there were no codes. The check engine light is not on anymore.

When I posted this in August, the vehicle was at least drivable then. But now it is not I can barely get it into the carport.

The MAF sensor was replaced as well but with an aftermarket new one from online. Not a factory dealership item. I've read that that could be a problem as well. Anybody have experience with this?

Problem solved! Turns out it was the brand new mass air flow sensor that I put on was bad; I got one from a junkyard runs like a top now. but we still have the bucking issue at cruising speed. You either have to let off the gas or push it, otherwise it bucks.

Add some seafoam fuel injector cleaner to gas tank then take out on road and hit the passing gear a few times this will clear out any gum and carbon build up and also help clean the injectors.

Went to auto zone had test ran misfire and bad o2 number 2 , van has loss of power no getup and go off the start once going its fine,jumpy shifting 1and2 , clerk there said that o2 censer will cause these problems. Can replace for 87 $ or buy universal for 55 , I'm going to replace then I'll update

Same problem here ....need advice

distributor caused my prob