99 firebird v6 turns over but won't start?

When did this start stopping for you? at while you were at the convenience store, came out and it happened? overnite, you came out and it wouldn't start? after a high speed police chase?

You sittin' on empty or the gas tank is full?

no hiccups or backfires? Mileage over 150,000 might coulda jumped a tooth?

where/when/under what circumstances did this happen?

Keep me guessin' then, pcv valve, egr valve, vacuum advance failure choked air filter bent accelerator linkage, tranny mounts affecting throttle linkage thru defective transmisson mounts--

first through some fuel down the throat from squeeze bottle gas,see if needs fuel to pistons.if so then the injectors are not opening for a reason .if still no fire, its mechanical like timing belt ,or terrible plugs

Everything has been fine up until this afternoon. I drove it this morning to the store and back home. I got in and started up fine, back up out of the parking space, and started driving forward. It just stalled. Turns over with out starting. Push it back in the stall. I checked the plugs they are fine, getting good spark. Fuel pressure is fine, but the injectors are not opening to spray. I'm getting no power to them. I put a volt meter to them, no power while turning motor over. Any ideas?

yes. your battery is old. these things degrade 10% per year. clean the battery connections solid, including the ground to chassis connection and to motor connection too. With solid and bolted-down power this whole stalling business will go away!~

battery is fine, no connection problem. If injectors aren't getting power when turning over motor, could it be the Ignition Control Module? Does that control the injectors to open and close?

We tend to forget the ground, but I always use the analogy of commander data killing the borg by simply cutting the power...pushin the off button, well lack of negative ground effectively pushes the 'off' button on your electronics (if the ground isn't solid and corroded) and to the engine which also needs negative for spark and starter- do not underestimate the importance of a solid ground connection!

yes it does, that's why solid ground is so important. works off of information gathered from the cam and crank sensors and temperature sensor too, MAP, EGR, AND MAF and O2 and TPS are all taken into account-

I don't have a battery or ground problem, I disconnected the battery cables and check all that. Getting power to turn motor over and run the headlights. Something is telling me its the Ignition Control Module, Ive replace the cam sensor three time last year. It was coding it over and over. And every time it wet or rains, it's misfires.

every time I've had a problem with the computer...it was the GROUND....or lack thereof what created the 'brownout' condition...kinda scientific to explain but on a galvonic level the power gets "brown", like stirring cat food into your pot of delicious chili...ain't gonna be delicious no more...run it clean...stop screwin around and put it's connections to the battery solid and reliable!

thank you for the kudos, by the way....am tryin' my best to make your machine reliable and beautiful to drive....everytime a vehicle strands me in the past, I've made it a point to GET RID of that vehicle so's I aint got that sinking feeling of unreliability. So far, the '61 Cadillac, the 66,72 and 74 beetles had to go. the 79 brown pontiac had to go, I'm gettin' picky about my ride anymore~ this vehicle will make you proud if given a chance to!

Sorry, dude. You weren't even close to helping me. It was a blown fuse in the motor compartment. I have been working on cars a long time. This car I've had for 13 years, replaced the motor myself. I was a little dumbfounded on the problems but after reading problems about injectors I found the answer to be either the Ignition Control Module or a fuse. I have three fuse boxes on my car, two are in the motor compartment. Now I know and so do you.

Roy you were in left field while he was playing hockey, bad ground = no crank congrats on getting all those points by begging for them.

where is this 3rd fuse box. I am having the same issue.

Under the hood on the driver side near the headlight. The two fuse boxes are next to each other.

It took me some time to find out it was the fuse causing the motor not to start, not the battery or alt. I replaced the 15 amp fuse, but it kept blowing out. So, come to find out the fuel pump in the gas tank was going out. That was the main problem causing the fuse to blow. Yes, the fuel injector fuse and the fuel pump fuse too. I ended up replacing the fuel pump, nice little price tag of $350.00 My advice is to have the fuel pressure tested and make sure it pumping the right amount of pressure. It should be 55 psi

well I only have one. So mine is either the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay I guess

Patrick, depending on the year of your Firebird, it may have only 1 fuse box underhood. My 95 has 1 fuse box in the passenger compartment and 1 fuse box by the driver side headlight. As far as testing your fuel pump, there is a connector on the passenger side of the vehicle under the hood near the PCM (it's back up near the firewall). The wire isn't connected to anything but if you run a hotwire to it from your battery, it sends 12V directly to the fuel pump so you can test it. If the fuel pump spins up, then it's probably your fuel pump/starter relay. It's located under the box to the left of your pedals or behind the left side kick panel.

Also, appropriate fuel pressure will vary based on the engine your vehicle is equipped with.

yea thanks. I found the relay. I knew where that was. I have the 96 V6. I have a fuse box on the drivers side compartment and drivers side under the hood by the head light. none of them have a fuse fore the fuel pump. That is why I ask where the 3rd fuse box was.

Hmm. I'm not fully versed in the 3.8L Firebirds (my expertise is more LT1 related) so I'm not sure about a 3rd fusebox location. In mine, the fuel pump fuse is in the driver headlight compartment.

I have a 99 v6 firebird and here lately it's been dying on me while driving and won't start back up until about 20 minutes later and even then it won't last long until it dies again it just started doing this couple days ago do you think the fuel pump fuse relay goes on for a little and then goes back off because I don't understand

The problem I'm having Seems similar as yours christin.think If i replace the fuel pump relay fuse that will help? or do I need to get the pump too..

I come to learn my fuse problem was deeper than replacing the fuse. I kept having problems with my pump and injectors, it was my ECM going bad. I burned up my ICM, the connector to my ICM, and a few fuel pumps. It was later i learned my ECM was to problem. The ECM won't code on the OBD II. The parts stores want too much so Ebay is the cheapest place. Make sure you get the number off the ECM before ordering it and so make sure they flash it to your VIN.

I have a 2001 firebird it ran fine I parked it can me back out an hour later it will not start has gas fuel pump is running got no fire can anyone help

oh man that some pretty good stuff right Cheech?

Same thing here it was an open fuse in the fuse box marked IGN ECM. The fuse that I found bad was supposed to be 15 amp yet there was a 30 amp fuse in that space. a short while back we paid a bunch of fools to play around with this thing for almost a month and evidently that's what they came up with was putting the 30 amp fuse in there after they finally found the intermittent problem. I replaced it with a 15 and it didn't blow and the car started right up. So I put the 30 back in it and handed the car back to the X and evidently I probably have a bad fuel pump that I'll be replacing. for now I handed her the other for spare 30 amp fuses and pointed to where it goes. bought a fuel pressure tester and my pressure checked at about 50. Bought a fuel filter and some gas dryer didn't put the filter in yet put the gas dryer in the tank. Good luck my friends

my 1999 camaro 3.8 v6 i was in 1st gear at 6000rpms and it just cut off it has park and has fuel pump i dont know what the problem is but its very taken care of

Turns out it was the engine control fuse actually. The car will have everything but Spark when you're doing a rough DOA on it.. unlike fuel pump or engine sensor fuses it runs the automatic transmission the cam and crankshaft sensors the tank vent valve by the filler cap at the tank and the 1/2 psi pressure vent on the intake manifold. We tore the harness completely apart all the way around the engine compartment and back across the motor with particular attention to the leads dropping down by the 1/2 PSI vent and motorized EGR valve on the manifold and rather close to the moving pulleys and belt across the front of the motor and found no damage anywhere . It could have been trouble in the transmission or in the ECM as the supplies for the crank and cam go through there or the sensors themselves but when the car ran it ran beautifully it could have been a zillion things . I just guessed at the 1/2 pound Purge vent valve as it most likely receives the most heat. It could stick especially if the vehicle sits a lot in Florida Heat and it's black like my ex's. Factoring gas or gas Vapors softening or making a rubber part sticky. When The purge solenoid sticks the current will either weaken or blows the fuse outright. I had it Blow three times one day in a row and before I could get the meter setup for a peak current measurement hold on the meter the fourth time the car ran and I couldn't figure out what it was. It may weaken it and cause it to fracture while you're going down the road as hers did once. I replaced the purge vent $25 and I didn't bother with the vent valve $22 at the tank yet. The reason why I suspected one of these solenoids is that I know from experience that if they get sticky and or sluggish to lift they pull heavy current probably 10 to 20 times instantaneous than their continuous magnetically sealed in position rating. The last engine mechanic that helped me tear through and inspect the harness and flush the skanky coolant again said he doesn't buy it. he says he's never seen a solenoid get sticky, pull heavy and blow a fuse. I've seen pull solenoids get jammed and literally catch on fire on machines.

If it has spark and it has fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the motor then put some gas in the intake and see if it'll run while you're to crank it and if it does then it's in fuel management. Look for codes . If it doesn't try to run check the mechanical engine timing. Sorry didn't notice you indicated you had Spark.

2002 Firebird v-6. Over the course of 3 weeks the car would die and not start for several minutes. When it ran it ran strong and smooth. Gradually got worse. Would quit 3-4 times in 55 miles in the early morning. Would quit once in the afternoon after about 5 miles, then run fine for the rest of the trip home. It has reached the point of being un-driveable. Will start and run for a minute or 2. Then wont start for several hours. Have good fuel pressure at the fuel rail and will fire when gas is dumped into the intake. Replaced ignition switch and cam sensor. All relays are good. Put in new battery and cleaned the grounds to the body and to the engine block. What runs the fuel injectors?

I suspect I have a scorched connection someplace but I'm not sure where to look.

Suddenly my 98 v6 base. Firebird has began having start and run problems where I half to give into the gas peddle In order to get it running. Also a 3 knock sound more now than b4. Sounds as if coming from gas tank... Idk but used to I couldn't really tell where the knock sound was coming from exactly and it. Used to Only do that every half hour if in the vehicle motor running foot on brake. Maybe less than half hour. Come to think of it foot on brake or in park. But anyways... What in the world could be doing this. It doesn't do this every start. A few will be successful then it won't Run after attempting to start. Unless I hold onto the gas peddle. Its Now when I am returni,g the ignition from off to on position for the next start attempt that every time AS Soon as the ignition catches power I Hear the knock. Now sounds like from gas tank. Sadly Idk. And its getting worse :( Please help Thank you.

I have put in a V 6 motor in my 1999 Pontiac Firebird . For some reason I am not getting no fire to the engine. The engine is turning but will not crank up at all.