Periodically won't start and now...

I'm not sure if it's the 2004 or 2005 (two neons a year apart were bought at the same time...not wise for paperwork purposes).

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=817518 Luckily the part for 04 and 05 are identical. This is the part you MIGHT need. No guarantees that it is your problem but it sure does sounds like it... This is such an easy thing to do, you might be able to do it yourself. Should literally take less than ten minutes to install. Does the engine idle fluctuate RPM's for about a minute after you start it (and sometimes stall)?

"Does the engine idle fluctuate RPM's for about a minute after you start it (and sometimes stall)?" Yes, sometimes the RPMs will fluctuate slowing then speeding back up. If it slowed too much I know to tap the gas. From eHow.com: A bad idle air control valve can cause a car to stall immediately after ignition in warm weather, but the vehicle will start properly when it is cold. When the accelerator is pressed, however, the car will stall. Likewise, if the temperature outside is warm enough, the car may start even though the idle air control valve is bad but will require the driver to immediately press the acceleration pedal to keep it from stalling. Read more: Signs of a Bad Idle Air Control Valve | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/list_7219549_signs-idle-air-control-valve.html#ixzz27nRfJLFE My car never stalls when it's cold, sometimes pressing the accelerator won't prevent it from stalling, but it never stalls because of it. This sounds like it may be the answer (and a simple plug-and-play one at that). I'll see about getting that replaced, but I won't know if it worked until we get a toasty day again.

I think this is the problem. Bad IAC's can also act up in cold weather. Every time I have had one go bad, it is always worse when it is cold out.

So I was very delayed in replacing this because I feared it would be a waste of money. The car finally decided refuse to start at all and when I replaced this part it started up just fine. I do not know if long term it will work, but if someone else is having a similar problem they will know this improved the situation a lot.

as for your control arm bushings, its a common problem on higher mileage neons. mechanics are anal about them too. easiest course to remedy the problem is to buy complete control arms with the bushings already in them. (Rockauto.com) sells them for a decent price. the other route, which is harder but will last longer, is to buy prothane control arm bushings from (modernperformance.com) these bushings will probably outlive the car but are harder to install since you need to reuse the old control arm and will require the use of a press to get the old bushings out. hope that helps

I have a question, so my dumbass decided to power wash my engine. It's a 2001 Plymouth neon 2.0 and after I did it, it was running good until I turned it off and turned it back on . When it was on and I would step on the gas it would hesitate and shake a lot . The exhaust would make a weird and loud noisy, it kinda sounded like a motorcycle . After a while it stop making the noise and the car would run good for like a mile or 2 and it would start shaking again and turn off. It wouldn't start sometimes . So I left it like that and the next day it there was no start at all . When I looked at the engine there were some wires that were bad and could of got wet . When I put the key in the ignition the air control valve gets really hot and the car isn't even on I don't know if that's normal ? The only thing I've moved and replaced were the relays but it still didn't work . I have no clue what's wrong with it and I don't want to spend money on things that matter . If you could advise me on what might be the issue it would be a good help . I need my car for school and I can't afford a mechanic to fix it.