Loud Tapping Noise:2009 Silverado

sounds like they are right. it would seem to me that its an internal issue with the engine. it should be under warranty so just take it back to the dealer

my uncles 2005 1500 with what i belive is the same engine as yours... 5.3L is having similar problems, also happnd right after an oil change but he was a bit over on it, his problem is the lifters making noise and weve done some reaserch and it seems many others are having the same problem, always remember a tapping/ ticking is always more than likly going to be a lifter or rocker. if it were a deeper noise or a knock your be in much deeper trouble. i belive chase is right it should be under waranty but if not any work done by the dealer will be far from cheap expecialy when your geting inside the motor. if its not under waranty i would purchase some LUCAS oil aditive or even lucas break in oil and add it to your oil if that dosnt take care of it its up too you from there. also SEA FOAM makes a good product but i have no expiriance with running it in my oil

... and your pistons are fine if its intearnal it is either a lifter or simply a loose rocker unless youve seriuosly neglected your engine and beat the shit out of it it shouldnt be having major internal problems when only 3 years old... shame on chevy for even having lifter noises before 10 years

Have you tried changing the oil again, I changed the oil in my truck when it did that and it stopped, it started again about 1500 miles later, flushed the crank case with motor flush, found at any parts house, it looked and smelled like diesel, which would probably work as well, mine had a sludge build up. It still makes a slight noise at start up on cold mornings I plan to flush it again at next oil change. Hope this helps.

wow I would like to say im a chevy man. And for chevy to know that there is a problem with this, and do nothing about it. Is just plain B S . Save face and do the right thing for us chevy owners . I have a 2009 chevy silverado and it has the same problem ( TICKING FROM THE MOTOR) . OSCAR THE GROUCH !!!

Chevy has used grade 5 bolts on many of their trucks to fasten the exhaust manifolds. They need to be grade 8 bolts. Look to see if some of your bolt heads have snapped off and get them replaced. A leaky manifold sounds like and engine tick when the gaskets are cold. The sound goes away when heat expands them.

Had oil changed today at Chevy dealership 2009 chevy.....tapping/knocking noise......of course I'm female so I've been freaking out.....hubby said every chevy he's had has done this so he put Lucas oil in so.....fingers crossed!!!

grade 8 is overkill for exhaust, but yes could be exhaust leak. Have you checked the oil level in the truck? it requires 6 quarts of oil as opposed to the normal 5 quarts. The 5.3 i've seen to be hit or miss for some, i've seen some have over 200k miles and still be strong and some fail before they hit 50k miles. Lots of things can tick, valve train, injectors, exhaust leak, spark jumping, assesories.

Same problem - ticking or knocking noise very noticeable at idle on my 2009 Avalanche. I have 92K on it and just noticed it after it also began to run a little rough from time to time at idle.

46 1/2 years mechanic I don't know everything but I know chevy and own a 2007 Silverado 5.3.Its the third one I've owned and two knocked.Belive me its a piston noise period.Take oil filler cap off and start if it's lifters or rockers (which lifters take up slack and have 125 thousands travel) you'll hear it on top in.Lifters travel half the speed crank or Pistons travel thanks

This may sound too simple but if it helps someone else ... so be it ! I have a 2009 Silverado 1500 LTZ that just started a bad ticking noise a few days ago and was driving me nuts. It has a touch over 112000Km (yes I'm Canadian) immediately got it in the garage and the early diagnostics went from mild to wild ... was scaring the crap out of me ! Anyway long story short, mechanic suggested an oil change to try first ... he suggested a Full Synthetic Oil with Dextos (according to GM recommended after 2011's). Thought it was a sham but hadn't gone over ten blocks when all noise stopped (quieter than ever). In the past couldn't see cost difference for Synthetic but it's damn cheap compared to some of the other things he suggested trying if this didn't work ! Hope this helps even one individual and it will be well worth it ! If it works would appreciate hearing from you at rafeke65@gmail.com Thanks ... Dave !

I have a 2006 Silverado and mine started knocking at 175K miles. I've been using Valve Medic and it tends to work well to quite the knocking. It occasionally knocks on cold mornings, but tends to quite down after about 5-10 miles and when the engine warms up. I'm at 231K miles now and it's starting to knock a little more often. Has anyone tried Valve Medic? If so, how does it compare to other products? Is there a better product to quite Lifter noise?

My husbands 2007 Chevy Silverado (74,000 miles) truck just recently started having a knocking noise to the lower end of the motor which is noticeable when parked on when in low gear. No warning lights/no oil pressure issue/no smoke out of exhaust. The truck had a 7 year/70,000 warranty that has expired. Prior to the expiration, my husband reported high oil consumption. The dealership is claiming that the oil consumption has nothing to do with the lower end knocking sound. They are pulling the oil pan to look for medal shavings and to identify the cause of the sound. This is a 4 hour job that will cost $400. Does that sound right?

My 2008 LT has the same problem and i noticed it after an oil change at Big O Tires in Sierra Vista AZ, But now i have a much bigger problem, It has a much heavier knocking and rattling noise! And i dont know what to do, how long are the warranties with chevy on used vehicles

Don't know but my warranty was finished ... came back off and on and I think was getting louder ! Gave up and traded it last week ... took a beating on price but the dealer can now worry about the noise !

ive a 2008 quad cab 4 whhel drive got in started the truck it is knocking loudly sound coming from the top side is it a lifter? Any sugestions on repairing it

Kind of late on the subject, but: I have a 2007 Avalanche, 210,000 miles. Been a good truck up to this point. But, it has always used oil, no leaks or smoke. However, recently I had a tap in top of motor, and light came on for p0300..Miss on # 4 Cylinder. Stabilitrac light also came on. I check plugs, and two were very dark ( only 3 months old). I pulled the heads off, and I am in the process of replacing. I am also going to replace the lifters . Hopefully this will take care of the problem.

I have a 07 Silverado with a 5.3 V8 with 97000 miles. I noticed a "tick" about 3 weeks ago that is the loudest when I listen in the driver side wheel well. I thought maybe I had a bad batch of oil so I changed it again using a synthetic blend. Had no impact on the ticking. When I first start the truck it does not tick but after it warms the ticking becomes very notifiable. I took it to the Chevy dealer and they kept it for 2 days and are unable to find any problems. Their head mechanic took me aside and said he has an 06 Silverado with the same motor with over 200K miles and said his has been ticking just like mine since before it had 100K miles. He said it is a knock sensor and nothing to worry about. He showed me his truck and sure enough, it ticks just like mine. He said it is just a "Chevy thing" and will not impact the performance or longevity of the motor. I have no alternative but to believe him so my fix is turning the stereo up and the AC on and I cant hear a thing.

JUST BOUGHT 2 TAHOES WITH THE 5.3 lmg CODE ENGINE. One a 2010 with 132k was taken out of service cause of ticking noise. When it was delivered I drove it hard home and ticking noise has not returned. Did a oil change a week after and been a month still quiet. Other is a 2009 with 144k same issue but continues. when started sounds like exhaust for 5-10 seconds then the tick will sporadically come back as driving or sitting at light and oil pressure will drop. had a code for oil pressure switch but it would not cause actual oil pressure to drop. so thinking Pump or worst case the DOD valves and the replace lifters and cam, although oil came out dirty but clean of any metallic flaking.

I have 2010 yukon xl slt, knocking has just started on cold start will change oil. Please suggest is ACdelco oil good for gmc or chevy? Please email me iam really worried. ghi007@live.com

2007 5.3 going to try sea foam.130000 miles lifter noise. also oil pressure sending unit goes to 0 but have pressure. going to change filter in sending unit 20.00 part.Or worse oil pump pressure relief valve stuck.

Also told cheap oil filters causing drop in oil pressure causing valve tick and pressure gauge problems.

i have a 2003 GMC Yucon XLT with 543026 miles had tapping at top of motor. They said that it was lifters . So I got a can of Sea Foam put in oil ran it 100 miles and then changed oil and every thing was good as new. Now I have 543310 mile and not a bad tap.

I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3 crew cab. I started hearing a loud knocking/ticking sound coming from the motor for no reason from one day to the next. I tried everything... changed the oil, checked fuses , oxygen vacuum sensor and nothing seemed to be it. Believe me that noise was stressful. Anyway one day I started messing with it and touching everything in and around the motor making sure that nothing was lose or unplugged and sure enough, I found the problem. It was a spark plug cable that was lose and misfiring. After I re-connected and secured the cable, the noise GONE!! Just make sure all spark plug cables are plugged in all the way.

We bought a new 2009 Silverado Texas Edition truck in April 2009. We only used the truck to tow our TT and around town so basic warranty was up when a ticking noise occurred. Took it to Chevrolet dealership and lifters and cam shaft had to be replaced, under the 5 year 100,000 mile warranty. One year later, same thing happened and dealership replaced cam shaft and lifters under warranty. Then three more times this occurrred again and truck was out of warranty by years not mileage and the latest time was June 2016!!! Even Chevrolet dealership told us we should repair it and trad it in on another truck--- well we have always bought Chevys but we were done with Chevy trucks...we traded our truck in on a Ford F-150 Platinum that a close friend of ours was trading in on his new 2016 F150 Platinum truck. Dealership let us buy our friends truck for the tradein value they were giving him for his new truck and took our 2009 Chevrolet Silverado in on the trade. We lost money on the tradein of our Chevrolet truck but we were done with repairing it over and over agin for the exact same thing. Word to the wise, we should have driven the truck and not just " saved" it for vacation trips, as this truck was a lemon and we would have used that law to give the truck back to GM.

I found out the tapping/clattering noise is caused by a bad O-ring on the pick up tube connecting to the oil pump. Changed whole pickup tube with the new o- ring and no more problems. Now Oil pressure initially on cold start jumps to 60 and as the motor warms up it drops to a little above 40 at idle and increases with Rpms and speed to about 60 at 70 mph. Before changing the pickup tube oil pressure was around 35 at startup and barely above 40 when driving. After driving a while and a lot of engine clattering it would build pressure to between 40 and 50 and eventually the tapping would stop until I idled again for a while. Glad to have this problem solved,

Knock sensor

Knock sensor is letting the timing become advanced too far and a rocker is tapping, mine has done it for 3 years, and it stops once fully warmed up, and mine has 200k on it, and also does it worse when needing an oil change . .. it can't. Be a piston or it Would have cratered by now, and s loose rocker would tap all the time and if it were a lifter the push rod would have already gave up, I hit 6500 fairly often and it seems to be bulletproof...

Do NOT let them tear into it, it will end up being a big waste of money, and the problem is they are all computer techs now instead of mechanics, go to an old school mechanic and he will explain it better, but mine has done it for a 100k, but as long as it runs and doesn't tap completely warm it's all good, plus these motors were actually made for high powered camaro , not really for trucks, and high hp motors have a lot of clearance so they can wind way up..

The oil pump O ring makes the most sense, the actions of the oil pressure and when the noise happens, indicate oil pressure issues caused by the oil bypassing the pump. Thanks mposey9293!

I fixed this problem on my truck by changing the Oil Pump Inlet Tube O-Ring. The lifters are the first part that don't get enough oil after this o-ring breaks down. All Chevrolet mid 2000s era 5.3L O-Ring fails around 150-190K. Oil Pump Inlet tube O-Ring Replacement https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1e3kx3mOMY

I have what sounds like the oil pump inlet tube o ring failure also. When the noise started the oil pressure dropped to between 35 an 40 and only gets back up to 55 or 60 when it's cold. How much did that cost to replace?

O ring does not seem right to me,there's no oil at block on pickup tube where it's connected and if it's at pick up screen it's in oil all the time.Sounds like clarance problem to me,cam shaft bearings main bearings or rod bearings or all. Loose enough to loose pressure but not enough to knock , cold you'd have ample pressure warm the viscosity thins down,change oil put 30 weight in and see what happens,not a fix just diagnosing the pressure problem, If pressure is better on idle at warm it's probably bearings,how many miles on rig? Hope this helps

A collapsed piston will not effect oil pressure,when noise is there at idle ground each spark plug out one at a time if noise quits that's the cylinder knocking

To all you guys with lifter problem noise,if rocker and push rod is ok and it is Truely a lifter,add one quart of automatic transmission oil per oil change,ever see a dirty automatic transmission on inside? Me either,it's a detergent and will clean oil feed hole out most of the time,been doing it since 1963 and now drive a 2011 5.3 and no noise what so ever,100,n it and don't like the thought of removeing the heads to get to lifters on a five three.

I have a 2011 also and it is ticking,but mine sputters and doesnt want to go when you give it gas any ideals?

The more i push the gas the faster the ticking gets

5.3 about 75 present have ticking noise from lifter,have to remove heads to get to them out . Listen to a few and you'll probly hear the same noise

So do u think i should just drop a new motor in it

Put in a quart of marvel mystery oil 500 before oil change. Don't forget to drain out a quart first. This will insure clean oil passages in the hydraulic AFM lifters preventing oil burn and ticks and knocking. Also a range or diablo AFM disabler is a great idea.

At of automatic transmission oil at oil change,it's a detergent,ever see a dirty automatic transmission on the inside? No

2004 4.8l Tahoe owner here. Had a mind boggling knock after using Royal Purple. Replaced with Mobil 1 plus Lucas full synthetic, still knocked. Replaced with Valvoline High Mileage synthetic blend plus Nano Pro MT, knocking decreased dramatically but still noticeable. By now I'm broke from continuous oil changes but my ocd would just not let me give up. Took the biggest risk yet and went with Kendall Liquid Titanium GT-1 MAX plus Marvel Mystery Oil. SUCCESS! My Tahoe has never ran quieter.

Just to add from above, always an ACDELCO oil filter.

I have the same truck same problem. you have to adjust your lifter it needs to be put in poison and retorked..

My 2008 GMC Denali with 6.2 L engine did the same thing at around 35000 miles. Noise when start up. It is the lifter {tappets} bleed down. They don't hold there pressure. EASY and I mean EASY fix !!!!!!!! I was running Mobil 1 {junk} and at first I added 1/2 qt. marvel mystery oil and that helped alot. Not so loud. Then I changed oil to Royal Purple 10-30 wt. 5qt. and 1 qt. marvel mystery oil. NOISE is GONE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NEVER had noise again. Its been 1 year and 6700 miles and NOT 1 NOISE ,EVER !!!!!!! I am going to change oil again, and it will be Royal Purple and marvel. Try it , it WORKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've experienced the same problem with noisy lifters. After replacing all valve lifters twice the engine was torn down to find a lobe on the camshaft had rolled. I was told that the 5.3 with fuel saver has had this problem. After replacing the camshaft at about 60,000 moles ,the engine has been doing fine. It now has 137000 miles.

I have a 2008 GMC Denali {truck} with 6.2 motor. At about 40,000 miles ,my tappets would make noise when motor cold for around 10 sec. Tappets would 'bleed' down at night. Was running Mobil 1 {junk} and switch to Royal Purple ,with 1/2 qt. of marvel mystery oil, and NO MORE NOISE !!!!!! That was over 2 years ago. Not one noise ever !!!! Try it. I have 2 friends did the same thing,and no noise either. Royal purple works,with 1/2 qt. marvel mystery oil.

I have been driving my late fathers z71 with 5.3. I put Bar Leaks oil additive in it bc it was blowing a little smoke on start up. I also added a fuel system cleaner. After 600 miles I now have thick smoke at startup and loud ticking that gets faster as I rev. It has 143k miles, but hasnt been driven much in 2 years until now. I am curious if the oil additive is removing sludge and that is what is causing the thick smoke at start up and the knocking/ticking. Wonder if the old saying "tbe dirt js what is holdi g it together" might apply here...

Look everybody's panicking and you're hearing a bunch of crazy answers but the bottom line is the second generation up on the 5 threes which is about 2007 and up have hydraulic lifters and where the motor kicks down to a 4 cylinder and stops for of the cylinders it stops the hydraulic lifters because it does that it causes problems for them when you do start using the V8 and over time they go bad and you have to replace them they are hydraulic they're not like your typical like 1999 2000 model Chevrolet trucks they have hydraulic lifters the clicking noise you're hearing is the lifters I can almost bet you you can pull the valve cover off and watch have somebody crank over the engine and you'll see a valve not moving the one that's not moving is the one that you need to replace it's not very expensive as far as parts but depending on who you used to do the job but it's yourself or if you pay a mechanic to do it then of course they're going to charge you a lot but if you could do it yourself you're better off