Heater does not blow on 3 or 4 Works great on 1 and 2. Is it the switch or resistor

Most blower motors have a device called a resistor that determined on usage burn out. There is a resistor for each speed but you have to replace them all because they are all inside of something called a resistor pack. That part is not expensive (about $30 on Ebay). The switch is fine ,,, this sort of problem happens all the time. Good luck Tom

No. It's the blower motor resistor. Get new one at local auto parts store. This is what it looks like: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=-6P7BoyXki0

2001 hyundai elantra heater switch burnt out in a few months i have replaced the switch 5 times two cought fire and the others smoke and stop working have hyundai look at it nothing wrong with heater system just keeps burning the switch up number five switch i just got starting to smoke now it's not working does any one know what it's that is killing the blower switch i paid 600 dollars and had the whole system replaced and it's still doing it.

I have 2 2001 hyundai elantra's gls both have the same problem they burn the fan control switch out my first hyundai elantra i had 2 control switches cough fire and had to have the wiring replace by hyundai and 2 months later had a other fire had to replace wiring again, the 3 other switchs just smoked and stop working i just had the switch replaced again and it started to smoke again my other hyundai elantra has gone threw about 23 control switches from new to now both car burn these switch up hyundai repair can't find the problem one car had the whole heating system replaced still doing it, i think the switch was made cheap they melt were the plug goes in both cars do it one does it a lot the other does it not so much can any one tell me what it's because hyundai deal and hyundai service can't find it...

When you say burns the "switch", do you mean the ON-OFF switch on the dash, or are you referring to the blower motor resistor that keeps burning up? Here's a pic of the resistor.

The speed control switch burns or smokes on 2001 hyundai elantra's gls i have two car same color, year everything is the same one does it more then the other the fan speed control in photo's is new but i know it will be burned out by the end of march the deal has no clue what the problem is, sad when the deal told me the next time it catches fire too let it burn so hyundai will recall it. the plug i am pointing at is the plug that catches fire or smokes before it stops working.

The speed control switch burns or smokes on 2001 hyundai elantra's gls i have two car same color, year everything is the same one does it more then the other the fan speed control in photo's is new but i know it will be burned out by the end of march the deal has no clue what the problem is, sad when the deal told me the next time it catches fire too let it burn so hyundai will recall it. the plug i am pointing at is the plug that catches fire or smokes before it stops working.

between both cars i have replaced this switch about 35 times and one i had the whole heating system replaced and it still does it. i made hyundai take everything out i had them replace wires the case for the heater and everything blower motor, switches, resistors, wiring, fuse, relay and what ever goes with it worked fine then 3 months after doing all that it started all over again.

If it were me, I would run a hot wire from the battery with an inline fuse to a toggle switch, then from the switch to the blower motor. I would drill a small hole underneath the dash out of sight, but still reachable with your hand. You will most likely only have high speed, but it will sure beat buying switches. If you let the switch burn again, it may take months or years before they do a recall. I'm sure they have some secret dollar amount they have formulated before they will take any action. Since a switch is not life threatening, I think they will drag it out until the very end if at all. When you go to trade or sell the car, just plug the 12 volt hot wire back to the selector switch and everything will be working as it should. It sounds like the way the switch is made, there's not enough plastic to properly insulate all of the contacts with the amount of voltage used. It appears to melt down the plastic until the connections make contact with one another and it burns up. Just a quick question, when the switch burns up, are you able to see on what side of the switch burns? Or is the whole thing just one big crispy mess? Because by looking at your pic, it looks like the bottom pin to the right of your finger sits just below two copper pieces. Is that in fact copper or just an illusion due to the pic clarity?

These is the switch took it out to show you the switch is cheap this one smokes and sparks when on any speed.

Car gurus sued? More like the Hyundai dealership that keeps doing nothing about it! According to Jaxjim the poster, the dealership dunces supposedly replaced the entire heating system. Including the blower motor. So either the dealership lied and never replaced the entire heating system, or Jaxjim has the worst luck in the world with three blower motors that have bad "segments". In essence, it's either a really bad design flaw or it very well could be a bad segment. It is a bit curious that Jaxjim has two of these cars and they both suffer from the same issue and one has been completely redone. So, that means 3 blower motors with bad segments? I would tend to lean towards this dealership is either completely incompetent, or they are lying about the work being done.

I gave my opinion and did not suggest he run a wire from the battery. The proper way to trouble shoot that problem is to insert a resistor across the switch (even a small 12 VDC bulb) and find the source of the short, Using an Ohm meter is hard to do because the normal resistance of a DC PM Motor can be less than 1 ohm

I believe you. But unless you are trained in electronics or are a highly trained auto technician, the average guy will not know to test it like that. Most of us just put a test light on the hot end of the female plug and if the light comes on, we know the motor is getting 12 volts. And it will run with a bad segment. If the dealership were doing their jobs, they would have done that test. I only suggested my solution because if the dealership can't figure it out, what else are you supposed to do? I don't know where he lives, and for all I know it's winter there with snow and you really need your fan to blow. I realize my fix is not the correct fix, but at the very least it may solve the problem. By running it from the battery the way I suggested you are eliminating the resistor and the switch. If it is a bad segment, granted, it will toast the toggle. But like I said, 3 motors with bad segments? Now that's some pretty bad luck.

I'm an electrical engineer ... Robotics, CNC and design. The few remaining PM (permanent magnet) motors still being used are in cars. A few of the high end manufacturers are using Brushless DC motors. The Brush type DC motor has been around for over 100 years and the problems they have ... has never changed. The brushes wear out or the armature shorts out or both the brushes wear out and the springs holding the brushes short the com out. Imagine a car that is 10 years or older ... imagine how hard that motor has worked ... summer heat ... winter cold. The starter motor will be a hard motor to replace with new tech. a motor that rarely fails and in some cases draws over 100 amps

I agree 100%. Also like the PM motors, we still have the internal combustion engine that has also been around for over 100 years. It's not like they don't have superior technology to phase them out. But as you know, it's all about the money!

ok i called the dealer again they told me to bring it back next Monday they plugged the new switch in and the switch melted right in front of the service guy after he just install it he pull the fuse on the heating system they know that the heating system was replaced they told me they want to send the car back to the manufacturer to see if they can find the problem because i told them you fixed it i paid for it fix it are we go to court, i told them i have two car the same cars and have the same problem so Monday i drop it off and will not see the car for four weeks deal told me if they find the problem it maybe the same problem with the other car so hope they find it i like the cars they are good cars just one bad thing with them. i will keep you updated if they find the problem and tell how it went fingers crossed.

when the hyundai repair guy change the switch he turned the heater on switch melted in front of him and the car did something new it shut down and the air bag light started blinking car wouldn't start to he pulled the heating fuse then the car started he thinks it has something to do with the wires or amps coming from the engine he not sure so they are sending it to the manufacturer next Monday.

i pull the fuse out of my other car too i will wait and see what the manufacturer has to say.

Be careful ... that sounds like a "Tell them what they want to hear " answer. Look at it this way ... a guy comes in the shop with a car that's using lots of oil . I say " you must be burning oil" He says " No, there's no smoke at all" ... then I say " You must be leaking it" He says "No .. the driveway is dry as a bone" I check all the fluids and find no contamination. My point is the oil is either leaking or burned and denial will never fix the problem. An electrical circuit consists of a supply and a load. It is governed by the laws of science and these laws are irrefutable ... Albert Einstein himself vows these laws to be absolute. A voltage of 12 volts is supplied to a motor that draws 12 amps using the laws of science we know that Amps = Voltage resistance so if we check the resistance with a cheap Harbor Freight $5 meter that we put on the Ohm scale ( Ohm is a unit of resistance) we will see the resistance of the Motor is 1 ohm. Now we know the scientific formula is Amps= Volts resistance or A=V/R ... we now put the values in and we have Amps= 12/1 so it's 12 volts divided by 1 ohm and that = 12 amps =12volts/1 ohm .. of course 12 divided by 1 is 12. Now if you put your meter on ground and the wire going to the motor you will get an ohm or resistance value. Once you get that value you divide it by the cars voltage of 12 volts .. the answer will be how many amps the motor should draw. This is a shotgun way to determine a current ... and a motor has a characteristic called Commutator effect but if you get a reading of less than .25 ohm (point 25 not 25) you have a short

A shotgun down and dirty test is to get a parking light bulb .. put one side on the 12volts and put one side on the wire going to the motor and you should hear the motor start to turn when the bulb gets bright ,,, if the bulb gets bright and no sound then the motor is either jammed or shorted if the motor begins to spin and you get a rapid flash then the motor has a shorted commutator

my formula's are not what they should look like ... The mssg box took my special letters out. It should have read ~~ amps = volts on top of resistance or if you know the volts and ~~you know the Resistance ~~ than you put the volts over top of the resistance to make a fraction then you can figure out what the amps should be like 12 volts over 1 ohm equals 12 amps

i can check with other car but the other is the deal problem because they replaced the heating system so it's there dime, i will try the other car when i get up the heater work on that one but i do know for not long but will check i like these cars they never break down they get me home and around so i just fix them plus i don't want a car payments.

ok i was bored and took it apart to do the test you said to do and found a box near the blower orange and red wire are touching the wire was hot to i moved orange and red apart the wires cooled down these wires in behind the glove box the blower slowed down but the plug is melted to the box can't pull it out stuck together.what should i do buy new plug and what ever that box is or show dealer?

I would buy a new parts and replace after repairing the fused together wires. That's all the dealer will do. And then charge you $400 for doing it. Try a salvage yard first for the parts.

Good for you dude ... you got more than satisfaction ... you got knowledge that will serve you well. You now have the confidence of a good mechanic ... plus you demonstrated what a good mechanic is. He's the guy that does that little bit extra , something he's not paid to do .. he does it for knowledge it will give him in the future. It's money in the bank in addition to some insight of a service manager's BS. You deserve lots of credit ... but no service manager in the world will tell anyone you found the problem and not him. That may explain why service managers tenure is .. in many cases short.

well one day and a half and no smoke no fire and it seems to be working fine, i used Hi-Temp Heat Shrink Tubing and wire caps for the wires and found that box at junk yard no clue what it is, i know it works with heating system i would look at my other car but it will end the warranty on the heating system from dealer after having the whole system replaced.

Thank you for helping hope it stays working i will keep updated.

well hyundai took my other car and sent it to the manufacturer today to see what they find wrong with it, what ever the hyundai repair guy did the air bag light is blinking and the engine keeps shutting down after a few minutes since the last switch melt down at hyundai repair service. can not wait to see what they say.

I'm sure it will be an epic story akin to Snow White. Will probably have to make up a bunch of tech jargon to cover for the walnut brains that supposedly replaced the entire heating system. Because they most likely only replaced the original burnt switch for $600. I would bet it's the same two fused wires that you discovered.

well i have the receipt showing the whole heating system was replaced makes the car there problem because the heat system is under warranty they can lie too me all they want but they will fix it or they be giving me new car to make me go away that for sure, plus i know car has more problems now the engine keeps shutting down after a few minutes since the last switch melt down at hyundai repair service and the air bag light is blinking so what ever they did made the car get more problem.

Well, when you get the car back, make sure you tell us the story. I'm sure it will be a good one!

i well and for the other car no smoke no sparking wires not getting hot all this time it was two melted wire that fused other and hyundai repair service couldn't find the problem that really sad, and i find this page and i get help to find the problem and this problem started when the car was 5 years old spent over 4,000 dollars and by doing the test i was told to do i find the problem i need too check online before taking to hyundai repair service wow should should have done this long time a go cost me 47 dollars to do it myself i thank all you guys for help me find the problem and i will lat you know what the manufacturer says what's wrong with it soon as i know.it might be the same problem.

the car the manufacturer took i named it Fire Ball because it had two dash fire in the past and i named the other car Ms Pain because the heater would stop working when i needed it on both cars i never used the heat only if i really needed it i got two 12v heater at the auto store because i couldn't use the heat in the car for a long time.

Well i heard from the manufacturer Friday, they told me that the work i had done was not done the car had all the manufacturer parts that Hyundai repair service didn't replace anything but the control switch, and they are reporting the finding to the Hyundai repair service that the work wasn't done, plus the car has damage car has damage electoral system do to heating system failure that car will need a new electoral harness and a new heating system, well the manufacturer is going to replace the electoral harness and the heating system and give me a two year warranty on the electoral harness and the heating system, plus they are going to charge Hyundai repair service for the work and advise Hyundai repair service to re-fund the money charged for work that was not done, the manufacturer will be reporting this issue to the Hyundai Dealership manager about this issue of work not being done and charging customers for the repair that was not done. you guys was right they don't do the work.

on the other car since i fixed those two wires and replace that box no problem this is the longest i had a switch in this car and still working right thanks guys for helping finding that problem.

That's awesome! I hope that all those rip off artists lose their jobs and the manager of the dealership gets canned as well! You would be shocked to find out how often this happens. This is why I do my own work. Check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTJjqr0QbIk

wow that blinked up, i get my car back in two weeks they are going to test the heating system at the manufacturer plus manufacturer told me i had some problems with front seat i told them i know it was re-called just never took it in to fix it so they are fixing it too.

Good deal! You should have a practically new car by the time they're done!

well no new car but one that works right. i like the cars never breaks down on the side of the road and if it does it does it in front of my house.

got may car back from the manufacturer Friday it got the new car smell they cleaned it and i looked under the dash everything is new they put a new heating system in my car my fan control switch is not the same they even replaced my dash the crack is gone, like i said thank you, and the other car been a week no smoke no sparking and no fires thank you all for the help my car is safe again.

Good for you dude! Nice to see they finally came through for you!

Absolutely amazing and also backs what I have known and said for years about not trusting dealers. Check this one out too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-avpx8UTakI

JP1956, and do you know the saddest thing? I'm sure the owner, Mr. Moxie got nothing more than a slap on the wrist, if he even got that! If you or I stole the hubcaps off someone's vehicle, and it was caught on camera, we would have the cops arresting us, a day in court, and fines to boot! And that's for less than a $100 in plastic hub caps! This clown has been ripping off people for thousands per day, and it's all on camera! Why is he still walking around? He should have been shut down and put out of business! Funny how corporate criminals get away with fraud and extortion on a daily bases and are rewarded for it! This is why I do my own work. And if I can't, I bring it to someone I know personally.

Reelin68 you are exactly like me ! Amazing how corporations run the world we peons get to live in.