2004 V6 Xterra speedometer / engine issue

Could be a number of things. I would have them check the carburetor first.

If you say it's effecting your tach and speedo so they just go 'dead' and the needles go to zero, when you are still rolling along, and the engine dies or simply goes to idle, that would sound like the main ECU, or Engine Control Unit. It is responsible for both the gauge display information and the engine/injector control. If it's something that you can trace to: a) after prolonged running b) hot weather c) heater on I would suggest that it's temp related and the ECU is overheating inside. It could be something as simple as a bad solder connection that opens up as it heats up and things expand. If it's more something that happens when it's damp, raining, or after a wash, then I would suggest a connector that is allowing water in and possibly pulling down the power supply so the ECU craps out. But that is less likely. Either way, it sounds like it's electricl. Since it's the engine and the gauges, it sounds like the ECU. Best of luck!

I dont think it's an electrical problem, because the computer would have read that theres an electrical problem. You might wanna check to see if the accelerator and that section of the engine is fine, simply because all three of those (tach, speed, and gas) dont respond all at the same time.

it is definate that it's a compute problem. Many of todays OBDII diagnostic systems do not store temporary info if what is occuring does not fall out of the 'normal' range. I've dealt with a few Nissans and the TCM (transmission control module) and ECM/PCM (engine control module/powertrain control module) communicate together to produce the signals needed - if one fails, the other uses 'default data' to continue doing what it 'thinks' is right and does not set any codes. the only real way to have it checked is on one of your trips - when it starts acting up, take it to a dealer and have their shop forman drive the vehicle. don't shut it off as any info that is stored will likely be lost. Also, you could see if a 'data recorder' is available that they can give you to record data as the problem happens. many manufactures have this available, not sure if nissan has it or not.

I know it was 6 years ago...they sure keep these things up here for a long time. But I agree with Robert....it has to be the computer codes getting erased when you shut the car off. If it was mechanical all three of those things wouldn't be related and wouldn't occur together...So what was it? The bad part of these forums is the person with the problem never says if it was fixed and if so, what it was!!! Thanks , KM

jstplncrz - Yes! They DO keep these things a long time. I was surprised to receive your question in my email, after all this time. As for the Xterra -- sadly, we never diagnosed it. We gave up on the mechanics at our local Nissan dealership and started checking with other small shops in the area. Three months later - still no luck. We had bought the car for our 17 year old son, but he was never really able to enjoy it because we were afraid the problem would happen with him at the wheel. We finally traded it in to a dealership (with full disclosure), took our loss, and moved on.

I'm having this same issue. Tach doesn't die though, only the speedo. Shifting to neutral and back to drive (automatic transmission) always fixes it... I'm determined to diagnose it. Starting with a new Throttle Position Sensor, new ATF fluid and filter, new ECU, new Gauge Cluster. Already tried replacing the Speed Sensor, and disconnecting the gauge cluster to no avail. I was thinking there's a chance it's transmissions related since shifting to neutral and back always fixes it... If anyone else has suggestions, I'd appreciate them.

I have a really good Mechanic looking at mine now it's a frontier but having the same problem as graysick I will let you know what he figures out

I have just begun having this issue with a 2004 SE 4x4. Only the speedometer drops sporadically unitl tapping on the instrument panel. Seems like a sporadic RPM limit at about 1700 rpm. No rhyme or reason when it happens or when it stops happening. Did just have a code pop up for the speed sensor. About one of the few parts left to replace on this truck.

Just got 2004 Exterra from my sister...she reported the same problem as Joseph, Jasonstull and Graysick above. And it's been how many years???? YOU R RIGHT, nobody apparently posts the fix if they find it! Sister took the car to the dealer, several mechanics, etc no solution. I am determined to find it, obviously related to the speedometer (tach is ok) but thru tranny sensor or throttle or ECM....????? Shift to neutral, rev the engine and fixes while driving. Whacking the dash in the right place brings the speedo back on.....now I make sure to whack it when I start the car in the morning and wth the speedo working, it is ok. But if you stop anywhere you have to check every time....no speedo on, you will get the "hiccup"......can't believe there is this problem and nobody has figgered it ut...darn!

It's the dash cluster solder points, have to remove the unit from the car by removing the dash bolts on the steering wheel and under near the ebrake pedal, it's about 15 bolts or less to get the dash cover to come off so you can pull the cluster unit out, once out the back black cover has to come off and re solder the connections to each gauge since if it looses contact in the cluster it will keep you from going over certain speeds unless shift neutral then back to drive will stop the prob till you turn the engine off, says speed sensor malfunction on my Xterra and looked it up to be this issue and fix, hope helps

Also want to add to this situation that if you get water in the tank from gas stations when or where it rains or snows alot then it could also make your car have similar symptoms so a bottle of heet antifreeze bottle red or yellow bottle will work is a good thing to try first and see if it prevent this from happening again since it will provide exact same issues to driving

Update on my situation, it's the dash cluster, I can hit a few times once this starts happening with foot off the gas pedal and stops happening for my application so I read the solder points on the back of the cluster are cracked just need to add so more to make a full connection and should be done this experience

I was having this issue and replaced the instrument cluster. The cluster works great now, but I now have a high idle and the tranny doesn’t seem to go into overdrive or top gear. Do I have to reset something after the cluster swap?

I have been notified somewhere in a forum that you do have to get a diagnostics ran on a new cluster however you could be dealing with something else because everything piggybacks off of each other in these Nissan's it causes a lot of options that could be the actual problem, you could be experiencing a vacuum leak you could also experiencing a stuck EGR valve, but did you have any symptoms before the fix like what was the RPM shifting at for each gear that you noticed before and after, did you modify the idle screw before the fix so that the fix actually shows how much you adjusted it, I'm just poking in the dark -mine shifts in about two grand per each gear unless I got to hit a hill. I haven't fixed mine yet, I just hit the corner of the top of the dash need the edge on the gas gauge side and let off the gas and it stops doing it for me

I smack it right there where I'm pointing my finger after I let off the gas pedal

Is the cluster you got brand new or is it a used one because you don't want to get someone else's problematic cluster to become your problematic issue, I do know the vss (vehicle speed sensor) is expensive and can cause issues for the shifting but I'll have to look into this after work

It’s a used cluster. I wasn’t having these symptoms prior to installing the used replacement cluster.

When your driving it, have you tried to smack the top of the cluster area and see if that makes it go away, the sensors piggy back from the cluster and if the cluster is used probably has bad solder connection points inside that need to be resolder again to bridge the gap, if you have the ability to look inside of this cluster and see if corrosion may be preventing good connection, also would check the wires going into the unit and would check the prongs that the wires connect to for corrosion or being bent