CRV Timing Chain?

Not that I have heard of.

i am in service at a Honda dealer and we dont have any problems with them at all.

and you have a chain not a belt

Yes, I think so. I have been told by Honda that I have to replace my timing chain, and the timing chain tensioner and timing chain cover, at only 102,000 km (60,000 miles) and a cost of $1,300 plus tax. Strange, since the car has had all its regular maintenance, by Honda, and I bought this vehicle on the understanding that the chain was designed to last the life of the engine. Does that mean that my engine is also shot? Or is it possibly a misdiagnosis of another problem? Or is it a Honda CRV timing chain and or tensioner problem?

Yes I have a 2006 Honda CR-V and I recently went to the dealer and they said my timing chain has shifted and it is not covered under warranty.

i also work in honda service as a tech and can vouch for Aaron. Me and my co workers havent had any problems with the 2.4 timing chain engine that you have. Although we've had one that did need a chain and tensioner because it streched. Sometimes we might get a complaint of a noise due to the timing chain slapping on the guides but thats it. Your situation is kinda odd.

I have a 2005 with 145,000 km and the chain has stretched. The Check Engine light comes on intermittently. Code is PO341. Problem is crank and cam positions don't match due to stretched chain. Vehicle has always been serviced at dealer using recommended fluids.

We also got an intermittent check engine light and a dealer diagnosis of P0341, Cam & Crank in incorrect phase. This is on our '04 Honda CR-V, at 124,000 miles. This is especially surprising as that dealer had just replaced timing chain and tensioner 2 years ago, under an unspecified "service bulletin", as no-cost warranty repair (also they were unaware they had done this until I checked my invoice file and told them). As a former mech engineer, I cannot buy the "stretched chain" hypothesis. I believe a chain can only be stretched by huge torque, as on a racing motorcycle back wheel. Driving a camshaft should be a mild and steady load, I would think. I think it is far more likely to be a tensioner problem, and that should cost much less than the $650 or so they quoted for chain and tensioner. But the service guy sticks to 'the book' and the diagnostic code. He claims that the tech measured the deflection of the tensioner and chain, and found too much free play in the chain. The book says to replace both. He also said, correctly, that our car was low on oil. True, we have been losing oil over a couple of years and have not found the cause, but the car was occasionally 2 qts low (my fault). He claims that low oil can cause the tensioner to fail, which is believable since the tensioner depends on clean oil and oil pressure to function. I have to say that I am impressed that the car computer can measure and compare the crank and cam positions, and each has its own (angular) position sensor. I presume that a total failure of either sensor would put out a different code (as well as shut down the engine), and I doubt that either sensor could 'shift' out of calibration since they probably produce a pulse from a fixed mark on each shaft. Therefore I accept the finding that the two shafts are out of phase, whether constantly or intermittently. It is out of the question for the chain to have jumped a tooth on a sprocket- even if this were possible it would show up as bad performance right away. That leaves insufficient tensioning as the cause, so the chain goes a bit slack and the cam shaft 'lags' a bit. We don't hear 'chain slap' but it must be occurring, and it is bad. I will probably insist that they only replace the tensioner, against their advice, though I usually take their advice regardless of cost. I would like to hear a more detailed explanation of this code P0341 from one of the experienced techs.

Hi , since you are a service person for Honda would you please let me know if 2006 Honda CRV fully loaded EX- LAWD special Edition has chain timing or belt ? Thanx

my honda crv 2005 stopped suddenly on motorway..without any warning..fortunately, I was on inside lane, and cruised on to lay by...timing chain had broken...affecting the fuel injectors..all of..which had to be replaced..and full engine dismantled....and cost over £1000, for parts alone, to replace..so much for honda reputation..will not consider in future ... posted 2012

The timing chain on my 2005 Honda CR-V has also broken. I have to replace the whole engine over $3,500 in damage. I won't be able to afford to fix it for a few weeks.

My 2002 CR-V jumped timing due to a faulty tensioner. I was told by a honda tech that the tensioners go every 150,000kms. I don't believe there was any chain slap. There might be a bent valve, but one thing at a time. I will replace the tensioner, retime the engine, crank it over by hand and see if I have anything hitting. If not, then I will do a compression test. If no compression, then I will pull the head, replace the bent valves myself. If the valve guides are bent, then I will send the head into a machine shop to have them service it. I will then re-install the head (with a new head gasket) and new tensioner, time the engine and it should run like new. I won't replace the water pump as I've been told by various tech's that they'll run 250,000kms.

I have had multiple problems with the timing chain on the 204 Honda Accord 2.4L 4 cylinder. Mine jumped time at just under 100k miles and was replaced by the dealer at no cost. My daughter has the exact car and hers went at 135,000 miles and the engine died while running. I was told that it probably bent the valves and would need a new engine. I replaced the chain, guides and tensor for $250 and installed myself. Car runs great now. Back to my car, at 155,000 miles the check engine light with the P0341 code came back on. The dealer said this is unusual and would only happen if I didn't change the oil often enough. I change three times a year and probably put 10K a year on the car (Im retired). There is a good article from Honda Tunning magazine (link http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_1005_honda_k_series_tensioner/viewall.html) describing the chronic failing of the tensor in this Honda engine resulting in this failure. Very disappointed in Honda for not recalling the cars with this engine.

It's a known issue. I have a 2006 CRV EX and I had to replace the timing chain and tensioner. What happens is that oxidized oil builds up in a critical oil orifice in the tensioner and begins to close it off. The chain is lubricated by pressurized oil coming from this orifice. After a time, the chain starts to wear out, stretches, and you get the timing mismatch code or worse - catastrophic failures. I could have avoided this if I had USED GOOD SYNTH OIL AND CHANGED IT EVERY 5,000 miles. Also, these engines tend to burn oil, so make sure you keep the level up. At oil change time, I usually have already topped it off several times adding up to about 3 quarts! Now I've got the torque converter shudder...LOL!

I have a Honda CRV 2002 with an engine that needs replacing (due to streached cam belt, and bent valves etc) Does any one know of any problems of putting a 2006 engine in? Apparently they are the same.

The 2006 engine is identical to the 2002 engine. The only thing that is different is the "intake manifold", but the "exhaust manifold" is the same. Just keep the old engine for the "intake". FYI: The wiring harnesses from an automatic CRV to a standard transmission CRV in this era are different just so you are aware. If you are buying an engine with atleast 100,000 miles/kms on it, I highly recommend you change out the "timing chain tensioner" and the "thermostat". The tensioners are known to fail at about 135,000miles/kms. I would also make sure to use a quality oil (it doesn't have to be synethic) in your new engine and monitor oil levels--always keep it full and change every 4000-5000miles. If oil levels ever go below 1-litre, the tensioners have been known to fail; this is what happened to us. All Honda engines are known to use a little oil between fill-ups. If you're getting the engine from an auto-wrecker and you don't know the history of it, I would change the oil after the first 2000-3000miles just to flush it out and keep the engine clean, then resume to 4000-5000miles/kms oil changes. If the valves seem a little chatty I would also add in 1-cup of transmission oil into the motor oil to clean the engine/valves; this is a common trick of mechanics.

Thank you, have purchased the 2006 engine, now to freight it 2000KM!

2006 engine is installed, plus gear box. but gears wont go into reverse or shift up... any ideas?

I have a 2006 Honda CR-V at ONLY 76,000 MILES I have to replace a timing chain. Are you kidding me?? 76,000 MILES. I have had regular oil changes. I have done nothing wrong. These "dependable" car has been a pain in my ass. Done with Honda. I cannot believe I have not even eclipsed 100,000 miles and my timing is bad. Poor manufacturing.

If its just the chain, we got one off ebay brand new original Honda for AU$100 or less. Initially we thought that would fix the problem with my Honda, but alas it had done great damage already. I hope yours gets fixed with less hassle than mine!!

honda engines are great if you take care of them I have 391k miles on my 2000 honday accord v6 and I am going for my 4th timing belt replacement when it hit 400k all you have to do is replace the oil every 3 to 5k miles depending on your driving habits if you drive it in traffic like I do then you replace it after 3k and always use a good oil i use mobile one oils they are the best

I just picked up my 2005 CRV from the engine rebuilder. At 181,000 the timing chain had stretched enough to jump and it ate 3 intake valves. rebuild including r&r was about $2,300. This may be my last Honda. When I bought it new I thought it was great that it had a timing chain, not a belt.

honda 2005 runs forever,dont know what everyone is on about?

have just bought a 2005 gee hope the timing chain is ok how do you check it please

I am in 'squeaky bum' mode at the moment as I have to have a cam chain and tensioner fitted to my 2005 crv diesel. My local honda garage wanted £1680 inc vat, but managed to get 'mates rates' at my local garage using genuine Honda parts which are astronomically priced. The car has done 140k miles and is rattling like a pot full of marbles. Despite protests from both Honda and my local garage not to use the car at all until the chain is replaced, I do not have any other choice than to use it, albeit very gingerly, until I go on a well deserved holiday and the car goes in for an equally deserved cam chain set in two weeks time. Lets hope the car makes it without the dreaded 'snap'!!!

Chains don't stretch, they wear. Belts can stretch but the links of the chains wear.

Chains do stretch, I have had it proven to me. The holes in the links for the pins wear and get bigger and that's all it takes. Even though the links themselves, hardened steel will stretch a miniscule amount. My Ford 390 has a pushrod engine and two chains, a double roller chain and the plastic/nylon gears.— made of that material for quiet broke a cog. So I decided to put new chains on at the time and the new ones were fully ¼ shorter than the old ones.

FordNut, the length of chains increase with wear because, as you say, the holes in the links wear and become larger. That's not stretching as the individual components of the chain don't increase in length, it's just wear. That's what I ment when I said chains don't stretch.

Thank you Fordnut, I did manage to last another two weeks before I had the complete chain set fitted by my usual garage. And boy, had it worn and stretched!! So much so that the chain tensioner could not open any further! I can't believe the difference.... my old tub sounds like brand new, and although it cost me £1200 (using genuine Honda parts), it was a far better deal than Honda's £1800 quote. People thought I was nuts spending that amount on a car with 140k on the clock, but I couldn't have bought another Honda for that amount of money, and the old girl does everything I ask of her; whether its delivering goods, stacking drums and amps for gigs, loading 2 bikes for days out, filling it up with wood for my log burner, as well as pulling a trailer tent up and down the country, not to mention driving around Europe with a huge box on the roof.... one does get attached, and I think it was worth every penny. There is a story on the grapevine that when Honda brought out the CRV diesel Mark 2, they put the contract out for the manufacture of the cam chains to a third party, and it wasn't long before Honda realized that some of them were not up to scratch and punters were complaining. Honda had a recall put in place for cars up to seven years old to have the cam chain replaced. Even though my Honda was second-hand and was within that timeframe I never received any info from Honda about it. Thay obviously knew where I lived because I have had two or three recalls for minor things since then. Not sure how true the story is, and if it is, perhaps they were very coy as to who they were going to recall as they didnt really want to splash out! Anyway, all is well, and I am very happy tootling around the country at 40+ mpg and I foresee our relationship reaching 200k with the utmost ease..... after have had the clutch changed that is!!!!!! Any one thinking about buying a second-hand CRV should have no worries as they are built like a tank, but if the engine sounds like its slap- happy it may pay to look at another one. Cheers everyone!

Fair enough Alan. Makes sense.

Pajo, when you use the £ sign leads me believe your in Great Britain, I know of no other Country that uses that, (Please correct me it I am wrong) and your Honda is the second-best car in it's class and will take you far beyond 200k with proper care. Please forgive my 'second-best' remark. I am just biased, a Toyota guy. My son has an Accord with 195,000 on it and is having trouble with the power windows, but that's as serious as it gets on his car. And a diesel will do even better (usually). Good day to you guys

We have a 2002 and replaced the timing chain as Honda suggested (a cool $1300). We had never had to replace oil between oil changes every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. Now, suddenly after our timing belt change, we're losing oil like crazy; 1.25 quarts every 400 miles or so and Honda can't tell us the reason. We've been back three times to their repair shop and they don't know the reason. No oil under the engine, no burnt oil particles in the tailpipe. No one know what the fnck is going on. As a preferred Honda driver for years I am terribly unhappy and unimpressed by this whole ordeal. The Honda CRV timing chain and tension system if horribly flawed and should be recalled by Honda. I would not recommend a Honda CRV to anyone.

The shop who replaced the chain obviously missed something! I suggest you NEVER allow your oil level to go any lower than half a litre. The tensioner system in Honda CRV's require strong oil pressure which is determined by the oil level. Failing to keep the oil level at the top will/can cause the tensioner to fail, then the chain to skip a tooth, then your engine will go out of timing and this will cause a bent valve. I am speaking from experience. As for the oil usage, it could be that replacing the PCV valve or spark plugs will clean it up. That said, I have seen various honda and other car companies engines using a litre of oil every 1000kms/miles - even new cars. What a person pays for in oil in their Honda, they may save in repairs in another car that breaks down more frequently. All I can say is always stay on top of regular oil changes in the CRV's, use a good quality oil, never allow the oil level to drop, change the tensioner every 100,000 to 125,000kms/miles as well as their know to fail. The first two years of the CRV's had more issues with the chain and tensioner, but improvements were made in 2004. Recommend getting a 2004 or newer CRV, or immediately change the oil and tensioner if you buy a 2002 or 2003 model.

Why wouldn't Honda recall these regularly faulty tensioners? Why doesn't Honda know the answer to my oil burning CRV? DO they not want to admit their fault in overcompensating with a timing chain + tensioner replacement when a simple solution to my earlier problem could have sufficed? I am not sure where to go from here and neither is the Honda service center from whence I am returning every few weeks. What might you suggest? http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-crosstour-2003-current- 118/problem-solution-oil-consumption-problems-2003-2007-honda- accords-2963428/

The contact information for both Japan Honda and American Honda Addresses to submit your complaints to Honda Motor Company Ltd. 8-1 Hon-Cho, Wako-City, Saitama 351-0188 JAPAN (048) 452-1000 Mr. Cheiko Sakamoto Parts, Sales and Service Divison American Honda Motor Co., Inc. Honda Automobile Customer Service Torrance, CA 90501-2746 Mail Stop: 500 - 2N - 7D President: **** Colliver 1-800-999-1009

Psst, I've got a secret for you. ....when it's time to replace your timing chain, it's time for a new car! Now you'll find out why it was better to have the timing belt, which is much easier to replace. And because there's a regular interval for changing the timing belt, you'll know that there's no chance that you'll blow up your engine. I was very surprised to see how many people had timing belt failures with the Honda CRV. Unpleasant surprise and poor design, shame on Honda.

My Sister has a 2006 crv top of the line with 130000 ... timing belt went and say the repairs are more than the value of the car. they are willing to give her $1500 to buy it from her... is this a good deal?

Hi Charles, I think sztyler has answered you comprehensively, and I agree with him entirely. Of course, if you fancy a change of car all you have to do is take their miserly offer, add loads of cash to the offer and then find another car. Danger is you could end up with a right 'lemon' and then you'll be right back where you started! Basically, I decided to change the cam chain because I love my Honda; it does everything I ask of it, throw wood and logs for our wood burner, my drum set and the PA system, bicycles, all my tools, and despite touring around UK and Europe have never run out of luggage space, (but to be sure we added a roof box!) and with having a tow bar fitted I have a trailer for bigger jobs, and have a trailer tent for long weekends away. Even though it had completed 140000+ miles, I decided to change the timing chain and tensioner because I would rather have 'the devil I know'..... if there any minor problems with it, at least I know and can choose to rectify them at my leisure. Lets face it, nothing lasts for ever, and reaching 140000+ miles without any major problems is no mean feat! Believe it or not, I am still using the original clutch! And when I did decide to get the cam chain changed, fearing that I was going to lunch the engine at any moment, it was still returning 42mpg on a good run. Remarkable! Now it runs as quiet as a mouse. Another thing is: if you accept that miserly offer, the garage will then proceed to repair the car and sell it on at a sizeable profit. So you might as well get it repaired instead. It's your call really.... how much do you really love your CRV?

As I've had the timing belt changed in my Honda along with the Solenoid Valve and the VTC Oil Control Valve, my 2002 is still running like crap; there is a sluggish response to stepping on the gas pedal (misfiring?). I've brought it back to the Honda dealer three times (who originally put in the new timing chain) and they cannot provide me with an answer as to why my car is not running correctly; it eats oil (about 1.5 quart every 500 miles and gas mileage per gallon has dropped). The Honda shop has given us a loner car each time, but they say they cannot locate a problem. When I step on the gas slightly going uphill, the engine slips into low gear revs up, misfires and the engine light flashes on and off, then stops once I let off the gas. Any suggestions???

EDIT: the flashing light stops when I let off the gas while going uphill and the car continues to drive normally. Basically, it the engine goes above a certain RPM (especially when going up a hill, putting extra stress on the motor), the engine light flashes on and off, the car missfires and loses power.

If you have a flashing check engine light this is a good thing to help you diagnose the issue. I would suggest hooking up a good OBD Computer (professional grade $15,000-$20,000 unit) to your car and go for a drive up some hills so it can read the codes from the flashing light. This will tell them alot about what is going on. This will also tell you whether it is an ignition or fuel problem. Failing this, I can suggest a variety of things to try one by one to rule out the issue. Give this list to your Honda Dealer to check and make sure they don't charge you since this has been an ongoing issue for you. First...check the battery output, alternator charging and wiring to both these items. Check to see if you have a clogged fuel filter or even add some sea-foam to your gas to clean your injection system. See if you have a clogged EGR or PCV? Test the resistance in a few key sensors and items on your engine: camshaft positioning sensor and all 4 coil packs, etc. Then either look up online what the normal resistance is or go to a parts supplier with your Multi- Meter and test the resistance in the new sensors, coil packs, etc.. Check your spark plugs to see what color they are or if you have a dead plug. I've had a new plug go dead after one month which caused the car to run poorly then the engine light went on and off. I replaced the dead plug and voila--all good. Try swapping in a new computer into your CRV - they take no time to swap in. An auto wrecker may allow you to borrow one. When honda replaced your timing chain, if they didn't disconnect your positive battery terminal when doing the repair, they may have somehow shorted something out in the wiring/ignition system of your CRV. Only a good wiring expert would be able to locate and diagnose such an issue, if this in fact is the issue?? Call a Honda Dealer in another city, state or country to see what they have to say? You also mentioned the engine misfires? Does the engine Ping when it misfires? If so, this could be due to a clogged oil pick-up in the oil pan and is quickly resolved by removing the oil pan and cleaning out the oil pick-up with air or water, drying it off and re-installing it. Try one item at a time to see what the issue could be. Start by having Honda hook up their OBD computer to your CRV and taking it up a hill to get the codes to flash then go from there. Do keep us posted.

So, if it ends up that there is more damage than I expected once I get the head off (i.e. damaged pistons), then I will simply buy a used engine from an auto-wrecker with low kms and install a new tensioner $100, water pump $100, plus cam and crank seals $30. Used engine with 150,000kms costs about $500-700. I found a shop that will install it for $600-700, plus $100 for fluids. This route will run me $1600 at most. The option above will run me about $200 doing the work myself...to be continued!

i have a 2005 honda crv ex with 136,000 miles i was told the chains last along time and wont have to be replaced but later on my it wouldnt start it got it check and was told that the chain had skipped and took it to get fixed to find out (the cyclinders or rods not sure) had bent so im lookin to get a new motor or rebuilt mine but min. cost of atleast 1,600 bucks also that it had very low oil in it even thou i had gotten the oil change a month ago and i kno alot of you have had the same problem with this car some of u had been stranded on the road and thats somethin i can risk because i have my 6 month with me at all time im hoping honda does somethin to fix this cuz i love hondas i grew up driving them hope they do if not they will lose alot of customers if there is any recalls for the timing chain plz inform me at the moment i am stuck take my bby to his appointments on a bus if not taxi

Gilbert, I brought my car to a large Honda dealership in Albany NY and had the timing chain and tensioner replaced for 1300.00. The car still had issues. After five months of going back and forth to them to evaluate and diagnose the new problems (burning oil, not idling, loss of ower and loss of fuel economy), they could not locate the problem. On the fourth time back to them I asked if they could perform a compression test. When I picked the car up a few days later, their recommendation was to "replace the motor" for $3500.00. What a joke! I took the car to a very highly recommended mechanic in my hometown of Kingston NY, he charged me $650.00 to replace three ignition coils and to extensively clean the fuel injector (which was extremely gummed up); the car has been running fine ever since. Honda dealership mechanics' reputations have been forever ruined for me. If you want the name of the mechanic in my hometown, just ask.

I am at disbelief because I have a 2006 Honda CR-V and I just reached 100,00 miles and all of a sudden the timing chain has shifted. Now the Honda dealer is telling me that it is going to cost $1300 to fix and replace it. I was told that these vehicles were built to last and I wish I had read these online reports before I purchased my vehicle because others are having the same exact problem.

I wouldn't say this is a good deal at all, unless her CRV is rusted, banged up, needs $5000 in body work, needs tires, brakes, the interior is haggled. If her car is a nice clean CRV then it will be 100% to your advantage to keep it and repair it how I suggest and here's why... The market value of this a 2006 CRV on craigslist is still $8500-$10,000. In 2002 Honda changed the motors in their CRV and now they all come with a timing chain and not a belt. If the shop you're dealing with said you have a belt failure, then pay the $50 tow fee and get a second opinion, cause it definitely has a chain and not a belt. The chain is suppose to be good for the life of the car. If the chain failed it was likely due to a fail in the tensioner which then created slack in the chain, which then put the CRV out of timing and then a piston hit a valve or two--thus causing your issue. This from what you've read above is one of Honda's problems with this new era of CRV's and should have been a recall, but they never did. So yes, rebuilding this motor is alot of time and effort if you don't know what you are doing or if you are relying on a shop to do it. A shop could charge you $3000-4000 to rebuild this motor as it's alot of work. BUT, what I would recommend and this is exactly what I did is, call an auto- wrecker and buy a good used low mileage motor from a 2004-2006 CRV and have it installed. The auto wrecker will tell you how many miles are on the motor you are buying and they are accurate. A motor will run you about $500-$700 and the installation will run you about $550-650. You will need to shop around for a wrecker who will sell at this price and a garage that will install for this price--make 5-7 calls to each place and you'll find what you need. Call auto-wreckers and garages on the other side of city as well, as prices will vary from one end of the city to the next by more than 50%!!! A big shop will want more for the install, while a smaller shop or a home based mechanic will do it for these prices I'm mentioning. When dealing with auto wreckers, you have to always use my favorite line "can you do any better on the price than that" as they'll always quote you higher initially? They'll almost always drop the price by 20-30%, if not just ask them if they'll let the motor go for $600 or whatever price you want to pay. An auto wrecker will also give you a 3-6 month warranty on the motor and the motor they are installing into your CRV is one that came out of a CRV that was hit in an accident but the engine was unharmed--so a perfect running engine with warranty. This is all a shop is going to do if you sell them your sisters CRV. The one thing I recommend you do with that new engine is buy a new tensioner from Honda $125 and have it installed into that engine before they install the engine into your CRV. It's easier to install the tensioner while the new motor is out of the CRV. The tensioner as I mentioned earlier are known to as earlier as 130,000miles. That said, I've seen some CRV's with 300,000kms and on the original tensioner. The tensioner is one of those things that should be replaced in these CRV's every 100,000kms/miles although Honda does not recommend it and few mechanics know this, but doing so prevents issues like the one your sister is experiencing. I know this information first hand in speaking with several Honda Technicians who now recommend this after seeing people with issues like your sisters. And I am speaking from first hand experience as I also had the same problem as your sister and resolved it the exact same was as I mentioned above with a good used engine and new tensioner and my CRV is running strong for two years now with no issues. So when the dust settles, you will have paid about $1500 at the very most and your sister's CRV will be up and running and will be every bit as reliable as before if not more reliable with the new tensioner. The new tensioner is a must. Also make sure to check the motor oil every 4- 5th fill up. It is normal for many engines out there to use a little oil between oil changes. If the oil level starts to drop below the "LINE", just top it up to the line--but never over. The tensioners in the CRV's run on oil pressure which is why the oil level needs to be perfect. If the oil level drops to a half to one litre/quart below the mark for a few weeks, don't panic, just top it up. I recommend keeping the oil level perfect and changing it every 4000-5000 for preventative maintenance and to avoid any future issues. And make sure to use a quality oil like Quaker state. Never use a cheap or recycled oil as this is what can cause tensioners to fail. Even if you repaired your sisters CRV at $1500 and sold it for $9000, you'll still be ahead of the game and this is what I would personally recommend. But if you're going to add a new motor from an auto wrecker and a new tensioner, then I would definitely keep the car as it will be as reliable as ever. Good luck!

I have 2006 Honda CR-V SE AWD with 100,000 miles on it, I believe it's timing chain , don't have any problem now do I have to replace timing chain? what are the other things I have to check so in future I won't have big problems is there any one Honda Tech here?

I have 217,000 on my 04 CRV. Original timing chain and tensioner. Chain must be a bit worn now, as engine is noisy, almost sounds diesel like. Car pretty worn out otherwise. Should get newer car, but it just keeps runing.

I would like to know where others have got theirs fixed as my local garage has quoted twice the price everyone here has mentioned and I can't find anyone who will replace the timing chain for cheaper. That said I have also had conflicting reports as to what needs doing from the local garage and Honda dealer .

Hi tr80, Just replied to your message about your garage quote. Think you're being fleeced!!

1500 kms (kilometers) = 1000 miles. So please use miles because "kms/miles" is meaningless. My 2006 Honda CRV EX AWD, which I bought, had 116,000 miles on it when I bought it. It looked like a good deal for $8000 (in Apr 2015). However, the timing was off by 30 degrees, the timing chain had jumped 3 sprocket holes, had been stretched, etc. My mechanic ordered a new timing chain kit from Honda, and said Honda is using better metal now, but didn't say anything about the tensioner. The Honda also needed new control arms and bushings on the front, new brakes and rotors, and other things. Bottom line ... if you don't keep up with the maintenance schedule, you are asking for trouble. Even then, the tensioner problem seems to be a Honda defect according to the above mentioned article.

Even if you don't have a problem, the resale value of these cars just dropped considerably in my mind. See this link, http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/htup-1005-honda-k- series-tensioner/

Correction: my mechanic got the timing kit from Napa, made by Altrom, and supposed to be better than the Honda one.

My 2004 CR-V has 290.000 kms (180.000 miles) on it. In 2011 a new chain was installed. The check engine light is on again since a year: code is PO341. So this replacement chain has stretched again. Besides that, my camshaft has pitting. It's not worth repairing since the costs of repair are much higher than the value of the car. So some of these day we'll go our own way an my old CR-V will end up in Africa. There is a high demand there of old Honda's, broken or not. I hope it lasts until I can test drive the new HR-V (in the Netherlands)

Ventus, WOW! you replaced the timing chain in 2011 and now it's stretched AGAIN?? How much did it cost you to get that new timing chain installed the first time?

I think I paid appr. 1.500 Euro for this repair. Since a few days the car starts bad and sounds bad for a few seconds. Sometimes it stalls. Once the engine is running it sounds ok. I often pull a trailer but i notice a lack of power. It needs a new engine. So I sold it yesterday since there are more problems, ingnition lock, suspension and so on. Is this the end of this car? No, because my CR-V will have a second life somewhere in Africa :-)

Ventus -good call, when your car fails to meet your expectations, it's time for a new car. I had a 95 Honda Accord that I used to tow my teardrop trailer and it got tired and was too low to the ground to tow, so, I had to sell it. I think you made a wise and prudent decision. Sometimes, it is time to say goodbye. Don't know how heavy your trailer was, but, it was probably less than 1,500 pounds?

Max tow weight of my CR-V was 3300 pounds. In average the weight of my trailer was 2000-2500 pounds. Never had any problems towing a trailer. The car still has its first clutch after 180.000 miles! Next car will be a Honda Accord, on of the last because Honda stopt selling the Accord in Europe.

I have a 2004 CRV with 150,000 miles. I change oil/filter every 5,ooo miles. 2X I have run GUNK Engine cleaner at the oil change. The engine is quite, starts instantly. I change 4 qts of automatic transmission fluid every 30,000. The vehicle is rust free, never in an accident, and if a serious mechanical problem were to occur I would replace both the engine and transmission and hope for another 150,000 miles of trouble free driving.

Well can someone tell me what year did the crv stop using timing belts and go to a timing chain and since I'm going to be buying one which one should I be looking for belt or chain or does it matter I've always heard the chains are better than belts can anybody tell me anything

I have a 2004 Honda CRV with 150,000 miles and a timing chain. The secret is using synthetic oil and change every 5,000 miles. This insures adequate lubrication of chain and tensioner. Prior to 2002 they used belts, and needed an expensive replacement every 100,000 miles.

Ventus, so, you have a 2004 Honda CRV and towed 2500 pounds, and you thought that the maximum tow capacity is 3,300 pounds? How did you know that? Take a look at this website from Edmunds, they list the maximum tow capacity at 1,500. Can you please explain this ? http://www.edmunds.com/honda/cr- v/2004/suv/features-specs/

Mark1952. My CR-V had a 2.0 ltr petrol engine and stick shift. In the Netherlands the maximum tow capacity was 1500 kg (=3300 pounds). This tow capacity is listed in the cars specifications and on also the cars registration. I just bought a 2012 model Honda Accord Tourer (similar to the Acura TSX Sport Wagon) and this car also has a towing capacity of 3300 lbs. The CR-V model 2015 has a towing capacity of 3300 lbs (automatic transmission) and 3750 lbs (stick shift) in Europe.

I see, well, apparently standards in the USA are more conservative than Europe. In the USA, the maximum tow capacity of your vehicle is 1,500 pounds. I'm not sure how there can be such a vast discrepancy like this, do you have any thoughts on this?

For the maximum towing capacity listed above the trailer needs to have an overrun brake. If the trailer doesn't have brakes at all, towing capacity is only 600 kg (1322 lbs) In the cars specifications always 2 towing cap. are listed: one for trailers with overrun brakes and one for trailers without brakes. Maybe that explains the difference.

Ventus, I found this online, interesting reading, http://oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-down-1609112611

Most salient point in the article, "Bottom line - Can a tow vehicle pull a heavier trailer there than is rated for here in the US? Yes, with some provisions: 1. The closer the trailer weight gets to the vehicle weight the slower you will need to drive. 2. DO NOT exceed 65 mph with a tongue weight in the 4- 7% range, this is a guaranteed way to sway and 65 is the max, go slower in regards to #1. 3. None of this takes into account crosswinds, cooling systems, hp, or braking effectiveness. Moral of the story: Europeans! Be proud that you can pull that huge caravan with your tiny car. Americans! Be proud you can pull more weight in total and with a greater degree of safety and at higher speeds than our Euro friends. Note: DON'T assume for one second, Americans, that you can simply use Europe as a guide to towing above your limit, its not going to be safe at our speeds DON'T put me and my family in danger or embarrass us in front of the other countries.

Further thoughts- don't exceed trailer tow capacity weights in the USA, your insurance company will disown you and run for the hills leaving you responsible for everything. Not worth it.

Interesting article. We are allowed to drive 56 mph with a trailer in the Netherlands. However in France you are allowed to drive 80 mph on freeways... Tong weight on my CR-V was 75 kgs. max.

Ventus, it varies state to state in the USA. For example, my home state of California, has a speed limit of 55 mph for all trailers. Other states, its the posted speed limit. It is definitely safer to be at the lower speed and saves fuel as well. My Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 Four with CVT transmission pulls my teardrop trailer that weighs just under 1,000 pounds fully loaded and gets 21 mpg. It's very aerodynamic and my Subaru Outback Limited has a rated towing capacity of 2,700 pounds for the USA. I'm sure that in Europe, the Subaru has a much higher tow capacity.

I have a 2014 and have the rattle. Started shortly after t bought the car (new) Has 68,000 now and Honda still has no answers. They told me they were coming out with a change this month. Will see and post if this happens. I am a Amsoil dealer and this car has Amsoil since new.

Edward- wow! This is disgraceful and shame on Honda. They're running their reputation as a good car company with stuff like this. So, you have a 2014 and a timing chain problem at 68,000 miles?? When you say a change this month, you're talking about the newer models. What are they going to do for you?? If I were you, I would pressure them to replace this at cost or no charge with a reduced labor rate for public relations reasons. The timing chain , not belt, should last the life of the car and for it to fail at this mileage is unconscionable. Question, what mileage exactly did you notice the rattle and did you think about taking it to them earlier??

The service mgr. said they would fix as soon as they come up with a fix. In the mean time there is nothing they can do. I actually paid them to pull starter to check for bendix damage as they would admit to no ongoing problems, also paid for new serpentine belt as they said it was stretched and next paid for serpentine idler replace as they thought that was the problem. The sound is like the bendix is dragging on flywheel on disengagement. Its still there.

Edward, well, thanks for bringing this up, for now, I'm NOT going to recommend Honda cars to anyone!

I've been reading these postings about the timing chain debacle from the beginning as I have a 2005 CR-V since new with only 189,000 miles! I bought it with the intentions of it being my last car (I'm close to 70) but now reading this! I still have the original chain etc and finally broke down and spent $1,100 on brakes, rotors & tie rod ends. That was the most I ever spent second to tires! Never trusted the stealer(oops dealer) as they kept saying I needed ball joints, struts all around and some compliance bushing in the rear. Firestone said about the tie rod ends but bj and rear appeared ok. Who to believe? I realize bj and struts will have to be replaced due to miles, though. Anyway, I love this car BUT I am not married to it and maybe get out when the car is running 'fine'. Uses no oil between my changing between 5-10,000 miles using synthetic. No sludge yet. If I do the chain replacement, how long should it take and would I need Honda special tools? Btw, I keep forgetting things and I can see me finishing up and noticing I forgot to install something like the water pump then taking all apart again. Mmmm extra bolts? Advice?

Hi Tony, in my experience the issue with the tensioners failing and thus stretching the chain happened mostly in the 2002 to 2003 model CRV`s and alot less in the 04-06 models. Make sure to keep an eye on the oil level and keep the level perfect and change it every 5000kms. Use the oil that Honda recommends - non-synthetic I believe. If as a precaution you want to change the tensioner and chain, shop around now as you can get a chain and tensioner kit reasonably priced. The job is not hard to do yourself if you`re mechanically inclined. If you`re going to use a mechanics shop, once again, shop around. I see some people on here spending $1300 to get this job done and I think you can find a smaller shop or honda mechanics with home shops to do it for less than half the cost. Doing the job at this point will mainly be for prevention. The timing chain model is suppose to be for the life of the CRV. I`ve seen some of these CRV`s hit 300,000 miles with no issues. That said, I`ve talked to Honda Technicians off the record who suggested that for prevention and maintenance to just replace the tensioner every 80,000miles. There is a side door on the side of the timing chain cover where you can remove just the tensioner itself in about an hour. You`ll need to look up the procedure to set the timing to ensure success with the RE & RE if you`re doing it yourself. The Honda Tech also voiced to me that the tensioners do fail on occassion and by replacing the tensioner it keeps the chain in check. And my understanding from them is that, as long as the chain tension is good, then all is good. It is only when the tensioner fails or begins to fail that you get slack in the chain which then causes the chain to `slap` or pull which then causes the stretching. All this said, if you speak with Honda, they may suggest that if you`re doing the job that you should just put in an entire tensioner and chain kit. I would ask them for their opinion. BTW: The water pump is external, so you don`t have to worry about that forgetting to install that. It`s a straight forward job if you do the entire chain & tensioner kit yourself. All this said, if you keep driving your CRV you may not ever have any issues with it for the rest of it`s life. But if the tensioner ever fails unexpectedly it will cause slack in the chain and the motor will jump timing and you will bend a valve or two. At this point you`ll need a replacement engine or you`ll need to remove the head and rebuild it, then reinstall a new tensioner and chain kit. If you ever put in a used engine, I recommend changing the tensioner foresure, then install the engine. There you have both sides of the coin.

Thanks sztyler, there is a lot of info you gave and is appreciated. When spring is upon us I am, with my wife's permission! to at least replace the tensioner as you described above. Perhaps I will be able to evaluate how much slap the chain has. I used to be an avid cyclest so I know that the term chain stretching is a misnomer as the chain links wear a few thousand each and total up. I used to think the chain wheel was worn until I put the 2chains side by side. What a difference, I would assume the timing will be off eventually!

I have a 2005 crv diesel and like a lot of people on this forum, the chain went on it last night, 200 miles from home! Engine has only done 91000 miles. I've had nothing but trouble from this car since I bought it a year ago. Both inner cv joints went. These cost £300 each from Honda and it took a lot of searching to find after market one's cheaper. Most internal electrics have gone and now the chain. Honda's are just money pits. No more reliable than other cars judging by all the forums I have looked at, and 3 times more expensive to fix. I won't be buying Honda again. Worst car I've ever had.

I have 2012 Honda CR-V at 45000 km i have to replace my timing chain and tensioner, unbelievable.

I have a 2002 CR-V Honda with 183,000 miles. It still runs great but now it idles a little fast. The fuel injectors have never been clean and Honda dealers here in San Antonio Tx never suggest until my last oil change. I am going to have it done and also let them check my ignition coils like glengus 23 did. Maybe i'll get lucky. No problem with timing chain and when I ask Honda dealer about the chain , they all seem lost.

i have a 2002 Honda CR-V . 2.0L do you know it has timing belts or chain?

I had a 1995 Honda Accord EX Wagon, GREAT car.... Unfortunately, reading all these posts here and elsewhere gives me great pause about considering Honda in the future.... It doesn't seem to be the car company I used to know, VERY SAD...

please.. i have 2003 model crv, the timing chain jump .please comment what cause? thank you..

To Shalva: All 2002 and newer CRV's have timing chains. To Mark W1952: All car companies have their problems--I mean ALL of them. Honda's first couple of years with the new timing chain and oil pressure tensioner could have been a better designed. To Talibali: the chain jumps timing due to a failed 'tensioner' which is run on oil pressure; which can be caused by not changing your oil every 4000miles, or if the oil level goes down 1-2litres, or sometimes it fails due to a design flaw in the early tensioners they installed. Re-read all my comments listed above as I go into the cause and the remedy in alot more detail.

My 2014 CRV that had the rattle almost since new, About 3 months ago called service rep. at dealer and said i was going to start calling starting with his boss and go right up the ladder, still told me there was nothing they could do. Aprox 5 min after I hung up he called back and told me he had found a modified new gear in the parts room and I should come in and have it changed. I did, However I took a trip to VA> and on the way back the noise started again. I am know the proud owner of a new Subaru Forrester. The only car I could find with no real problems on line. The CRV had 76,000 mi.. I drive a lot and could not take a chance on losing a motor on the road.

The above is a continuation of my earlier post,

Edward- brilliant....you got a 2017 or 2016 Forrester? Did you get the CVT transmission? I have a 2010 Subaru Outback with the CVT transmission and 2.5 Four, no major issues at all and just under 80k. Congratulations... Overall, I think Subaru's are pretty good cars.

sztyler---YES, I know many car manufacturers have issues, BUT, for someone to take their car to the dealership with a 2014 CR-V that was doing this from the time it was practically "new" is ridiculous. Not reassuring...

Have a 2016 with the CVT with going on 12,000. Love it.

Edward-. That's great... I've driven other cars with CVTs , but, I definitely think that Subaru is the best one... I tow a small teardrop trailer with my 2010 Subaru Outback and it works fine...My only suggestion is that you have the dealership change your CVT transmission fluid every 40 to 50,000 miles....it's preventive maintenance and in my opinion a very desirable thing to do.....I posted a picture of the car and trailer above..

Subarus are known for bad Head Gaskets and CVT's in any car are all very problematic when they reach 50-60,000miles--it's not if, but when you will have problems! I agree, that the cars with CVT transmissions are absolutely lovely to drive! But, the CVT transmissions are hugely problematic and have been since inception--no matter what car they are in (Suby, Toyota, Benz). You'll be lucky to get 60,000 miles out of the transmission before it craps out and you'll find yourself spending $5-6000 to have it repaired! Like I said every car manufacturer has their problems! Transmission shops are the only reputable source for honest transmission information as they deal with them day in and day out! Google CVT Transmission problems for more info.

sztyler- OK, I guess it depends on how they are taken care of and how they are driven, wouldn't you agree?? Hmm, let's see, I have a 2010 Subaru Outback 2.5 with the CVT and 79,000 miles. I personally know someone who had exactly my year and model car with the CVT and went 300,000 miles on the original transmission. He had a freak accident with his car and it was destroyed, and he and his wife walked away unscathed. Pretty impressive. Now, as for "new" CVT's are... you know, the design for the CVT transmission came from drawings and invention by Leonardo da Vinci... Bet you didn't know that? And, CVT's have been used in aviation, and other industrial applications for many years. YES, there are definitely different qualities of CVT's out there. I happen to think Subaru is one of the better ones. And, some car manufacturers like Nissan farm out their CVTs to an outside company like JATCO. Nissan extended the warranty for some of their cars to 10 years and 120,000 miles. Finally, yes, head gaskets, Subaru has two of them with the iconic "Boxer engines", and yes, they have had past problems, but, the new multi layered head gaskets they re- designed in 2010 has pretty much eliminated that. Here are some links below for you; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission http://8w.forix.com/altpower-intro.html http://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/062007_10.pdf

Thanks for the info. I was concerned about the CVT also. Mine has a few odd happenings and I have them documented with the dealer so hopefully if any future problems pop up they will cover. I am an Amsoil dealer but cant use my products till after warranty expires as they require their own products which are Japanese synthetics.

Edward - you're welcome. Just curious, what are these few odd things that are occuring? Yes, document everything, and Subaru of America is a great resource.

Lite surging on acceleration at low speeds and excessive reving when accelerating at high speeds, 60 to 75 range. Getting excellent gas mileage, 31-34.

180k on my 2006 crv. P0314 engine code intermittent. Timing chain jumped. Bent all valves. $2800 repair. Very disappointed. Disgusted. My 1990 honda accors in the driveway still hus along. Too funny. If you buy honda, go for pre-2002 models that we well cared for. I had a 93 accord as well. Still ran when I scrapped for 200 bucks. 250k miles on it. Just amazed how badly they engineered the new motors. Bunch of @$$Clowns.

Ugh typos abound in my previous post. My 1990 accord runs like a top. No issues. Paid 1700. My 2006 CRV is a money pit

I loved my 2006 CRV until today. I just had my 2012 CRV in this weekend and was told the timing chain was off and it cost me $1200.00. My 2006 CRV just died while my son was driving it and I had it towed to the dealership. Guess what is wrong with it? The timing chain. What a joke. Honda you just lost yourself another customer.

Honda built their stellar reputation in the 90s.... Unfortunately, things went sideways as corporate greed set in... I had two Honda's in a row starting in the 80s. And, I had numerous friends who swore by these cars. It's not the car company I used to know... I'm​ not sure anymore about recommending all their models. I would say that only the Honda Accord and Honda Civic are still decent cars... The rest of the line is just so so. I generally look for a car that has had the same nameplate for a number of years. The Honda Accord was introduced in 1976, that's 41 years ago.... YES, there's been problems with certain years, 2001-2008, shame on them, but, any car that's been the flagship for more​ than 40 years deserves serious consideration. Models that are frequently changed out, like Chyrsler models (which are primarily junk), are not going to hold up well over time. If you really want a car with great reputation, then choose a Lexus, they are probably the best engineered production car in the world. As much as I love my Subaru Outback and it's a fine car, nothing beats a Lexus.

I just had to replace my timing chain, tensioner, guide, and the VTC actuator on my 2013 CR-V with 100,000 miles. Should never have to replace a timing chain. Fought with Honda on this, and my experience was so bad that I will never buy another Honda. Dealer wanted $1300. Did it myself for about $400, including some new tools.

I agree with you this should have never happened.... Honda's reputation is slipping, how sad.

My 2006 Honda CRV tensioner went, 162,000 miles. The Timing belt stretched. It was $1200 to get the belt and tensioner replaced. Then the mechanic whom I trust said the valves were messed up $2300 more. Cam guides were also messed up - ERRRRRR - I ended up selling the car to the mechanic for $500 (I DIDN'T HAVE TO PAY FOR REPAIRS) I had the car 10 years loved it, used blended synthetic regularly. Alas, alas...

I am not even sure I am posting this in the correct spot) I have a 2007 CRV with 273,000 miles on it. I am thinking of going the new used car route again because I told it was going to cost $3000 to fix the car. Starter, Timing chain skipped a couple of teeth and one of the cylinders is only working at 70%. I am thinking retiring my ole girl is the best idea - thoughts?

We had 275k on our 2003 t-chain engine. We just had to swap the engine to a low mileage 1 because of a head gasket failure. We were doing FULLY synthetic oil changes every 5k since we bought it ( 110k ) and NO, chains don't typically fail on this motor unless you are using a low grade oil, or ran it out of oil, overheated the engine? I have been in the WHOLESALE import auto parts industry since 1983. There is a reason we bought the CRV w/ a timing chain, they are pretty bullet proof. Best vehicle we've ever owned.

Hey Kerry- I would opt for the low mileage engine install. Prolly about 3k, but then you can go another 250k? Hopefully? Keep up on oil changes & tranny fluid changes. I'm guessing the vehicle has been pretty good to you other than that? The newer the car, the more bells & whistles that fail & are expensive to fix. $3000. spread out over the last 11 years would be less than $300 a year, $50 a month? Pretty low cost of ownership. BMW owners would KILL for those kinds of #'s hahaha.

Was seriously thinking of a 2002 cr-v sport,,,,,, but now after reading,,,don't think I'd touch one with a barge pole,,, even though our grandson is a head mechanic at a business and he does all the servicing etc on my 2003 Kia Rio and it's perfect,,, think I'll keep it !

WoW! glad I happened to find these posts BEFORE buying a Honda CR-V!!! bye, bye, Honda! you'd think a company with a great reputation and great products would do better....and where is the loyalty to their CUSTOMERS??? as I said, bye bye Honda!

2007 CRV with 75K mileage started showing VSA light several mo ago, as well as reduced acceleration on hills. Mechanic said timing chain was responsible, would eventually need to be replaced, but usually lasts 200K mileage. Car not starting in driveway this week after no signs of anything unusual (no noises), towed to mechanic. Says timing chain broke, caused damage, and now needs new engine - $4000. The 'P0314' code mentioned as indicative of timing chain failure never showed on the dashboard - does this story make sense? All maintenance done regularly.

We had similar issues with our 2002... awful awful engines. HONDA should've made a recall based on what I've seen as repeated problems; this has been supported by multiple mechanics I've worked with. The tensioner slips and wreaks havoc on the engine. I threw about $2000.00 at what were multiple problems, including a new timing chain by Honda, then three months after they did the work, they turned around and said I needed a new $3200.00 motor. Bad bad business. You're better off playing Russian roulette by getting yourself a used Accord (still great great cars... just stay away from 2008 - 2010 based on consumer reviews).

Thought I had a plan and now after reading all the above posts, think I need to verify what I think is the issue. 2005 CR-V burns about a quart of oil every 700 miles. There have been times, especially when we first bought it (used) that the oil was 2 quarts low. I've never in my 40 years of owning cars have I ever had one that used that much oil. So I was not staying on top of checking it as often as it needs. For the past several months three light come on when cold start: check engine, VSA, and one other. Then after it's warm, and turned off at the destination, when started only the check engine comes on. Code is the dreaded P0341. I took it to Honda hoping they would honor the recall for excessive oil burning, and between the oil consumption and the timing chain (I don't remember perfectly from temporarily going into shock), but I believe they stated I have a worn/stretched chain, said my best option was a new engine. In our case, the car is running pretty good; no power loss, easy starts, etc. Here's my thinking: Do the timing chain, tensioner, guides (everything that should be done with the chain replacement), and see if I can keep the engine lights from coming on, with the knowledge that oil level is key. Then if that goes smoothly and the light stay off for a few months, I would see about doing a ring job to fix the oil consumption issue. After reading the posts, it seems like folks had almost worse problems after they change out the timing chain? So, is it worth doing? If so, is the Honda timing chain kit recommended, or is there a better one? Thanks! Robert

I have the same problem with my 2006 CR-V, jumped at least 5 teeth. When I tried to turn the crank pulley I felt valve was hitting the pistons. I checked around and found a lot is Japanese motors. Some days 5th digit D which is what I have and 11th digit C(Japan built) but I have U(US Built). Does it fit? Any emission problem? I know this is old thread but I am still give a try.

2014 Honda crv I brought new and have had my Honda dealer perform all required services. the other day my dash lights lit up indicating an engine problem. brought my crv to the Honda dealer where I was informed I have stretched timing chain. repair cost $1,800.00 dollars. my crv has 68,000 adult driven miles on it. my wife is 68 and I am 70 years old. I thought when Honda went away from to timing belt to a timing chain it would be an improvement. from what I can see by researching the internet the timing chain failure is a common problem for the Honda crv . I am waiting to hear back from Honda corp. if they can cover some of this B/S repair. most likely a waste of time according to prier posts.

Seems like the timing chain failure is a common problem for the Honda CRV. It cost me $1,800.00 as well to the dealer ( Sunnyvale CA) after 2 days P0325 code - changing again a knock sensor for $500.00.

Well my wife's 2005 CRV has 260K miles and was throwing the P0341 code. Her car is also consuming a quart of 5W20 every 200-300 miles. This car has always had oil changes between 4K and 5K miles. (I had review here service receipts). Was original using Mobile 1 5W20 Synthetic. But since oil consumption dropped below 1000 per quart, she switch to using Pennzoil 5W20. The car does not have the power like it use to have. The CRV is now a backup vehicle so start working on various issues. First was the timing chain. Found it had jump one tooth and slack in chain between the cam gears. With valve cover off, found intake cam has erosion on peak of the lobes and the exhaust lobes had sever pitting. Pulled plugs which were replaced about a year ago: #1 had black oily soot - #2-3-4 where white/grey deposits. Looking down spark plug hole - had carbon build up and wet looking. Pulled head cylinder head confirmed the top of the piston heavy encrusted carbon. Pulled PVC valve and found it was all coked up with carbon. The cylinder bores did not show much wear other than the ring of carbon around the top of each bore. Dropped the pan, relative clean, no sludge any where. Plastic-gauge each rod journal and all bearing clearance within spec and no signs of wear. Push all the rod/piston out relatively easy by hand. All the piston's oil control rings were stuck by all the carbon build up. The compression rings where clean and free. These rings are consider low-tension with compression ring only 1.2mm thick and the oil control ring being 2mm thick. Have cleaned up and prep the cylinder bores. Will install new piston/ring and rod bearings. Having the cylinder head reconditioned. Put in a new timing chain/tensioner. From what I have seen - Hard to say what is the primary cause. The vehicle was always using good oil, oil lever regularly checked and had reqular schedule oil changes. It's like the chicken and the egg - which came first. Unfortunately my wife did not document every time she put a quart of one in. Bob G.

2014 Honda crv I brought new and have had my Honda dealer perform all required services. the other day my dash lights lit up indicating an engine problem. brought my crv to the Honda dealer where I was informed I have stretched the timing chain. the repair cost $1,800.00 dollars. my crv has 67,000 adult driven miles on it. I thought when Honda went away from to timing belt to a timing chain it would be an improvement. from what I can see by researching the internet the timing chain failure is a common problem for the Honda crv . I am waiting to hear back from Honda corp. if they can cover some of this B/S repair.

I replaced a chain in a 2006 CR-V that I purchased new at 75,000 miles back in 2011. Always serviced by the book. I have worked for two California Honda dealers for 13 years. No one in either the service or the parts departments have ever heard of anyone else having a problem with a timing chain. Curious ??? Currently overhauling another 2006 CR-V with 175,000 miles due to oil consumption. Timing chain and guides are still OK, but tensioner measures 12mm of shaft extension. 13mm is when the computer starts throwing P0341 codes. New chain brought it back to 8mm. Vehicle has used a quart of oil every 500 miles since I purchased it with 130,000 miles. I often ran the oil clear off the dipstick on long trips and always overfilled it by a quart and that did not seem to have any effect on the timing chain. As I expected, the oil control rings were completely caked with carbon. Oil control ring drain holes are plugged solid, and there is carbon build-up on the inside of the piston that covers up the drain holes. It appears the oil coming through the drain holes got hot enough to cook on the inside wall of the piston and that carbon build-up plugged the holes from the inside. Eventually everything plugged up solid. The rings are much smaller and much closer to the top of the pistons than back in the day. There are no piston squirters to cool the pistons in the K24A1 engine and the rods are thin and do not conduct heat well. I don't know how the previous owner drove the car, but I would imagine under a load at high rpms on a hot day, the top of that piston gets pretty hot. Back in 2006, Honda was still recommending conventional oil, which can only withstand 250-300 degrees. Today top quality synthetics will handle up to 500 degrees. A lot of people have had some success with adding Chemtool, Seafoam, and GM top cylinder cleaner down the sparkplug holes and letting it soak overnight. That might temporarily free up the oil rings a little, but that is not going to unplug the solid carbon in the drain holes and on the underside of the piston. I soaked my pistons for a week and still had to use a drill to clear the drain holes. Clogged oil rings are common on Hondas , but this second generation CR-V is the worst I have seen. There was also a build-up of oily gunk in all of the the intake manifold runners. Evidently as blow-by increases, it is common for oil to be sucked through the PVC system. There are some articles online detailing how to build a catch can to separate the oil from the air in the PVC system.