Gauges on 2000 camry quit working help!
32 Answers
Did this issue result from from someone performing any maintenance/repair? Was the vehicle operating when this issue developed?
Did you check Fuse #22 10 amp....at the Instrument Panel Fuse Box?
Last chance no it was doing fine. It all stopped when I was driving. Yes replaced that fuse but it didn't help.
Fuse replaced, only one blowing. 10 amp. Disconnected all three instrument panel connectors, replaced fuse again. Blew again. Windows still do not work. It seemed the alternator is making noise. Next step, I guess is to see if it is surging or dying... I do not find a separate fuse for the windows. The door locks work ... key in ignition warning works, door ajar light works, dome works. All other fuses work..... Any other ideas would be nice.
Also no noticeable broke, chaffed, or chewed wires
SO...which Fuse keeps blowing? How is it labeled? My guess is we are going to need a wiring diagram to pinpoint the short which is causing this fuse to go bad. Once we know WHICH fuse is blowing ...we can find out which circuits are powered by that fuse. Example..... If your Power Windows are on that same circuit...then the short may be there.
Also no noticeable broke, chaffed, or chewed wires The fuse labeled gauges
OK...now we have to find out how many circuits this "Gauges" fuse controls. So...what else does not work besides the Power Windows and Dash? Car starts up and runs correctly? Any WARNING lights on or flashing?
That noisy Alt. MAY be the root cause of this issue. Car-ful-ly....disconnect the Alt and see if your problems go away.
The car runs good. Gas guage works horn, radio, wipers work... Just windows. Speedo, tsch, temp are out. Gotta find the power window circuits and unplug them.
You might consider unplugging the Alternator first....it's easier. Just be careful. Don't let any of the wires short to ground. Do the Back Up Lights Work?
Which 10 amp fuse is/keeps blowing. These fuses usually have a number and a description. Which Engine is in this vehicle. Does this vehicle have Day Time Running Lights?
Alternate disconnected makes no diff. Watching the fuse as engine goes to "ON" Is when it pops. This is with all the plugs behind kick panel drivers side unplugged. All tail lights, brake, tail and turn work.... Door locks operative... Wiring under hood looks to be OK...
Guess I will just have to follow wire by wire.... Fun times....
Do the back up lights work?
Still no luck.... Disconnecting one plug at a time, .... No Joy..... What is common factor with speedo, windows, tach, odo, temp gauge, other then the 10 amp fuse? Is there a computer modual hiding somewhere?
Good question....that's why we need a wiring diagram for this vehicle. A WD would save a lot of time and labor.
Checking the neutral/safety this evening.... Well, the plug at the tranny... Not sure what I will find. Disconnected all window switches. Still have not seen any wires frayed or broke.
2000 2.2 automatic. Fuses are not numbered, but description is there.... GUAGE.20A
So....which fuse keeps blowing...the 20 amp GAUGE Fuse??.......or the !0 amp ????? Fuse.
Try this...Google..."2000 Camry Fuse Box Diagram". There you should find a list of fuses in the fuse box in question. There you should see a list of circuits this 10 amp Gauges fuse controls. The Warning buzzer is the next item I would disconnect.
Nocar.....did you ever resolve the issue with this vehicle?
I am having this same problem.
This can be caused by a loose connection in one of the wiring harnesses in the instrument panel (dash) fuse box. It's roughly in the center of the panel, with a big black plastic insulator guarding three wires. I came here looking for which one of those connections is the relevant one.
Indeed.....I think I remember a Service Bulletin issued via Toyota addressing this concern. Suggest you Google your make model year and.....Service Bulletins. Get back with results.
Vietpho.?......did you ever resolve the issue with your vehicle?
Hello everyone, thank you for all of the suggestions. Hey guys, I figured out the problem. One of the pins on my pigtail harness that connects to the ignition switch (under the steering wheel area) was burnt/loose connection. I wiggled it and everything works now. I will need to buy a new pigtail.
When someone mentioned loose connections, I went thru and wiggle every wire I can find until something started working. Sure enough, my dash started working when I wiggled the pigtail for the harness.
Excellent. Good diagnosis. Let us know how that replacement pigtail works.
Guru9FKVX6 answered about a year ago
Mine was the wiring harness under the trunk the person who put it back put it so it was getting pinched by the latch whenever it was closed. Had to fix 3 wires two were completely off. Went through 4 10A fuses before finding out what happened. Find out what is connected and check all wires for frays causing a short. That fuse is also connected to charging system.
Good job. Well...Seems these old cars can be fixed. Difficult to find folks willing to put in the time to diagnose the issue.