What could be the problem with my f-150 that it won't start because the gauges on dashboard for temp,oil,speed,rpm,and fuel they are locked they won't move at all when turnig on the key

It's hard to make a decision on the problem your facing. Kind of sounds like your having Anti-Theft problems with the sensor inside your steering column, "If your key has a chip in it try another key." If you unplug the battery for a minute and plug it back up does that fix the issue? Another issue is you might just have a bad ignition switch that needs to be replaced, "I would start with the ignition switch." I would test to see if the truck is throwing any codes also. That is if you can get it cranked, "take it to Autozone or O'reily's Auto they should have a code tester you can borrow." If you have the money a decent Ford dealer would be recommended but they will charge an arm or leg but it will be done right most of the time. Last, I had an issue with the wires inside the fuel tank being corroded on my 2000 F150 5.4L and not making a good connection. I replaced the fuel pump and had to drop the tank again when the fuel pump would not turn on. I had to cut and splice the wires. If any one else has any other ideas go for it. Good luck

I already did that disconnecting the battery and trying againg but it just doesn't respond the last time I got the gauges to move and started the truck the rpm gauge stayed stuck in the middle and it won't move at all and because of that its not letting it start and I did the battery deal disconnecting and reconnecting but nothing and the problem is that starting the truck to at least take it somewhere to hook it to a computer maybe it could point at me in the right direction but at the same time I can't take it to a ford shop because I don't have the money to pay them as much as they will charge me to fix it I also tried changing one of the relays that overheats while turning the key on and off and nothing but when it cools down over night it starts again in the morning at least one time till the truck it's turned off and the problem again and again I was thinking about the ignition switch but am trying to find the right answer so am not guessing only and end up spending much more money on other parts that probably aren't the problem but I really appreciate your previous answer it's helpful and makes my decision a little stronger about changing the ignition switch

From what I understand by your writing is you have a dead key, absolutely nothing happens when you try to start, period. If that is the case allow me to ask; when you insert the key into the ignition do you get the ding-ding-ding? If no, suspect the anti-theft system or the ignition switch.

No when I put the key in I do get that ding/ding that any car usually does when the key is still in the ignition and the driver side door and all the lights on the dashboard come on the only thing that doesn't move are the gauges all of them even when I try to start the truck it makes the starting noise but never comes on like it's not getting fuel to the injectors and at the same time while turning the key on I should be able to hear the fuel pump pumping but it's not its just dead starting with the pump and then the gauges and the only time the pump comes on its when the gauges move and then allows the truck to fire up and if turning the truck back off right away it starts doing the same thing over and over again so yes I have a good battery and there's a relay that clicks two times as am turning the ignition key on and the lights come on but like I keep saying as long as the gauges don't move it won't crank up until they do after it cools off and no the switch it's not dead that's why it throws me out of line and then it's confusing because I have power to the board but gauges don't move and the fuel pump doesn't come on and that's why I changed the fuel pump because that's why it's acting like it's just not getting any fuel to the injectors but am back to the beginning changing the pump did not make any difference and that's why am asking you if you have any idea what it could be? Because am lost and all my regular fuses are good as well I don't know if it could be another relay other than the one that clicks when turning the key on which I already replaced and nothing

OK, you going to have to get ah Ohm meter and begin checking. Start the vehicle and let it run, turn it off. If it does not start turn the key to off. Set the ohm meter to DC volts and make the connection to the proper leads where the pump connects to the electrical pump. Have someone turn the key to the on position (not start) you should get power to the pump for a few seconds as it attempts to build pressure into the system. If no power, check backward. Test the same way while someone attempts to start the vehicle. If no power is supplied to the pump then also check backward for the problem. Question: Once the vehicle starts, will it continue to run until the key is turned off? Or will it eventually kill? If it kills after a while of running the problem is probably heat related. If you start the vehicle in the morning, then immediately turn it off, will it restart? If no, then the heat issue has been eliminated and your problem is probably electronic or possibly a ground issue. Could even be a cam position sensor, but you are going to need the testing procedure to determine.

If you are getting a constant click when turning the key it is the solenoid. It should not do that if enough amperage is being supplied to the starter. If you replaced the solenoid and still get the click then there is a good chance you have a bad ground from the battery. Trace the primary ground from the battery to the chassis for tightness and corrosion.

When I get truck to fire up it stays on until I turn it off and then try to restart the problem is there it won't

After its turned off after getting it started it will start one more time but kill itself and after that it won't start at all until is left alone to cool off and try again so I think is an electrical problem the ways it's acting and I already changed the relay that clicks every time I turn the key on but still doesn't fix the problem yes it could be a bad ground or a short in my wires but there's to many wires won't know where to start that's why am trying to get your help question:if I take it to get plugged into a computer to try to diagnose the trouble would that be the best way to go without having to take it to the ford shop

I understand your problem as finances go. However, vehicles if this era test equipment must be used to properly diagnosis the problem. If you had a fuel pressure gauge the fuel system could be tested in about ten minutes eliminate the fuel pump. An ohm meter would also be of value is testing other electronic components for defects. Without basic test equipment and a manual explaining what to test and how, you're lost left scratching your head. I will state again, a constant click from the solenoid while trying to start the vehicle is the root of the problem.

I just ran into this problem today. I started the truck 3 times with no issues. Then all at once the gauges stopped working and so did the fuel pump. The starter is working fine being that the vehicle will crank over,,,and over and over, just no fuel to the cylinders. I checked all relays and fuses that have anything to do with the fuel pump and all are good. I don't understand how the truck was running just fine with the gauges working and now that the gauges wont work the fuel pump wont work. Any ideas?

My 2015 also at times wont start, I turn the key and nothing happens.

I am able to start the truck from under the hood when I touch the solenoid switch with a screwdriver. but trying to crank it from my key switch will not work, and it will continue to run at all time until I turn it off.

HAD PROBLEMS WITH STARTING ICHANGED TO OTHER KEY SEEM S TOBE OK I ALSO CHANGED BATTERY IN FIRST KEY IT IS WORKING OK FOR NOW

I had some what the same issues. Truck just die while driving. Sit for 20 minutes and it starts again. Been to a few mechanics, red a few blogs about the issue. Some say bad connections to module. I've had 4 diagnostic's done, replaced the battery and had connection redone to bony control module, just to have it die again 3 weeks later. Replaced body control module, still didn't start. Finally, they got it started by replacing a 25amp fuse which was corroded. They cleaned the fuse box up as well. Spent $1000's go get this thing running for a little elbow grease and a $1.99 cent fuse

I've had the same issue. I go to start the truck and it cranks one time before stopping. Then nothing. Every service light will light up along with some stability control message in the info center. If i disconnect the battery it seems to work half the time I reconnect it. Then sometimes I just have to wait. My wife had it happen at a stop light once while it was running, but mostly just when you go to start it. Casey, do you remember which fuse you had your issue with?

Not sure which fuse, was a little one. But that didn't solve the problem. We found out the fuse wasn't blowing but arching in the fuse box. So they cleaned the fuse box out. I'm not sure if this is the final answer to the solution, traded it in 20 minutes later. I couldn't afford anymore repairs, diagnostic, or tow trucks.

Did you finally figure it out Mark? i have a 95 f150, it cranks and as you said, no power to pump, the relays and fuses came tested good, I am also stumped. the fuel gauge also does not move, but all the other gauges work normal.

We have the same problem. I turned the interior light dimmer switch on and truck stated up without any more problems.

Curious as to if this was ever figured out I have an 01 doing the exact. Same. Thing. Gem was replaced as well as the fuse box under the dash, I already have 8 grand into it don't want to cut my losses and get rid of it. We bypassed it by putting a toggle switch keeping the dash on but it's annoying and not a permanent fix....

any answers? 03 f150 4.6 same issue!

Mine turned out to be the cluster circuit board getting fried.

My 2009 f150 tried to start truck this morning the truck started up but my instrument panel lit up saying checking system it went through every light on the dash speedometer tachometer water transmission Instruments do not work but truck still runs when I stop the truck turn the truck off it does not start it locks me out the only way I can restart it is to turn the key on work the shifter and then put it in park sometimes this works does anybody know what the problem is

BCM getting moisture, not getting enough volts through your ground , pull fuel pump module relay out , leave key forward , check volts on ground side , less then 11v , BCM or ground wire , in passenger side kick panel on floor , if you wash your door jams with water / hose , moisture to BCM will **ck everything up.

Same problem I added three ground wires two number 6 gauge wire . One to firewall beside solenoid where ground strap mounts and one to bolt on engine beside alt. The main one is 4 gauge to the frame.That will start it but I had to take panel with gauges on it out and resolder some spots that was on Google that showed me how. They go out evert me it got hot.

Ecm most Ford vans and trucks anything over 150 200,000 start to have an issue with the ECM computer issue my van is doing the same thing I'm stuck in broken right now it starts in the morning and I have it running pretty much all day because I'm afraid to shut it off once I shut it off it locks back up all the lights are on on the dashboard every sensor every light everything you can think of is on and blinking and going crazy my odometer and Miles says zero everything is at zero everything is blinking flashing I did the battery thing unplug it here in there and it used to snow it's the more I play with it the worse it gets now I can't even get my van to start a car with a lock picture on it light is blinking the van thinks it's locked but if I play around with the key I can get it to start now I'm having a hard time I took it to my mechanic I had it plugged in the computer said ECM not responding computer not responding computers go on these things my mechanic said especially for words with high miles

My 2009 F-150 problem has been resolved local Ford dealer found multiple codes. Replaced the whole dash cluster and resolved the problem , $750 later truck runs fine between oil changes new tires and new brakes since new not bad

Thanks for your help. Could u see any problems with the board that would stand out? Like a spot that over heated.

i got a 2017 1200 miles an the bcm went out no gagaes nothing they change it now good

Anyone come up with a resolution to the original post? the dash gauges do not power up but the dash cluster itself does. When the gauges are not powering up the fuel pump does not turn on. When they gauge is power up the fuel pump turns on. I will also note that in this mode when it is not running if you spray some gas in the throttle body it will run meaning there is power to the ignition to make it run. It's just not the fuel pump running. Once again though when the dash cluster Powers up everything is fine. When I shut it off it won't start and it's not even a Time issue was letting it cool down it just starts sometimes starts sometimes it wont.so I'm I replaced the relays and and had a new fuel pump put in it earlier I know that's not the problem cuz he truck runs absolutely perfect when the cluster is powered up. It has to be a short or a ground wire to the cluster. Somehow I'm not really sure. If anybody else has had these issues and done anything other than what has been listed above please chime in. Everything listed above I have done and I still have the problem.

I had the same problem with my f150. Sometimes the dash gauges would be dead and it would not start. It would always turn over, but when the gauges did not move when you turned the key on it would not start. If it was one of the lucky days it started then it would stay running until you turn the key off, then when you would come back to start it it would either not start at all or start for a couple of seconds and then shut off. The problem turned out to be a bad connection on the instrument panel circuit board. The trucks BCM (body computer) needs a correct digital signal to be sent from the instrument panel in order for the truck to start. If the gauges work for just long enough for the signal to be sent out, the truck will start. The instrument cluster reads the radio frequency code generated by a small chip in the head of the key and picked up by a circular antenna ring around the ignition lock cylinder. The truck only needs the signal to start...I can pull my key out of the ignition once the truck is started because it is so worn.

What was going on was that one of the solder joints that links a circuit on one side of the instrument panel circuit board with a circuit on the other side was cracked. I just heated it up with a soldering iron and applied a bit of rosin core solder. What would happen was when the truck would cool off the solder would make contact and let the truck start most mornings, but then if it was warm it would not restart except sometimes turning the key off and on a bunch would somehow arc the cracked solder joint and make connection again for a short time. While I had the instrument cluster apart I noticed cracked solder joints at the pound of the connector going to the odometer screen and resold errs them. Now my truck (with 300k miles) starts reliably again and the odometer screen doesn’t black out anymore.

well it just started first i noticed the battery stone dead so i jumped it of course it fired up and i ran down to the local store and back home not shutting it off for the dead battery isseue, at home when i tried to shut off the truck it kept certian things running like hheating and lights while the engine did shut off there was a sparking sound could not locate it but if i moved the key ever so slightly it seemed shut off all the issues i pulled the hot cable from battery anyway for safty sake and now the hunt begins as to why i think ignition switch

Did you ever end up solving your problem?

same problem. 2001 ford f150 truck stalled out on the road. change the fuel pump. truck started right up for 10 min. not it won't start. gauges don't move. has power ,fuse all good, relay work fine. cut-off switch is also working. the motor turn over. but no fuel pressure. gauges don't move ?

Having same no start issue with my 99. Fuel pump new, relay new, fuel pressure 40lbs at schradder valve. I suspect no power to injectors. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

If your mileage is a digital screen does it --------- out when the problem happens? If so, there is a larger black relay for pcm under hood fuse box that is causing problem if replacing batteries in key fobs didn't work. All key fob batteries must be in hood working order also!

My 2010 Ford F150 with 72,000 miles won't start. Instead all the dashboard warning lights are on, every sensor and every light is on and blinking. Put a new battery in it. Same story. Took it to Ford service dealer who said it's a bad instrument cluster and will cost $1,010 to order and install a new one. Mechanic asked if there are any water leak issues. None. Garage kept for five years. Most of the miles put on it were from the prior owner who had it the first four years.

I have had the same problem with my 1996 Ford F150...after reading all of the replies I am also confused...I use a local mechanic instead of a dealer but I know from experience when everything is working it is hard to find the problem...guess I will ride it out until it dies on me for good,,,,know that will cost a lot (towing included)...any suggestions or updates on the issue before I carry finally carry the truck to the mechanic...both fuel pumps have been replaced withing 5 yrs...the 1996 had a duel gaas tank with 2