06 Cobalt Rough Idle/Stall when stopping or quick deceleration

well if the lights dim check the battery and charging system. with out a power source system start to fail. next i would check vacuum leak

I have the exact same problem with the exact same car! Did you ever find any solution to the problem?

Hello. I have a 2006 Cobalt LS with the 2.2 doing the same thing. Have you found the problem yet?

Hey guys, K well i hope this helps you out. I decided id do a tune up and replaced the spark plugs, oil change, and i sprayed out the throttle body with carb cleaner which had alot of build up in it. Like i said i had the exact same problem of my car nearly stalling everytime i braked and all the lights dimming. As soon as i did the tune up. The car is running like it was new again and isn't doing any of the above problems it was before. So if you haven't tried this yet i recommned it. It fixed my problems. Anyways good luck!

Mine is a 05 and does the same things. We've replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned throttle bodies, and replaced the whole gas peddle and electrical unit with it, It got better for a couple days but has started up again. Any ideas?!

Had 100% same problem - just fixed it yesterday. Hope it will help to others: all my mechanic did is cleaned the air intake system, and injector, after that the car runs like new - the rpm hold steady, a little below 1000, no drops or anything. All of the problem caused because car doesn't have enough oxygen flowing in.

I have the same problem with my 2006 cobalt.Today i decided to take the whole intake a part and cleaned inside and the T.B.I.(was a lot a oil deposit on it) After that change the fuel filter,spark plug and done problem solve.I noticed the bolt on the intake was not enough torque on it.I replaced all the rubber gaskets too.If you have a problem where the car dont rev over 3,000 rpm you got problems with the MAF Sensor (Mass Air Flow )Its gone to show in the dash Power Reduced.Hope this helps!!I

I have the same car with same problem. It took the throttle body off and cleaned every inch of it, and used a q-tip in the vacuum hose also. On fuel injected engines this is called a "tune-up" your mechanic should have tried this first. There is a ton of carbon build-up in these intake's. only requires removing 4 bolts from the body and the air intake off of the top, and a $2 can of cleaner. Idle runs strong now,with no hesitation. of course i have 50 electrical issues to figure out, buying a ford next time around.

I have had the same problem on my 05 Cobalt. After delaying the maintenance on it because I have been so busy at work. I finally decided to investigate this problem. It is a simple fix. The throttle body intake valve is not closing all the way. Buy a can of throttle body cleaner. All you need to do is take your air intake box off to acess your throttle body. you will probably notice that where the valve is inside has became very dirty. Spray some of the cleaner ON A RAG and wipe off the valve and the walls around it. you will also need to manually open the valve and clean down beside it. It takes about 10 minutes to complete this. Re-assemble and test drive. The car should drive like a brand new one.

Hi, I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt 2.2, I was having the same problem with the car stalling or wanting to at first, it was worst in the colder weather. in the summer the ac was not even working right. But I cleaned the Throttle Body. I pulled it out spent like 4 bucks on a can of throttle body cleaner and sprayed it good. The car runs great.

Same problem here, with a 2005 2.2L. My car was showing codes for both O2 sensors, and MAP sensor. It has 127k miles. I did a tune-up at 100k miles. (spark plugs, k&n filter, belt, and went to full synthetic oil) I noticed the car having a rough idle when slowing down. I recently bought a bottle of seafoam, and did an oil change and cleaned the k&n. After 1000miles my car has significantly inproved. Im going to clean my throttle body next, hopefully it fixed the problem further. I now have no error codes showing.

Anybody currently having this kind of problem here is what I did to solve it. I took the air cleaner off. The inside of the throttle body air intake was black sludge. Using a fuel additive, I wiped out what I could and then poured some into the throat until it was pretty clean. Berrymans B12 spray would have been better and the stuff works great. I just did not have any. DO NOT spray it or any other carb or brake cleaner on anything else. The stuff will damage plastics, rubber and paint. . Do not move the butterfly valve inside the throat. Replace the air cleaner carefully making sure the rubber gasket fits all the way around the throttle body properly and then tighten the screw firmly. That solved my problem. If by chance you get an engine warning light, disconnect the car battery for a few minutes and then reconnect. That resets the onboard computer. You should have no further problems. Automobiles today are really sensitive to air intake. It seems to affect everything including how your transmission shifts. This is a simple task. Don't rush it. A screw driver and a pair of pliers are all you need.

and just to add...Please stop repeating comments...everybody knows cleaning the Throttle body helps if its dirty but that doesn't solve the problem completely for a whole lot more people. The problem with GM TB in the newer balts is this...It does way too many functions as one device. in theory its great. You have the Throttle control and the Idle air control and its all automated AND it electronically controls down-shifting int he transmission. great fantastic. except the electronics are completely unreliable...so its just a disaster.

vizard answered 21 minutes ago FIXED...semi-fixed anyway. Ok so here's a complete step by step process on how to fix your idle stumble issues. Step one: clean throttle body with brush and carb cleaner. NO HARD OR METALIC BRISTLES only plastic or else just wet a clean rag and wipe. step too remove all hoses connections and everything from plastic intake manifold. step 3: please clean every single grove of the mating surfaces that are supposed to have a green "viton" gasket on it. they should be reusable especially if the car is under 100K. if its more than 100K change them anyway regardless of how they look. please be careful to minimize and reduce any sand or dirt getting into the manifold during and after removal. to help facilitate this safety try to blow how the dust with compressed air or with a "duster" can you can get that at an office dept or just about anywhere really. Step 4: use a plastic bristle brush and clean all gasket grooves with carb cleaner and a PLASTIC bristle brush. use a toothbrush. you're supposed to get a new one everymonth anyway. Install reverse of removal and please please make sure you torque the bolts on the engine head to the RIGHT specifications. Do not over torque. Remove the fuel rail and injectors if you already haven't done so. please used compressed air to clean area before doing this. replace ALL GASKETS AS A SET the gaskets are O-RINGS. you can replace all the lower ones if that's easier and please replace the one on the plastic grey cup at the end of the injectors. If injectors are dirty pleaes clean with carb cleaner and a plastic toothbrush. the spray alone will not clean it all. install is reverse of removal. please torque the retaining bolts (2 holding bolts) to the CORRECT TORQUE. overtightening and undertightening have concequences. so be reasonable if you don't ahve a torque wrench. Step five: use seafoam upper engine treatment OR b-12 chemtool. They are both very good. You can google how to do this on the car as it may take too many words. Place 1/2 or follow instructions on how much should go in gasoline. if you have any problems figuring steps out then by the haynes repair manual. it helps. After this you have to "relearn" the idle speed and throttle position. they are findable in google and they are in the repair manual. 0 vizard answered 10 minutes ago relearning idle position and idle speed step by step process: Step 1: turn ign: to ON position and do not start. IMMIEDIATELy pump the accelerator ALL THE WAY DOWN and ALL THE WAY UP quickly and smoothly SEVEN times in under Five Seconds. repeat this like 3 or more times to make sur eyou do it right. AFTER you do the last set do not turn the IGN key off but wait 2 seconds after the initial five seconds and then crank. any check engine light should go away and PCM should be reset. Step 2: Let the car warm up to normal operating temperature. Setp 3: drive the car around moderately and idle with only slight acceleration to moderate acceleration if needed. OR you can drive around moderately until normal performance returns. Step 4: place the PARKING BRAKE ON and LEAVE the SHIFTER in DRIVE for automatics and "NEUTRAL for all MANUALS. Step 5: let the car idle in DRIVE for autos and NEUTRAL for manuals/stick shift for a total of 2 minutes. turn off the car.. idle should be relearned now. everything should be working normal now unless there is some vacuum leaks, OR spark plugs faulty or incorrectly gapped, or APP(acell pedel position sensor) or something else is not working like it should.

i just left my mechanics for this exact same problem car kept stalling at red lights or stop signs or quick decelaration. after reading online about other like causes he took off my air intake box and the throttle body off ,throttle body had dried black sludge on the butterfly and on the throttle body walls ,he cleaned them both . so far so good it even seems like there is more power no stalling yet.

Is there anything else that can be done to fix this? We replaced the throttle body, air filter and throttle positioning sensor and it's still doing the same thing...I've been dealing with this for well over a month. I hate this car! Any other ideas that would work?

I think it is a much simpler fix, i cant remember the name of the part, but the oreilleys part number is CP561. $20 and five minute swap. Havent tried it, dont have the time. Someone who is a do it yourself type person should try and report back. I know it isnt a dirty maf sensor, air filter, or electrical problem, done all of those multiple times with no luck.

Canister purge solenoid cp561 bwd

That's if it isn't working or stuck open. I tested it and that was NOT the problem. it was leaking air at the orings of the intake manifold and the fuel rail

oh sorry not to mention this earlier but if you suspect air leaking at the fuel rail and intake manifold. buy a can of brake parts cleaner or good carb cleaner and spray around the fuel rail and intake manifold. if the idle changes you have an air leak then refer to my long instructions on how to fix it. THOSE LONG INSTRUCTION WILL FIX IT IF YOU DO ALL OF THEM.

I have 2007 and its the Purge solenoid sensor and throttle body sensor. I haven't replaced it yet bc its around $400! I may try cleaning it before I.dish out this money

Hi everyone! For those who haven't had luck resolving this issue... Here's what it took to fix my 06 with 107k... Started as a rough idle, nothing horrible but very irritating. Progressed to horrible idle, random stalling, RPMs all over the place & no acceleration power. Had it towed to Monro car center & they told me it was the fuel filter (?!). I let them replace the filter & I was on my way. Problem returned 10 miles later when I shifted into reverse. Then I read these comments & I did the throttle clean. This solved my problem for about 100 miles. Finally I consulted a mechanic & he ran a diagnostic. Turned out I had a code in my system for a random multiple misfire (pending code with no engine light). Since I had a tune up at 100k we deducted that the ignition coil pack needed replaced. It's a 10 minute fix... DON'T let a shop do it, they will rape you!!! I did it myself & my car now runs like a dream! :)

We have a 2006 cobalt 2.2L with same issues only we have a check engine light on with it. The diagnostics pointed to the MAF sensor so we replaced it 1st. There are no vacuum leaks and the light is still on and still idling issues. I do believe taking the throttle body and idle air control valve off for a good cleaning will fix this issue. Dont forget if you have a check engine light on to disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear the code. I will reply once I have finished this and let you know the results.

1/7/2014 i bought a new air filter and mass air flow (MAF) cleaner. i also bought injector cleaner, which i did not use yet in the fuel tank. the process i used was, i replaced the the air filter with a new one and cleand the mass air flow sensor, located in the black air filter housing. then i took off the plastic coverings, sprayed the throttle body inside with the mass air flow cleaner and wiped it out with a rag without removing the throttle body from the engine. it seemed to work bc i dont lose rpm's. i barely noticed the interior lights dim at all. i guess i will find out if i fixed the problem when i drive it more at stop and goes. advanced auto said if that doesn't work, try the fuel injector cleaner and maybe replace the fuel filter. it seemed to drive alright just cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor and replacing the air filter

I am driving a toyota vits (2000 model) import. after driving 1000km on a road trip I was on a stop sign and the and the engine just vibrated 3 - 4 times and it stalled. i switched it back on and i was able to make my way. following morning it startd perfectly, but as i was decelerating to a stop sign in vibrated again and stalled. after stalling a few more times, it run okay the rest of the day (no vibrating or stalling). I should mention that it recently got a new head. when its not stalling on stop signs or vibrating when decelerating engine sounds fine. I am looking at replacing the throttle, mass air flow sensorair/fuel filter. I also noticed that the engine is taking forever to warm up. Could it be the thermostat as well. PLEASE HELP i have spent enough on this car and i a looking for a somewhat lasting solution

I found website that explained got their answer I copy and paste what the person say... turned out to be a bad coil on cylinder # 1. Replaced coil and she runs great now. Thx for input.

After many hours verifying ignition and fuel ok, we ran the scan tool live , and discovered irratic readings from the MAP (Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. Replacing the sensor was the solution. On a Cobalt, the sensor is under the throttle body.

I had replaced MAP it do not help also i clean Thottle body same thing only after when engine hot it drop RPM.

Look at the brown wire connection. It is located in the large square plug connector beside the throttle body. There are Hither six or eight wires in and out of the plug. Mine was poorly crimped and had broken. after it was repaired all the crazy problems disappeared

I have a 2006 cobalt 2.2 lt eng.. automatic. .I've had it for over a yr and It has been hormonal since day one.. at first it started out stalling and idle was off.. now its progressed into taking fifteen mins to start it after dying, bogging out and chugging harshly.. with it going haywire with alerts like service airbag, engine power reduced, theft, oil life reset tc light and not to mention my alarm goes off everytime I get into it... once in a great while it starts with no prob but its very rare! I'm a single mom and can't afford mech. Pls help

I have a 2005 cobalt...while in motion the check engine light appears and it says engine being reduced, followed by "Engine Disabled" I hate it when this happens and I'm in the middle of traffic..I took it to the part store and had them run it through their computer..long story short...I spent $300.00 and I'm still having the same issue...I've heard different answers from different mechanics...my answer is $5 worth of gasoline and a match!! #Never buying another Chevrolet...

With our Cobalt, the irratic engine conditions were caused by the Spark Control Unit. It is a small rectangular module, mounted on the top of the engine, in the coil pack. The module is mounted by three small screws. Sometimes the module is defective, sometimes the connector underneath the module is dirty, causing a bad connection. You can see the part on this website http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/ignition_module/chevy/cobalt.html

my car keeps loosing power and stalling, was told to change the plug wires, i did, i changed the coil, changed the rubber on the gasket, but still the same till now but i havent cleaned the throttle body though, and when my car runs on a high speed, suddenly the speed starts dropping, i need help

Drmayor456 the other common problem with this car is the fuel injector o-rings leaking after about 70k miles. It's worth checking by spraying carb cleaner around the seal while idling. If it stumbles replace all o-rings as a set. Makes sure you clean throttle bodies afterword. Stock coils don't go bad till after 10 years or at leaks 110k.

These problems descrbed are ignition. The little ignition control module is the problem 90% of the time. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/ignition_module/chevy/cobalt.html

The shop did change Ignition control look better not alot but i did get sometime i get rpm reading about 300 it still running sometime reading zero rpm strange still running.

drmayor456 I did replaced rubber gasket no change.

Drmayor456 about the stock coils sound like you explained 110k you mean reading for ohm meter?

If your car is stalling out when idling at stop lights etc., have the timing chain checked. I had this happen and took it to two places. The codes showed a huge list and when parts were replaced another code would show up. I ended up paying $200 for a tune up and it didn't help the issue. The day I was heading to the dealership to have it checked out I pulled in to get fuel and the engine stalled as I entered the parking lot, previously it only stalled when at a complete stop. My timing chain broke and threw a rod. $3000 later for a rebuilt engine. I have started having issues again with the rebuild after 40,000 miles. I missed a couple oil changes and when I spoke with a mechanic at the dealership he said that your timing chain will get gummed up if you neglect the oil. Currently my check engine light comes on and goes off randomly and the code reads a reoccurring misfire. I had the oil changed and the car runs well until I drive it further than about 10 miles then idles rough at stops. (If you have a Chevy Cobalt, KEEP UP ON YOUR OIL CHANGES), that is my advice.

I have the same problem on a customers car, changed the coil pack, the coil pack module, cleaned the throttle body, nothing fixed it, im thinking its a clogged cat converter, im a mechanic not just a DIYer, and im chasing my tail and sometimes reading these threads helps to give me an idea if what i have is a common problem

I have a question..my daughter was actually driving when her cobalt died on her..had someine come out and look at it..they said the engine was completely ceased up..anyone have input to that..im at a loss with this throttle problem and hoping to get some direction or what to do next..

We have an 08, the throttle sensors been replaced twice and now it's happening again. Wtf is wrong with this damn car this is dangerous.

Torque converter seems to be an issue that is frequent but rarely mentioned on these unsolved forums.

I have the same problem.. 06 2.2 cobalt LS.. When i start to brake or come to a stop the car feels like its going to stall BUT ONLY WHEN THE AC IS ON.. With the ac off it runs fine.. Any ideas what might be causing this problem??

If you hear a chatter/rattle on startup or after tapping the accelerator. Then it is what mine turned out to be (there may be additional isues as well, but this wI'll be the biggest). Apparently the timing chain tensioner is a crappy design and causes excess wear/stretching, and chain slippage. Supposedly it is fixable by swapping it for the updated 2009 versio. But if it has reached the rough idle/stalling stage you should just ditch the car.

I will eventually ditch the car but i still gotta go thru the triple digit summer b4 i do.. Thx for the advice...will get checked out :)

I have an 06 supercharged cobalt that i cant seem to figure out. It will lag in power going down the road if i get on the gas. At a stop light it will idle up and down and after a couple of times, it will die if i dont feather the throttle. I have replaced the MAF sensor and cleaned the throttle body. Any other suggestions?

Kevinmim2- if dont have any error codes for the throttle body then you most likely have a vacuum leak at the injectors or from one of the vacuum tubes. How to know where? Grab some carb cleaner and get a friend to feather the throttle. Then the second person should spray the entire fuel rail and intake manifold in parts. to detect the leak watch for noticeable stumbles on the spraying. Then repair the leaks!

I have a 2009 Chevy cobalt with around 138k miles. I did an oil change a little over a month ago. Everything was fine with it, it had a little bit of a surge, barely noticeable. Anyway, the car was throwing codes for the throttle body and for the exhaust solenoids. So i checked the solenoids and they were clean, looked like they were brand new, I cleaned out the throttle body completely. And then I disconnected the battery for 15 mins and hooked it all back up to reset the system and put everything back together. Now all of a sudden it stalls and dies at lower RPMs. I am out of options and do not know what to do.

Bborn- can you post codes? You either have a TB problem or you have battery and current problems, like alternator, and the last but least likely is electrical problems. But honestly i have really noticed them on this car except for batt/alternator problems.

I have an 08 cobalt that's been having a rough idle since July now. I have replaced the spark plugs, coil pack, and intake gaskets and it's only getting worse. I cleaned out the throttle body about a month ago, but I am going to try again as well as clean out the intake air control. I ran the codes and it says "random misfire" and "O2 censor." Is anyone else having these issues lately?

06 Cobalt here. My 8month pregnant wife...riding 2miles back and forth to work....so fortunate right!...Well, the poor '06 Cobalt got sick. You guys know the symptoms...1)The engine shakes 2) The flashing engine light on the dashboard 3) The reduced engine power 4) The growing sound of a 2-cycle engine lawnmore coming from your car 5)Sputtering & Low Idle/RPM 6)The "YOU BETTER NOT" come to a complete stop or I'll cutoff threats from the car! 7)And the "What the HECK" is that smell as you pull into the garage....... Does this sound like your car? Well, I'll tell you what to do....and this is for any 2.2L EcoTech that is in GM's, Chevy, Saturns, & Pontiacs....Gas+Match=BURN IT!...JUST KIDDING! This is in order of most likely to least likely culprit! 1) Replace Ignition Control Module(ICM...I changed this 3rd and the car hummed like a Monk Monestary) and you'll be so done, Replace Spark Plugs(Plugs on car designed for 100K, but put in Iridium AC Delco...no change...but should be done if you have this problem...I did this 2nd), Clean Throttle Body(Likely not too bad...did this 1st....no change...not in bad shape); I have 140K on this Cobalt and we had never changed the Plugs, Coils, Clean Throttle Body...but all other routine maintenance. Its been great. I also bought a ignition coil pack, but its on its way back to the store. If things change on this I'll update the forum. Now, go change your ICM!

same issue as everyone else on a 2006 cobalt. stalling and dying. replaced the fuel filter , air filter and cleaned the throttle body and it runs great now.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!! I HAVE A 2005 CHEVY COBALT WITH A 2.2 ECO TECH MOTOR IT WAS IDLING ROUGH AND WOULD DIE WHEN I WOULD COME TO A STOP LIKE MANY OTHERS HERE I CHANGED EVERYTHING THE COIL PACK, SENSORS, SPARK PLUGS, THE THROTTLE BODY, EVERYTHING AND GOT DOWN TO JUST THE INJECTORS MIND YOU NOTHING ELSE WORKED SO WE JUST CHANGED ALL THE INJECTORS AND THE INJECTOR BAR AND IT FIXED THE ISSUE IMMEDIATELY! SO FOR EVERYONE THAT IS HAVING THIS ISSUE THAT IS THE FIX FOR IT!

I have a 2008 chevy cobalt, nothing but trouble since driving it off the lot 10 years ago. 3 months after I got it there was a total recall for 2001-2007, meaning take it to the nearest chevy dealing, no matter the condition, & walk away with a new car. wish they had thrown 2008 in that recall. So last week got the MAFS, all 4 spark plugs & right front wheel hub bearing changed. Took it in yesterday to get the fuel pump injector done, didn`t even make it to the 1st red-light when the check engine light came on, it started jerking really bad, stalled & died. The car cranks fine, but is refusing to stay cranked more than a few seconds before stuttering & dying. its like there is no gas flow to keep it cranked unless I actually press the gas pedal. the second I let off the gas petal, it starts stuttering & dies again, can`t move more then a couple feet. The mechanic just cleaned the fuel pump injector about 15 mintues before the car started stuttering. Any idea what the problem is & if its the mechanic`s fault? it was running fine right before he worked on it

You have a vacuum leak at the injector o rings it's a very common problem. The only solution is a new injector oring cups and seals. Nothing was wrong with your injectors but the seals were probably drawing in air. That engine pulls a heavy vacuum at idle and if the seals go even a little south it will leak and cause severe idle problems. It's that and if the throttle plate gets dirty. Have the mechanic spray brake parts cleaner around the injectors while a second person gives it a steady raise around 1500- 2000 rpms. If it stumbles where u spray then those seals need replacing. It might develop leaks at the throttle body seals as well. You can probably do it by yourself.... You are responsible for your own fires and harm. I take no responsibility if this causes a fire and you, anyone else or property gets harmed.... disclaimer. Not liable for any damages or injury during or from troubleshooting.

I have had the same problem since shortly after I purchased it used. I am making a list from your comments. Glad I am not alone on this.

turned out the body the fuel mixture blows into was crushed inward, no idea how it happened. but the guy who fixed it said most machanics never think to look at that part

Mine was a crack down the exhaust manifold! Coming to a stop slows the motor allowing fresh air in straight to the O2 sensor resulting in the computer dumping fuel in the other side. I bought JB weld extreme heat for $9 seems to be running good for now.

Had the same happen, Chevy Cobalt 2006. It was a used car that I just got from the previous owner. I was testing the cruise control and afterwards it was stalling at slow speeds, the RPMs fluctuating from 750 down to ~200 and up again with the lights and fan flickering until it finally stalled. Did it again a few more times. Battery was ok, alternator was fine. Cleaned the throttle body and changed the filter - air filter was almost black with dirt. Worked fine after. I'm guessing the combination of a dirty up air filter and the hard engine braking gumming up the butterfly valve in the throttle body from using cruise control did it in.

ANOTHER FIX i had this exact same problem, people were telling me to check the battery, check the air filters, check all of that, but the FIRST thing i did was get TWO bottles of FUEL INJECTOR treatment/cleaner one that was recommended to me (supposed to be the best) is called SEA FOAM, drive until you're almost empty on gas, put two of those puppies in BEFORE filling up, works almost instantly. now to prevent it, change your air filter and if it's still acting up then take out your throttle and clean/clear it out. ILL BE HONEST :P im too lazy to do ANY of those, so i just stayed with the 2 bottles, hasnt acted up in like 3 days. The day i finally got fed up with it is when it turned off / stalled on me 3 times in a row in a mile stretch of stop signs.... I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE ELSE OUT THERE btw i have a Chevy Cobalt LT 2010 no turbo

have a 2010 cobolt runs great sometimes .other times it misses like crazy does any body know what it could be

2006 had similar VERY rough idle and stalling at stop lights, also nearly stalled on the freeway several times off gas on brakes. Eventual fix for $270.00 was bad coilpack. Also replaced plugs and used seafoam in quarter tank of gas. Throttle body, airbox, and MAF were all very clean. 220,000 miles 2006 Cobalt.

Additional info to my previous post: COILPACK WAS FILLED, ABSOLUTELY FILLED WITH SPIDERS. It was literally a scene from Arachnophobia. They were all dead thankfully, but apparently drawn to the scent, heat, or electricity coming from the coilpack. Spiders!

Ok here is a twist to what everybody is saying the fix is. I have a 2007 Cobalt. Car is revving very high then very low. Won't start when filled up with gas. We cleaning throttle body..no luck. We replaced the throttle body..no luck. When have changed plugs, replaced air filter, ran seaform and some other through the car....no luck with any of this. We have also reset the computer multiple times and still no luck on getting the throttle body regulated. Ready to give up. Any ideas??