Engine noise

Lucas oil stabilizer is an oil thickening agent and I am not a big fan of that molasses thick stuff. Your oil maybe too thick now. Just my opinion and your mileage may vary.

Look at your oil filter if u see debri might be your timing chain or rails

Hey GuruZ2L3T, pretty sure this particular vehicle has a timing belt which has NOTHING to do with the lubrication system.

The oil filter was changed during the oil change.

There is no mechanic in the lucas oil stabilizer , Evidently you fell for the advertising HYPE Penny wise pound foolish Snake Oils

Doesn't appear to be any correlation nor causation here. But Lucas syrup is no better nor worse in the MOTOR than old STP. If you've an old leaker dripping skinny synth it will build viscosity...but so will using 10w40 winter or 20w50 summer, for example. And the latter is cheaper, of course. OTOH adding molasses to the transmission is absolutely a no-no.... As well, you're risking blowing a trans seal if overfilling by a quart or more; best to drain again and add 3.75 qtis if on level ground. If you jacked up the LEFT side use 3.5qts; if you jacked up the RIGHT side (which is harder, as the drain plug is on the left, eh?), then add 4 qts even. That said, the old EJ25 motor tends to NOT like synthetic, and can become a bleeder at 10w30. I'd use 10w40 dino instead...and even 20w50 if the right head gasket is running wet. Ticking at idle is just the fuel injectors switching, or maybe light cold-start piston slap. The latter will self-correct with full warmup. Finally, addressing your first statement nondescript statement: NO change of fluid will address "not great" unless your tranny was dry or excessively dirty. If your comment concerned trans function, slippage, or hesitation, then YES, draining and refilling is the first best course of action. If the ATF was REALLY very black redrain TWICE a day or two apart to get most of the sludge out...and do NOT "backflush" the trans either...you'll ruin it.