My Car doesn't accelerate when I press the on the gas.

I wish folks would post question like you do Carlos. Instead of "My car won't start". (and that's all)..anyway, checking the transmission fluid was the right move, but that would not prevent the engine to rev up. Do you have a CEL (check engine light ) on? Let's go from there

Ok, So yesterday I did two things. The first was that I went and put ATF into my car, and from there I took it to a mechanic to double check. After the ATF, my car ran smoothly, with out a problem and with out a hitch. The mechanic tested it out, and everything was working great, that I only need to replace my air filter. Drive back was equally as smooth. This morning however, the problem came back, and i dare say even worse. I still managed to get to work, but only after much struggle and pleading with my car. Now when I step on the pedal the engine doesnt rev and the RPMS seem to go DOWN, only until I floored the pedal and then they would jump to the 4-5-6 thousand range with my car jumping forward with the sudden acceleration. I went to the mechanic yesterday and he wiped my check engine light to see if it would pop back up and this morning it did. At this point I have no idea what to do.

'Wiping" the CEL. if you mean just turning it off, is not the thing to do. Of course it will re-appear until the fault is identified and fixed. But! ...it means exactly what it says, check engine. You need an OBD scan. That mechanic is either unskilled or..whatever..I'm not going in to name-calling. You can buy a scanner and do it yourself, or some of the large parts houses will scan it free, or rent or loan you a scanner. You will get a code P (Power Train) followed with 4 numbers. If you do that, come on back and myself or someone will be happy to help you

So I checked the engine codes, and there are two. the first is P0106 and the second is P0172

A PO106 is a faulty MAP sensor and a PO172 is a MAF sensor. Which could just be a dirty air filter. Could also be a bad throttle position sensor.

My car is doing the exact same thing and i also have a 2001 toyota camry LE Automatic! It just started doing this today..check engine light popped up 30 min ago. I dont know squat about cars but i am scaref to drive it......

If you know nothing about cars, it's pointless to tell you what to fix. Not your fault by any means. Just take it to a good auto shop and let them read the error codes. Hopefully it's something simple. You can pull the transmission dip stick and see if it's low or not. You have to check the tranny fluid with the engine running. Pull stick and wipe clean, put back in and check the level. If low, you will have to buy a transmission funnel. It goes in the same hole that you pulled the dipstick from. If possible, go to an Autozone. They should be able to help you out. They can also read your error codes if your check engine light is on.

Have a 2011 Camry LE. Had to jump start it this morning, but then the accelerator wouldn't respond when the car was in drive or reverse. Checked all the fuses and found one burned out. Replaced it with one of the provided spares and that solved the problem. It was for the traction control system.

My car does the same thing.. When the check engine light, the batt light, and break light comes on the car does not want to accelerate at all, the speed odometer, and rpms don't rev. I have a 03 Nissan maxima can anyone help

Deronbruce40-Sounds like you have a bad alternator or a bad battery. I would first change out the battery.(If over 5 years old) See if all the lights go out. If they do, drive it to an Autozone and have them test the hot side of your alternator. If bad replace. Check your brake fluid also. Top it to the FULL line. That should get you back on the road. Post back if that doesn't cure the problem.

I also have a 2003 Nissan Maxima with the same exact problem. Car started in the morning, I left it at tire plus for an alignment. When it was all done I had to jump the car. After three minutes of driving my car would not accelerate. I put it in neutral and it rev but then went crazy. Put it back in first and nothing. I tried turning it on and all my gauges went ballistic, heard ticking from the engine, and car did not start again. Had to be towed. I'm guessing it is the alternator??

It's either a bad battery or alternator. Just clean all connections and grounds first. Charge your battery to capacity. Should turn the car over and it should run. Go to Autozone and have the output side of your alternator tested for proper voltage. If bad, replace. If alternator tests good, have them test the volts of your battery at rest with the car off. If battery is far below 12 volts, replace battery. Like 11.5 or less.

i have a 98 Honda civic LX that takes longer to accelerate then usual, there's no CEL and everything looks good. I don't know whats wrong, please help.

Deronbruce40 & Reelin68 I took my 03 maxima to a shop and it was indeed my alternator. Got a BRAND NEW ONE not refurbished and my car is stronger than ever! If you haven't already fixed your problem try a new alternator. Thanks Reelin68.

Andrew 08 15 maybe a bad intake boot? Or maybe a dirty throttle body?

I have a 2008 honda civic hybrid that started doing this two days ago and last night it just stopped accelerating all together, it just started rolling back. no matter what gear i put it in, it will rev up but not actually move. HELP!!

Sounds like a bad torque converter. Here's an article on Honda's bad rap for trannys. I think you will have to bring it to a transmission shop. http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/transmission-failure/

Hi,I have a similar problem with my car that has been going on for like a month now. It first started with whenever I was at a stop and it was my turn to go as soon as I stepped on the gas the car felt like it lagged to go. Then it would suddenly run back to normal. It kept doing this and I had a friend check it out and he said it sounds fine but it might just need a tune up. Which I haven't done so yet but is planning to soon. Now though, when I'm pressing on the gas the car sounds weird when the engine is running. Sounds like if the car was sick. Weird I know. It doesn't sound healthy. Recently though I press the gas and the car stalls for a bit then it suddenly jumps really quick and it runs then goes back to normal. I really don't know much about cars but any suggestions or help would be appreciated.I feel like it might be the air filter but who knows. I just hope its not the transmission. I drive a 2004 Kia spectra automatic 4 cylinders. Oh and another thing. I've noticed that my car has been consuming the gas quiet fast. It's annoying especially with this economy.

Jesse, is the check engine light on? If it is, take it to Autozone and have the codes read. Write them down and post them back here. No sense in just guessing which part is bad. Post back if you have no check engine light.

No, the check engine light is not on.

Okay, I will assume that you have no major parts malfunctioning at this time. While you are doing your tune up, clean your mass air flow sensor. Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=_TO7ZC5N-aA Also, clean your throttle body and Idle Air Control valve also. Here is a video. Not your make and model, but still the same idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMa0nom1iwc

Ok will do. Asap. Thanks a lot I appreciate it. I'll let u know how it goes

I have a 2001 Chevy venture the cel would come on for a second then go off so when I tried to get the car read the light would go off so everyone said the car is fine. One day the light came back on I hurried to my mechanic of course it went back off but he read it and it gave the code p0472 torque converter solenoid I only had this car for a year and as I get things fixed on it it still has manufacturer parts and wires

I have 1988 ford mustang lx and whenevr i press on the gas it revs up to about 3000 rpms then jumps foward and moves plese someone help

Sounds like it's very low on auto tranny fluid. Just in case you didn't know, you have to check the fluid with the car running and preferably warmed up. With the engine running, pull the stick, wipe clean, put back in and pull out. Now read the stick. If low on fluid, you will need to buy a transmission funnel if you don't already own one. You put the funnel in the dip stick hole to fill with fluid.

Above post if for Rlupski. Forgot there are multiple people on this thread.

my car starts but wont reverse or accelerate.. I push the gas pedal and it revs but no movement.. checked the trasnsmission fluid it was low.. could it be that?

The low fluid would cause a delay in going into gear. Probably made the car go into limp mode. Fill it up and see if she runs right. May have to unhook the negative battery cable for a few minutes to reset everything.

I have a 2001 Honda Accord EX. My car is doing the same exact thing. Only when my gas is under half a tank so I have an idea it may possibly be the fuel filter or injector!

If you had a bad injector, I would think it would do it all the time. You may have a bad fuel filter or the fuel pump may be getting weak. Try a filter change first. If it still acts up, have your fuel pressure tested. You may also have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Is the check engine light on? If so, bring to Autozone and have the error codes read. Post the codes back here.

I have a 2002 Camry that I recently took to auto zone because my engine light is on and I've been experiencing jerking when I try to accelerate.... Here's the codes given to me P0100 & P0171

PO100 is a faulty MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. The PO171 is lean on bank 1. Before spending money on a new MAF sensor, buy a can of MAF cleaner by CRC and remove your MAF sensor and spray down the components. Check the connections for any corrosion. Check your air filter also. If dirty, replace. Look for any vacuum hoses that may have fallen off or have broken. As the lean on bank 1 issue, the most common cure is replacing the forward O2 sensor. (Oxygen sensor) A bad MAF sensor can also trip the PO171 code as well, so I would first clean your sensor and then disconnect your negative battery terminal for a few minutes and see if it will clear the code and make your check engine light go away. If it doesn't, you may have to replace your MAF and forward O2 sensor.

Ramona, here are a couple of videos to help you out.............................. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TO7ZC5N-aA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5d2LonVb7_Q

Thank u! Reelin68 will do tomorrow

I have an 89' ford mustang and my car wont start. When i try to start it, it wont cut on. A few days ago i was coming home from work going about 45 and i stopped at a light. My car cut off and when i cut it back on it was acting like it was getting no gas. It would rev up but i had to pump just to get it to move 10-15 mph. Now it wont start at all, please help.

Sounds like your fuel pump died. Remove gas cap. Put your ear to the hole. Have someone turn the key to the accessory position. Can you hear the fuel pump hum? If not, you have a fuel pump issue.

I had my 02 sensor changed today and much hasn't changed with the jerking..... I bought the maf cleaner but mechanic told me it wasnt necessary to use??! So I don't know what to do next

I guess I'll replace MaF sensor because my engine light is still on~

Did the code for the O2 sensor go away? I would at least try to clean it rather than replace it. Of course he doesn't want you to clean it. He would rather sell you a new one and charge you labor to put it in. I take it you're not doing the work yourself? That's why he doesn't want to clean it. I mean what's it going to hurt? If it doesn't work out, just replace it later.

I don't know if oxygen sensor code went away..... I'm definitely cleaning Maf. I don't wanna replace if it's not necessary

Hi, I read this and am seeking some help as well, I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am with the same issue as the original post. I drove to the store fine, but when leaving I put it in drive and when I presses the gas it slowly moved. I pressed the gas harder and it moved a little faster but the engine was reving up. Reverse, and the manual 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear worked. I drove home using the manual gears. Today I got in the car and it seems fine, but I would hate to have this problem away from home again.

Pull the tranny stick. If the fluid is brown and burnt smelling, then you should just have the tranny rebuilt. An automatic transmission has hundreds of parts in it. Any one of them could go bad. There's no easy fix. Just go on Youtube and type in "How and automatic transmission works", you'll see what I mean. Even if you get it flushed and put some fancy tranny oil in it, you may get an extra 500 miles out of it. But in the end, you will be getting it rebuilt. If you have a check engine light on, get the codes scanned. If you have a power train code, that will be your only saving grace.

Hi I have a 2002 Toyota Camry when I turn the car in the morning the accelerator wouldn't respond when I press the gas the more I push the pedal it did star my car would jump a lot forward with acceleration for all 10 seconds...someone told me to buy a Lucas and put it I did but still do the same and have a knocking sound please help

If check engine light is on, get the codes read. You may have a bad throttle motor. As for the knocking sound, if it's coming from the transmission or the engine, you should bring it to a shop and have it looked over. It may be a bad motor mount or transmission mount when the car surges. Here is a video explaining how the throttle works on the newer cars. As you can see, there are many parts than can be giving you the problem..................................................................... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bvH9Sv7GkQ

Hello I have a 98 GMC Jimmy. I just had the transmission replaced about a month ago. A few days ago, I was leaving for work but my truck wouldn't go into reverse. After a few tries, it finally kicked into reverse. I noticed that around 30 mph, it revved up & the rpms shot up. Then this morning,lt felt like I was going to run out of gas but I had a full tank. So I'm driving down the highway when all of a sudden the engine just revvs and I couldn't go faster than 30mph. I tried to manually shift. I worked for a few min but then revved again. managed to get off of the highway, into a parking lot. Any ideas?? I checked the transmission fluid & its full.

Was it a salvage yard tranny or a new rebuild from a tranny shop?

My car won't accelerate when press the gas to go into drive or reverse it's a delay 3 4 seconds then jerks and jumps started out of no where and no check engine light on

Kels,what is your make, model and year?

2002 Mitsubishi galant

If no check engine light, I would start by buying some MAF cleaner by CRS. Remove your MAF and spray it down. If no improvement, buy some throttle body cleaner clean your throttle body and Idle Air Control valve. Also inspect your vacuum lines. May not hurt to throw in some new plugs and fuel filter if you haven't done a tune up lately. Post back with results. Good luck!

Is this something I can do myself

Yes. Get on youtube and just type in things like "cleaning MAF sensor. May not be for your exact car, but you will get the idea. Same goes for cleaning the throttle body. If you don't want to actually remove it, just spray some cleaner into the intake.

Hi all! I have a 2005 Nissan Murano that isn't accelerating/revving up while in park. I was sitting in my car and it started to sound funny, so I tried to rev it up by pushing the gas pedal. Nothing. I put it in drive and hit the gas pedal. Nothing. But the car was still on & idling! So, I turned it off for a few minutes and it started right up. I hit the gas pedal a little & it revved right up. But, now I'm scared to drive it! (About two months ago, I was sitting in traffic with my foot on the brake, and out of nowhere the car started to accelerate! Even with my foot on the brake! I almost ran into the car in front of me. I put it in neutral & it went crazy... Rpms went into the red zone. After it stopped... It ran fine & hasn't done that again. But after today's incident, I wonder if these incidents are related?) Any & all help is GREATLY appreciated!

PhDiva, if no check engine light, I would start by cleaning the MAF. (Mass Air Flow) sensor. It may be dirty or corroded. I believe your throttle plate is electronically controlled. You may want to grab someone and see if your throttle plate is operating when you hit the pedal. You may need to swap out the entire throttle body to fix the issue if it's not opening.

I got a question..I just bought a 2000. Honda accord coupe v6..I drove it to work and everything was fine but then when i got home out of nowhere when i accelerated it would accelerate reallly slow and the revs would go up...It has the check engine light on and also a brake something light..also when parked sometines the revs start going crazy but i think that is because a hose isfuckd up

Ohhh and i forgot to say it was on D4.. IT DID that on D4 N D3..when i put it on 1st 2nd or reverse it would accelerate good..and the tranny is kind of fucked up im not sure if this has to do with it but after 3.5k revs the car doesnt accelerate more and cant shift

Go to Autozone and have your codes read. Sounds like you've got some real issues. Post them back here. Hopefully, it's not the tranny. Have you checked your tranny fluid? Remember, you have to check it with the engine running. I would check your hoses for vacuum leaks. You may be low on brake fluid which is causing the brake light to be on. It's probably due for a brake job.

So I did it and it worked thanks

So my car started to do the same thing again and now the service engine soon light is on and what does that mean

That usually means that you need an oil change. How many things did you do on my list of suggestions?

When I let it sit then start it drives but still stalling not as bad but I just did the maf and throttle cleaning

Here's a link I found with pretty much your issue. Sounds like Mitsubishi has tranny problems with the Galants. You may want to bring it in and have it tested...................................................................................... http://www.carcomplaints.com/Mitsubishi/Galant/1999/transmission/ca r_wont_move_when_in_gear.shtml

Hopefully you're not suffering from the common transmission failure of some Galant owners. If you noticed improvement after cleaning the throttle body and MAF, maybe you should find someone to help you remove the throttle body and really clean it as well as your Idle Air Control valve. You may have the electronically controlled throttle plate in yours. Not familiar with Mitsubishi's. You may also want to check out your EGR valve as well.

I remove the negative cable from battery and check engine light went off

Was it a check engine light or a maintenance required light? You said in your post it was a maint. light. That should be for an oil change. If the CEL is on, you should get the codes scanned.

It says service engine soon

It's doing it like when I get off the freeway

I would say you have a bad throttle position sensor or a bad MAF. If either of those are bad, it should be throwing a code. Maybe you should go to Autozone and have them do a scan. Hopefully it will give you a couple of codes so you won't be replacing expensive parts for nothing.

Auto zone n California doesn't do that

It's acttin fine now so I don't no I'm going to try clean the Iacv and egr

Reelin06 hope you can help me, i have a acura tl 2000 v6 , when i drive the car over 40 miles and press the gas is like he doesnt get it contact with it and it doesnt do nothing after 2 or 3 seconds he react again

And it had the check engine on before that issues , they been telling me it would be the transmision, can you help me out plz

If you have the check engine light on, I would first have the codes read. You could have a bad throttle position sensor. But no sense in replacing parts until you know what is bad. You can inspect the throttle cable to make sure it's not binding up. Post the codes here and one of us will look them up.

I have a 2002 Infiniti Q45 about a week ago I had a problem with the car I would press on the gas and it would not accelerate. After about 10-20 seconds it would just kick in full force and accelerate fast and was fine I would drive and the car would start shaking a few seconds later the same problem petal to the floor no acceleration than it just kicks in so I turned the car off and it wouldn't start back up. Took it to a mechanic he said it was my starter. Got the starter replaced about a week ago and yesterday I had the same problem again shaking than no acceleration than turned car off wouldn't start back up. Have to get a Jump to make it home than same problem. Battery alternator and starter brand new so no way they are the problem. Any ideas what is going on??

Keshia, first thing, change mechanics! That guy is taking you to the cleaners. If your car doesn't accelerate, it's not the starter. Is your check engine light on by chance? Usually a problem like that is transmission or a throttle position sensor. But if either of those went bad, you should have the check engine light on.

Took to a mechanic he said it was transmission but my car was never shifting funny or anything drove just fine I cleaned the throttle and mag with the cleaners and drove just fine then just stopped at light wouldn't accelerate car was still on car turns on fine

Took to a mechanic he said it was transmission but my car was never shifting funny or anything drove just fine I cleaned the throttle and mag with the cleaners and drove just fine then just stopped at light wouldn't accelerate car was still on car turns on fine

Did this mechanic guy scan your car for any codes? If so did he bother to write them down for you? If he bothered to do it, he should have come up with something. Like a #2 misfire, bad TPS etc....check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cq_SuYNszgI

He said there's one misfire and speed señor on transmission

You might consider checking the accelerator/transmissin(automatic) cables and see if they are in the same position as when the car was bought (the cables pass through a rubber grommet mounted in front of the air/fuel intake Putting them off just a little bit, probably done by a mechanic when you had your car serviced, will cause the exact problem that you describe. Check the color of the cables, if they have been moved that part of the cable that was inside the grommet it will have a like new appearance while that part that was out in the 'weather' will have a duller appearance. A friend of mine had taken her car to an 'honest but pricy' mechanic near where she lives-I began to have the same symptoms after taking our car to a Toyota Dealership and I described my symptoms to her, she shouted, "But that is exactly the way my car is running!" I suspect that her car though old is in emasculate condition and that 'honest' mechanic wants her to sell it to him for a 'song' so he can 'fix' it and sell it to someone else.

Kels, the VSS is located down on the transmission. Just in back of the battery tray a little bit. It's a small sensor. You can buy one from Rockauto. They run from $60-$90. The misfire is probably just a bad coil pack.

This one has actually been pulled out of the hole. It's just sitting on top of it. Looks like it's held in by one bolt.

But would this be causing my car to not accelerate and stall

It usually makes your RPM's go kinda nuts. That would make it shift funny more than stall out. A bad coil pack or two would make it stall out. You can buy a wire tester that clamps right to the wire. It lights up with every spark pulse. Not sure how much they are. They do make cheaper ones that plug into the end of the wire and spark so you can see it. Have you pulled a wire yet and looked into the hole with a light to see if it's full of oil? That's what was causing the problem in the last video I sent you. Worth a quick look.

hello. my girlfriend has the same problem with the 2005 toyota camry i went to auto zone with her they scanned the codes and so far i got 2 codes.p 2103 and p 2112. p 2103 is throtle acuator control motor circuit high imput the second code is p2112 throtle acuator control system stuck close now she does have a cousing that works a mechanic in honda dealer he was going to fix it for her tha dude end up buying the gas pedal because the pedal has a sensor that is attached to i was thinking that the problem was the throtle control i think i was right so far becuase the par th dude bought did not work. now hes buying something that cost about 900 dollars i dont know what he s is buying unless the throtle cost that much any suggestions maybe in something simple so far i cleaned the throttle but it still not workin

Mrguerra, I have heard that the newer throttle bodies are electronically controlled. I imagine that it's a faulty throttle body motor which controls the butterfly. Most people have to replace the entire throttle body. The old ones were cable controlled off the pedal. Check out the TSB's for the following: http://www.toyotaproblems.com/tsbs/Camry/2005/

Hello I have 2002 Toyota camry just today during lunch I started the car no problem but when I tried to reverse I pressed gas and after a sec it jumped backed same when I drove forward it started to roll back had to press the gas for a few to make it jump forward there's no check engine light

Angel, you may be low on tranny fluid. Start the car. Pull the tranny stick with the engine running. Wipe stick clean. Put back in and pull out. Read level on stick. If low, you will need to buy a transmission funnel. The funnel goes into the dipstick hole. Add fluid and recheck with the car running.

Just added that's not it I recently added fluid

The 2002 Camry has quite a bad rep for having the tranny fail at the 100k-130k range. The only info I could find (other than complaints) was the possibility of the Throttle Position sensor being out of adjustment or a bad shift solenoid. For a shift solenoid to be replaced, the entire tranny doesn't have to be rebuilt.

I have a Nissan Altima 2005 today I started it up drove it backwards put it in drive gave it some gas and it didn't move anywhere.. the lights on the dashboard was flickering off and on (my battery light was on when I drove it the night before) what's confusing me is everyone one is saying its my alternator how can it be the alternator if the battery light is on? any suggestions on how could I fix this problem? Do I buy a battery or do I buy a alternator or both..?

The reason your battery light came on is because either the battery is bad and can't hold a charge, or the alternator is bad and not charging the battery causing it to die. What you need to do is jump the car, take it to an autozone and have them test the alternator with a volt meter. It should be putting out 14 volts. If it is, then it's your battery that's bad. If it is not putting out 14 volts, the your alternator needs replacement. Just make sure that all of your connections are clean and tight before doing any tests. You don't want to discover that it's just a dirty or loose terminal when you get all the way to the auto store.

I went to auto zone she told me that my volt was 10.64 and that my wires to the alternator was messed up she said get some one to rewire them.. and that I had a bunch of corrosion on the alternator to wear when I started the car that's what the alternator spit out so my question too you is do you think rewiring would do? are just buy a whole new alternator? (Thank you for your excellent advice I really appreciate it)

That sounds confusing. If your alternator is only putting out 10.6 volts, you can figure that out without wiring anything. If it's the original alternator, I would replace it. It's 10 years old. So what exactly needs the rewiring? The wires from the alternator to the battery? If you're going to have a shop do the work, they should be able to figure out if any wires need replacing due to corrosion, or if something is mis-wired . You may need new battery cables. If you live in a state with winter and road salt, they can take a beating after 10 years. Did she happen to put the volt meter on the battery as well?

The wires from the alternator to the battery needs to be rewired and she did do the volt meter on the battery and the battery itself was good but the alternator was draining the battery out..

Okay. If you're not dong the work yourself, I would have the shop put in a new alternator and have them replace the wires. Not many there to deal with.

Thank you so much I'm have the shop do it

I got the output speed sensor fixed it started driving again fine transmission not slipping but still hesitantion

I can't remember what you did. You cleaned the MAF and throttle body, replaced the speed sensor, and now everything is good except for the hesitation issue? That sounds like you still have that misfire issue. Did you replace your plugs and wires? The things that can cause a misfire are, Cam sensor, crank sensor, MAF sensor, IAC valve, broken vacuum lines, plugs, wires, coils. If I remember, you took it to the shop and they said you had a misfire. Apparently they never got a code for any of the above. Or if they did, they never fixed the problem. You cleaned your MAF and throttle body so we can rule those two out. I guess now it's either take it back for more codes or start slowly replacing parts.

I have a 2009 Nissan Versa. Driving it two weeks ago, at a light it didn't want to accelerate. I came on here, read the responses and checked the ATF. It was low, so I filled it. Seemed to fix the issue, car drove fine for two weeks. Yesterday, it started doing the same thing. My check engine light is not on, nor are any other warning lights. Thinking I may have an ATF leak, I went to check the ATF level until I can get it in, and the dip stick will not disengage. Both times this has covered, was within ten minutes of filling up the gas tank. Could it be a filter or pump?

I have a 95 Toyota celica I have been having problems when at a stop light and in drive my car would start to idle low and feel like it wanted to stall. I can't figure out what it is. Now when I press on the gas it won't accelerate. It takes for ever to get it to 20mph then it just kicks in and will sputter if I need to accelerate more. Exhaust sounds funny while driving as well. Where should I start?

I have a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited X v6 3.8L and noticed that I started to have problems with my car last night. When I left a store and put the car in reverse, I had to get the rpms up to 2k before it would jump / move. Then I shifted to drive and it did the same thing until I got moving above 25 mph. When I got back home I was not able to even move my car in neutral. I check my trans fluid and added half a quart, wasn't that low. The problem still persists. I also place the car in neutral and could not even move it (by pushing it). There are no check engine lights or any kinds of errors showing up. Any suggestions?

I have a 2001 Toyota camery le has about 250,000 + miles on it the other day I tried starting it up and wouldn't wanna turn on at all the battery was dead or anything so I got it towed to a mecanic shop they told me it could be the fuel pump so I bought a new one and they replaced it then the next day I drove it on the freeway and I was going 60mps but it didn't wanna go any faster than that I had to press down harder to maintain speed what could be the problem? And I added transmission fluid not long ago. Please help!!

How is it going i have a 2009 dodge journey that when i drive my car everything is fine except when i press the pedal to the floor it accelerates to 4-5 rpm and does not drive also my check engine light is not on

IsaiahP, You may have a clogged catalytic converter. I would remove the bolts that join the exhaust to the cat and separate one from the other. Take it for a drive and see if there's improvement. You will have to replace the gasket with a new one when you rebolt the exhaust and the cat back together.

ABlanco12, you have the good old Dodge curse going on! I would get rid of that car. Every Dodge owner I know of says they will never buy another one. Sounds like you have a bad sensor of some sort in the transmission. If you plan on sinking money into it, I would bring it to a tranny shop and see if they can pull some error codes then go from there.

John, I would start by removing the throttle body and tear it down. Thoroughly clean it with throttle body spray. I would also remove the Idle Air Control valve and clean that as well. Buy some MAF cleaner and spray down your Mass Air Flow sensor. If you haven't done a tune up in quite some time, I would do that as well. New plugs, wires, air filter, cap, rotor, fuel filter. If you need guidance, go to youtube. Tons of how to videos.

Brian, here is an answer to your question that I found on a Jeep forum: It could be as simple as the throttle to transmission cable badly out of adjustment. It could also be that the fluid level is too low or that you're using the wrong fluid; you must use ATF+4. The oil pump could be worn, requiring high revs before it builds enough pressure. Maybe the transmission hasn't been serviced as it should and the filter is blocked and/or the bands need adjustment. Finally, it could just be that the transmission is worn throughout and needs rebuilding. First, adjust the cable. Then, if there's any possibility it may have had any other fluid than ATF+4 added, have a shop completely flush and renew the fluid. Next, drop the pan and replace the filter and adjust the bands (do this afterwards if you're having the transmission flushed.

Kelly, try replacing the brake light sensor. Believe it or not, this is a common problem with the Versa not accelerating.

Please help my 2007 Toyota solara will not accelerate past 60 unless I'm going down hill..... I was told it maybe the gas cap because it hesitates then accelerators with the RPMs going to 3 or 4.....it also losses power when coming up a hill.... I took it to autozone and the codes p0420 and c104 ....im unsure about the c code but I looked it up and it said something about stop light switch. ...can someone please help is it the actual gas cap, oxygen sensor, or the catalyst system

Reelin68, took it in and yes, it was a break light sensor. Running great now. Thank you!

Kelly, glad you got it fixed!

Solaragonebad033, I have had the O2 sensors go bad before, but I have never lost power due to a bad one. I would say you may have a bad Cat that is also throwing the O2 sensor off. I would take the bolts out of the exhaust where it meets the cat and separate the two. Take it for a spin and see if you get full power back. If you do, you will have to replace your cat. Try Rockauto. I have used them for cats and O2 sensors with no problems.

I have a 2001 kia spectra. It was also stalling and they said it was the fuel pump got that fixed and then it ran good for a month maybe. Now its horrible it will not even move! When it is in park it will stay on but as soon as you put it in drive and try to give it gas it starts spitting and goes dead. It also takes a while to start still even after getting it from the mechanic.... Please help!

Ebony, is the check engine light on? If it is, you should find someone with a code reader and see what error codes it's throwing. If no CEL, you will just have to guess. You may have a bad throttle position sensor, Mass Air Flow sensor, plugged EGR valve. Before replacing any big ticket items, you may just want to start by getting some throttle body cleaning spray and Mass Air Flow cleaning spray. Spray down the inside of your throttle body. Next remove your Mass Air Flow sensor and spray down the contacts. If no idea how to do it, just get on Youtube. Plenty of videos. The cleaning sprays will run you about $20. Post back with results.

Thanks

Hello! I'm in need of help asap! I'm having about the same problem Carlos asked. So About a week ago my car got stuck in a ditch and my boyfriend accelerated(trying to get out) until the check engine light came on. We finally got it out and when we would accelerate it would jerk, rev, and only reverse. After several hours I go to use the car and still have the same problem? I was also going to take it to autozone but it wouldn't go forward at all! So he takes it to a mechanic the next day and the mechanic says its a part from the transmission won't be to spendy. A couple days go by and tells us it needs a whole new transmission and it'll cost about 2,000 with labor and everything else. Can I get some help to figure out what's wrong and second opinion?? Don't want to get ripped off.. 2007 Toyota Camry LE

Well first off, that mechanic should have scanned the engine for codes and then inform you on what they were. Since he never did, I would be suspect of this guy. If you read Carlos' post above, his car had two error codes. I can't say for sure if yours would be the same without running a scan. I highly doubt that you need a whole new transmission. Funny, that it would suddenly decide to blow up after being stuck in a ditch. You may have damaged your VSS (vehicle speed sensor) when stuck. These sensors are usually located on the transmission. This may be why the mechanic first said that it won't be too expensive. Then later changed his tune when he figured he could just change out the VSS and charge you 2k for a new tranny when in fact he never changed out the tranny. Only the VSS sensor. If I were you I would get a second opinion. Or if your boyfriend is good with cars, have him change out the VSS and see if anything changes.

Yes that's exactly what I told my boyfriend like why all of a sudden is he wanting to charge us 2k. And that's when I decided to do my own research and found this site. Unfortunately he doesn't know much about cars but I told him to ask his dad, he knows more about cars. But my brother and brother-in- laws checked it and said it could be a sensor, but not sure because it has to get scanned but we'll be going very soon to get the codes and I'll inform you as soon as I get them. Thank you very much for your help

Your welcome! And yes, please post back with what you find. Maybe Carlos will chime in with how he fixed his car as well.

Hi Reelin68, I asked my boyfriend if he could get the codes today and also we'll be taking the car to a different mechanic. I'll get back to you as soon as I get the codes. Thanks

I have a 94 ford ranger. It had a small transmission fluid leak. Was just keeping fluids checked till we had time to change seals and gaskets. My teenage son, drove it with too low of transmission fluid. Now , it goes in reverse with no problems, but from a dead stop doesn't want to accelerate forward. Especially after motor is warmed up. From cold engine will go into drive and shifts and goes fine but if you have to stop it doesn't go forward just doesn't want to shift into drive from a stop. If you can ever get it moving, it's shifting out fine. Not sure if this is transmission filter clogged, torque converter, or transmission. Please help !

My 2004 Toyota Tacoma has been doing the same thing as CARLOS DRS. It's been going on for over a year. Took it to shop and he cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor with some spray. Worked great for 6 months. Now it's worse then ever. We changed plugs, wires, mass air flow sensor, 02 sensor, fuel filter..........Engine light went out after changing 02 sensor, but still having issues. Maybe the throttle sensor? So tired of putting money into it and nothing seems to work. My frustrations are getting the better of me.

Is yours a 2.4, 2.7 or the 3.4 V6? Do you know if your throttle body is controlled by a manual cable of is it an electronic throttle?

Did some research and have found that the 2004 has a known throttle body issue. The throttle body will fail and cause all the symptoms that you are experiencing. It also will not throw a code. When the CEL was on, it was only for the bad O2 sensor. The bad news is, you will have to replace the throttle body. It won't be cheap. There's one on Ebay at the moment for $375. Just be sure to ask the seller if it's compatible with your engine size and transmission. Let me know if put on a new one, if it fixed the issue. Thanks!

Just a note, the two above replies are for JillybeanK.

Question: My 01 Chevy Impala did the same exact thing today. I got an oil change this morning & everything was fine. Then I got on the highway going about 55mph and I tried to accelerate and the car wouldn't (sounded like it was in neutral) but actually was in drive. So I got over in the emergency lane & tried to reverse and gas , and drive 1-2-3 & still wouldn't reverse. Checked the tranny fluid and its full (but it's kinda brownish). Bought the car last October & i don't know when the last time the tranny fluid was changed. Can you please give me some info on this matter ?

Vonte, if your check engine light is on, I would have the error codes scanned. It may have thrown a transmission code that could narrow down the issue. If no check engine light, at the very least, I would get the fluid changed and have the filter screen cleaned. If still shifting bad after fluid change, you will most likely have to bring it to a transmission shop. You could try changing out your VSS or vehicle speed sensor. You might get lucky and that could be your issue as well. http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/vehicle-speed-sensors.html

The check engine light is on , i will get the codes scanned and let you know what they are .

Ok, sounds good!

Hi Reelin68, You've helped so many people I figured you might be able to help me too! I have a similar problem to the original one posted by carlos. However, a CEL doesnt come on, but the battery light comes on. At first, the car stayed at the constant speed it was at then the pedal stopped working, but now the pedal doesn't work at all, but the car still can coast at around 5 or 10 mph. It is a 2008 Jeep Compass 4cylinder. I had just replaced my battery around 6 or 7 months ago, so I don't think it would be the problem. Thanks!

pdebb, is your battery light is coming on, that is most likely an alternator issue. If possible, have someone test the voltage of the alternator. It should be 14 or more volts. If you live close to an auto parts store, they will usually come out and test it for you. As far as your no acceleration issue goes, try this test: Start your vehicle, put in drive and go, if vehicle refuses to accelerate, move shift lever to N and stomp on the accelerator until your RPM's hit 4000. Now let the RPM's go back down to regular idle. Now shift back to drive and see if you suddenly have a responsive pedal. If you have normal acceleration back, post back and let me know. Thanks.

Pdebb, have your tried that little trick of stomping on the pedal and bringing the RPM's up to 4000 yet?

I have a bmw 325i and when I press the pedal it won't accelerate properly I have to make the rpms go up for it to move. The other day I felt that it was going to cut off on me. I changed the fuel pump six months ago. I just don't know what can be wrong. Can you please help

BMW 325i 2001

My first guess would be low transmission fluid. Start the car and pull the transmission stick, wipe clean. Put stick back in, then pull it out and read the level. If level is good, I would bring it to the shop and see if there are any error codes to be scanned. If fluid seems dark in color, I would have the transmission serviced. If the car has any stored error codes, it may be a bad speed sensor or transmission control module.

Hello really don't know that much about cars. Im a young female I have a 96 Bonneville. The car use to run fine. I mena when I go fast it would shake but other then that it was fine. Well one day on my way to lunch I stop at the light. Car still in drive. When the light turn green it wouldn't go. I push it over to a car lot and let it sit. This was around 8pm. I got off at 1 and went back up there and my car crank up and drove home with no problem. Took it to the shop he told me I had to fix the cadiallc convert to get my engine light to go off. That was 600 right their. Then he told me no its your transmission so he sent me to another shop. Well the guy been in buss. for 20 years plus and he look at it and was like its the filters so he change that. it came out to be almost 300. So I went home drove it no problem. Went to work and it felt like when I hit the gas it didn't want to go. So its been sitting for two months. I drive it down the street to babysitter which stay three minutes away. I scare to drive it. I took out a loan for 2000 because everyone said it was the transmission, but I spent it trying to fix my car. It seem like everyone is getting over on me. Im not made of money, I don't want to throw it away I just put all this money in it.what is wrong? If it was my transmission would it be signs before it broke down? Would it moved after it didn't at the light? Imthinking about change the transmission fluid. Maybe I just needed my car to adapt to the change in the filter I mean it is an old car. Plzs help me ????

D.j, Did a little research and found that your model has a known problem with the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) failing, as well as the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor failing. I would replace the CPS first. You can purchase one through Rock Auto. Fairly inexpensive. They are between $20-$70 depending on which one you buy.You can try to clean your MAF with some spray cleaner. You can purchase the cleaner at any auto store. Plenty of youtube videos on how to clean your MAF sensor. Post back with results if and when you replace your CPS. If your check engine light comes on again, have the error codes read and post them back here. We can look up the codes and let you know what is wrong. This is what both of those mechanics should have done when your light was on before.

Thanks Guys!!! Have being battling with similar problems for a over two weeks now. read about checking and replacing burnt fuse and voila'! my car is back on the road. ouch sorry haven't explained my problem..well my will start just fine and CEL came on but car wont accelerate. I ran OBD system and had a generic P0300 code. checked MAF sensor, coils and plugs, all were working just fine. so checked my fuse box saw the burnt fuse. its a 2007 Camry.

Reelin68 thanks so much will try and get back to you with the results.

I have a 2003 infiniti G35. Problem started a month ago. I stop at a traffic light n the car won't accelerate when I step on the gas when my turn to go comes. It'll drag even when the gas pedal is floored then comes back to normal then back to the problem again when I stop. I have been reading these posts n went to Autozone. I got the following codes:P1564,P1759 and P1769. Any help what these are exactly so that I don't run to a mechanic and get swindled? The Check Engine Light is on. I did oil change 2 months ago.

Timona, P1564 is a faulty ASCD switch or your cruise control. It's sending a bad electrical signal to your cars computer. P1759 is a faulty front brake solenoid valve. Either the valve is bad, or it's getting improper voltage. Front brake solenoid valve is controlled by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) in response to signals sent from the PNP (Park Neutral Position) switch, vehicle speed sensor and accelerator pedal position sensor (throttle position sensor). Gears will then be shifted to the optimum position. P1769 is - Faulty High and Low Reverse Clutch Solenoid Valve - High and Low Reverse Clutch Solenoid Valve harness is open or shorted - High and Low Reverse Clutch Solenoid Valve circuit poor electrical connection There is a factory service bulletin for the 2003–2010 Infiniti vehicles with 5-Speed A/T for the P1769 code. The bulletin recommends replacing the Transmission Valve Body to fix the problem. It may be possible that all of these codes are coming up due to a bad throttle position sensor. Notice in the description for P1759 it states that the brake solenoid is controlled from signals sent from the PNP, Vehicle speed sensor, and the throttle position sensor? From what I have found on other forums, your model has had problems with bad throttle bodies, throttle position sensors and pedal position sensors. Your pedal position sensor appears to be fine since it hasn't thrown a code. I suspect if you drop it off to the dealer, you may be looking at a new throttle body or TPS.

Reelin68. I now understand. But do you know how much am looking at in terms of repair cost? I'll still head to the delear or mechanic with what I've learnt here and keep you guys updated

It will all depend on how long it takes to diagnose and what really needs repair. If it were my car, I would purchase a new throttle body from Rockauto for around $120 and install it myself. But that would just be a guess. The thing with error codes is they give you a general direction of where to start looking but never give a definitive answer. It will all depend on how much testing they will have to do and what parts need replacement. If you bring it to a dealer, I would expect to pay upwards of $800-$1000. Dealers always charge top dollar for parts.

I have a mitsubishi legnum and it does exactly the same happens everyday aroumd 10kms down the road the engine light comes on and i loose power. I push the gas pedal to the floor and it revs high but moves around 15mph if that. I took it to a mechamic and he told me he would be chasing a tail. Idk what to do now.

I have a Toyota Yaris 2006 and it has the same problem but that began after my transmission box was replaced since mine developed some mechanical issues it couldn't accelerate as well. Actually it would for a while then when I add acceleration it will just not add speed but raise the engine sound. So I was advised to buy a new box since my one got burnt according to the mechanic. Now this box does not accelerate no matter how much I put pressure on the pedal and its dripping the transmission oil where the engine and the gearbox meet. And I realized that the VSS is not connected anywhere when I asked this mechanic told me it doesn't affect anything and it does not have the engine light on... Please help I already lost much on this.

hey I have a camry 99 xle v6 and hesterdag my car got me to my friends house then my battery light came on my ac buttong kept flashing, and my car wouldnt rev I would press the gas and it would sort of rev I tried connecting the jumper canles since I saw the battery light was on and it turned on and it wouldrev with the cables plugged up but after I unplugged them it would slowly die please I need help

Cgomez65, if your battery light is flashing, typically it means you have a bad battery or bad alternator. If you have a volt meter, test the hot side of your alternator. Should be putting out 14 volts. Charge the battery and put a volt meter on that as well with the engine off. Should be 12 volts or pretty close. If less than 11.8 I would replace it especially if it's over 5 years old. As far as your A/C, try a new relay first. If still flashing, you will most likely need a charge of gas. As for your hesitation issue, I would try some throttle body cleaner, and MAF cleaner. Check out youtube for videos on cleaning your throttle body and MAF sensor. Post back with results.

Reelin6. I went to the mechanic but they advised me to go to the dealer. I go to the dealer and they find out that the transmission seal is what was causing all the problems as it was missing. They replaced it at a cost of $506. My car is all set now.

I can't for the life of me figure out how a transmission seal would set off all of those codes. But hey, if it's fixed, that's all that matters!

Supry_law1, If your tranny is leaking oil, I would bring it back to the shop that replaced your old gear box and have them fix the leak. The acceleration issue seems to be a faulty electronic throttle body. The Yaris is notorious for poor acceleration. If your check engine light is on, I would have the codes read first. It may be a bad or dirty Mass Air Flow sensor or Throttle position sensor. Post back with results......

2007 Honda Odyssey with less than 50k miles. Early tonight was making a strange whining sound. Drove a few places. Later came out and van did not want to move in reverse. It shifted into reverse, just wouldn't physically move. Had to put in neutral and push out of parking space. It would move forward, yet acceleration was very slow. All the dash lights came on and my headlights were very dim. Finally, got it home and turned it off. Tried to restart and it cranked, but didn't turn over. Numerous people keep saying it's the alternator. My question is: How can the alternator effect the van by not wanting to move in reverse? Thank you for any advice you can offer me.

Christene, the dimming of your lights is a sure sign of a bad alternator or a bad battery. I would put a volt meter on the alternator and the battery to check the voltage. You will first have to charge the battery. I'm not a Honda expert, but your poor shifting tranny may be due to low voltage as well. Your tranny has many electrical components as well. Figure out if your battery or alternator is causing the issue, then see if your tranny shifts correctly. Post back with results.....

Reelin68, I have a 2007 Kia Sportage that is having similar issues as some of your older posts. When I start driving, if I gun it, the car will rev all the way to 6K before shifting. Once it shifts, it goes back to normal until it shifts again and then it sputters like it isn't firing correctly. Once it gets thru the sputters it rides fine until I have to let off the gas and then try to excelerate again. Yesterday (21st of Sept) I was taking my daughter to work and the car would not accelerate after I stopped at a stop sign. I turned my car off and back on and it ran okay. I have changed the fuel pressure regulator and 3 of the 6 sparkplugs. I've cleaned the MAF and changed air filters. All to no avail. My car does have the CEL light on but it is refering to the O2 sensors. The CEL has been on for over 3 years. This problem started about a month ago. I had a mechanic hook it up to a better diagnotic tool and they said it had to do with a fuel line sensor. I don't even know what that is. Any idea?

Bivman07, I think what is giving you the issue is a bad TPS or throttle position sensor. Those are notoriously bad on Kia's. I would replace that and see how she runs. Post back with results.....

Reelin68, I can't thank you enough! It was exactly what you said. Fixed /replaced the alternator and battery and all is great again. Yay... I can go in reverse and forward at full speed. Again, thank you for everything!

Christene, glad to hear it all worked out for you! Happy to help!

I sincerely appreciate it, Reelin68!

Mine is a Nissan Tiida 2008 I have this similar issue of acceleration. Mine happens only at traffic when the car is moving very slow, suddenly seems to fall on neutral or car do not speed up despite accelerating. After restarting the car goes perfect fine even in traffic. I have taken to mechanic who could not find any issue. Nissan Dealer too said the car is perfect fine. I have to deal with this daily. Can anyone help me.

Reelin68, the issue with my sportage turned out to be all 6 of my cylinders misfiring. When I changed the front 3 sarkplugs, they were the wrong kind so they didn't work. Got it fixed though. Thanks for the suggestion.

Ok so I have a camry 99 v6 stickshift and I just stumbled upon a similar problem, however my car feels weak; I have to leave the gas pressed in a little bit. If I push the accelerator in too much my rpms move up while my speed slowly increases, any suggestions on what could be wrong?

Cgomez65, if you're pushing on the gas really hard and the RPM's are going up, and you are hardly moving, that means you need a new clutch. On a stick, as soon as you release the clutch and press the peddle, you should be moving pretty quick, especially in first gear.

THanks I thought it be that I wasn't sure tho cuz my gears r really soft like when i shift it's smooth, anyways which part should I replace?

Well if your RPM's are going way up, but your going really slow, you will have to change your clutch plate, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. You should be able to buy a total kit. Try Ebay or Amazon.

its auto transmission.

Sunilkk, I have read other forums, and like most forums, they go on forever and at the end, nobody ever says what the solution was to fix it. I only ran across one and what fixed his no acceleration ordeal was a new fuel pump. But that was also in a Maxima. In your case it could be the fuel pump, TPS, or the throttle body may be bad. If check engine light is on, I would get the codes read first to narrow it down.

please help me I have a 2003 camry 2.4 lt automatic. it has 38000km on it. The car has sey around for 2 years without being started or drivin before I got it. I have been driving it for about a moth and a half and the problem I'm having only started about a week ago. When I go to accelerate it will only rev up until I push on the gas pedal so far then rpm's drop right down to 0. If i slip it into nutruel then back into drive I can keep going along but only if I press very lightly on the gas. If I have it in park and just hold the pedal to the floor it just jumps up and down from 2500 rmp's to 0. but that is not the case when the car is in drive. all the fluids are ok, the air filter is quiet dirty and the engine light is on but I didn't get to put a code reader on it yet. If anyone has any advive as to what it could be please let me know.

380000km not 38000km. sorry :P

Thank reelin68. In the meantime before your response, I had again taken to the same mechanic with the video of the situation. And this time he promptly recommended to change the Fuel Pump, Ignition coils and spark plugs. This is a expensive affair!

This is a very detailed question. Only read if your serious and knowledgable thanks. Can Somebody help me? I've done tuns of research and could find nothing. I have a 1988 Honda prelude 2.0 Si with manual transmission. Ever since I got the car from a private party, I notice the the car started having trouble turning on at night. The more I drove it. The less likely it tuned on when off. Every time I little sit for while it turns back on. Happens during the day and is worse at night. One day I raced another car and downshifted from 4th to 2nd and when my rpms got to 4500 to 5000 my battery light stated flickering and my car made a screech noise then my lights head lights blew out. So I tested the high beams and high beams worked and got home safe. But no low beams. I got a tune up replace battery replaced belts to no avail. Could only go to 4500 rpm before battery lights flickers and stutters my car. One day car doesn't start. Fried ecu. Changed it car starts but still same problems. Now my car just shuts off randomly while driving. And struggle to turn it on the more o drive it. Tested fuel pump and works fine. Left car running and removed battery terminals and car was still running fine. Everyone says my alternator is fine. Got a new battery anyways. Now I don't drive my car because it turns off randomely. Does. Anybody know what it could be? Serious helpers only. Thanks in advance. If you anybody think then can help feel free but this is a tough one. At least for me.

88Ludesi, the two things I would concentrate on would be the ignition and fuel pump relay. Have you noticed when it dies, do the dash lights stay on, or do they cut out also? If dash lights are cutting out, I would suspect the ignition. When the car dies again, have someone turn the key to accessory while you listen for the fuel pump to hum. I have seen the fuel pump relays be intermittent. I know you said you tested the pump, but it may have been "working" just for the time you tested it.

Sunilkk, If that mechanic wants to change out that many parts, he clearly has no idea what the problem is. If he had tested things properly, he should have put a pressure regulator on the fuel rail and monitored the system for drops in pressure. If he found a fuel issue, he would have no reason to replace plugs and coils. He's just randomly guessing, which is going to cost you a ton of money. You can change the plugs yourself. After you change the plugs, take a water bottle and mist down your plug wires and coils. If bad or cracked, you should hear some snapping and popping noises. Especially if you do it at night. You should see some spark jumping and the idle will change. If no issues after misting the wires, then you just saved yourself some money there. Besides, IF it were your wires or coil, the car would be "skipping" and running poorly especially when it rains out. The car should never just "die" or slow down without skipping and bucking first. You should also have a check engine light on with a misfire code. Since you did take it to a couple of places, they found no codes indicating any such things. Since you can shut the car off and restart it, and everything returns to normal, I would suspect it may be your Accelerator Position Sensor. Here's a description of what it does and how it works: The Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor is installed on the upper end of the accelerator pedal assembly. The sensor detects the accelerator position and sends a signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). Accelerator pedal position sensor has two sensors. These sensors are a kind of potentiometers which transform the accelerator pedal position into output voltage, and emit the voltage signal to the ECM. In addition, these sensors detect the opening and closing speed of the accelerator pedal and feed the voltage signals to the ECM. The ECM judges the current opening angle of the accelerator pedal from these signals and controls the throttle control motor based on these signals. Idle position of the accelerator pedal is determined by the ECM receiving the signal from the accelerator pedal position sensor. The ECM uses this signal for the engine operation such as fuel cut.

Scotiajoe82, I would get the codes scanned first thing to narrow down the issue. If the air filter is dirty, I would change that out. I would buy some throttle body cleaner and thoroughly spray it down and clean it. Remove it and tear it down as much as possible if you have any mechanical ability. If not, just spray the inside of it. Also remove your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve and spray it down as well. Then I would buy some MAF (Mass Air Flow) cleaner. Remove the MAF and spray down the contacts. You can go to Youtube for videos if you're unfamiliar. I would try these inexpensive attempts before trying to drive it any distance to get the codes read. Post back with error codes.....

P0305 was the code I'm hoping it's just a coil. I checked all the plugs and coils. the 3rd plug in from the right was all black and the others were not. So am hoping that is the problem. Is there any other things I should be doing??

Sorry it was (P0353)!!! code not P0305.

Here are the possible causes - Faulty spark plug 5 - Clogged or faulty fuel injector 5 - Faulty ignition coil 5 - Fuel injector 5 harness is open or shorted - Fuel injector 5 circuit poor electrical connection - Ignition coil 5 harness is open or shorted - Ignition coil 5 circuit poor electrical connection - Insufficient cylinder 5 compression - Incorrect fuel pressure - Intake air leak I would at a minimum, change the plug. A black plug should mean that it's getting too much fuel in that cylinder. You may want to replace that injector for that cylinder as well. The injector may be malfunctioning allowing too much fuel for that cylinder. If the coil wasn't firing, you should have noticed a good skip in the engine.

Scotiajoe82, Okay, that makes a difference then. These are the causes for that code: - Faulty Ignition Coil 3 - Ignition Coil 3 harness is open or shorted - Ignition Coil 3 circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) I would change the plug and the coil pack for #3.

there is a bad skip in the engine also.

Scotiajoe82, most likely due to the bad coil and plug. Easy change out.

thanks

Reelin68 - Hi, Thanks for your advise and for me it is very valuable. Also I notice this problem comes only after driving a few kilometers (around 4KM) at a traffic. If the traffic is clear and even if i get a traffic after driving for say 35Kms the car is perfect....strange for me.

Reelin68 my toms don't go way up it goes about 3 , 4 then stops and car accelerates until it gets to actual 3, r then I got to shift n does the same u understand?

rpms*

No, I don't understand. If you have a stick shift, and the RPM's go to 3000, is that in first gear? You make zero sense. Your RPM's should be about 700-800 RPM's at idle. Then you should push in the clutch and put it into first gear. Are you saying that it has to go as high as 3000 RPM's before it moves? Like I said in the previous post, if your car is at high RPM's and you are not accelerating, you need a new clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing.

Hi I have a 95 grand Marquis

Jtwatts, what is the problem with it?

My grand marquis accelerate real slowly and the coolant is in 2 of my spark plug hole and plus the coolant is in my jug bubbling with gases I believe please tell me what is going on??

Is the coolant IN the spark plug hole? Or just on the top of the plug hole? Big difference. If on top of the plug hole, you may have a cracked head. I would have it pressure tested first. Or it may just be spraying from a pressurized line. Check all anti freeze lines for cracks.

Reelin68 when my car dies the dash lights are still on. Ill be sure to check the things you mentioned. But also what's weird is that I can not rev higher than 5000 rpm no matter what.. When I do try to rev past that my battery light flickers, my headlights brighten up immediately, and my car screeches and stutters slowing down speed like if it wants to turn off, as soon as I drop below 4500 Rpm, everything goes back to normal and drives normally. The last time I forced the car past 5000 rpm to 7000 my headlights went out and only my high beams were functioning. Shortly after headlights stoped working. Had to replace them and have never dared to rev to 5000 rpms. As soon as I would hit 5000 I shift. Its like that with every gear. Any ideas ?

I wonder if there is a short in a harness somewhere that caused the ECU to fry or if your alternator is bad. An alternator can charge and still be bad. I would check compression just to be safe

88LudeSi, I would say that your alternator is fine, it's your voltage regulator that's bad. You can buy a new one and replace it yourself. The screeching is most likely due to a dry bearing on your alternator or a bad belt. You say that your dash lights remain on when the car quits. I would replace the fuel pump relay.

.

car is 2000 Honda accord v6.I got a question kind of non related..I need to do a smog check my car had a CEL on and i went to a guy he scanned it and gave me code p1106 Baro Sensor Performance. He took it out and i went out for a drive for like 20 miles and the light came back on..I googled it and it comes out to getting a new ECM at the dealer which is 1000+ and i cant afford that.My car is worth half that. So a while back my car would not go past 3.5k RPM and it ended up being a loose wire on the VTEC solenoid. Today I lifted the car up and taped those wires up as well as tightend them up with some pliers..I disconected the bbattery for 5 minutes then plugged out a fuse and my CEL went off..I went out for a 50 mile drive and the check engine light didnt come back on.My question is do i have to go to someone with a scanner to delete it from the Computer or am I good to go with that because i Heard that the problem stays on the computer. BTw i Live in California & they're really strict and nobody wants to "magically pass" your smog.

I know Cali is one of the toughest on emissions. If no CEL, they shouldn't hassle you as long as the car has completed a Drive Cycle. Here is an article and video explaining what a drive cycle is... http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Pass-Inspection-Complete-A-Drive-Cycle/

I have a Lexus 3s100 and when I bring my car to a stop and then press on my gas to go it won't go I have to change gears and then it will go it don't happen all the time it happens here and there I've checked my transmission fluid its full what could it be?

I hear something like a dumping sound 'duup' (that's how it sounds) on my front passenger wheel whenever I hit even a small bump on the road or when am nearly hitting 80mph.The mechanic said it's the front control arm. Any thoughts?.2003 g35 infiniti.

Hi, I have a 2004 Kia Rio. My problem is when I press on the gas the car moves very slow and the rpms are around 4000. I can have the gas pedal to the floor and it just creeps but the rims are raising. I've checked all the fluids and everything is fine with no leaks. The motor sounds like it's doing alot of work and getting nowhere fast. The check engine light is on but when I went to get the codes read I found out that the component that they plug into is missing so I can't pull any codes. I'm stuck and really don't want to pay a mechanic an arm and a leg just to find out its a sensor that I can change myself. Any ideas?

HI, My car did the same thing. I would push the gas and it would not accelerate. The mechanic changed the gas pump to a used gas pump. However, it still does the same thing and the engine light is still on and reads bank 1 sensor 1. I just got the part and am going to have them put that in. My car is a 2001 dodge neon. However, after I got my car back from the mechanic my car now reads and blinks the word FUSE where the speedometer is at. I don't know what is going on. I took my car to another mechanic and IDK. Are they in the right direction?

hey my car is an Oldsmobile Achieva S, i was driving to work one day after school and my car began to shake, i didnt know what it was so out of curiosity i opened the hood and the motor was shaking alot. Later after work i made it to my road when the car began slowing down and i would step on the gas and it wouldnt accelerate. i made it to my house and my car turns on for a few seconds and when i press on the gas it dies on me. Could it be a head gasket, water pump,? im hoping its not something too big or expenisve someone please help my name is Jesus if you can help me please reply on here/ email me @ jdog.vargas2@gmail.com thanks

Jesus, It wouldn't be the water pump. Your car would have overheated and you should have seen steam pouring out. If the head gasket was bad, you should see milky oil on the stick or white smoke from the exhaust. If the check engine light is on, I would bring it to an Autozone and have the error codes read. If no check engine light, check the simple things. Clean the MAF, clean the throttle body. Check for vacuum leaks, check battery connections and grounds, change your fuel filter, check air filter. Post back with findings. Also, what is the year and engine size?

I have my fingers crossed that Reelin68 (or anybody for that matter) is still checking this thread. I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix that started acting up a few days ago. I'm experiencing similar issues to many of the others on here. I have no problem starting my car, but, once I've stopped at a light or sign, and I try to accelerate, my car moves forward slowly and doesn't respond well to my pressing the gas. I have to pump the gas pedal several times to get a reaction. Usually it will hang back and then surge forward (sometimes it doesn't surge until after I have already let off of the gas). My car doesn't idle rough when I'm stopped. My car has even cut out on me as I'm driving down the road (dash lights and headlights stay on but steering wheel becomes VERY difficult to turn and gauges drop to 0). When it cuts out on me, I shut it down, wait about a minute and it starts right back up like nothing happened. Engine light is on and throwing code P0107 for Manifold Absolute Pressure/ Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input. A mechanically inclined friend of mine said that it could be EGR valve or a wiring issue. With that info, does anyone have any ideas for me? (BTW oil changed and fuel filter replaced about a month ago. Although I haven't checked my ATF yet)

Stefohknee, not sure if you're doing the work or a shop. Change out the MAP sensor and while you're in there, pull out the PVC valve and clean it with carb cleaner. Those tend to gum up and cause this issue that you're experiencing. If a shop is doing the work tell them to do those two things. Post back with results....good luck!

Thank you so much, Reelin68! My dad and I are going to do the work ourselves. I appreciate the advice, and I'll give it a try!

Please help.I have a 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2 automatic 4 cyl and at first the car was idleing high then few days later would stall when you cold start it but then got to the point you would have to keep giving it gas anytime you stopped at a red light or anywhere or it would die.cleaned the iacv(idle air control valve) with carb cleaner and still no fix so had sum1 change the tps(throttle positioning sensor) now the car idles fine but after driving about 15 mins the car won't accelerate past 30mph...it just hesitates and won't go any faster.there is no check engine light on or anything.can sum1 plz help

You may have a plugged cat converter. I would remove it and take a look inside. While off, take it for a spin and see if you have 100% of your power back. If cat is fine, remove your EGR valve and give that a good cleaning with carb cleaner. If plugged, that will really mess up your performance. Post back with results.....

Well we found out the tps didn't need to be replaced after all so bought that part for nothing,checked the cat converter and it was fine too.went ahead and ordered a new iacv to see if maybe the part is just bad considering we cleaned it but didn't replace it.the main issue is stalling unless you constantly give it gas and it really just acts like its starving for gas.I guess the iacv will be here Friday and we are gonna change that and see what happens as well as take reelin68 advice and go ahead and clean the egr valve when we put the New iacv on...praying that this Will fix the issue.will let you guys know the outcome.thanks for your time and help

Please help!!! My 2003 Acura TL doesn't want to accelerate when I press on the gas, and when I change gears it doesn't do anything. I'm afraid that the transmission might be bad. Please help!!!

AnahiCandi, Your car may be stuck in what is known as "Limp Mode". It's a protection feature. When the computer senses that something is wrong, it will shut the car down to a very slow speed so no major damage can occur. You will need to have it towed to the dealer and have them look at it. But on the down side, the 2003 Integras had notoriously bad transmissions. You may want to have the dealer run the VIN# for recalls. Here is a link: http://www.aboutautomobile.com/Complaint/2003/Acura/TL/Auto matic+Transmission

I have a 2007 aveo and I have a error code for the camshaft sensor, everyday I drive my car it dies once and today I was pulling away from the house and I hit the gas but was moving slowly so I kill the engine and restart it and it was fine, could that sensor be doing that?

ChaosSaber, Yes, a bad cam sensor will cause your car to stall out. Once replaced, the car should run normally.

I have a same issue with a 2006 Subaru Legacy. This past week, twice while driving my car the power when hitting the accelerator stops but car is still on. I pull over and put in park, RPMs rise to 3 or 4,000 with the check engine light and the cruise light flashing. When I got to turn the car back on, it takes a few seconds for the car to kick over but there is power back when I hit the accelerator but still with the check engine light on and cruise control light flashing but car runs smooth. The first time it happened, the check engine light was not on when I turned on the car several hours later. Any ideas?