Starts,Idols perfect Bogs down, no power upon acceleration 1997 1500,5.2 Gas,Auto.Could cause be bad Cat?

The first thing I would do is change the O2 sensor(s). They get dirty and misread, causing a run rich condition. This clogs a cat faster than anything, but no code as the sensor is working correctly from an electrical stand point. With a little luck, the cat will gradually unclog, although you may well need a new one at this point. A sure way to tell if this is the case is to pull a plug or two and see what they look like. If the electrode is black, it is rich. The other thing I would look at is your fuel filter. If it is not new, I would change it. It could be restricting fuel flow, causing the lack of power. I have had that happen after a dirty tank of gas. The other thing it may be is a defective pressure regulator. Again, if it restricts flow, you may be starving the engine under wider throttle settings. Good luck. Hope one of those ideas helps. Try the fuel filter first, as it is cheap and easy.

97 dodge ram does not have a fuel filter

It may just have a fuel pump

My 97 dodge ram is doing the same thing that the guy on the top is taking about. Put a new tps and the cat clean anything else thanks

New pump and my oil pressure drops at idle New pump and sensor for oil any ideas thanks

Oh no, 98,5.9 Samething

Anyone HELP!!! PLEASE, I get this weird back fire action going too, like it's gargling, afters it gets going it takes off, but city driving sucks! It even dies sometimes.

Burning gas would be Rich, Right. But it sounds lean like it's going to die or it dies.

Ignition coil? Mine did the same thing. Gave a new coil and it runs fine now

I had the same problem with my 98 ram. I replaced the Idle Air Control solenoid (which was stuck open) and replaced the catalytic converter. I found it was clogged by removing the sensor. Runs fine now.

Check for chewed wires. A squirrel chewed through mine. Good thing it stopped after the first one.

my 97 dodge when i give it gas seems to bog out.. and does not accelerate properly... feels like a misfire or something that is preventing it from properly accerate right

Wow 2 years and nobody has figured this one out? I'm having the same problem with my 97. IV replaced the Fuel pump/filter, tpcs, plugs, wires, cap, coil, cat seems fine...oh and I replaced the front o2 sensor. If anyone can help befor I light this truck on fire and watch it burn id appreciate it. Tonyotool@gmail please I really cant take much more of this pile making me feel like an ass everytime I drive it. Thanks

Ima try the iac next.

Your issue is your egr valve and throttle body. There is a carbon build up here this may help. http://www.f150forum.com/f6/insuffcient-egr- flow-p0402-problem-solved-100593/

I recently picked up a 98 Dodge Dakota v6 3.9 model. I'm having issues it starts up fine and idols smooth but has a slight hesitation when I slam the throttle down it slowly rises in rpms I can tell it's not right. Once I put it into drive I can literally hold the brake an floor it, it just chugs an has no power, if I were to put it into 4wd it has more takeoff power for sure very strange. It has new plugs, cap n rotor, new cat, tried tps sensor, checked for vaccum leaks, cleaned the throttle body, fresh oil, cleaned air filter, added injector cleaner to fresh fuel. Not sure what to do, any clue?

Sam Could be a clogged cat. My 97 dodge ram did the same thing. Check your cat.

Okay...94 RAM2500 5.9! I had same problems. Was mind boggling. I checked and changed everything . EVERYTHING. Recently, I removed intake system and put in all new seals. I was consuming fuel and oil with no smoke or leak. Before changing seals I had changed the intake air sensor...$13. For 600 miles it ran beautifully. Now it does same thing. Starts, idles smooth, put it under load(manual)and about second clutching I get power loss...sounds like it it suffocating or staving for gas. Backfires thru intake after quarter mile driving. Plugs, MAP, IAC, TPS, ATS, FUEL PUMP PLUG WIRES, FUEL CAP, INTAKE GASKET SET. No truck to use for work. I am a carpenter. NOT a mechanic. No one in this entire town of 27,000 people can give me an answer that won't cost me $250 just to look at it. I don't need to pay a mechanic to tell me something is malfunctioning. I need an answer to the problem. Short of pulling the distributor...I have done everything possible. The temp sensor on intake is the clue. It fixed it for 600 miles. It was caked and lacquered over with carbonized oil. Thus, not giving info to fuel system. It was stuck at 34° temp. The new one was nice...for 600 miles. Come on guys. Which guru has the answer?

8 months ago you probably have it long fixed by now. I had a problem with my 98 Dodge Ram 5.2. I had a major loss of power it felt like I was towing a big trailer everywhere I went. It turns out my catalytic converter broke inside turn sideways and was completely blocking the path of the exhaust. It was reading as a misfire but I ended up with over 10 psi before the cat. Just go get the cat checked it won't cost you anything at a muffler shop. Mine is fixed now and runs perfect

I had one bogging so bad it would die sitting at lights. Mine was a broken crankshaft pos sensor about 20$ on ebay. Trust me i tried all the other things iac map sens plugs cap etc.

2001 dodge ram 1500 v8 360 does anyone know y it's having a missing issue I changed out all kinds of sensors and it's still doing it can't seem to find the problem

i have 97 dodge 360 runs great but is dumping to much fuel and acts like it floods it out when i start it and has no power pulling hills i had a 14ft stock trailer with 1 horse and it killed the truck on any incline and is sluggish there are no misses back fires nothing just boggs i took cat off ( was clogged completly to where truck wouldnt even run) now i have straight piped from manifold back still dumping to much fuel and loss of power any ideas ? my check engine light is on the code reads incorrect purge flow i need answer soon as possible i need the truck for school can contact me at acantrill95@gmail.com or text 1-740-589-0326 any help is appreciated

318 and 360 Rams are notorious for having intake gasket failure. Intake leaks can cause all sorts of problems that seem like it should be something else. You may want to check that.

I totally rebuilt entire top end...cat rattles but it always has. Found no difference in how it runs with or without cat. New lines...new pump...all sensors...fuses...relays...filter is in tank...no inline filter on these models. Coil is next avenue...I know it isn't pick-up coil cuz it wouldn't run at all. You would think with a total T/B Rebuild and all new electronics that some change would come along...but no...not a lick of change. Mine is a 94 with 152,000 on it. Runs perfect in driveway. No bump or hesitation...purrs like a cat in heat. Plenum is clean...not one drop of oil leak or consumption. Clear clean plugs. New gas. I haven't worked in three months because I can't get out of the driveway. I don't need guess work...I need an answer with positive results. I am out of money so the $86.00 an hour mechanic is out of the question. Need an expert GURU that has positive results. Thanx guys.

98 dodge 1500 5.9 drives but after 2 mins acts like it ain't getting gas

1996 Dodge RAM 2500 v10 100,000 miles feels like its missing when driving at steady speeds. As soon as I give it more gas, it goes away. It only happens in OD. Like the gear is way too low for it. Any ideas?

Clogged headers

2002 Dodge 4-wheel drive the engine starts but idles real high then I put it in gear and idles real rough I accelerate and can't get it to go no faster than 20 miles an hour the Cadillac converter has been removed

Idle air control valve

ok i have a 97 doge ram 1500 with the 318 in it it was running fine then all the sudden it acts like it has now power i changed the plugs and wired as they was bad but still acts like it has now power i just got the truck so not sure what all to check i dont have alot of money to put into it

Mine is a 2001 and is doing same thing, I primed the fuel rail once and it fixed it but 2 days later it did it again and has got worse I'll check the items yell listed thanks for the info

I have a 99 dodge Ram 1500 5.9 it has no power till 2500 RMP then it starts building power going up hills a 4cycl. can bet my dodge I have replaced Fuel pump, Fuel Filter, Cat,TP Sensor,IAC Senor, Coil, Spark Plugs, Wires, MAP Sensor Injectors Top Gaskets All Redone Crank Senor,Had both Solenoids replace in tranny,water pump and just had the whole motor replaced and it still has no power under acceleration till 2500 RMP any help Would Be Nice Have To Much Money In it already and don't know where to go I have been told that it could be the computer going because once in a while going down road my air bag light will kick on the only things that I can think of it being is the Computer or Wiring. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

Just bought a used puter for 94 2500 5.9 Magnum with manual tranny. I have changed or replaced EVERYTHING. Now, today I got white and blue smoke with excessive water flowing out of tail pipe. It stops after it warms up. However, I now found to able cause to that. Velvetune cover not leaking, but black oil residue around first port exhaust manifold at second cylinder. Cracked head? Maybe. Explains my oil loss and plug fouling on cylinders 2&4. Now I KNOW MY CAT IS RUINED. Backfiring occasionally...But not since new brain installed. Water temp staying about 40°cooler than normal. But no significant water loss. Battery also went t*ts up. So...A new head...Gaskets and dammit all! Sucking hissing sound is also annoying. 151874 miles. Engine runs and idles perfectly, until I travel but don't think highway driving will be possible. Last two thousand miles has been a nightmare. No codes whatsoever. Who knows...It may be a Ford or Chevy conspiracy. Good luck all and send me your feedback.

T DOG , south west FL. 2002 5.2 Ram Van, 234.700 miles no rebuild. only replaced A/C pump.and alt. recently started to skip and stutter after driving 5 miles. seemed like a fuel problem so I pressure tested at rail. 50 was the number running and static cold. not that checked the crank sensor and replaced it no change sat for a day and came back and pulled the crank sensor reset it and it seem to run very good drove about 10 miles and nothing. hum, going to go for a long trip will get back to this site TBA

Check your computer dodges are good for having bad computer

Patrick, check the plenum at the base of the intake manifold. I have a 96 dodge ram 1500 5.2 gas. Mine was leaking sucking oil in from the engine compartment. Look down the throttle body into the intake and see if you see puddled oil on top of the plenum base. This is a design defect that can only be permanently fixed by replacing with an aluminum plenum and new gasket.

my 1997 dodge ram had problem that seemed to bog when pushing gas pedal going down highway. Turns out the cruise control unit is located under the battery box and was completely eaten up from previous owner cleaning battery with baking soda and water. residue when down below battery box. This caused vacuum leaks that I had to plug. No longer has cruise but don't have bogging or delay anymore.

360 heads are bad about cracking check and see if yours are cracked between intake and exhaust. The new alumium after market heads do not have this problem and run cooler

ok I have a 99 dodge ram 5.9 2wd ext cab. built top end (no Plentum) its my baby recently I had some hard starting issues changed plugs wires to ac delco still same issue. ran codes kelp getting a misfire on 6 & 8 plugs pissed me off. checked o2 sensor of course showed signs of clogged cat changed it no cats x pipe and Borla xr1 exhaust ran better but still hard starting issue. looked at my coil bingo. changed the msd coil to a ac delco starts just fine gave it more power in fact if your having hard starting you can use carp cleaner around your gaskets to be sure if it idols up when checking you have a gasket leak. but make sure you check your ignition coil and cats that will be a huge reason for loss of power. Note. A Cattilicconverter will not (Eventually) unclog itself to the dumbass up their lol.

Got 97 Dodge ram with the 318 it acts like it has a misfire when it's cold and you can't get it over 30 mph, but once it hits 200 degrees it drives and acts perfect for the rest of the day. Any ideas what this can be????

Are there metal shards on your oil if so the bottom needs rebuilt might be cheaper to replace the motor though

I have a 2003 dodge diesel, when I turn it on, it starts shaking real bad. And now when I put it on drive, it take a lot throttle to get it going, then it kicks real bad... is it transmission??? Pls help me

Injector bad pal

To everyone having these issues with your Rams I had an 01 Ram 1500 2 wheel drive I now have a 99 4 wheel drive 5 speed I rebuilt the motor in my 2 wheel drive because it blew two Pistons during an overheating issue to make a long story short here is my list of repairs and replacements....... Cleaned the oil pan and the oil screen, soaked the heads in alcohol (extremely dirty), cleaned the intake and throttle body...... Replaced the rod bearings, the Piston tops with V6 tops ( yes they work in a 318 with better compression), the head gaskets, intake gaskets, oil pan gasket, serpentine belt, and new spark plugs I promise you that truck is never ran so good in its life I never thought I was losing power until I rebuilt the motor and it screamed running down the road

I have that same, no power, minor detonation, after the 2001/5.9 had been driven a little, then stopped for awhile. Out of desperation I changed out the fuel pump. Ran better for a few days, then right back to the original, no power issue. I also had a complete tune up. Truck has 155,000 miles. Once I go through the no power cycle, It appears to run OK. If I stomp on the gas, it takes off OK. It's just that period after it's been driven a short time, then parked. Ideas?

What make dodge ram 1998 it run good but if you mass the gas it cut off

a 1998 Dodge Ram it run good but if you messed the pedal to the floor in a cuts off it still run but what makes it don't go over 5 miles per hour

I have a 96 ram,318,starts and runs smooth till it warms up,then starts popin and minor backfire sounds,random no pattern to the sound,give it gas it will smooth out but wants to stall when you let off the peddle ?

hey card hacker,do you just need all of our bank acc # and routing info ? at least learn to speak/type English before you try running scams !

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500, have had both throttle loss and shutting off at any given time. The shutting down was cured by replacing the ignition switch, and the loss of power was cured by replacing the APP sensor. Both are easy to do, on the APP sensor you may need a wiring diagram as my original sensor had a flat six connection and the flat six is no longer made, replaced it with a stacked three.

So have any of you with skipping problems done a proper diagnoses on your truck. It's a real simple process. It's the same for almost all gasoline engines. The first thing you need to do is pull a plug and look at. Really you should pull and number all the plugs and number your wires. Then when you look at the plugs you should be able to tell where to start looking. If you have 7 nice burning plugs and one that is all carboned up you know what one is skipping. If they are all carboned up you know your getting to much fuel for the amount of spark you got. So you probibly should start looking at the engine eletrical system.plugs ,wires ,cap ,rotor, coil.ext.if your plugs are Burt with a light brown and clean as hell then your not getting enough fuel. And if you can't tell still do a compression test. You should have somewhere between 85and 175 psi in all cylinders and all cylinders should be within 5 psi of one anouther. And if all that is good and you still don't know what the problem is get a shop manual and a multi meater and start testing your sencors. The cats do get clogged and I've found no problem with just hollowing them out and putting them back on. The fuel pumps go bad and loose pressure after the get warm and make them loose power. This happens from running them empty and no fuel to lube the pump. But a fuel pressure test when engine is at temp will tell you that. If you want to work on your own trucks then stop and think about the fundimentals of the auto mechanic trade. A engen is fundimentaly the same as it was when first put into production. They have just added extra components. But a engine needs air , fuel , power , compression , and exhost to run if it is lacking any of these things it won't run properly. So inorder to fix a engine you must first find out what it is lacking or getting to much of then you go from there. I don't believe in replacing parts untill I get lucky and get the rite one. I also think that in my experience buying some of the tools required to properly diagnoses a vehicle is much less expensive than throwing away parts that are working properly to out new ones on. When someone tells me they changed all kinds of parts before they finally fixed there ride and that makes it a better auto I just laff. It does not make it worth a cent more. It just makes them look foolish. And from the looks of the posts if some of you had of just spent a little time with a book and a meter you would have spent a lot less money to still have a broken truck. Sorry about the bad spelling and I'm not trying to insault any one. Just the opposite I'm trying to inspire you to realize just how simple it can be to figure out and repair your own ride. Good luck everyone I hope I helped in some sort of way.

So have any of you with skipping problems done a proper diagnoses on your truck. It's a real simple process. It's the same for almost all gasoline engines. The first thing you need to do is pull a plug and look at. Really you should pull and number all the plugs and number your wires. Then when you look at the plugs you should be able to tell where to start looking. If you have 7 nice burning plugs and one that is all carboned up you know what one is skipping. If they are all carboned up you know your getting to much fuel for the amount of spark you got. So you probibly should start looking at the engine eletrical system.plugs ,wires ,cap ,rotor, coil.ext.if your plugs are Burt with a light brown and clean as hell then your not getting enough fuel. And if you can't tell still do a compression test. You should have somewhere between 85and 175 psi in all cylinders and all cylinders should be within 5 psi of one anouther. And if all that is good and you still don't know what the problem is get a shop manual and a multi meater and start testing your sencors. The cats do get clogged and I've found no problem with just hollowing them out and putting them back on. The fuel pumps go bad and loose pressure after the get warm and make them loose power. This happens from running them empty and no fuel to lube the pump. But a fuel pressure test when engine is at temp will tell you that. I've had the 318 burn avalve at 65k before and every 360 has bad valve seals Ifou want to work on your own trucks then stop and think about the fundimentals of the auto mechanic trade. A engen is fundimentaly the same as it was when first put into production. They have just added extra components. But a engine needs air , fuel , power , compression , and exhost to run if it is lacking any of these things it won't run properly. So inorder to fix a engine you must first find out what it is lacking or getting to much of then you go from there. I don't believe in replacing parts untill I get lucky and get the rite one. I also think that in my experience buying some of the tools required to properly diagnoses a vehicle is much less expensive than throwing away parts that are working properly to out new ones on. When someone tells me they changed all kinds of parts before they finally fixed there ride and that makes it a better auto I just laff. It does not make it worth a cent more. It just makes them look foolish. And from the looks of the posts if some of you had of just spent a little time with a book and a meter you would have spent a lot less money to still have a broken truck. Sorry about the bad spelling and I'm not trying to insault any one. Just the opposite I'm trying to inspire you to realize just how simple it can be to figure out and repair your own ride. Good luck everyone I hope I helped in some sort of way.

Many posts are a bad wire to upstream O2 sensor. Buy a good sensor, check wires. If bucking, falling off, running like crap once the engine gets hot, it’s the O2. Test it by. Once engine starts to run rough, unplug. Black smoke out exhaust or lots of gas consumption, tens to be O2. But make sure to check wires. The upstream O2 tells the ECM to run lean or rich. Then check the MAP sensor. In combination with the Intake Plenum, these two relay vacuum to ECM. Then check Fuel Pump. Check pressure at idle, RPMs and when hot. Below 45 PSI, it’s having issues if it drops. The wires to the O2 sensor will drive you nuts if there are breaks. If it starts, the cam and crank sensor are working. If you added any HP, the fuel pumps are good, but don’t play nice over 350-375 hp. The intake sensor will code, the IAC won’t idle correctly and the TPS will run a lean signal in WOT. 99% it’s the O2. A bad MAP it won’t idle and dies. A no start is the cam or Crank sensor.

I have a 01 dodge and mine won’t go over 45 to 50 and I replace the fule pump

Loss of power with good idle is a clogged/clogging catalytic converter. DO NOT RELY ON A SCANNER FOR HELP HERE, A LOT OF "FALSE" CODES ARE GENERATED WITH THIS ISSUE. Loss of power with a rough idle may be many things. (Fuel, Ignition, sensor or gasket.) A quick OBD2 scan will help guide you here... Hope this helps those searching here...

Hey guys I got a 2000,318, extended cab,2wd, and it turns on fine but once I step on it around 2100rpm it cuts out nasty and then I let off the gas and it’s fine had a tune up about 2 months ago, been seeing that it could b a clogged cat or an o2 sensor but it only happens wen I floor it there’s no certain speed, if I’m going 35mph and floor it and it drops a gear it will start cutting out bad, one time I had my ac on 3 and hit about 70 on the highway and then floored it and the whole truck started shaking so I put it in neutral and let the truck roll itself to 50mph and then I turned off the ac and the truck kept going like if nothing happened, any ideas? Snapchat is: tonyfades666 And my number is (915)-331-2516, plz only text and say ur from here plz I really want to fix my truck but don’t have a lot of money to throw at it, any idea helps

Guys try your cam shaft sensor or cam shaft postiin ive read on google that that can cause problem but i see i have alot more to check and try cause i have the same problem i alread change the cam shaft sensor

Ok guys I have experience with this it was crank sensor as soon as it got the least bit warm stall run bad rich conditions code its cheap try it