My 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 sport shut off on me while I was driving and not it won't even crank. Replaced the crankshaft sensor, speed sensor, torque converter, IAC sensor, and the starter.

Also I forgot to mention the only light on the dash that stays on when I try and start it is the "check gauges" light but as I said all of my fluids are full.

Check all your fuse very close I had the same thing happen to me sounds like A bad Connection start the truck with all electrical off disconnect the battery if it dies you have A bad alternator if it still run it is something else make sure all connection on battery are tight and it is grounded Good luck

Noooo... never disconnect the battery with engine running. It can cause at multitude of problems on top of what is already faulty ...that is NOT the way to test an alternator

My vehicle won't start. I was thinking that too but vehicle won't start .

I wasnt going to disconnect the battery I was just going to take it out and have advance or auto zone test it with their machine

When I do try to start my truck the lights on dash dimmer and my headlights turn off every time I crank it.

Anyone else have any other suggestions besides the alternator

If it was my alternator my would still start right. Someone please answer me

You replaced the torque converter? On the flex plate/flywheel? Or are you confusing that with some other part? You have to take transmission out to do that, and has absolutely nothing to do with a no-start condition. I only now noticed that in your post. Anyway, at this point what I would do is pull out all spark plugs and see if it turns over. If it does, it may be hydro-locked, especially if coolant blows out of one or more cylinders when you crank it over. That means head gasket. I don't know if it has a timing belt or chain. But it could have jumped time.

And yes, if the alternator is bad but battery good it would start

So then it's not my alternator any other suggestions

I can't say for 100% sure but I highly doubt it. ow I am thinking battery cables, and ground from battery to block. Try using a jumper cable and put one end on the -Neg black post and the other to a good ground on the frame or chassis. See what happens. And leave that on, and run another jumper cable directly from battery to starter, where the big red cable goes.. BE CAREFUL IF IT CATCHES YOU CAN RUN OVER YOURSELF. Not so dangerous if automatic or manual in neutral, just be careful. That is assuming the battery is good, put it on a charger overnight first. If you don't have a battery charger, It is a good investment to make for this and future, you don't need a high powered 30 amp charger., a small 10 amp will do and not that expensive. Even leave charger attached while doing this. But you are right that the battery needs to be load tested, how old is it? When you jump with key on run from Red+ post to starter, with aux. ground and it still does not crank over, you may have gotten a bad starter from box. It happens.

Furthermore, I don't think it's the starter safety switch, that prevents starting when not in Park or neutral. That just does not fit in this scenario. Nor the starter solenoid. When the lights dim it is drawing a ton of power and trying to start. Dude, I am throwing out everything I can think of.

I know ford nut and I appreciate it but would that have caused it to just shut off when I was driving

Now, if you can someway get it to crank, but will still not start, buy some starting fluid and spray a 3 - 4 seconds burst in to throttle body. Disconnect air filter and spray directly in to TB. If it runs for a few seconds and dies, it's fuel starvation. I re-read you OP and now I remember it quit on you on the road

We were posting at same time. That there is a very good question that I am pondering. You lost either fuel or spark. Let's back up a bit, what engine is it? V6 3.9.... V8 5.2.. or something else? Does it have a distributor or coil packs? Do you know how to check fuel pressure?

It's a 5.2l

Yeah the oil is full

Jim what do you mean turn it by hand as in trying to turn the crankshaft pulley

The torque converter for the starter to engage because the teeth broke off of it a couple of months ago.

It had a distributor

Has a distributor

Here is a little bit more info my mother in law just decided to try and jump it for the heck of it and now my fuel gauge keeps saying I have a three quarters of a tank when I only have three eighths or at least that is what it said when it died and my overdrive off light is on and my check gauges light goes off.

Also last week my oil cap blew off

That's what I thought

What do you mean a "dead" miss. I don't have any of the other signs of a blown head gasket. I don't gave milky oil, no dose soundING engine nothing.

A miss as in missing in shifting a miss in starting, a misfire. I am sorry I do a lot of things about cars but have never heard that term before I'm just trying to understand what you mean by a constant miss please give a little more detail or a better explanation.

Oh ok now I know what you are talking about I did on cylinder 7 a couple months ago but not that I know of now

My 2¢ is that pressure in the crankcase enough to blow the filler cap off, and the PCV can't draw enough to relieve it is just what Jim says, on the compression stroke the valves are closed and the compression will go in to crankcase, if the gasket is blown out in a certain place, between cylinder and crankcase, it will pressurize in no time

No I haven't tried turning the crankshaft by hand yet I left my kets in my wife's car when she picked me up. So if it does turn by hand what are you thinking it might? And if it doesn't turn by hand what do you think it may be?

The cylinder 7 misfire I do not know what the cause it was there for about a week and then it just disappeared one day when I was driving

Alright so I just took all of my spark plugs out and the crankshaft turns but not completely

Dang it thank you not looking forward to tearing it apart