Mazda 3 brake pressure loss when driving
I'm having a brake problem with my 2006 Mazda 3. When applying the brakes in normal driving
conditions, the pedal and brakes responds as it should, but then start to lose pressure and the vehicle
loses it's braking power and on release of the pedal a quiet howling whistle noise is made. When the
car is turned off, no pressure is lost. My mechanic has replaced both the Master cylinder and booster
and the O- ring seals, and when first driven the brakes operate like brand new. The next day the
vehicle reverts back to the same problem of losing pressure. My mechanic has heard of a few
problems exactly the same but no one knows how the problem starts or can be fixed, can anyone
help???
you should take a look of the brake boost ,that kind of problem could occur when the brake boost have problems
The booster has been replaced and nothing has changed.
maybe it can be a poor quality brake fluid , because sometimes in the dealer ,the use to put a Dot 4 brake fluid and sometime is not enought for a correct function of the car.
are there any places where brake fluid is leaking out? it sounds like one of your calipers might be faulty
Did you ever find a solution? I'm having the same problem with my 2006 mazda 3!
it sounds like an issue with the vaccume to the booster. check all of the boosters vaccume lines.
check ur abs module
Did you get a fix for problem, as I have same Problem and done same to fix?
I have a 2006 mazda 3 an am having the same pro lem did you find the cause?
it could not possibly be the booster. if the booster was bad your pedal would be rock hard. it is a bypass at the abs pump/motor.
I just bought this car, 3 year warranty and I am having the same problem. The breaks are squishy. Replaced the master cylinder, still squishy. Having the mechanic look at it again since it is under warranty. What parts should I suggest, lets figure this out!
My 2008 Mazda 3 also started having this problem, and my mechanic does not know what to do. Did anyone find a solution?
Same problem with my 2009 Mazda axella aka 3. It's seems to be a faulty valve or valves in the ABS system. My advice is " don't ever buy a Mazda " Old saying amongst mechanics was don't ever buy a Japanese car with an M starting it's name, seems to be true. Mazda 3 s have too many on going problems.
At first the quiet howling noise had me puzzled, but it makes sense. It is only air in the system that can possibly make such a noise - going through a very narrow opening. The loss of pressure also points to air in the braking system somewhere. Brake fluid is used for one quality only. It is very near to 100% non-compressible. Air is compressible so that you can inflate your tyres to the correct pressure. You have an air lock in your system that gets moved around as you use the brakes. Before you do this, test the brakes. If you feel ANY, even very slight, squishiness BEFORE the loss of pressure, you have an air lock You need to follow the workshop manual's instructions to the letter when you bleed the brake system. A VW model once had to be perfectly level or you would not succeed to bleed that system correctly. You also had to follow a specific sequence in which wheel was bled first. Find out what the sequence is to bleed the Mazda's system. If you then find it does not work, try different sequences, but you have to remove ALL the air in the system. Air will ALWAYS move up in the system, even in brake fluid. So, most likely start at the back wheels and the lowest point in the car. Work from point to point and be very particular to make sure you do not skip any connections. When you are done, you will find the brake pedal reacting rock hard to your foot. It must do so, or start over. . Be patient when you troubleshoot this. No mac will do this for you for any money. Then, having made friends with your car, go, enjoy your Mazda 3. My 1978 Mazda 323 taught me this. Hauled melamine kitchens with it and dropped in an E5 motor to get 196 kph out of it. The Beemers swore at me. My next car is a Mazda 3.
they have problems with the abs hydraulic control unit or HCU very common replace it and you will have normal brake operation again. I also recommend a vacuum bleed of brake system to eliminate any air in system
I believe Tinkerbell is in to something. I have a 2008 Mazda 3 and this problem has happened twice while going around a turn quickly while braking and wheel hopped because of uneven payment. It definitely has something to do with ABS and vacuum.
I have repaired many with the HCU the hydraulic part of ABS unit. I have been ASE Master Tech for 25 plus years. You can find good used ones online for $50.00-$100.00 new they are $600-$700
Photo below you don’t have to use the module part use existing just change hydraulic part and bleed
