2007 Ford F-150 fuel pump not running

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/5098j-ford-f-150-xlt-fuel-pump-2007-ford-xlt-wont-work.html

The inertia fuel cut off switch/Fuel pump shut off switch located Behind the right front passenger kick panel, to the left of the fuse box remove access panel. Owners manual says it this way. The fuel pump shut off switch (inertia switch) is in the front passenger foot well, behind the kick panel access cover, to the left of the fuse panel.

Fuse F9 20amp (fuel pump) location central junction box interior fuse panel.

Copy & paste URL to new browser window. If you know how to select the chart (highlight it) and copy or save to your down loads then select to view it with a picture viewer that can zoom in to see the details do so. Here it is below (URL).

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/1h7gi-fuse-panel-located-2007-f150.html

Thank you for the assistance enginecreator, I appreciate it. I did check the inertia switch. I see that I failed to point that out when I originally posted, but thanks for the suggestion. I also checked the 20a pump fuse both visually as well as with a test light and it appears to be alright. I am going to go to the URL that you suggested and check it out. I have been searching on this computer all day to try and find some info and I finally gave up and asked here. Thanks again, I hope that I can find the issue at that site.

Do you know of anything else that might be susceptible to just sitting as far as electronics? Has anyone had a problem with a PCM as a result of sitting for a long period of time? This truck ran like a champ before the manifold cracked, so I am figuring that the problem is that it has been sitting for so long.

Fuel systems are notorious for gumming up after sitting for a long time.

I would confirm there is not or is fuel pressure. May have pressure and the injectors are not opening.

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/70ygc-ford-f150-pickup-4x4-2007-f150-4x4-5-4-auto.html

The spec is with the key on and engine off pressure should be between 35 - 45 PSI. You will need to adapt a fuel pressure gauge in line with the fuel rail as if its part of it and it can still run and build pressure without leaking. I will see if there is a site or video on how to do this.

Here it is also this is other test so you can also check the part 1 and part 2 pages by clicking on those tabs at top of instructions to see those other testing procedures in blue writing are links to other test/instructions some of those are toward the bottom of page.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.2L/how-to-test-the-fuel-pump-2

You may have a short somewhere, Mice like to eat wires, well use for bedding.

And the relay too in the fuse panel shown in the chart on one of those urls above need tested or replaced.

If no fuel after checking for fuel pressure and all the other items listed above checked and tested good then the only thing else is the computer. If there is fuel pressure but injectors do not open then that needs addressed with other test but confirm if no fuel pressure first.

Thanks again for all of the information & the help Enginecreator. I appreciate it. There is no fuel,the filter is empty and the pump is not running at all. I am heading out to get back to it for a while today. I read and downloaded the info you sent yesterday and I am putting some of that to use today. I thought about the mice issue, which is why I took the interior threshold panels out and the covers under the cab for the wire harness and went through wires yesterday. They are in really good shape, have not found a defect yet. That is not to say that there is not one and I may very well run across a mouse issue, but not as of yet. Will be using testing methods for the relay in the fuse box though. I am hoping that the issue is in that area and not in or around the tank. Will check the other links you sent. Again, thanks. Will also update when I figure it out.

You are welcome.

Well, still have not figured it out Enginecreator, but there is a reason for that. I have some pretty major health issues that lay me up from time to time, and I have not been able to mess with the truck for the last few weeks. Sorry that it took this long to update the situation. I went over all of the data that you supplied (great stuff by the way), and here is where I ended up. I am getting 12.1 volts to the pump with key on. No pump drive. The old pump as well as the new pump do drive when hooked directly to a battery. The old pump was replaced because the strainer is completely blocked and I was concerned with just replacing the strainer not really knowing what the pump and housing looked like. When the pump is connected to the pig tail, nothing. With jumper wires in the pigtail there is 12.1 volts there key on. With jumper wires to the pump from the pigtail, nothing. With jumper wires to the battery and then to the pump it runs. I am thinking that the ground wire for the FPDM may be compromised. That is the only place that I can see that it might not be providing enough power to turn the pump. Or at the very least draining power under load. The rest of the wiring seems to check out on the pump end. That is my project tomorrow. Thanks again and I will check in if I find the issue so that others that might be experiencing this same thing might find it faster.

Considering all relays, grounds, wire harness ect. are good. The control module (PCM) is in control of the pump running as with all other functions of the Auto. There is a issue with PCM or the control parameters for the PCM to run the pump. Sensors, the modules, I would look for a test you can do on the PCM and see if itis trying to send the signal to run pump. There may be some wire jumping on the pins that will show this, I do not have the test procedures for it in front of me but there should be a way to test this. If the PCM is not sending signal or receiving the signal to in turn send the signal to pump then this will tell you if its before PCM or at PCM or after PCM.

Yep, after today I think that I have exhausted all other options. I need to send the PCM out to be tested. I suspect that it is most likely the problem.

Best to know for sure.

I know this is about a year old, but did you check the Fuel Pump Driver under the spare tire, they wear out pretty quick, aluminium housing bolted to the steel frame and exposed to the weather...dumb idea....but I'd check that and make sure it's not ate up and needing replaced.

Hey I no it's been some time but check the orange grown wire located under the truck directly below driver seat there is a cover to remove but test that jump it to body I bet u get great resolts